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BarryM

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Everything posted by BarryM

  1. BarryM

    Intravee thinks it's 1850

    I noticed this at the weekend as I have the intravee set to update the time automatically: Didn't think too much about it and after trying the auto update and getting the same I just set time & date manually via the OBC. However I forgot to untick the auto update and today the clock and date were back to the same - in fact exactly the same as the weekend. Any thoughts on what's caused this as I didn't think the intravee had a battery to run out?
  2. BarryM

    Intravee thinks it's 1850

    Mine is running the same version (no great surprise given the age of them I guess): I haven't actually tried using the nav since this happened as I only use it rarely
  3. BarryM

    upgrade washer jets

    Thought I'd follow on from this old post instead of starting a new one, as I have the intensive wash I wasn't sure on what non return valves to use until I found a link on M5board. Got the Ford Fiesta Mk7 Zetec washer jets here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/carparts-express and had them painted to match the bodywork Got the NRVs here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-Way-Valve-Sprung-Plastic-Barbed-Non-Return-Inline-Water-Air-Car-Gas-Liquid/251338340002?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=553340262953&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I used 5mm fittings and re-used the heated elements from my original BMW washers which fit straight in so no cutting etc needed for the wiring. The Ford washers are not quite as wide as the BMW version so you have to be careful you position them in the centre of the opening or they will leave a tiny gap and you do have to file off the little slot at the front of the ford washer so it seats properly. The jets are as powerful as before and give a good wide 'fan' type spread of screenwash instead of the old jets. Here's a couple of photos: The hoses sit securely behind the bonnet insulation once you put that back on. The washers actually look like they are well painted but I guess time will tell
  4. BarryM

    Rusted brake caliper

    My front n/side brake started sticking recently but as I had them refurbished only 3 years and 10k miles ago I wasn't expecting to find this when I took it off: I never jet wash the car and it doesn't get driven all winter so this was a big surprise. I know BMW brakes are known for corroding but that's pretty poor to me, the refurb included painting which is still in pretty good nick so could this be down to a poor piston seal or maybe it wasn't cleaned up so well when they did the re-furb. How easy is that gonna be to clean up - will a dremel do it and how can I stop it rusting so quickly again, guessing it doesn't have to be 100% smooth as the piston shouldn't actually be touching any of that. Or am I better to just get another caliper?
  5. BarryM

    E39 M5 steering box

    Has anyone got one for sale?
  6. BarryM

    Intravee thinks it's 1850

    Ok, so maybe I should admit I disconnected the BM54 to get RCAs added and this seems to have happened since I re-connected it......not sure if that has done it - but I didn't disconnect the battery at any point
  7. BarryM

    Rusted brake caliper

    Caliper cleaned up some more, new piston, piston seal and dust seal fitted and brake working as expected. I'm gonna look at getting 2 new front calipers and send them off with my 2 rear spares and get them painted but not get new pistons and seals fitted by the painter so I can see exactly what's been done next time! Then I can fit the new pistons and seals myself knowing the full condition - I'll look out for stainless or ally pistons as suggested by DepthHoar.
  8. BarryM

    Rusted brake caliper

    That's very useful info, looking at their webpage it seems the alloy calipers up to MY2000 have 296x22 discs and MY2000 onwards have 324x30 discs the same as mine with cast iron calipers I wonder if that's just down to different carriers for the slightly larger discs, I've def seen E39 people upgrading from the smaller to larger discs but not sure if the calipers are different or not - guess I'll just have to either read up some more or order an alloy caliper and see if it fits.....I guess I haven't actually asked if you know if the earlier calipers will fit the facelift? Just done a bit more reading and 99% sure the fronts aren't interchangeable so back to the drawing board! Interestingly, I think the rear calipers on mine are alloy (I bought some s/hand ones last year) and have just compared them for weight and feel to the fronts so know that is the case.
  9. BarryM

    Rusted brake caliper

    Well that's got me interested but after searching, the only reference I get to alloy calipers on the 530d are my old thread from 2016 when I mentioned my first sticking caliper (you can also see how good they looked after being refurbed)! After searching on RealOEM though I see that PN. 34111163385 from 1995 weighs 2.107KG and the later calipers PN. 34116773131 weigh 4.578KG so you could be right! The PNs don't cross reference in Real OEM from the earlier model to facelift but most other references seem to think they are all the same fitment so I wonder if they do fit. I guess the other point is that 20yo alloy calipers could have been badly corroded by salt. Anything else you can add would be useful
  10. BarryM

