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jake13 last won the day on July 19 2018

jake13 had the most liked content!

About jake13

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    Advanced Member

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  • Garage
    E61 535d M Sport

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  1. jake13

    Inner tie rod removal

    I used a big adjustable spanner. To avoid damaging the steering rack, you need to loosen and tighten when the rack is at it's shortest position for each side.
  2. jake13

    G32 First Service

    Ridiculous, I know.
  3. jake13

    Possibly considering one of these....

    It's their policy. No evidence of sevice history (book), no claim. Claim it off defect code 41 62 90 75 00, see technical service bulletin 41 01 07 (376) 41 01 07 (376) E61 Tailgate repairs (chafe marks)
  4. jake13

    G32 First Service

    They charged me £67.50 inc for labour. I supplied the oil filter (£14) and oil (£30; 2x4l Castrol FST 5w-30).
  5. jake13

    Possibly considering one of these....

    If you have full service history, you can get it done under the 12 year anti corrosion warranty.
  6. jake13

    G32 First Service

    They charge oil per litre, this is where they hammer you. I've supplied my own parts and oil and paid just labour.
  7. jake13

    Snapped bolt intake manifold

    When you remove the manifold, you should loosen/remove the lower nuts first then the upper bolts. And putting back, tighten the upper bolts first and then the lower nuts. On the 6 cylinder you can feel the tension on the manifold.
  8. jake13

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Best colour A08 silver grey . Tint the rear windows.
  9. jake13

    G32 First Service

    You can supply the parts (genuine) and ask for 'labour only' cost. It may work out cheaper if you got a good deal for your oil.
  10. jake13

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Removing and installing/replacing brake pads on both front disc brakes 34 11 000Removing and installing/replacing brake pads on both front disc brakes Special tools required: 34 1 080 34 1 280 34 6 320 Attention! Brake pad wear sensor: After disassembly it must be replaced (brake pad wear sensor loses its retention capability in the brake pad). Retaining pins and expanding spring: for vehicles older than 48 months it is recommended to replace the retaining spring! To prevent damage to the surface coating, do not mechanically clean the guide surfaces for the brake pads on the brake caliper mounting bracket if possible, but clean with brake cleaner BMW part number 83 19 2 154 780 and apply a thin coat of brake pad paste BMW part number 83 19 2 158 851 (3 gr.) or 83 19 2 158 852 (100 gr.). Spread brake pad paste onto the marked surfaces using a brush! Observe guideline for applying brake pad paste on brake pads and caliper carrier! Attention! European version only. In case of sport brake pads for M5/M6: Due to the increased strain on the brake discs, we recommend that you also replace the brake discs when fitting a set of brake pads It is absolutely essential to exchange the brake discs if cracked ≥ 13 mm even before the brake pad is worn Necessary preliminary work: Remove wheels. Remove brake pad wear sensor Observe safety information on raising the vehicle. Lever out retaining spring (1) in direction of arrow towards rear.Installation note: Attach retaining spring (1) first at top and bottom and then allow retaining lug (2) to engage in recess of brake caliper housing. Remove plastic plugs (1). Left: Pull out the brake pad wear sensor towards the rear from the brake pad. Release guide bolts (1) with special tool 34 1 080 . Withdraw brake calliper backwards. Installation note: Only clean guide bolts; do not grease. Check threads. Replace all guide screws which are not in perfect condition. Tightening torque 34 11 3AZ. Press back brake pads and piston with special tool 34 6 320 .Attention! When forcing piston back: Pay attention to brake fluid level in expansion tank; brake fluid that spills over will damage paintwork. Press brake pads inwards and remove. The two brake pads are seated with a spring in the piston or in the brake caliper housing and must not be mixed up. Attention! Mark any worn brake pads. In the event of one-sided brake pad wear, do not change brake pads round. Observe minimum thickness of brake pads. Clean brake pads. Do not apply grease to brake lining backplate. Note: The outer brake pads gradually need to be changed as well. The previous version (A) with retaining spring (1) is replaced by brake pads of version (B) without retaining spring! The use of pad sets of version (A) with retaining spring continues to be permissible! Check minimum brake disc thickness: Position special tool 34 1 280 at three measuring points in area (1) and measure. Compare measuring result and lowest value with setpoint value. Attention! New brake pads may only be fitted if the brake disc thickness is greater than the minimum brake disc thickness (MIN TH). Check dust boot for damage and renew if necessary. Clean contact surface (1) of brake piston with brake cleaner and apply a thin coating of brake pad paste. Attention! Dust boot must not come into contact with brake pad paste as this may cause the dust boot to swell. Clean contact surfaces (1) of T-heads/brake calliper housing with brake cleaner and apply a thin coating of brake pad paste. Clean contact surface (1) of brake caliper with brake cleaner and apply a thin coating of brake pad paste. So as not to damage the surface coating, if possible do not mechanically clean the guide surfaces (1) for the brake pads on the brake caliper mounting bracket. Clean guide surfaces (1) with brake cleaner and apply a thin coating of brake pad paste. So as not to damage the surface coating, if possible do not mechanically clean the guide surfaces (1 and 2) for the brake pads on the brake calliper mounting bracket. Clean guide surfaces (1 and 2) with brake cleaner and apply a thin coating of brake pad paste. Lightly coat the T-head of the inner brake pad with brake pad paste in area (1 and 2). Lightly coat the T-head of the outer brake pad with brake pad paste in area (1 and 2). Note: After completing work: Fully depress brake pedal several times so that brake pads contact brake discs. When installing new brake pads at front and rear axles, brake fluid level must be brought up to ”MAX” marking. Read and comply with notes on braking in new brake discs / brake pads. When exchanging brake pads, reset CBS display in accordance with factory specification. Attention! In E60 M5 and E63/64 M6, the fault memory entry "Mastervac vacuum sensor" can be saved after the brake pads have been changed. The fault entry must be deleted. The vacuum sensor only has to be replaced if the fault is entered repeatedly.
  11. jake13

    E61 Rear Suspension Refresh

    Replace nut #7 and swing arm bushes (#10 & #12 goes into). See pdf guide which I put together from TIS when I did the suspension overhaul for my E61 two summers ago. 5 Series E61 535d.pdf
  12. jake13

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    All should be fine if appropriate areas of the pads and caliper bracket is greased and any missing dust caps are replaced. I use wire brush to clean the guide pins and bore followed by brake cleaner. I do not put any grease during installation and have NEVER had any problems with the brakes.
  13. jake13

    545 thermostat

    Here's an interesting article............... http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=4035 THIS POST AFFECTS ABSOLUTELY ALL BMW GASOLINE ENGINES AFTER 1995! M54, M62, M62TU, N62, N63, N52, N47, N63TU AND OTHERS, OR WHY IT IS A VERY GOOD IDEA TO LOWER RUNNING TEMPS! Why I called it BMW THERMOSTAT PROBLEM? What is wrong with that simple part in BMW?? It looks like a well made thermostat and lasts for a while. Obviously nothing wrong with thermostat quality, in fact its a very good quality part made by BEHR. So here is the thing. Since 1996 BMW introduced 105C MAP DME controlled thermostat for V8 and 97C for Inline 6 cylinders, which can be controlled by DME when needed. So here is what it is, Nothing crazy here- just a heater, so DME can heat it up and open it earlier than thermostat is calibrated. Lets say it can open it at 95C versus 105C mechanical specs. Sounds like a cool idea: -Run your engine hotter in the city or low engine loads 105-110C to get better mpg and less emissions with REDUCED POWER OUTPUT, because they think you don't need it in the city, so to save mpg. May be a good innovative idea. -run it cool on the highway 90-98C to get full POWER OUTPUT. BUT HERE IS A DOWNSIDE, OR A SMART BMW MOVE??: You cannot raise the temperature to 110C without raising coolant pressure (otherwise it will start boiling), So they installed 200 (2.0 BAR) radiator cap. So imagine in the city your cooling system is under serious pressure. Compare it to Toyota 1.0-1.3 BAR max! But they run 87-90C simple conventional thermostats, without any innovations like DME controlled THERMOSTAT, and most Toyotas don't have any serious issues at least 7-10 years, unlike BMW where you get cooling system failures all the time! Exploded, cracked coolant tanks, hoses, gaskets and other cooling system parts. Any tiny leak will lower cooling system pressure and you will get micro boiling, where OEM 105C thermostat can not open due to that micro boiling and you can experience ALWAYS COLD LOWER HOSE SYMPTOM I'M SORRY BUT IT WASN'T THE CASE FOR 1970-1995 BMW ENGINES WHERE THEY USED 85-95 TSTATS. Your engine runs at 105-115C will raise oil temperatures to up o 120-130C which is a lot, though they say synthetic oils can easily withstand it. They forgot to tell you all rubber parts don't like this temperature at all, and rubber becomes dry or even plastic very early: VALVE SEALS, VALVE COVER GASKETS, VALVE COVERS GET WARPED VERY EARLY, ALL RUBBER GASKETS IN THE ENGINE (OIL PAN GASKETS, ALTERNATOR BRACKET GASKETS, SPARK PLUG PIPE GASKETS, VAUUM PUMP GASKETS, VANOS SEALS AND OTHERS). There is a mechanic's favorite joke: -IF BMW