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dazh90

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About dazh90

  • Rank
    Mr
  • Birthday 01/03/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brighton, England
  • Occupation
    Automotive Engineering Student

Garage

  • Garage
    '87 BMW 5 Series 525e and 520i (M50B25)

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  1. dazh90

    E28 530d project

    You're welcome The brake servo doesnt have to be changed but if you don't it's a mighty tight fit and risks having the intake rubbing it up the wrong way. I've heard from many it's just what you do... Never tried hitting the engine without a smaller servo like one from a Clio or a Porsche
  2. dazh90

    E28 530d project

    I've mounted an M50 into my E28. Currently, the motor is in and at the correct angle. If it helps, i've used the M20B20 mounting arms and have moved the engine forward by extending the chassis mounting points forward using large anglebar. The rubber engine mounts sit nicely on the angle bar. I haven't permanently settled the engine as i'm still messing around with the propshaft but when i do, i'll probably weld the anglebar in place to the chassis. Seems to work okay. The M20 arms give the engine a nice angle but this is relative to an M50 so hope it can help relative to your diesel. I used a Porsche 944 break booster to allow for more tilt but hear people have used Clio ones too. In the future, i may put a steel plate on the engine block that would allow for me to make my own mounting holes. Probably do this when everything else is settled in like the propshaft length and transmission mounts. Not at the right angle in this photo but, you can see what im trying to acheive. Not sure how much i can help but... i'm happy to if you think it's worth your time All the best matey
  3. dazh90

    Old shocks wanted

    Fella on the UK BMW E28 Owners group on facebook selling a set of used Bilsteins called Marcin Kobylanski https://www.facebook.com/groups/728159567217551/?ref=nf_target&fref=nf Hope this helps
  4. dazh90

    What oil to use in a 525e ?

    Hey, I use 10w40 Part-Synthetic in my 525e. The way i look at it and do it is i use the more cheaper brands instead of shelling out alot for the expensive castrol brand but i justify it by doing regular oil changes. I change my oil once every 8 months or so, i don't give the oil a chance to break down and become really contaminated. Cheap contaminated oil sucks. The advice from others may be to get more expensive stuff and leave it in there longer which...well, is solid advice but what i do seems to work nicely for me haha! Hope my 2 pence helps and good luck
  5. [Solved] Hey Folks So the issue was indeed a snapped flywheel pin. I hope this thread helps out others in the future, as i found no info on it online so i feel bound to duty to report the symptoms (above) and the solution that i found worked really well. Hard to see but, the pin should look like this; and mine looked like this; My solution was to get a strip of mild steel from BandQ which was 10mm across and 2mm thick. I made like an "L" bracket, shown in the photo below. It's important to imitate the original height of the pin which i got from a friend who brass rubbed his pin from a working 525e. The height is 15mm. Then welded it in place. I got it to stay in place by putting a TINY dab of super glue on the back in. If you use this technique, be careful not to use too much glue as it will contaminate the weld so literally... right at the back where the weld wont really hit and if it does, it wont matter too much. Then used a dremmel to grind it back so it wont hit the sensor when it rotates. Trial and error for that part. Slowly rotate the engine and listen out for any contact. I used a sharpy to coat the pin and observe if there was any scratches to the ink upon rotation. So far, no reported problems with the starter motor hitting the weld as it slightly overlaps onto the teeth. Seems to be okay and works fine now. Also applies to the 535i. Happy E28 again! As i said, hope this helps someone out there who is having a 'no start' problem and has done what i done which was changing the ECU and all the sensors etc. Don't assume the pin is intact although... probably chances of the roof falling off the car is more likely than the pin snapping or falling off haha!
  6. Thanks for your input Anthony, very much appreciated I too believe it's snapped off and dont much fancy taking the transmission off (as im currently broken down on a main road with busses driving alongside the car within a meter or so). My current idea is to make an L bracket out of some mild steal and weld it to the area you can see on my photo. Grind off the existing broken pin and replace it with the L bracket so it swipes on past the sensor nicely. What do you think of that idea, in your opinion? Currently waiting on a mate to send me the actual length of the pin from his 525e breaker car.
  7. The query thickens It would make sense if it's to do with Aircon. I imagine the compressor would be around that area.
  8. Hi folks, Thank you very much for your replies! If you could do that for me Dan, i'd appreciate it greatly! It's difficult to diagnose it when you don't have anything to reference from. I can't seem to find a definite image online of the pin :/ Yup, found it This thing is so short, it won't swipe past the sensor..... This is the only image i can find that tells me this thing should be longer although the flywheel does not look like the one installed originally by BMW, it does look like an aftermarket part:
  9. Hey Duncan, The plugs are on the right way as i found your original thread where you are investigating what order they are connected " Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D " It's difficult to know what it should look like as there doesn't appear to be alot of info online about this problem (or from what i can find)
  10. Hi all! This isn't really to solve any known issue as it's never been connected to anything since i've had the car but... damn, i'm curious to what it's for! This is a 525e from 1987 and this thing sprouts from the loom connecting the rest of the harness to the coil. The plastic that its made from is shaped like a circular connector would be but is not long enough to reach anything that it could possibly connect to. It's been dangling in the engine bay for ages and curiosity has got the better of me. Can't find any information for it online and doesn't seem to appear on the wiring diagrams for the car. Anyone know?
  11. Hey all, So my eta 525e AUTO still refuses to start (from my previous threads). Changed almost all the ignition components, distributor cap, ECU, relays, sensors, etc etc. I still do not have any spark to the plugs hence a healthy turn over but no idle. So, i finally had a look into the bell housing where both the Speed sensor, and the Reference sensor are positioned. Because this was new to me when i first had the problem, i'm going to give as much detail as possible with the hope someone may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Speed and Reference sensors push into the bell housing of the gearbox between the torque converter and the flywheel/ring gear. They are both side by side on the nearside of the car, behind the airbox. They are both connected to the engine harness and these connectors can be accessed by removing the airbox and can be seen attached to the block side by side. Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D. Both sensors are the same part number (12141710668) and are interchangeable but you can not get the connectors confused as they must go to the correct sensor relative to the hole identified by B and D. This is what i can see when i look into the reference sensor hole and a i believe my trigger pin has snapped because everything else has been changed and i get quite funky results when the engine is turned over and a AC Volts are measured across the sensor. See Duncan's amazing guide on how to check this if you do not know already below. MASSIVE thanks to Duncan for this, has helped me and tonnes of other people. So the sensor that i discovered was faulty was the reference sensor, which goes into the hole closest to the road. The lowest hole. This sensor was absolutely shot, it had no resistance so was not detecting anything. I changed it for a working new one which i can confirm works as it was tested in a university lab using an oscilloscope. Correct resistance and AC sine wave replicated by a spinning neodymium magnet. This has not solved my issue so this is what i see when i look into the hole. I need help and peoples experienced opinion on this as its the first time i'm investigating it: Now analysing this photo, reveals to me.... this does not look right. Although it does not look aggressively snapped, it does not look long enough!? The only angle i could take the photo forces it to be taken bias to the front of the engine so you can even see the ring gear. If you look at it from the angle the sensor would read, you can barely see the pin! I've drawn out roughly what you would see if you looked at it head on.. So, does everyone agree that this does not look right? Has my pin snapped or is this normal? As the flywheel rotates, it will not swipe across the sensors face/tip. Also, an interesting observation i made of the old, faulty sensor backs up the theory that the pin has snapped. The old sensor has swollen out creating a dome to its face (interesting?...). There are also scrape marks on its face and a dent to suggest its been grinding against something. Wondering if anyone know about this, if they have changed a flywheel on these cars. As the engine rotates and you pass the trigger pin on the flywheel, you periodically come across large tabs of the flywheel that pass by the sensor which are NOT trigger pins. They are just large areas of the flywheel that match the length of the trigger pin. These have long scratches on them like the rust of the wheel has been removed. Long lines of exposed fresh metal as if the sensors swollen tip has made them. So, that is where i am at currently. What do people think? Is this enough to pull the transmission out and replace the flywheel? Has the trigger pin snapped off? Is this normal what i am showing and if so, where would my next area of investigation be? Is changing both sensors enough to move on and look elsewhere? ALL help and opinions are immensely appreciated, i really am stuck. I also hope some of this information will inspire someone else with the same problem and help them repair their own fault!! Kindest regards, Darren - From Brighton, UK
  12. dazh90

    525e No Starter. No spark

    Substitution of ECU/DME, has not solved problem. Gone through Duncan's troubleshooting guide a second time but this time, with a brand new multimeter which is far better. Didn't trust the last one at all. These are the only points worth noting from the most recent run-through of the guide; (See attached image). Any thoughts on this? I DO hear the relay click when it is gently pushed in so it has power but what is going on with the 87's? (Tag 87 - Injector and ECU output) Odd thing i find is, i get 12v to the COIL? correct me if i am wrong but, if i have tried 3 different coils (one being brand new) and i apply 12v to it, surely as the engine is cranked, the distributor will do it's job and distribute that, now ~30kV to the spark plugs? what is the DME doing other than assuring the coil gets its stable voltage? I assume it's not regulating the ignition pulse, hence the presence of a distributor...
  13. dazh90

    525e No Starter. No spark

    ** Update on the situation ** So i bought a brand new Camshaft sensor, and she still has no spark. I now have fuel going to all the cylinders which is nice. Both the Camshaft and the Crankshaft show 900+/-96ohms from the DME plug. If anyone is looking at this and wondering how that is tested, refer to Duncan's guide here --> I've re-soldered the DME to make sure there were no solder cracks and looked for any obviously blown resistors (as they can be easily changed) but nope... all looked okay and still shows the same symptoms. I have a used DME coming in the next few days (60 notes from a spare parts fella that i know - bargain) so after that is tried, fingers and toes crossed she fires up nicely Good luck to anyone else who is in the same boat!
  14. dazh90

    525e No Starter. No spark

    You have the part i need matey? I guess i'll only need the one showing no resistance so... a Cam sensor... Can you send me a personal message on here if you do and can sell it to me? I already have new relays, thanks though .. Also, out of interest, image i've attached, is that the one i would need to get from EuroCarParts if purchased there?
  15. dazh90

    525e No Starter. No spark

    So an update on my quest for spark, So my Reference CPS has failed, but my Speed CPS seems fine. How do i tell them apart? or are they both the same? How would i go about upgrading to Motronic 1.3? This interests me alot
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