    Rusted brake caliper

    That's useful info, stainless steel pistons and ATE dust seals will be on my list once I get this back and working then. And the 530 calipers are the same as fitted to my B10 so where did you get ally ones from as that sounds like the best solution? Thanks for the advice but I have a new piston and seals to fit so I'll clean the caliper up best I can and get the car back on the road while I start to think about a longer term solution. I don't particularly need better brakes but this is the second sticking caliper I've had (the first one brought on my re-furb 3 years ago) and I want to be confident I don't need to re-visit this in another couple of years so I'll be doing something with all 4 calipers over the summer - just not sure what yet!
  11. BarryM

    Rusted brake caliper

    I might go that route later as I'm also intending to get the rears done but for now want it back on the road.and have a new piston and seals to use. The previous re-furb was meant to be everything including shot blasting, painting and new seals but only one new piston (as he said the other piston was fine but if I'd been asked I'd have said replace both pistons). Here are another couple of photos after a bit of a clean: Think I'm gonna do a bit more cleaning and fit the new piston and seal I bought as a short term fix.
  12. BarryM

    E39 audio upgrade

    I upgraded my E39 audio a few years ago and have been running a BM54 with Baris stage 2 amp along with an Intravee/iPod/DAB, with Rockford Fosgate 10” subs and Boston Acoustics S50 speakers in the front doors, I also have OEM DSP and have been very happy with the setup – more than enough volume/bass and far better overall sound than original. However I recently acquired an Alpine PXA-H100 DSP and having bought that I’ve also ordered a Break-out-Box from RichardP so now plan on removing my OEM DSP and can add an amp (or 2) and better speakers. I want to get good quality sound and the extra options the PXA-H100 gives over the OEM DSP seems worth the extra expense but having no knowledge of specific amps or speakers I need some advice J. I’m planning on going to see Baris @ Carphonics to get RCA outputs added (might as well add BT streaming while I’m at it although I will continue to use my iPhone through the Intravee) this will give me a feed into the Alpine DSP via the BoB. First question is around the speakers: I have Boston Acoustics S50 speakers in the front doors which are component speakers so have separate tweeters and crossovers (and are rated @ 55w RMS – max 150w) for now I’m planning to keep these but might upgrade in the future. They are fitted in the OEM plastic pods but I see many people go with wooden door baffles – given there’s not a great deal of space behind the door card what difference does that make? I don’t see anyone using the OEM mid speaker in the door so is that just redundant, is a 2 speaker system better than 3 in this instance? I do need to replace the rear parcel shelf speakers and see that people choose co-ax 5.25” speakers so need a good recommendation here, and given the front plastic pods get replaced why do people install the rear parcel shelf items in the plastic pods and not do away with them in the rear? The rear subs are Rockford Fosgate R2SD4 10” subs and I have no intention of replacing them as they sound great, I actually need a bit more control to reduce the level of bass and the PXA-H100 has separate sub control which is ideal. Now onto the most important part, what amp(s) to run and although I’ve read quite a few threads I really have no idea on this except I want the install to be as neat and unobtrusive as possible. Do I run a single amp for the 4 speakers and subs or a separate amp for the 4 speakers and another for the subs. I see that RichardP installed a Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300X4 and someone else installed an Alpine PDX-4.100 – both in the stock location where the DSP came out and I really like the idea of that for relative ease of wiring etc but I’m a bit concerned about heat so any comments and suggestions around the amps and positioning? Both of those are only 4 channel amps so I’d need a separate sub amp and ideally I’d want to fit something small under the parcel shelf behind the subs if I’m going with separate amps. I will probably do the install myself and plan to use the existing speaker wiring where possible so which is a good car audio forum to start browsing for support on the best way to wire things up? I’ll need a good source to order speaker connectors and the amp cabling too, although I do have a couple of audio specialists nearish to me so am I best to order locally instead of online – I have Sextons Car Audio very close in Portsmouth and Huets a bit further away. I appreciate this is a long post but wanted to try and get all the info I need before I start this, and the aim is better quality sound but not at a ridiculous sound level! TIA for any suggestions.
  13. BarryM

    E39 audio upgrade

    Just got my BM54 back from Baris @ Carphonics so now I have the RCA outputs, also had the BT module added - even though I use the intravee I occasionally get passengers who want to play their music!
  14. BarryM