DOESN'T LEAK ANY OIL, IT MEANS THERE IS NO OIL LEFT!!!!! I'M SORRY BUT IT WASN'T THE CASE FOR 1970-1990 BMW ENGINES , WHERE ENGINES WERE THE MOST RELIABLE! NOW IN 2016 YOU CAN BUY 5YEAR OLD BMW AND START REPLACING ALL GASKETS. DO YOU KNOW HOW MUCH IT COSTS? VALVE SEALS ON V8 MIGHT COST YOU 3000-8000$ EASY! That's why you can get 5 year old V8 BMW for "cheap". THERE IS NO CHEAP USED BMW:) IF YOU GOT IT CHEAP, IT MEANS THEY GOT RID OF IT NOT TO DEAL WITH REPAIRS. ALSO OIL LEAKS WIL LDESTROY YOUR SUSPENSION VERY QUICK! High running temperatures 110+ will get you small detonation, but since BMW has knock sensors, you will not hear it, because DME will retard timing in milliseconds, so everything sounds ok, but engine power is reduced! Try to drive your car in the morning when cold and compare it to traffic city driving when hot. If you Have turbocharged engine you will notice a huge difference, because high temps will affect inter cooler cooling as well. High running temps can affect cylinder walls cooling unevenly, causing piston rings to lose flexibility and therefore its function, they also call it frozen piston rings (loss of compression, high oil consumption). Thus you might get high oil consumption even on low miles vehicles, but BMW will tell you it is ok AND WITHIN SPECS to have 1QT/1000MIES! N63, M54, N52 ARE THE WINNERS HERE:) OTHERS CAN BE FIXED WITH NEW VALVE SEALS. TRANSMISSION: Since transmission has no separate cooler and connected directly to engine radiator, it also run hotter then it supposed to, and if you have always cold lower hose symptom, I can tell your tranny runs way too hot and way over 82C specs, sometimes I see 115-120C temps, running with these high temps will destroy any transmission internals pretty quick. Even 82C is somewhat high, but still okay. best temps 70-80C for this tranny. In M62B44TU, M62b44 we see lots of issues with chain rail guides broken after 100k-150k, but we do not see this problem on M62B44 E31, where they run conventional 95C thermostat, BUT THE ENGINE IS 100% the same, and this exactly the same engine lasts at least 2x times longer compared to the one with 105C MAP thermostat (E39/E38/E53/RANGE ROVER HSE), needles to say their cooling system lasts 20 years easily. You can ask e31 owners about their experience and how often they replace chain rail guides and compare it to all other running 105C tstat in all other BMW models except E31 of course. My e31 1994 with M60 running 85C tstat had original cooling system, when i bought it in 2012! All parts were original (coolant tank, tstat, water pump, hoses), it had infamous NIKASIL problem (cylinder walls cororoded), but other things were in perfect shape after 20 years and 150kmls! WHICH MEANS BMW QUALITY IS SUPERIOR TO OTHER BRANDS IN SAME CONDITIONS, BUT PHYSICALLY THEY CAN NOT WITHSTAND THESE HIGH TEMPERATURES AND PRESSURE. So as you can see BMW innovative thermostat design might sound innovative, but personally I believe it is done to SHORTEN ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION LIFE, SO YOU BUY A NEW CAR EVERY 3-5 YEARS. THATS THE REASON 10 YEAR OLD BMW V8 COSTS LESS THAN TOYOTA CAMRY SAME YEARS AND MILES! SO TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE CAME OUT WITH INNOVATIVE SOLUTION TO RECALIBRATE