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About leew88

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    Telecoms Engineer


  • Garage
    530i E60 LCI N53 M-Sport

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  1. I average around 32-33mpg combined of mixed road driving taking it easy. If you do buy an LCI 530i (N53) watch out for the injectors and NOX sensor which are common failures, causing rough running and loss of fuel consumption by around 10-15%. Once it's running right it a sweet little engine with a good compromise of power and economy.
  2. Good find and great buy, I can sense that the tide is slowly turning back to petrol hence why I won't be getting rid of mine too soon. I've had mine for 6 years now (2nd owner) all it's had so far is a failed NOX sensor other than that just general servicing items etc. My oil consumption surprisingly is very good, approx 1 litre every 6-7k miles using Castrol C3 LL04 5w-30 I've just past 60k miles so next up on the list is a gearbox oil / filter change, so looking for some recommendation around my neck of the woods who knows how to service ZF boxes properly.
  3. leew88

    HIDs and the MOT

    I have 4300k (OEM colour) HID kit in my LCI halogen projector headlamp which looks factory fitted. Technically it should fail the MOT as not factory fitted with self-levelling, the headlight washers (if fitted) must work, since I don't have them it's not applicable. I've never failed an MOT for the past 6 year since fitting them.
  4. leew88

    What is regeneration ?

    For info. I also updated my DME using WinKFP and OBD DCAN (yes was scary) to the latest available version as per Bimmerprofs recommendation. It's supposed to give better accurate mis-fire detection on our highly sensitive N53, so far so good with no issues or spurious fault codes. It is mentioned on there blog https://bimmerprofs.com/msd80-software-upgrade-part-3/
  5. Yes still working fine no issues at all.
  6. leew88

    What is regeneration ?

    I'm happy to report no issues since fitting the noxem. You asked about my exhaust pipes well all petrol engine will deposit black spot overtime, yes mines black but I don't clean them that often to notice how quickly it gets sooted again.
  7. leew88

    OEM DAB Retro-Fit Guide for CCC

    Yes I will kind of agree with you, anywhere far away from the big cities is a flaky on mine too, I live just outside of the M25 / M3 corridor and it's acceptable with the occasional drop-outs picking up the Berkshire programs such as Heart FM, Inside M25 is pretty solid though.
  8. leew88

    OEM DAB Retro-Fit Guide for CCC

    You find it in INPA, F5 to select E60/61 chassis, then select Functional Jobs in the pop-up window, then F3 UIF. You will get the ZUB software information screen for all your modules as previously posted on page 2 of this thread.
  9. leew88

    540i one week in advice/help please

    The V8 oil leaks are a common issue, have a read on this http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=4035
  10. Hi Andy, When I coded my CCC professional to Hi-Fi it flattened the response but also lowered the output significantly to the all the speakers, I suspect this low-level is used to drive the factory amp on the Hi-Fi spec system so this didn't work for me, since upgrading my speakers to Logic 7 with tweeters, I need to turn the treble down to around -4 which is a lot better. In regards to the under-floor sub upgrade, you will not get any improvement without adding an aftermarket amp, I have done this upgrade using 8" Logic 7 subs and it was night and day with an amp. Power to amp can be tapped into the fuse board in the boot, use a fuse tap from Halfords saves you splicing into any wires, there are plenty of grounding bolts all around the boot. If your amp requires a remote turn-on signal (normally older amps) then find a ignition live from the boot fuse board and again use fuse tap to connect to it. You need to grab the high level signal from the under-floor subs (use high level line to RCA convertor if your amp doesn't have it built-in), don't make the mistake that most people do by using the rear shelf speaker level as they are high-passed. So run speaker wires from the under floor sub wires to amp then run another set of speaker wires back to your subs. If you intend to fit an amp to power all the speakers then principle is the same, just a lot more work!
  11. What is that unit then out of curiosity?
  12. Talking from my own experience, I had ignored various intermittent NOX fault codes for years, never caused any rough running or other noticeable running issues or EML light. It was only will I did further investigation that I realised Stratified mode was unavailable for the whole duration of the issue and as you're aware this means reduced fuel consumption due to the engine running in emergency homogeneous mode. Since I rectified the issue by going the aftermarket route (NOXEM) I have noticed an improvement of around 4 mpg which is about right considering that stratified gives an improvement of up to 13% over the non-direct injected models. I would say that if your mainly using your car for town work and your driving style doesn't justify it then you can hold off for now. Since your fault code points to the NOX sensor itself I assume there is nothing wrong with the electronics part, so maybe worth a clean-up.
  13. leew88

    Remote coding of cars

    Not used an ethernet based OBD before but I assume it will be step up from a standard USB OBD. I would test connectivity first by using some non intrusive ie inpa then flash upgrade a non critical module first such as DAB module.
  14. leew88

    Remote coding of cars

    Without the correct cable you will have issues like I'd explained even if someone did it remotely for you.
  15. leew88

    Is ISTA P safe to use and update

    Not being harsh, you are going to run into issues doing whole car software update using D/K Can cable, worst case your car won't start as some module with fail with signature check errors rendering you car useless. The entertainment module on the MOST bus would most probably fail, even if it was successfully you're looking at 10-12 hrs to flash the entertainment modules alone. Some modules I've successfully flashed using D/K CAN OBD cable are DME, EGS, DAB, because I have done a lot of research on the coding forums which ones to avoid one of them is the GWE gearshift module on LCI which fails and subsequently bricks your ECU. Get a proper cable such as ICON and a power supply if you want it done properly.