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Everything posted by d_a_n1979

  1. d_a_n1979

    mashed potatoes

    Harper Auto's, Ellesmere Port - that's where he works (well; was last time I saw him)
  2. d_a_n1979

    Bmw fitter required

    Welcome to the forums This is in the wrong section really. Please either state which BMW 5 series car it is you have and/or amend your profile show it shows your car and location here: <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< On the back of that; I'll move your thread to the relevant 5 series tech section, further down the homepage It'll get better coverage and answers that way
  3. d_a_n1979

    Oil Advice

    Opie Oils are a big Fuchs reseller; have a look on their website IMO; as long as the oil meets BMW LL04 specs and it's the grade you want to run, use it... I've used ECPs TripleQX 5W30 and 5W40 for years now alongside the Mann filters ECP run. I've never had any issues and for the prices you can get it at; it's worth doing 2-3 changes a year to keep it uber fresh etc Oil, like tyres and like brakes, can be a very personal choice and there can be huge arguments over it etc But, as said, if it meets LL04 specs; it'll be absolutely fine!
  4. d_a_n1979

    e39 touring to coil springs

    This is why personally, I'd stick with the bags, as that's exactly what the cars meant to do. When we go camping, or up up to Dunkeld, or down to Anglesey etc; the cars always laden, so it's great to have the SLS working and it makes for a great ride and I've no issues with the handling either. The Eibach springs have made a difference to the stance and handling on my touring and now, for me, it sits perfectly Plus when I do tip runs too etc; the SLS is ideal for that as the boot can be fairly loaded! IMO if you use the touring and it's laden; then the SLS is hard to beat and best left fitted... But, horses for courses etc; each to their own
  5. d_a_n1979

    Help please

    Broken front ARB (anti roll bar) that pal; needs replacing ASAP You can either go for a used one, or buy new. Ask BMW Cotswolds on this forum (towards the top in 'sponsors section') and see what price they quote you for a new one. May as well replace the ARB bushes and drop links too whilst it's all coming off Never seen that before; must have been very corroded in a particular area One here, for example, on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-15-BMW-5-SERIES-M-SPORT-3-0-DIESEL-STABILIZER-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-6791925-01/361535236752?epid=12008793933&amp;hash=item542d2dea90:g:L88AAOSwhDdXEPkL
  6. d_a_n1979

    E39 space saver wheels.

    Stick with the turbine. It'll do the same job when necessary, no point in spending more £££ unless you really want to and secondly; I'm not sure if a space saver was sorted for the E39 due to the odd-one-out centre bore. Could be wrong though
  7. d_a_n1979

    E39 528i Sluggish and NOT Kicking Down

    Buy via Cotswold BMW who are on these forums; with sensors like this, you need to stick with OEM and not aftermarket. Same with crank/MAF etc. Ask on their section of this forum or give them a call; their numbers in there also However, before you buy, have you had the codes read and is it the cam sensor that's causing issues, or are you buying it to see if that makes a difference?
  8. d_a_n1979

    Dead battery; struggling to access X reg E39

    How come you're not able to open the passenger door; does your key not turn in the lock properly? It could be stuck/seized; so give it a good douse with WD40 using the straw attachment and work it gently with the key. That should then open the car for you You can, if you've access to a trolley jack and stands, get power to the car from underneath and you can also open the bonnet via other means too, but not keen on having that info on an open forum. However, if you Google this, you may find the suggestions easy enough Personally, I'd use the key in thr drivers door lock first; turn it 90º to your right, that should unlock the door, once you've done the above with WD etc
  9. d_a_n1979

    lens clean

    Ideally yes, but if you wash your car regularly, then it takes 5mins to put some polish/wax on them and that stops them from clouding over again
  10. d_a_n1979

    Tyre Load Rating

    Thank you; you're very welcome...
  11. d_a_n1979

    lens clean

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-39073-Restoration-Discoloured-Headlights/dp/B0078IHJ1K/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3GVG3ITBKYU17&keywords=3m+headlight+restoration+kit&qid=1566288462&s=gateway&sprefix=3m+headlight%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-5 https://www.google.com/search?q=bmw+e39+headlight+polishing+site:forum.bmw5.co.uk&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB846GB846&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjW-c2j_5DkAhWBbVAKHVzYDSsQrQIoBDAJegQIBBAN&biw=2560&bih=1219 Lots of info in the bottom link; top link is to the tried and tested 3M kit that simply uses your cordless drill etc If you really want to go to town on them; then it's a case of using a series of wet n dry sandpaper in finer and finer grades and then polishing the headlight back up and then sealing. By hand... Others have used toothpaste, same with the likes of Meguiars PlastX polish etc: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-PlastX-Headlight-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B007UQR15Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=plastic+x+polish&qid=1566288609&s=gateway&sr=8-4 Personally I'd go for the 3M kit, do two passes following their instructions and they should come up looking very well indeed
  12. d_a_n1979

    E39 space saver wheels.