ORIGINAL THERMOSTATS AND LET IT OPEN AT 87-90C, VS 105-110C, ITS ALMOST 20C DIFFERENCE AND IT IS HUGE DIFFERENCE, BECAUSE THIS WAY WE CAN REDUCE COOLING PRESSURE TO 1.0-1.3 MAX JUST LIKE ALL NORMAL JAPANESE CARS. ALL RUBBER GASKETS WILL LAST AT LEAST 2X LONGER, BECAUSE AT 110 RUBBER DRIES OUT VERY QUICK. ABSOLUTELY NO ERRORS AND YOU WILL FEEL THAT YOUR CAR RUNS STRONGER IN THE CITY, AND GAS MILEAGE IS ALMOST THE SAME OR EVEN BETTER VS OEM TSTAT. AFTER TESTING IT FOR 4 YEARS I CAN TELL, IT DOES NOT CAUSE ANY PROBLEMS TO THE ENGINE, BECAUSE EVEN WITH OEM TSTAT YOUR CAR RUNS 90-93 ON THE HIGHWAY! WE HAVE 85-95C THERMOSTATS FOR ALMOST ALL BMW ENGINES STARTING FROM 1995. I UNDERSTAND, LOTS OF YOU WILL SAY BMW ENGINEERS DESIGNED IT, AND WHO ARE YOU TO SAY THAT? WELL, I HAVE MECHANICAL ENGINEER DEGREE AND OUR PROFESSOR ALWAYS TOLD US, THAT 90-95C IS THE BEST RUNNING TEMPS FOR THE ENGINES, EVERYTHING HIGHER GETS YOU DETONATION RISKS AND NOT MAKE MUCH SENSE TO GET A LITTLE BETTER MPG... HOW ELSE TO EXPLAIN HIGH ENGINE RATE FAILURE IN BMW COMPARED TO SIMPLE TOYOTAS AND HONDAS?? EVEN KIA IS WAY MORE RELIABLE THAN MODERN BMW, THEY ALL RUN 82-87C TSTATS WITHOUT ANY INNOVATIONS. MERCEDES ALSO RUNS IT COOL 90-95 MAX, THEY HAVE OTHER ISSUES, BUT COOLING SYSTEM IS RELIABLE AND NOBODY REPLACES VALVE SEAL GUIDES AFTER 40-60K MILES ON THEM, NORMAL ENGINE CAN EASILY LAST 200KMLS ON ORIGINAL VALVE SEALS, AND SAME PARTS SUPPLIERS USED FOR BOTH BRANDS BY THE WAY. ALL BMW M ENGINES RUN LOWER TEMP 79C THERMOSTATS, AND THESE ENGINES ARE INNOVATIVE FOR SURE AND THEY LAST MUCH LONGER AND KEEP THEIR VALUE : S54 RUNS 79C S62 RUNS 79C S85 RUNS 79C P/N:1153783615 ALL DIESEL ENGINES BMW RUNS AT 88C AND THEY EASILY LAST UP TO 500k MILES WITHOUT ANY LEAKS OR FROZEN PISTON RINGS (THEY HAVE EGR PROBLEM (which can be deleted) BUT ITS NOT RELATED TO OUR TOPIC) SO APPARENTLY THERE IS NOTHING WRONG TO RUN THESE ENGINES COOLER, JUST LIKE ALL OTHER NORMAL CARS DO. AS YOU UNDERSTAND BMW EVOLVED A LOT SINCE 1995 AND USED BMW CARS DEPRECIATED CRAZY SINCE THEN, ONLY BECAUSE OF RELIABILITY ISSUES. COULD BE COINCIDENCE??? I DON'T THINK SO, I KNOW TONS OF PEOPLE WHO DUMPED THEIR CARS FOR NOTHING, BECAUSE OF THE REPAIRS. IMAGINE NEW 7" COSTS 100K AND 10 YEARS LATER YOU CAN GET IT FOR 10K OR LESS ALMOST CAMRY PRICE! SOMEONE SAID BECAUSE BMW USES LOW QUALITY RUBBER GASKETS, IT NOT TRUE, THEY USE TOP NOTCH QUALITY CONTROL. I HIGHLY DOUBT BMW CAME UP WITH THIS 105c TSTAT JUST TO SAVE MAY BE 1-2% MPG, HOW COME OTHER CARS DON' T DO IT???? IT IS MUCH EASIER TO SELL LOWER MPG CAR, RIGHT?? ANYWAYS, IT IS UP TO YOU TO BELIEVE IT OR NOT, BUT SIMPLY TYPE "BMW LEAKING OIL OR COOLANT N62, N63" IN GOOGLE AND THINGS WILL LOOK VERY DIFFERENT FROM OTHER CARS MAINTENANCE. INTERESTING STORY: One friend of mine bought 750li 2007 with 103k in okay condition with ONLY check engine light on, so when i inspected it, i was pleasantly surprised: engine had zero leaks from valve covers and valve seals were in okay shape!!!! at these miles it is almost 100% valve seals are gone and valve covers leak along with upper timing covers and other things!! so no oil leaks cooling system had ZERO new parts installed, everything was in okay shape, all hoses original and no issues at all. even coolant tank had no cracks, which is very rare. so all components lasted 100k!!! and still lasting THE ONLY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT INDICATED JAMMED THERMOSTAT, WHICH IS NORMAL BECAUSE THEY DON'T LAST FOREVER. SO PREVIOUS OWNER WAS CHEAP AND NEVER TOOK IT TO BMW AFTER WARRANTY EXPIRED!!! BUT THIS JAMMED OPEN THERMOSTAT (FIRST OCCURRED AT 50KMLS) LET HIS CAR RUN AT 80-90c MAX, BECAUSE IT WAS NEVER 100% CLOSED DUE TO WEAR AND TEAR, SO THIS IS WHAT SAVED HIS CAR FROM EXPENSIVE REPAIRS. ABSOLUTELY ZERO NEW PARTS WERE INSTALLED ON THIS ENGINE AND ZERO LEAKS ANYWHERE! CAR RAN PERFECT! SO HE REPLACED THERMOSTAT AND NO MORE ERRORS, BUT IN 3 MONTHS HIS VALVE COVERS STARTED LEAKING BADLY..... 5 MORE MONTHS LATER HE GOT INFAMOUS ALTERNATOR BRACKET LEAK (800$+) THAT'S WHY WE DESIGNED THE WAY TO RE CALIBRATE ORIGINAL THERMOSTATS TO RUN AT 90-95C. NO ERRORS WERE THROWN, ENGINE RUNS PERFECT SINCE 2013 AND NO NEW LEAKS. WE CAN RE CALIBRATE ANY BMW AND OTHER BRANDS THERMOSTATS, YOU CAN EMAIL US WITH YOUR QUESTIONS. NEW ORIGINAL RE CALIBRATED THERMOSTAT FOR N62, N63 WILL COST YOU ONLY 120$ (FAST&FREE SHIPPING INCLUDED), WHICH IS THE BEST UPDATE FOR YOUR HOT RUNNING ENGINE. SOON IT WILL BE POSTED ON EBAY, SO IF YOU FELL MORE COMFORTABLE YOU CAN BUY IT FROM THERE, BUT ITS A LITTLE EXTRA DUE TO EBAY FEES. ALSO WE RECOMMEND INSTALLING NEW HEATER VALVE EVERY 5-7 YEARS (standard symptom-no cabin heat or one side is hot and another is barely hot, also it might cause overheating as well, because you cannot bleed the air if tat heater is partially clogged). If everything is good and no leaks i recommend replacing: thermostat, heater valve, radiator cap. With this 90C thermostat you can easily install 140 (1,4 BAR) cap from diesel engines, because pressure is reduced due to reduced boiling point, which is a good idea, since you do not need to build high pressure anymore, though with 90C thermostat it will rarely get to that point even with stock 200 cap. All bmw diesel engines run 140 (1,4 BAR) caps, same thing with old M20 engines, they run similar temp 75-80C TSTATS or even lower. As you know those old engines could last 500kmls easy, isn't it interesting coincidence: the lower tstat is, the more reliable engine is? You can try our thermostat, and if you are not happy you can return it for a full refund. In most cases people respond with better torque and throttle response after installing our thermostats. Obviously you noticed your BMW runs better before 100C and becomes weaker after 100C.
  14. jake13

    Corrosion on F11 doors

    Not sure model year of your car, but check bottom of the list 51-16-mirrors-finishers-ashtrays-consoles Make sure you don't break clips off the mirror (chromatic is VERY expensive). I found out the clips were broken and mirror was shaking at speed. Bodyshop (private) denied liability. I used 3M Hook & Loop from screwfix. Hasn't moved even pressure washing.
  15. jake13

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Every 2/3 weeks, getting the E60 LCi 530d to regenerate by driving up and down the dual carriageway. Back pressure at idle 30+ mb to 4mb and previously 45mb to 7mb. Short trips to shops and school runs (walking distance!) don't help and thus my services will be required in 3 weeks time