MikeTheSmith

Sounds about right to me. I’m usually mid to high twenties with a 525i auto. I’m convinced I could get 500 miles out of a tank on the perfect run though usually it’s more like 430-450.

It has been a while… but still a project in progress. I have lots of excuses as to why it’s taken me so long. The engine is together and in the car now mated to the tranny. Just the inlet and a few ancillary items to bolt up before giving it a test fire up. slow project with lots to learn along the way. Hopefully it will all work like a dream but I guess there will be other issues from the car being off the road for a while. Let’s see

I think you will have to mod the baffle - unless you have the sump with an in built baffle. But the clearance with the sump is an IX issue due to the casting for the front driveshafts.

One thing to watch is the clearance in the sump due to the drive shaft running through it. I’m just getting my engine slowly back together on my stroker build and the bolts on the con rod big ends are VERY close to the sump. I had to modify the baffle with lots of trial and error to get it to clear. Not sure if they would protrude any more on a different block. pic is of my modded baffle

It may be worth seeing if unplugging the head lamp aim adjusters. I think the motors can fail and cause strange faults on the system. I remember this happening to mine and unplugging them did the trick. - easy to try at least

I think most were given the higher rated alternator as standard to allow options to be added by the dealer. You can use a vin decoder and see what it was fitted with. It’s option s571a reinforced power supply.

Rebuilt the vanos! Finally the engine is going together again

I have not seen and isofix in an E34. From a quick google it looks like the Isofix standard and products were not introduced until 1997.

Hi, I’m getting parts ready to get the rotating assembly balanced for my stroker build and I have noticed that three of the pistons have some marks on them. one has a gouge on the face that quite a scratch. Another couple have tool marks on the skirts that I’m more concerned about as there is material protruding from the skirt that may damage the bore? any opinions? I’m thinking that best case is that I can clean up any rough metal and smooth anything proud with a dremmel. Not sure if I may just need to get some replacements though.

So then... time to resurrect this thread as i'm now doing this, but as usual out of my depth and learning on the job. I've got the engine out of the ix and stripped down now and have the M54B30 rotating assembly. It has taken AGES to get this far, but that's life. I'm in the process of checking out some engine shops now and getting together a shopping list of what is next. At the moment I haven't done anything with the head other than take it off. The cams are still in with the valves. What is it worth doing to this? I'm tempted to leave it as is, but I feel like I should at least replace the valve stem seals. For some reason I cant seem to find any M54B30 piston rings on any of the usual car parts sites - are there any good/bad brands of these? It looks like the next steps are to get the rotating assembly balanced and the block honed and faced. Am I missing something? - do I need to do anything to the crank before getting this done?

Finally got my crank nut off and got everything free! Now time to start getting things ready to go back together.

The garage (http://www.fivestarautocentre.co.uk/servicing_huddersfield/air_conditioning.php) that re-gassed the AC. I believe the test is part of the cycle that the machine goes through when filling the system, but i'm no expert so could be wrong.

When they filled it last time they did a pressure test

Thanks for all the replies - i'll have a poke around and report back. It seems odd that it has happened a couple of times now and yet it holds pressure and they detect no leak when its filled. From the receipts it says that there was dye to i'll have a look around for leaks first. Then try the bypass.

Last year I got my ac re-gassed and it was all good all summer but when it was re-gassed they found the system totally empty. Prior to that I think it was re-gassed three years, but had been off the road. Now the hot weather strikes and nothing but hot air again. i have been careful to keep running the ac over the winter for a few minutes every now and then to keep the seals lubed. is this something that I can troubleshoot at home or does this need a pro? Any ideas on problems? thanks