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DepthHoar

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About DepthHoar

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    E39 530d (manual) & E39 M5 (2001MY)

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  1. DepthHoar

    best place to buy new headlight for my 2000 e39

    Don't rule out ECP. I bought a Hella original for my M5 a few year's ago and the price was OK once you'd added their discount code. (Right now - for my 530d - I could get a Hella original from them for £264 which, in the grand scheme of things, isn't too bad.) Edit: You need to carefully check what's in the box when you receive it from them since there was a minor part missing from mine that had to go back for a replacement. All good in the end but it's one of the downsides of buying from ECP.
  2. DepthHoar

    Removing plenum e39 M5

    Here's mine. Bone stock. Sept 2001 build, though a 2002 production model. (Edit. Looks like you've lost a blade from your cooling fan.)
  3. DepthHoar

    Removing plenum e39 M5

    These two hoses (also in the 'V') have been known to perish and leak on our cars: #14, here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE92-EUR-09-2001-E39-BMW-M5&diagId=11_2667 Failure can be sudden, too. Awkward to change as well.
  4. DepthHoar

    Removing plenum e39 M5

    The dimensions for the thermostat housing 'O' rings are revealed by Realoem, #9 & #18 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE92-EUR-09-2001-E39-BMW-M5&diagId=11_2667 What isn't revealed by Realoem is the material specification for the 'O' rings. I bit the bullet and coughed up at a dealer (Cotswold BMW), where a small discount was available. If you do decide to replace the thermostat then buy extra 'O'rings since most people screw up their first attempt. There's definitely a learning curve:- https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/134093-cool-runnings-e39-m5-thermostat-o-rings-learning-curve/
  5. DepthHoar

    Removing plenum e39 M5

    Could be a big list. A lot depends on how far you want to go 'while you're in there'. If I were to do just two things, as a bare minimum, I'd replace:- #16 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE92-EUR-09-2001-E39-BMW-M5&diagId=13_0819 & #17 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE92-EUR-09-2001-E39-BMW-M5&diagId=13_0838 Followed by #14 and #16 on this same diagram. (#14 can give trouble sooner or later... but it's awkward to remove.) I replaced most of the hoses I had access to under the plenum. The throttle position sensors (x2) also easier to access with the plenum off, ditto the cam position sensors (x4). With the plenum off you will have very good access to the thermostat, so that might figure somewhere on your list too, if it's not already been done. With the thermostat out, replacing the narrow rubber pipes of the oil separator system is a cinch - which are a bitch to change with the thermostat housing and plenum in place. As I said, depends have far you want to get into it. At 144k miles there's quite a lot you'd be well advised to change if the car is a keeper. M - the most expensive letter in the alphabet.
  6. DepthHoar

    New Car added - V8 540i

    The TRW one at £170 is OE, as fitted at the factory. Here's the factory original one (fitted when the car was first built) that came off my M5 - same as fitted to all E39 V8s :- Just make sure the new one supplied to you is for a RHD vehicle.
  7. DepthHoar

    E39 M5 headlight adjusters - MOT failure

    Time to get cutting if you can't bake them off. I hummed and hawed about whether to do this when the headlight adjusters crumbled away and several years later everything is fine. Much cheaper than buying a new headlamp! Cutting an access hole makes the replacement of the plastic adjuster much simpler than trying to do it with forceps alone. The cover patch I put on is more or less invisible, too. It's not a difficult procedure. Here's my approach:-
  8. DepthHoar

    Saloon towbar options..

    The wiring kit was £190 from Cotswold back in 2017.
  9. DepthHoar

    Saloon towbar options..

    (Above) Here you go.
  10. DepthHoar

    Saloon towbar options..

