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e39_nurburg last won the day on April 10 2016

e39_nurburg had the most liked content!

About e39_nurburg

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    I.T consultant


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    2003 BMW 530d M Sport

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  1. Hi guys, Just a quick question. I can easily pull off the vacuum hose connected to the EGR on my 2005 525d. I'm troubleshooting some issues with the EGR, and whilst someone is revving the engine, should i feel a vacuum on this line when putting my finger on the end? Thanks! JB
  2. Did you get this sorted in the end? I'm having similar problems. Did you have to pull the turbo and clean the vanes? Thanks, JB
  3. Thanks Yas. I will definitely take a look. Am I guessing the turbo needs to come off to remove the actuator? Also, I read before that the reason why these can't be changed is that it needs to be 'matched' to the turbo. Did you come across any of these issues?
  4. Thanks Yas. I will look into that. What was the actual problem with the actuator? Was it caked in carbon? Thanks, JB
  5. Hi Anthony, The MAP sensor was a little gunked up, but not too bad. I gave it a clean out with pressurised brake cleaner, and this made no difference. The one thing I haven't checked are the vacuum hoses - might this be the cause of throwing it into limp mode? Or is there anything else i'm missing? Thanks, JB
  6. Thanks Anthony. I will check this today to see if it's gunked up. I'm assuming though that this would be a definitive error listed in diagnostics>?
  7. Thanks Anthony, I've just checked the turbo actuator again. Because the car is cold, i have 'normal' operation at the moment. I think the actuator arm is performing as normal? (video attached). Thanks WhatsApp Video 2017-06-12 at 12.48.19.mp4
  8. Hello everyone. I have a 2004 525d Touring which has recently developed an issue with loss of power. (120k Miles). When started cold, I can drive normally and I have full power until about 5 mins in, it's almost like there is no boost whatsoever. It does still rev out, but takes about 2 mins to get to 60MPH. With enough space, I can reach 90MPH on the motorway, but this would take about 5 mins. There are no warning lights or messages on any display. What have I done so far? The first thing I did, was a full filter service and engine oil, hoping that whilst doing so, i could spot something physically wrong, like a split hose. I took the EGR off (which actually wasn't too bad) gave it a thorough clean and replaced. Cleaned the MAF sensor with electrical cleaner. Connected BMW DIS and run some diagnostics and checked the fault codes. Changed both thermostats Went for a long drive, and believe completed a forced regen (brother in passenger seat activating and confirming status with DIS). Although, didn't see any smoke, hear anything and the exhaust tip was as spotless as before. My thoughts are that it might be the turbo or a blocked DPF. (the exhaust tips have been extremely clean since I purchased the car 12 months ago.). I ran a back-pressure test through DIS, and the values were fine. However, it seems like it could be electrical. My caveman logic says that "if I have full boost when cold, then disappears when warmed, must be electrical?" I read a post about checking to see if the actuator arm moves when you turn the ignition on. I checked this, and it twitches slightly, but not much. Video here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4v4po1wnyhehim0/2017-06-04 14.40.06.mp4?dl=0 The turbo spins freely and the play is within tolerances. DIS reveals the following error codes: 4521 DDE: Charge-air pressure control, control deviation 3F57 DDE: Charge-air pressure controller Does anyone have any ideas on how to test this further? I really cant pocket a new turbo on this car, so I'm hoping it is something friendly. I haven't checked any vacuum hoses. Thanks in advance to all!
  9. Yes, no. 5 injector seemed totally shot. The pot was full after 5 mins, so i wonder if the solenoid inside the injector failed. It's strange that the car started perfectly right up until i had the problem, although it did get a beating the night before so maybe that was the final straw. I hope the other four hold out for now
  10. Thanks BigBo - I felt like a master mechanic when it was finally fixed! I won't do anything about the glow plugs for now. It starts instantly, even this morning when it was a bit chilly - so I'm not sure how much of a problem it will be. I know i will need to visit a diesel specialist to get them drilled / threaded etc. But right now, I'm just happy to be driving it again.
  11. Hi everyone, Thank you for your feedback, direction and input. After starting the car with brake cleaner, I decided to purchase a leak down test kit to understand where the low rail pressure was coming from. After 20 seconds, one of the pots was almost full, and another half full - where the remaining four hadn't managed a drop. (see picture). So, two new injectors!! After watching a video on youtube with a medieval contraption pulling the stuck injectors, I thought I would be in for a tough time. I undone the bolts retaining the two faulty injectors, gave it a wiggle and pulled them straight out!! £300 later from ECP, I had the two new injectors in and it started 1st time after about 1.5 seconds of cranking!!! I went for a blast, definitely feels faster - checked no leaks. First wash for almost 2 months!! Thanks all!!
  12. Hi Clavourion - I'm not sure what to say apart from THANK YOU! I have the inlet manifold completely off at the moment while i troubleshoot. I gave the inlet holes a light spray of brake cleaner while cranking and it started beautifully!!!! Held tick over lovely too. So they question is now, do i have a faulty rail pressure sensor? Or is there something else causing too low pressure in order to open the injectors when starting? Honestly, the state the car and garage is in at the moment, i never thought i'd see the motor run again!!
  13. Thats what i initially though with the crank / cam sensor - would shouldn't the diagnostics show that there is a fault with either of these two sensors?
  14. Hi IINexusll, DIS displayed the acceptable values to be between 3.4 and 4.2, so i think 3.8 should be OK (it was changed about 2.5 years ago. I can hear it running fine under the footwell - however im not sure how to check the lift pump in the tank, any ideas?
  15. Hi Clavourion, Should i be able to measure the rail pressure when trying to start with DIS? I'm not sure how to measure injector leak off - do i need a leak-off kit for this? Also, if the o-ring on the HP pump is gone, would this indicate a leak? I haven't seen any diesel in the engine bay. Many thanks,

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