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DepthHoar

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DepthHoar last won the day on July 5 2020

DepthHoar had the most liked content!

About DepthHoar

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    E39 530d (manual) & E39 M5 (2001MY) & BMW i3 (120ah)

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  1. DepthHoar

    540 starter motor

    I had an intermittent no crank/no start on my M5 which has an almost identical starter to the 540. Would always start on the second attempt and spin up normally. Swapped it for another one and all has been fine so far. One of the issues with the starter on the V8s is that they're perilously closely located to the exhaust system and get comprehensively cooked over the years despite the starter having its own heat shield. Your problem sounds like a mechanical one with the starter whereas mine was electrical, I think. I managed to source and buy outright a proper Bosch rebuilt starter (actually rebuilt by Bosch in Germany) but it wasn't easy finding it and at the time it was well priced. Didn't require sending back the core either so I actually rebuilt the old one and have it on a shelf ready for the next time. Rebuilding it was pretty easy once I got the solenoid off and removed the long, thin bolts that hold the starter casing together. OE Bosch parts are not difficult to source and were surprisingly well priced considering. Among others the usual wear problems on the starter are the solenoid, the carbon brushes and the two bronze bushes at either end of the armature. Advanced wear on the commutator can also mean more expense since you'll need a whole new armature assembly. I was warned off other aftermarket starter brands by my friendly-neighbourhood spannerman as he'd seen too many premature failures.
  2. DepthHoar

    E39 M5: 'The Next Big Thing' on YouTube

    More E39 M5 love on one of Doug de Muro's YouTube channels:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sxy1fval9AQ Controversial omission of the E46 M3 created a bit of a froth in the 'Comments' section. M1 excluded, too!
  3. DepthHoar

    Gear shift knob and gaiter.

    Hi Guys, VIN BJ11997 Price, please, for this: 25112282401 Many thanks. Tom
  4. This popped up on the M5board a few days ago:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz9BXzRDEUs Quite high video production values, shame one or two minor techy details about the car went awry.
  5. DepthHoar

    Blower motor replacement

    The correct fan for your car is almost certainly 64118385558. But check it....see below. I ordered the wrong one (64118382305) since I assumed my lowly 530d SE just had regular air con. Cotswold BMW were good enough to take it back and send me the right one, as above. The Cotswold parts guy I spoke to on the phone said he was surprised I'd ordered the 'ordinary' a/c fan in the first place since he reckoned most E39s came with automatic a/c. Anyway, to double check put your VIN into one of the online BMW VIN checker to confirm the spec of your car and the type of a/c you have will be listed. (Mine had S534, which is the factory code for Automatic a/c for my particular model).
  6. DepthHoar

    Fan clutch & fan blade

    Hi Guys, Prices please for the following: (VIN: BJ11997) 1. Fan clutch - 11527830486 2. Fan blade - 11521712110 Can you give an idea of availability for each, too? Best. Tom
  7. DepthHoar

    Fuel Pump Seal

    When you fitted the new pump did you fit a new seal? Reason I ask is because when I fitted a new pump on my M5 I had a massive leak of fuel from the seal when I filled the fuel tank immediately after pump replacement. 5 or more litres all over the forecourt floor. The petrol station operatives were not impressed since they had to temporarily close the forecourt. Meanwhile my M5 went home on the back of a flatbed recovery truck. When I fitted the seal after pump change I remember thinking how difficult it was to properly fit the new (BMW original) seal I bought from Cotswold BMW. It seemed stiff and very difficult to fit. Got it on but obviously not well enough hence the leak...but only leaked with a full tank. There was no evidence at all of leaks driving with a quarter full tank to the petrol station to fill up. I'm guessing you only noticed the leak with a full tank, too? Makes sense since the seal is at the highest point of the tank. Thinking I'd been a complete dick and fitted the seal incorrectly I took everything apart again, removed the 'new' seal and compared it to another brand new seal I got from my local BMW dealer. The newest one was much softer and compliant, and fitting it was a breeze. Health warning: there is a marker on the seal showing which way up it should be fitted. Worth checking! First time around I'd fitted it correctly but its stiffness had not allowed it to seat properly. No leaks with the newer, softer seal. I can only assume that BMW used a different supplier at some time who'd made seals of less compliant plastic. The lock ring is a bit of a pain, I agree, but a old wide flat blade screwdriver and a mallet did the job for me.
  8. DepthHoar

    E39 M5, replacing front coil springs.