    Westfalia provided the OE swan neck detachable towbars to BMW for the saloon. There's a piece of colour-coded clip on/off bumper trim (+fittings) listed on Realoem which covers the cut part of the bumper. On the bumper itself there are index marks (on the inside of the bumper) which are the cut lines which need to be followed to allow the exact fitting of the bumper trim that covers the cut area. When the swan neck of the tow bar is detached this colour-coded bit of trim covers the cut area really well. IIRC you need to cut the bumper aperture differently if fitting the fixed tow bar. Not sure how you'd need to cut the bumper for a Bosal detachable tow bar. Get yourself a BMW OE wiring kit. There's no cutting into the wiring loom, no dodgy Scotchlok connectors and no wierd electronic misbehaviour from any of the car's systems. It felt like rewiring the Hadron Collider when I did mine but there's a logical sequence of steps included with the OE wiring kit. (Instructions for mine had to be forwarded to me by Cotswold BMW as they'd been left out of the kit I bought.) (I'll post a photo of the bumper cover piece later.)
  11. DepthHoar

    Rusted brake caliper

    Re. Alloy calipers and salt. My 530d has spent most of its life plying its trade on Britain's most heavily salted roads up here in the Scottish Highlands. There was some pitting on the end of the piston (almost certainly salt related) where it's exposed and in contact with the brake pad but they were more or less unmarked everywhere else. Apart from the exposed contact area just mentioned, the rest of the piston behind the dust seal looked unmarked and as smooth as a baby's bum. Properly fitted and undamaged dust seals do a lot to protect the piston from corrosion due to the ingress of road crud and salt. Replacement of those dust seals really ought to be part of a maintenance schedule on most vehicles. I bet most only get replaced when they're shredded due to age and have already let a whole load of salt/crap creep past them and ruin the piston. I'd actually bought new steel pistons from Bigg Red when preparing for the refurb but decided to reuse the old ones. Didn't realise the calipers were alloy until I actually took them apart. Had assumed they would be iron with steel pistons so, when planning the refurb, I bought new standard replacement steel pistons. Looking back, not an entirely good idea putting steel pistons inside an alloy caliper due to the potential for galvanic corrosion, though in reality that may be a minor issue in the grand scheme of things. Brakes International are up to speed with the different caliper types for the E39 530d (Bigg Red, take note!) and list factory re-manufactured calipers for the 530d in both alloy and cast iron (depending on model/age) as well as selling alloy pistons. Interestingly, the alloy calipers are a fractionally cheaper than the cast iron ones.
  12. DepthHoar

    Rusted brake caliper

    Alloy calipers were bog standard OE fitment on my particular 530d (MY 2000, pre-facelift).
  13. DepthHoar

    Rusted brake caliper

    It's normally the piston that corrodes and creates a rough surface for the square cut seal to get hung up on and so not allow the piston to retract. Looking at your first photo, it looks like there's a slight ring of cruddy rust around the piston. The bore of the caliper and the groove for square cut seal inside the caliper looks OK, though I'm only going on the scant evidence of your photo. Try to get hold of a stainless steel piston (if you can - see below) since this will be more of a long term solution to corroding pistons in an iron caliper. The corrosion on the piston doesn't have to be much for the square cut seal to get hung up. The piston surface needs to be absolutely smooth to allow the square cut seal to do its work properly and retract when you release the brake pedal. The square cut seal sort of rotates slightly against the piston when the brakes pedal is pushed and then resumes its position and shape - and ever so slightly pulls the piston back - when brake pedal is released. Rust can get established quickly on the piston if the dust seal isn't a good fit. Try to get hold of original ATE dust seals since these seem to fit better, more snugly and appear to be made of a better grade of rubber. My 530d has alloy calipers and pistons. I'm on 175k miles and still on the original pistons. Never had them seize. The seals have been changed once. Different story on my M5 with iron calipers and steel pistons. Have yet to find a source for stainless pistons for my M5....though I could get them made at massive expense!
  14. DepthHoar

    E39 front door seal - body side

    Hi Guys, Can you price a body side door seal for a front door on an E39, please. Part no. 51 72 7 116 403 With thanks. Tom
  15. DepthHoar

    e39 M5 Oil Choices.

    Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W60 user here. Just paid £117 plus change for a 20 litre barrel (£5.85 per litre). Bought here: https://www.123engineoil.co.uk/Engine-oil/SHELL/Helix-Ultra-10W-60-Racing/p-OIL-465
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