    E39 audio upgrade

    Popped along to meet Carl at Studio Incar today and it's fair to say he's not added a DSP and amp to a BM54 and intravee system before! After I explained quite why I want to go this route he's agreed to take a look if I send him more info around the PXA-H100's capabilities, it's the integration into the OEM system I really want and after reading how happy RichardP, Maca and a couple of E46 guys have been doing this I'm determined to persevere. The plan is for Carl to recommend a suitable amp and then I'll book the car in to get that and the DSP installed (hopefully in the factory DSP location), after that I'll see how it sounds and possibly look at the front speakers again in the future.
  15. HI, what are the front callipers and carriers like - I plan to get them refurbed so as long as they look half decent with no wear on the shoulders where the pads slide I'll be happy!
  16. Just tested my fog lights ahead of the MOT and whilst the fronts work fine, when I turn the fog light switch to the furthest position to turn on the rears they only come on when I hold the switch to the right. The switch springs back to the front fog light position which I think is normal but the rears won't stay on unless I hold the switch! I know the lights need to be on for the fogs to work. Anyone else come across this? Thinking the switch is faulty but as I rarely use the rear fogs just want to check I'm not doing something stupid.
  17. BarryM

    Rear fog lights not staying on

    Well I followed the process to reset a module to factory using NCS Expert but it wouldn't work for some reason, I wondered if maybe the E39 didn't get the C22 module as it might have gone eol by the time the module was available? Here are my screen shots from NCS dummy for both modules: C18 C22 I can't find any other references to the fog light switch in either file and although both fog light options are nicht_aktiv for tthe C22 module the front foglights work fine, but maybe I'll try setting both options to aktiv and see if that works. Ideally I'd rather reset the C22 module to E39 default so might re-read the process and have another go at that first.
  18. BarryM

    Rear fog lights not staying on

    I fitted the LCM IV back in 2016 and did the VIN and mileage updates with BMW Scanner but I couldn't code the LCM back to factory E39 settings with NCS Expert for some reason as I kept getting an error message when I tried so had to go in and make changes manually based on what I thought was correct. I really can't recall whether I checked the rear fogs but I'm sure I would have done and it's passed 2 MOTs since the swap so this is really odd, but I like your suggestion so will go and take a look at the files in NCS Dummy. My original LCM III was C18 and the LCM IV is C22 so if you know how I can code the C22 back to E39 settings I'd be very pleased to hear.
  19. BarryM

    E39 audio upgrade

    Understood, but I'm thinking more class D amps rather than the 'proper' amps that need servicing. There are some good deals on eBay as well as Talk Audio so just wondering if the risk is worth taking.
  20. BarryM

    Rear fog lights not staying on

    I dug out INPA but can't see any obvious errors relating to the fog lights or LCM. Plugged in NCS Expert and read the LCM setup and although I can't see anything obvious around the fog lights I noted the region settings tend to specify E53 and US more than UK and E39........I upgraded to a used LCM IV which looks like it came out of an E53 and although I'm pretty sure I would have tested all lighting maybe I didn't so wondering if I should have an E39 file for the LCM IV instead of an E53 (I did make a few changes when I first installed it). Does anyone have an OEM LCM IV in their E39 and could share the LCM file from NCS Expert? TIA
  21. BarryM

    E39 audio upgrade

    There are some pretty good used deals on eBay and for the same money you can get higher spec kit than buying new - how risky is buying used audio kit these days?
  22. BarryM

    Rear fog lights not staying on

    Thanks for the suggestion Tony, trouble is it looks like the fog light switch sends the command straight to the LCM and I can't see any sign of a relay. The fact the fog lights do light up when the switch is held in the final position until it springs back makes me wonder if the switch is at fault but I would have thought the switch was just an activation method and simply sends the message to the LCM to turn on the fog lights so I think it's doing its job. I might have to dig out INPA as I think you can activate the lights using that so maybe I'll see something there. Any other thoughts are welcome.
  23. BarryM

    E39 audio upgrade

    Thanks for the suggestion but I can't afford the Helix p6 which looks like it includes DSP but I already have the PXA-H100 for DSP.
  24. BarryM

    E39 audio upgrade

    Thanks for the suggestion bri, so would I be buying the 2" full range driver and then a 5.25" or 6.5" speaker from Hybrid that would match? I guess I'd need to get one of the audio shops to help mount the 2" speaker to make it look professional. I've done some reading on Talk Audio and tbh I'm just getting more ideas/more confused so beginning to think I'm gonna need to go and look at options and discuss at a couple of specialists.
  25. BarryM

    E39 audio upgrade

    Hi Dennis, Thanks for the follow-up, as you suggest I think a 5 channel amp sounds like a good option and the choice is huge but I'd been looking at the Alpine PDX-V9 mainly because it will fit - a bit more than I would like to spend but if it does all the speakers then maybe worthwhile. I'm not specifically an Alpine fan so interested in feedback on that one - most other amps of similar spec seem bigger physically so won't fit in the original location. The Mosconi models don't seem the right spec? For speakers I've not heard of Gladen but the cost seems fair so will put them on my short list along with Hertz, still not sure about 5.25 or 6.5 so will need to think more about this. I'll try and get along to one or two of the audio shops to discuss further but keep the suggestions coming. Barry.
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