sarahMtony

15v is a little high is it not? I'd expect 14.7v to be max/cut off charge voltage for an AGM battery. Was battery replaced with AGM and definitely coded as AGM again? If all good, failing voltage regulator on the alternator?

Is that the 5 speed in that being pre LCI or the newer 6 speed ZF 6HP?

Not even sure if these have them but what about a tilt/crash sensor having failed? Fuel shut off in case of accident type device?

When I did my 190k M47 inlet a few years ago it was caked on but not burnt on/ hard in anyway. I had the use of a pressure washer at work and this got it off easily without soaking or chemicals. It made a mess, obvs but as it was in a proper booth at work and I had all the PPE on it was OK.

Sounds like a bargain. Not Carbon black though if the VIN data is correct. Black sapphire metallic is not carbon black...

So you got 13 years out of the OE battery?

It's telling you to use 384 but it's an awful page to read in my opinion. They would never tell you to replace a 110 with a 90... Put your OE number in realoems part cruncher and it tells you it's superceded by 384...

I've often thought that slower (ie 57mph) may not nessarily mean better mpg. Does anyone know at what revs the 177bhp N47 20d is most efficient in top gear? Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk

520d looking to replace fronts with budget all weather tyres - 225/40/18 Got full winters/snow on the rear. Can't afford £175 each for cross climates, any recommend any budget option's please?

Yeah and I should have said that I have no idea who aerosus are so am not endorsing them in anyway but that general product is what I bought and has worked very well. Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk

Given you already have it, I would do exactly the same. You will need to code for 80a (assuming car is currently coded for 100) as well as registering.

Did you get to the root cause of this@dj1233? Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk

Let us know if its any good with pics and a link please! as although mine have oe dimming mirrors I know they are ludicrously priced to replace if/when failed. Is retrofitting door dimming mirrors as easy? I have rear view but not door and I think it's dangerous to be honest. The rear view does its job and filters out the headlights but then corner / pull out of lane to over take and you get properly blinded by one of the door mirrors!

Yes two seperate procedures. My understa ding is that coding is used when installing a different type ie going from 100a to 80a. So if you replaced like for like (and all other owners did as well and nobody changed the coding) no coding required. Registering is everytime you put a new battery in, even if the same type as it resets the IBC which will have been charging a very old battery at a lower rate. If you dont reg a new battery the car will likely not charge it fully as it still thinks its got a 7 Yr old bat in etc. I'm sure most will have their own view but in my opinion going down to a 80a will be OK, but not as good. For instance when full charged (and still in good health) will start the car no problem (800cca not changed) but if your use was frequent, short drive cycles mostly from cold with lights, heater, seat heaters, CD playing and heated steering wheel on (as a worst case scenerio) you much more likely to end up with a flat battery as you only started out with 4/5's of the original batteries capacity. Of course a decent run would fully recharge the 80 amp hour capacity so if you mainly do over say 15miles from a cold start with little draw on power from auxiliaries, you will be fine. As you are not using the car much at present an 80a (having less capacity) will go flat quicker sat on your driveway. So unless you are going to make sure you use the car at least say once a week for a decent run or have a trickle charger on the go the small battery will let you down sooner. BTW, just because this 80amp battery is nearly new/not had much use it doesn't mean it is necessarily in good health (ie ability to hold a good charge/actually put out 800cca) as I'm my experience the main reason a 12v Lead acid battery fails is due to it being flat ( Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk

I can't find the order/site where I ordered mine from Germany but this looks like the exact item now being sold here: https://aerosus.co.uk/bmw/5-series/e61/bmw-5-series-e61-air-supply-device-compressor.html Not cheap but been faultless for over 3 years (but is louder than OE) ((at least I know it's running now!)) Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk