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Toughguyhuh last won the day on June 14

Toughguyhuh had the most liked content!

About Toughguyhuh

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  • Location
    Surrey, UK
  • Occupation
    AV & Events


  • Garage
    BMW 2015 F11 520d Auto Luxury Touring, BMW 2001 E39 530i Auto Saloon

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  1. Toughguyhuh

    E39 5HP19 transmission faults

    You'd think so but no - I just finished a 2 week project that took 2 weeks of planning, and heading to Japan next week for a few weeks. It's still sitting there, looking at me with puppy dog eyes every time I walk past.
  2. Toughguyhuh

    Runflats vs non runflats advice needed please

    These are what I put on, run flats: 2 x Hankook Ventus S1 Evo 2 K117B (BMW/Mercedes MO Extended) 245/45 R18 Y (100), Run Flat, Reinforced Price: £313.12 Will be putting the same on the rears next month.
  3. Toughguyhuh

    Runflats vs non runflats advice needed please

    You speak the truth Not an insignificant difference, since the increasing scale isn't incremental, rather exponential. The Bridgestone's would in theory be much louder than the Contis. +1 for the Hankooks - I tried them for the first time on my F11 fronts and they're very nice indeed. Will be replacing the Contis on the back soon with same (runflats).
  4. Toughguyhuh

    F11 rear suspension, dropping and low ride height

    I did a little write-up of the pressure relief valve replacement for your amusement. It might not be your issue but it's worth a look as it was a cheap and fairly easy fix.
  5. Toughguyhuh

    E39 M5 touring build

    Looking fantastic. It's satisfying my OCD to see so many new quality parts all assembled.
  6. So a few months ago my air suspension starting playing up. My car was at around 72k miles and I have a Luxury 520d Touring which has the softer suspension setup. It was mostly dropping when the car was parked but sometimes I'd randomly hear the compressor kick in with no change of weight or distribution. So I replaced the air springs as the obvious solution, with some Dunlop bags which we around £70 each and look pretty decent quality. Problem fixed for a few weeks. But then while driving one day the suspension dropped without warning, luckily on a slow street with no traffic. I stopped, had a look at the back of the car and it started rising again. It stayed up the rest of the day but overnight it dropped and wouldn't go back up, despite me testing with ISTA and verifying that the compressor was working and all control modules were functioning. I remembered seeing a Youtube video by DiagnoseDan where he replaced a compressor and later dismantled the old compressor to find the release valve was faulty. So here's what I did: 1. Jack up the car so the back wheels are slightly off the ground and secure with axle stands. 2. Remove the trim clips and two 8mm hex screws holding the underside cover in place and take off the cover. 3. Remove the 4 plastic nuts holding the compressor cover in place. The under-side ones are a little tricky and you're best using a short socket extension. Remove the cover to expose the compressor. If you have a tow bar like me, extend it out to give yourself more room. 4. Disconnect all plugs and the rubber air inlet hose from the compressor. You may want to disconnect your battery - I didn't, but I did clear all faults with ISTA afterwards. Disconnect the brass nuts of the red and blue air lines going out of the compressor, being careful not to damage the plastic threads in the housing. You will likely get some air coming out as the bags fully deflate. 5. Remove the 4 nuts from the spring-suspended compressor mounts and lower the compressor out. 6. Identify the solenoid valve (should say Wabco with a part number the same or similar to the pic) and unscrew the 2 torx screws. It is spring-loaded so hold onto it when undoing them! 7. If the shaft is difficult to slide in/out then it's faulty. It should fall out when turned over ie. no resistance. 8. Fit the new part, taking care to refit the spring and ensure the part is orientated the correct way. 9. Put everything back together in reverse (be careful putting you air lines back in as the housing thread is plastic and easy to strip) and lower your car back down. Turn on the engine and it should start filling the bags. Once full, the compressor should stop and you may also hear a little air being released, then nothing. If it holds over the next few hours you're probably all good. If not, check that your air hoses are properly tightened and not leaking air. You may not hear it escaping but I had to disconnect and redo mine as it was dropping overnight but inflating again when the engine was started. Tools needed: 1. 8mm and 10mm sockets with 6-inch extension 2. 10mm spanner 3. Torx (T27 and T25 I think, don't quote me!) 4. Plastic trim removal tool Part from ebay, around £20: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223686694947 Time needed: Around 30 minutes.
  7. Toughguyhuh

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    If you asked me 2 months ago I would have probably had time to write up the most detailed DIY ever posted! But I'll try to put something together with some pics and make it a searchable post. Link to the part is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223686694947 There are others but that's the one I went for. But it's actually very easy to do - the most time-consuming bit is getting the compressor cover off.
  8. Toughguyhuh

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    I replaced the pressure release solenoid on my air suspension compressor. After replacing both air springs a couple of months ago, and all being well since, the car suddenly started dropping and not going up again, although I could activate the compressor in ISTA. I eventually found the solenoid pin was fused inside the housing, stuck solid in the vent position, plus there was an electrical short when testing the two pins. £20 replacement from ebay and all is well again. BMW wouldn’t sell just the solenoid, they wanted over £900 for a complete compressor. I wanted to get an original Wabco replacement but couldn’t find any at short notice, only in Germany for silly money.
  9. Toughguyhuh

    E39 5HP19 transmission faults

    Haha I wish. Yes to the first one only! The trans is currently sitting in position under the car on a jack, waiting for the bolts to be reinstalled. Life suddenly got very busy the last few weeks so it’s been left in situ until I get a few spare hours.
  10. Toughguyhuh

    Sense checking my £10 Halfords MOT

    It's very easy to adjust the handbrake and in fact the handbrake has nothing to do with the calipers, pads or even disc thickness. The handbrake uses shoes inside the disc hub. When the cable is pulled, the shoes press against the inside of the hub, holding the car. The Halfords guy shouldn't even have been thinking of removing the calipers unless it failed on pads or discs. Pelican Parts have lots of helpful guides. https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/102-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjusting/102-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjusting.htm
  11. Toughguyhuh

    Specialist mechanic not too far from London

    I used West4Autos in Chiswick a few times when I lived there briefly. Eastern European guys who were straight forward to deal with and although they say they work on all makes I hardly ever saw anything other than German cars there. They were always busy which is usually a good sign.
  12. Toughguyhuh

    E39 radio buttons unresponsive

    Not that I know of, they're not likely to be faulty, but it could be the ribbon cable not seated on the PCB properly.
  13. Toughguyhuh

    E39 radio buttons unresponsive

    If you have buttons with no numbers then it's a MID (multi info display). If it has numbers on the lower buttons it's a standard radio. This is a standard radio. This is a MID.
  14. Toughguyhuh

    E39 radio buttons unresponsive

    It depends which radio you have, if it's a MID then you can easily open it and replace the LCD (it's actually the ribbon cable between the PCB and LCD which causes dead pixels) and while you're in there you can check the ribbon cables for the buttons. It's possible the previous owner opened it up already and broke the ribbon connectors for the buttons, or they're just loose. If it's a non-MID radio then I'm not sure if you can buy a replacement LCD but you can usually find working units (yours will be a flat pin version, not round pin) for between £20-£40 online.
  15. Toughguyhuh

    F11 Diff oil

    I seem to recall there are two different types of bolts, one with a crush washer and the other with a rubber seal. The crush washer gets a higher torque than the rubber one.