    Pretty sure I'm right about the E39 M5 - in any markets - not having EDC. Re. Coil spring availability. If you can get OE springs from a BMW for circa £200 for a front pair then I'd go for it if you looking to maintain the stock ride height and compliant ride characteristics. However, Realoem doesn't have part numbers for the front or rear springs, which is a little odd. Have you had a firm price from a BMW dealer for front springs + an indication of availability? Would be interested to hear how you get on with your quest. Let us know what decision you come to.
  9. DepthHoar

    E39 M5, replacing front coil springs.

    Got me scratching my head....pretty sure the E39 M5 doesn't have EDC? Some iterations of the E34 M5 certainly had EDC though. When pressed, the Sport button alters the throttle map and opens/closes a valve in the servotronic steering system to give weightier or lighter steering inputs at the steering wheel (speed dependent). Never heard about EDC on our version of the M5. Perhaps it was an option on JDM variants, or something? Can anyone confirm or deny the presence of EDC on the E39 M5?
  10. DepthHoar

    E39 M5, replacing front coil springs.

    The answer lies here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HazjbObj3g
  11. DepthHoar

    Mitivac for oil change?

    I too wondered if the vacuum method of oil extraction would leave some oil in the sump. It probably does leave a little in but not a significant amount on my cars. The handy markings on the side of the 6.5 litre capacity Pela pump means I can gauge pretty accurately how much has been extracted. Normally it shows about 6.3l taken from the sump of my 530d (oil capacity including filter is 6.5 litres), plus a bit from the oil filter holder. Total extracted is circa 6.4 litres. I'm happy with that. Actually, I'm delighted since I can do an oil and filter change standing up in front of the engine bay and not have to furk around crawling about under the car! That's a big win in my book! As far as I can tell my Pela pump more or less takes all the oil from my M5 but only if the oil is warm/hot. (If the M5 engine oil is cold the pump has real problems taking the last 250ml). The M5 will have a different oil pan to the 530d meaning that the dipstick bottoms out at a lower point compared to the 530d. So I don't think there's a universal rule about the effectiveness of vacuum pumps over a sump plug drain oil change. A lot depends on the individual characteristics of each engine/oil pan. There are many videos on YouTube documenting the success or otherwise of vacuum oil extractors. Conclusion seems to be that vacuum pumps work well on some engines but not all. One guy found that the pump left over 1litre in a VW sump but most conclude that 100ml or less is left.
  12. DepthHoar

    Mitivac for oil change?

    I have a 6.5 litre Pela oil extractor pump, this one (which is pretty well priced at the moment from this retailer): https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Pela/650-Heavy-Duty-Cylindrical-65Ltr-Oil-Extractor/EK7?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=base&stock=18871&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2or8BRCNARIsAC_ppyadrg0xYdux8BzANYQomu6INKTgoYfSyGOl-pOUYnZ7iseO5zUqwvgaAuOAEALw_wcB There are many others that look exactly the same - and may well be the same but branded differently - so you're spoilt for choice. It's worked really well for me on all my cars. Top tip is to warm up the engine a little before extracting the oil otherwise you'll find it a long-winded process. I learnt this the hard way when attempting (and sort of failing) to remove 6.5 litres of 10W60 from my stone-cold M5 for the first time!
  13. DepthHoar

    BMW E39 centre air vent removal. The easy way.

