Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


About hitt

  • Rank


  • Garage
    E60 520i
  1. hitt

    Torch Socket

    Quick follow up on my last post. I put together the final version of the torch USB this evening. Same process as above, except that this time the USB ports are contained within the body of the torch for a much cleaner look . . . not that anybody is going to be judging the aesthetics of my glove compartment Not my neatest soldering job. The pins within the torch are difficult to solder on to. They need a sand down to remove any oxidation and allow the solder to take. Finished product! Works perfectly and gives me 5V at 3A. More than enough to fast charge a mobile device or two, or power a dashcam.
  2. hitt

    E60 Scan Software

    Not a Windows 10 scan solution, but I use the Bimmer Geeks ProTool (https://www.bimmergeeks.net/protool) I haven't yet found something that I needed in my E60 that it can't do. I've been through the various Windows based solutions and they just felt clunky and had a steeper learning curve. Carly is useful at times, but is limited and has too many paywalls if you want to get something done. I just wanted to jump in the car, plug in the K-CAN cable into my phone and and crack on. Bimmer Geeks support guys are amazingly good. They spent a long time with me (back and forth for a couple of weeks) trying to help me resolve an issue with my car that no-one else was able to resolve. The downside is that it comes at a fairly significant cost compared to other options. It's been more than worth it for based on it's functionality, convenience and support for me . . . however YMMV.
  3. Is there a lot of work involved in changing over to LCI halogens? I've dug around a bit, but not quite worked out what is required here. My understanding is that I would need to change the Light Control Module and the wiring loom running to the headlights to make this work. Or am I overcomplicating things . . . and this is just a plug and play solution.
  4. hitt

    Torch Socket

    Strange. I thought that the torch port was standard. I know that there is a USB/Aux port that fits in that same position too. Did you have that instead? Also I managed to prototype the torch to USB mod this morning. I see a lot of talk about needing to cut the torch body open, or using a soldering iron etc. However, I bought 3 torches and all of them come apart relatively easily with minimal force as long as you work your way from one end to the other. A guitar pick might help too. Added a few pictures for anybody that is interested. This mod has USB connectors on fly leads, but I'm going to do another one with twin USB ports built into the torch body. Just ordered up a couple of other parts. Very easy conversion: 1. Get a BMW torch - loads on of them eBAY 2. Pop open the torch - you don't need a soldering iron etc, just ease is apart from the back (connector end) and it opens up cleanly. 3. Remove everything from the inside (battery, bulb etc) and cut all components off the circuit board (this is the charging circuit and won't be required any more). You could leave the components on the board, but that leaves less space and risks there being components inside that have power going through them and may inadvertently result in a short if they come into contact with each other while you are fitting the buck convertor. The two pins on the torch are not centred on the torch body (i.e. they are slight offset). The pin on the right (closest to the edge of the board) is the positive and the pin on the left (closest to the centre) is negative. This is the view of the bottom of the board, with the pins pointing away from you. 4. Grab yourself a Dremel or similar. 5. Sand it all down inside, with the exception of the supports for the connectors. 6. Solder the 12v connectors of the buck convertor to the two pins of the torch. Red positive and Black negative. I cut the length of the cables down a bit as they were quite long and I only needed about 5cm on each. Polarity is important. So see my comment above (in step 3) I also cut off the mounting tabs on the side of the buck convertor case to save a bit of space. 7.Snap it all back together and its done. I sanded down a little bit of the body to make a gap allowing the USB cables to come out of the side. This was easier based on the buck converter that I bought that had the USB cables coming out in that direction. I didn't want to bend them too much. I also put the torch lens back on. It looks a lot nicer that way Holding it together in the picture as this was literally after I first put it together and hadn't tested it yet. Works perfectly. The fact that I have the USB cables on leads is useful for cases where I may be plugging and unplugging things. However, I'm going to repeat the process above with a bare buck convertor board that takes up less space and build 2 USB ports into the torch body itself. That will be a lot neater for a more permanent connection for a dashcam. Hope that this is helpful.
  5. Hi, I'm trying to track down the pinout for the SZM/A169 centre dash module. I specifically want the pinout for connector X14056, but a general pinout including X14057 and X14058 would be extremely useful. I've managed to track down some partial pinouts in my searches, but nothing with a full pinout. Any links to Pre-LCI E60 wiring diagrams or specific pinouts for this module would be greatly appreciated.
  6. hitt

    Torch Socket

    Sounds like it's time for a little project to get myself powered USB ports in the glove compartment. I've just ordered up what I need: 3 x original BMW torches (need a couple of spares in the event that things don't work out) 1 x 12v>5v buck converter to give me a clean 5v output. I've got a couple of different types, some with bare cable 5v outputs and others with USB ports already included. Going to be very useful for dashcams and general charging as the 5v output is rated up to 3A. What I want to end up with is . . . Ideally: An OEM torch body which has 2 USB ports on the front rather than a lamp/bulb - might be a tight fit Likely: An OEM torch body with short USB cables exiting from where the bulb would have been. If this amounts to anything I'll share, so that others can do the same. I already have 2 USB ports in the glove compartment that connect to my in-car entertainment. Those provide a data connection too and could also potentially be used to power a dashcam, but I want to give the torch mod a go just just to see if I can make it work. I also like the idea that this stayed powered on for a few minutes after the car has been turned off. Lockdown and beyond has had be finding various things to do to keep me busy in my spare time . . . just one more to add to the list.
  7. hitt

    Reverse Gong Coding

    I've attached a video which shows the module I had to update to disable the reverse gong. It was part of the CCC, but I had to access it via the MOST BUS control module, which still seems to form part of the overall CCC coding. This was coded using the BMW ProTool. They have structured the modules logically, so this may not map directly to other coding tools. Just find this one easier, as it seems like I can code everything that I can in NCS Expert, but using my phone and with a very simple interface. Reverse_Gong.mp4
  8. Thanks @GoNz0 Completely appreciate that the sport button doesn't add any magic to the mix. However, it was my understanding (correct me if I am wrong) that from a gear shift perspective it would deliver the same/similar shift points as I would get by moving the gear lever over to DS and in addition, there would be a greater weight in the steering, i.e. a little less assistance. The latter is more important to achieve, as I can control the shift points via DS or manually change gears as required, so that is less important than adding a bit of weight to the steering. If the steering weight change is a myth and the various forums/videos suggesting that they feel the difference is some sort of placebo effect, then it would be good to know. I'm not going to be repurposing the steering voice activation button now, as it is now remapped to activate Google Assistant in the car. I wanted to use the voice activation button next to the iDrive menu button. Just wanted to check if the FDC_GND connection for the stability control was actually the real ground for the car.
  9. I see that there are no replies to this post. My pre-LCI headlights were in a poor state a while back, not cracks, just very foggy. I spent a while looking at the best solution and ended up using a mixture of wet sanding them down with increasingly fine grain of sandpaper and then using polish to get them back to clear. I topped this off with some UV protector that came out of a headlight restoration kit that I had. This final step did a good job of filling any fine marks in the headlight plastic and made them look close to new. I've attached a picture. If your cracks are bad, then I guess there is a limited amount that a sand and polish is going to do. However, if the cracks aren't too bad, it may be worth trying a good clean up first.
  10. As much as I love to read my own posts it would be great if one of the many knowledgeable people on this forum could shed any light on the questions posed. Beyond the SZM console switch module question above, the main question I have is whether FDC_GND is actually the common ground within the vehicle, or if this is some form of pseudo ground specifically for the stability system? Many thanks!
  11. The E60 Sport Button retrofit seems like it's a universal mod for all E60s. However, when looking at the rear of my centre dash module, the connector that the cables need to connect to is not there. See example pictures attached. I have the module pictured below. I'm making the assumption that I need to change this module out? But before I do that, I wanted to be sure that sport mode is not available using my existing module. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  12. hitt

    Reverse Gong Coding

    What I didn't initially appreciate was that the reverse Gong was not the same sound as the physical warning gong. The reverse gong plays through all the car speakers, rather than the physical gong, which plays through a dedicated speaker. When hunting through the code of various control units, but especially the CCC, I found a lot of duplication and the need to code things in more than one place to get it to work as expected. This was a similar example where there were two separate entries for Reverse _Gong, one showing as disabled and the other still enabled. This could just be the fact that I am using the BimmerGeeks ProTool rather than NCS Expert. I find it so much quicker to code via my phone rather than using a PC and navigating NCS Expert, which I still have to use Google to help me with at times. Getting to the second Reverse_Gong was a convoluted process, so I need to hunt down where I found that setting again to help anybody else like me who (rather stupidly) enables the reverse gong and can't work out how to turn it off.
  13. hitt

    Reverse Gong Coding

    Finally managed to get this sorted. It appears that there are a number of replicated settings within the CCC. There is another REVERSE_GONG setting hidden away in the midst of settings for the installed audio system (i.e. Stereo, HiFi . . ) This was still set to enabled, and even resisted changing back to the default after the CCC was factory reset back to the original Vehicle Order. Just glad that this is finally sorted out. Thanks @know-dice. Appreciate the effort in trying to help me resolve this.
  14. hitt

    Reverse Gong Coding

    Thanks @know-dice. I don't have an OEM PDC module. The car had an aftermarket PDC when I bought it, which doesn't link into any of the ECUs. The sounder for the PDC is also independent. It also doesn't use the CANBUS for the reverse signal. It takes the signal from the reverse light via a relay. So I'm pretty sure that the PDC itself is not the issue, as it's fairly isolated from the rest of the systems. I just did factory recode of both the CCC and KOMBI using the Vehicle Order based on the VIN. Definitely reset everything, as I had to recode my Aux afterwards, but this annoying gong just keeps going when in reverse! I even tried using my spare key to unlock and start the car to see if that made any difference, as the CCC has a separate set up depending on the key I use (e.g. the set of saved radio stations changes based on which key I use). Still no joy. Any chance that it could be a different control unit? Otherwise, I may just have to go around and factory reset each control unit to see which one could possibly be causing this, but I can't imagine that it is any of the others. Thanks
  15. hitt

    Reverse Gong Coding

    Thanks. I've tried that setting and it is disabled. I've also tried to code it enabled, then recode it disabled to see if that would make it stick. There are also a couple of settings referring to JPGONG. Tried changing those too to see if that made any difference. No luck! Screenshot of BimmerTech ProTool attached.