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d_a_n1979

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Posts posted by d_a_n1979


  1. 4 minutes ago, CountryGents said:

    Shame those links are not working, id like to change them this week. Anyone else know a decent link to get these?

     

    Which arms are you looking to change?

     

    Meyle HD or Lemforder are more than adequate; Moog are very good too and come with a 2 year warranty minimum!

     

    Find your part numbers via RealOEM and search for the parts on eBay; try and source via BMWmotormec or C3BMW

     

    For Moog; either eBay or try your local motorfactors


  2. 5 minutes ago, 5ADay said:

    Ah bugger, I hope your wrong about the dust with EBC red stuff ceramic pads,  one of the main reasons for picking them was due to the advertised very low brake dust with them. 

     Supposedly the ceramic particles make a finer dust that is lighter in colour and much finer, which also doesn't stick to your wheels like the metallic pads or organic ones do.

     Not sure what the wheels are called, the are genuine BMW BBS alloys,  an option for the E39 touring I believe.

     

    I have stainless steel braided hoses with stainless fittings on order, 2 week wait when I ordered them with the front brakes for some reason. 

     

    They are dusty; but not like cheap brake pads that tend to look like they're falling apart ;) It's mainly the grooves of the discs that make them a bit dustier; as they're keeping the face of the pad clean from deposits etc. If you're like me and always cleaning your car, then it's fine. With a good clean and decent wax, they're easy to keep clean :) 

     

    Shame re the lines; but least you've got them on order. Although 2 weeks is a fair wait!


  3. Nice to see you back @5ADay - thought you'd disappeared into the ether, or is it ester? :lol: 

     

    It's a bonny looking motor; what alloys are those, don't recognise them?

     

    I've done a full suspension overhaul and brake overhaul on my 530i touring, it's made a massive difference. I'd highly recommend HEL braided brake lines if you're doing all the brakes; they make for a much better overall brake feel. I'd also highly recommend you getting a decent alloy wheel wax and taking your alloys off and cleaning them, then applying the wax in a few stages. EBC pads are dusty and more so when used with aggressive discs; so applying the wax helps to keep them clean as they just take a good blast with the power washer and an easy wash rather than an all out intensive wash every time you wash the car, because the brake dust is baked on ;) 


  4. 11 hours ago, Loadmaster said:

    Seriously? (I don't mean that I'm suggesting it's not worthy of the offers :D)

     

    Was this just out and about?

     

    Yeah; 3 online and one in person when I was at my pals getting some work done to the car.

     

    All very serious offers too and more than what I paid ;) If there was another car of interest to me I'd have seriously considered the offers... But there aint and I've been after a touring for ages :lol: 


  5. Use a drift to open the gap in the knuckle where the bottom of the strut is and that'll ease the tension on the bolt, should hammer out then :)

     

    Replaced both top mounts and fitted new Eibach springs to my touring yesterday; this is how we did mine and there were no issues with any seized bolts etc, but then again my car has no corrosion on it, anywhere.

     

    If you need penetrating fluid, Wurth Rost Off gets my vote; so much better than WD


  6. 1 minute ago, TerryTibbs said:

    I may have some clearance issues on the rear with lowering springs, I’m running style65s with 265 rears, and yes I’ll be replacing the top mounts too, done 175k now 

     

    You'll be fine

     

    My previous 530i saloon ran D2 coilovers on 19" alloys with 275 tyres, no rubbing at all ;) 

     

    I'm running 275/35 tyres currently on my touring with 9.5" rear Style 37s and I have 5mm spacers on them too, making the offset 19 and again, no rubbing and the rear is lower than standard too


  7. 2 hours ago, Parabola said:

    New rear tyres going on today. 

     

    The suspension isn’t great. Will need sorting soon. 

     

    Anyone recommend an E39 suspension specialist in Manchester/The North West

     

    I can highly recommend Grinspeed in Leyland; he's my pal and that's where I get all my work done. However, he's usually very busy, so would need to book in advance

     

    The suspension job isn't that bad; the rears are easy and very much a DIY with basic tools and a trolley jack/axle stands. It's all very accessible etc. The fronts are more fiddly, but again doable on the drive with the right tools and spring compressors. 


  8. 26 minutes ago, TerryTibbs said:

    Cheers Dan I’ll have a look, it does have m tech 2,

     

    The Sachs sport dampers are what you need; they're what I've used to replace my Mtec 2 shocks also.

     

    If you're doing this, might be worth doing all the top mounts, drop links and maybe add Eibach Pro kit springs too ;) They don't go too low, but will make the car handle much better 8) 


  9. 37 minutes ago, TerryTibbs said:

    Has anyone replaced or had them replaced? Wondering if I’ll get correct spec units from the motor factors , mine are showing their age and I’m hoping to replace soon, is there much difference in a sport shocker to an S E ? 


    You’ll want Sachs for a like for like replacement or OEM BMW

     

    Not sure re your part numbers as it’s a diesel, but I’m sure the 525D shares the shame suspension as my 530i.

     

    If you look back a few pages on this section, you’ll see wherein asked for the part numbers when I replaced my suspension (albeit mines a touring with different rear shocks to a saloon, I think). It’s in my projects too as well.

     

    However, you need to confirm what suspension yours has first, you’ll get this info via RealOEM.

     

    And yes, there’s a big difference between SE and Sport suspension 


  10. 32 minutes ago, Ocallen said:

    It's an SE but I'm going with Bilstein shocks, Powerflex bushes, HD droplinks and Sport anti roll bars. 

     

    One of the things that puts me off coilovers is I am constantly fiddling with settings, so much so it really p*sses me off. By going with shocks and springs once fitted, I leave them alone and drive around their limitations. 

     

     

     

    Fit the coilovers; set ride height to what you want, set damping rate to what you want, get a fast road set-up done (obviously tracking & alignment too) and then leave them alone ;)

     

    Shouldn't need to be adjusted unless you're really fussy, or they haven't been set up correctly in the first place


  11. If you're cars an SE; I wouldn't use anything lower than the Pro kit; you'll kill the shocks in no time at all.

     

    If it's a Sport or on Mtec II sport suspension; then you'll be fine with the Sportline kit. Quite a few folk run these on OEM shocks or uprated Bilstein B8s with no issues etc. If you're wheels aren't spaced out, you'll be even more fine, but I do know that the fronts can rub a bit when a cars lowered, but that's usually on more aggressive alloys/tyre widths etc

     

    However, once you add up these kits together; you're spending more than decent coilovers (D2s, BCs, APs etc); so maybe look into those as well. AP are more basic, simple ride height adjustability and that's it, but D2s and BCs both have ride height and damper rebound adjustability and both are very well made/used a lot on the BMWs and have an excellent following 

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