lufbramatt

They seem to be very snesitive to wheel balance- on mine I replaced upper and lower front arms, drop links, front tyres, brake discs and pads and ended up with horrendous wheel vibration at 70ish mph which made me hate driving the car. Decent branded parts used. Took the tyres back to have them re balanced which improved it slightly but still wasn't great (won't be using that place again!). Took them to a place that had a Hunter road force machine and as if by magic it's now smooth as silk. Not cheap mind! Interestingly one of the wheels had ended up with about 100g of balance weights on it from the first place, after going on the Road force machine that wheel now has only 20g of weights on it.

Have spotted a lovely black B10 v8 parked in the next road to me whislt walking the kids to playgroup at Hook Meadow, looks a lovely example, nice and clean! anyone on here?

Thanks, what's up with the paint on that looks like it's been keyed a lot? Whats the condition of the bracket above the bumper (last photo)

think I replied to a post you made on pistonheads

Still after these if anyone knows of any...

Summer project is to get the purple 530i looking nice again. Am in need of a completely rust and dent free genuine BMW drivers side wing. Any colour will do. Ideally South East England so I can collect. Will consider a pair. cheers Matt

That set is for Thule bike carriers which use 3 bolts- yes you would need 4 bolts for a roof box. Looks like it depends what roof box you have as to which fitting kit you need for Thule boxes: https://roofracks.co.uk/Thule-Products/Accessories/Roof-Boxes/ Mine is a Kamei so was just a case of replacing the bolts.

When I got my roof box (Kamei Husky) I just got a generic BMW fitting kit from roofbox.co.uk and it fit the genuine BMW e39 roof rails perfectly, the bolts weren't model specific but as above the BMW bars do use a wider head on the T bolts (25mm vs 20mm).

Amazing seeing how good condition that is underneath! Bet that’s was a pleasant surprise!

Try to get 6 sided sockets rather than 12, less likely to round bolt heads.

I tried to do this when I had one, but got lots of people saying they wanted it but no-one actually committed to doing the job on a specific date. So I sold it.

Yes I noticed the foam ring in the video above. Mine didn’t have that, I put a zip tie round the cable to do the same thing.

When I looked at mine the water was running down the Bowden cable for the door handle and dripping on to the inner side of the door frame, once the membrane glue un-sticks it then runs down behind the door card, on to the sill covers and under the carpet. Another place to check is the pollen filter drains (inner and outer on each box) as water can end up draining in to the car via the air con footwell vents. When I did mine I made a secondary membrane out of DPM attached to the inside of the door inner frame (i.e on the side closest the outside of the car) with glass fiber reinforced tape so water never even has a chance of getting to the OEM membrane. Belt and braces etc.

I wonder if the key has been cut to pattern but the ignition barrel is more worn than the door locks as these cars would normally be unlocked with the remote fob but the ignition barrel has to be used to start the car. I’ve had front door keys cut that have done the same thing, took them back to the cutter to have them fettled and they were ok.

Sorry have to say I didn’t read the first post properly! Didn’t see that you had done it recently. it could be the gasket, oil leaks on the intake side of the engine don’t tend to smell as much as it’s oil dripping on to the exhaust that makes the burning smell. Were the rubber bushes on the gasket bolts replaced at the same time?