    Just have a 16" Style 33 'Turbine' or 17" Style 66 in the spare wheel well; that's what it was designed to hold
  13. d_a_n1979

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    I sorted it pal, warmed up with a hair dryer and then peeled the badge off carefully. Removed the remaining residue with Autoglym Tar Remover and then used a bit of compound and resin polish to bring the area up to condition 30 mins of a job Keith
  14. d_a_n1979

    Tyre Load Rating

    A lot of folk remove them as they sort a space saver or run with a tyre inflator/puncture repair kit and also it can save a lot of £££ - To some folk, that's more important. Still being able to use decent tyres, but without the RFT premium etc
  15. I've got these that are now surplus Genuine BMW, sourced from BMW Cotswolds April/May time and fitted then, but I've now fitted Eibach pro-kit springs, so these are sat in the garage. No damage, no issues and are plug n play; ideal if you want to refresh your OEM suspension or if you're on an SE and want to lower FRONTS only as they're off a touring, but a big saving over new from BMW Cotswolds £110 delivered or £95 cash on collection
  16. d_a_n1979

    E39 528i Sluggish and NOT Kicking Down

    As already mentioned; unplug the MAF and see how it runs. Also; check the air intake boots from the MAF to the throttle body and see if there are any cracks/splits. If it's taking air in after the MAF it'll be running lean and it won't like that Definitely get the codes read; the plug is under the bonnet on your car, so you'll need a decent indy garage that's got a good code reader ideally, or INPA on a laptop and the necessary cables (ask on here and see if anyone is local to you)! Wondering if this could be cam/crank sensor related also?
  17. d_a_n1979

    Tyre Load Rating

    No one has mentioned anything about insurance whether to inform them or not; this is simply a thread asking re tyre ratings If you want to start another tyre/RFT or non-RFT/insurance argument thread; start one of your own, don't take someone else's thread down with you please
  18. d_a_n1979

    Tyre Load Rating

    Why not? LOTS of folk move from RFT to non RFTs on their BMWs due to it offering a nicer ride and better prices...
  19. d_a_n1979

    Tyre Load Rating

    Fully agree; to sound like a broken record, check Camskill and Tyreleader for their prices, if they stock them that is, before going to the usual suspects of National Tyres/ATS/Blackcircles/MyTyres etc The only 'downside' to Camskill/Tyreleader is that you then need to get the tyres fitted; but their prices usually come in much lower and spending £10-£15 a corner for fitting on top still leaves you with money in your back pocket
  20. d_a_n1979

    Style 66s

    Straight x4 set ideally; but happy with 2 or 3 as well (I've got a single 17x8 in the garage already) and can soon source another single etc No tyres wanted/needed as these will be for winter wheels. I don't want the faff of removing tyres etc Happy to collect if local enough; if not I'll pay for a courier etc Sensible prices please
  21. d_a_n1979

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Washed - snowfoamed using Autoglym Polar Blast; wheels cleaned using Autoglym Magma and Chemical Guys long wheel brush, rinsed, lambswool mitt washed using Dodojuice Car Shampoo, rinsed, Chemical Guys towel dried, black plastics and roof rails treated with G4 Techniq and tyres treated with Chemical Guys tyre gel Car put back up the drive as it's blowing a hoolie here and it's dusty as hell already
  22. d_a_n1979

    Winter wheels/tyres

    Might be worth checking aftermarket wheel companies to see if they have a set of alloys that match what you need; we all know OEM BMW alloys will be extortionate, unless you want/need to keep them BMW Wheelbase, Rimstyle, BMAutosport are the ones that spring to mind initially Obviously you need to ensure they'll clear your calipers and yes, make sure they're 5x112 PCD too As for tyres; Camskill and Tyreleader generally offer the best prices, you just need to get them fitted
  23. d_a_n1979

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Nearly nicely run in then
  24. d_a_n1979

    E39 530i Sport Touring - Invest or Move on??

    None of my E39s have used any oil... I might be lucky or a change in oil, from 0 or 5W30 to 5W40 etc