    Oops! You're right, Dennis. I'll edit the post accordingly. Cheers!
  14. (Above) Got one of these broken/cracked vents (arrow) on your front dashboard you want to remove & replace? Scoured the internet and been put off the task by tales of having to furk around in the footwell trying to find, then release, an awkward Bowden cable buried deep in the dash? If so, then welcome to the La-Z-boy approach to this job. I guarantee you'll achieve your quest sitting in either the driver's or front passenger's seat just twirling simple tools. I admit I wasn't looking forward to this job. I hate contorting myself to get under the dash almost as much as lying on my back underneath the car. Both suck. I bought the used replacement vent on the 'Bay nearly two years ago more in hope than expectation of ever fitting it. Then along came COVID-19, which of course released a lot of time to tick off all the other (more appealing) maintenance jobs on my car. But I'd finished all those. So my day of in-car acrobatics and bruised/crushed fingers finally arrived. Trying to work out a game plan, I looked more carefully at the replacement vent and the Bowden cable that came attached to it. Surely must be possible to disconnect the Bowden cable at the vent end rather than deep in the dash? I played around with it for while and discovered it was a simple and quick procedure. Why would anyone do it any other way? I guess if the Bowden cable in the car is goosed then maybe you'd have to commit to fumbling in the footwell to disconnect & remove it, but not in my case. Before getting to the removal of the actual broken air vent from the dash there's some preparatory work. Most of the vents I'd seen on eBay came with a fitted Bowden cable and the cable needs to be detached before you go any further. (Above) Removing the Bowden cable from your replacement vent assembly. Grasp the black metal clip and pull it upwards. Pliers will do the job, or lever it up with a small flathead screwdriver. (Above) Compress the two sides of the red spigot enough so that you can push the spigot back out of its captive hole. This was only slightly awkward. Needle-nose pliers work best here. (Above) Simple procedure to finally release the Bowden cable from the vent. The above was done on the workshop bench. Next job is to remove the old vent from the dash...and do exactly the same again but this time whilst the vent was still attached to the car. Maybe not so easy? Actually it was fine. So, removing the old vent next. I was taking the vent out of my M5 so had to contend with removing trim from around the navigation screen. (Those of you with other models will need to seek advice on removing the trim that goes around your radio etc..) Remove the wide horizontal decorative wood effect/brushed Titan/ Piano Black etc that run either side of the navigation screen or radio. (Above) The navigation screen in my M5 showing the trim piece that surrounds the unit. (Also visible are the two horizontal decorative trims left and right of the nav screen. These pop off quite easily with a plastic trim tool or flat blade screwdriver wrapped in tape.) The nav screen surround trim - arrowed in the photo - needs to be removed carefully to avoid breaking the tabs. (Above) The M5's nav screen surround trim showing the location of the tabs. 3 along the bottom.... (Above) .....4 in total along the top. 2 of those 4 are in the top corners of the trim. Grasp the nav screen trim at the top corners and pull firmly out, then carefully detached the 3 tabs along the bottom. Take care and be patient. They pop off quite nicely once you've developed the knack...and they're a cinch to pop back in place of course. After this remove 4 small machine screws with a small Phillips head screwdriver. (The navigation screen unit is actually made in Japan and the machine screws are JIS pattern crossheads but no-one has JIS tools and a Philips head tool actually works OK.) Two of the machine screws are in the extreme top left and top right corners above the nav screen and the other two are bottom right & bottom centre right. The last two are not quite hidden so you'll just see them! Then withdraw the nav screen unit, unclip 2 electrical connectors to release the unit and put it somewhere safe. Now for removing the vent itself. Here's the overall set up: Removing the nav screen (or radio etc) allows you to get your hands inside the nav screen aperture and use your fingers to feel the tabs on the underside of the vent assembly. You may be able to release them if your fingers are thin, strong and nimble. Shovel-like hands are good for many things but not this sort of work..... (Above) I resorted to fashioning some thin, strong, stiff plastic cards into makeshift trim tools. Sliding these in - pretty much where they're lined up in the photo - will eventually release the tabs. Eventually. It takes a bit of finessing! Again, be patient. Once the bottom tabs have released the top tabs released quite easily with regular trim tools. You'll be able to push the vent out from behind with your fingers now. (Above) Once the vent has come loose it'll dangle out on its Bowden cable like this. There's just enough slack in the cable to be able to tease out the metal clip and remove the vent from the cable as described in photos #2, #3 and #4 above. Hook up your replacement vent to the cable and you're done. Unlike a lot of mechanical jobs, putting it all back together takes no time at all. Would I be able to remove the vent without taking out the navigation screen (or radio etc.) unit first? Not 100% sure I could. Being able to push the vent from behind was an advantage, one you wouldn't have with the nav screen in place. Can it be done with the nav screen/radio remaining in place? Probably, but it might be a more brutal process.
  15. DepthHoar

    New turbo v2!!!

    5W40 will be fine. Quite a few forum members use 5W40 in their cars.
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