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BarryM

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Everything posted by BarryM

  1. BarryM

    DSC compressor

    When you get to the bleeding instructions in DIS make sure you scroll down to read them all first, I didn’t realise there was more than I could see in my small laptop screen and it makes more sense once you read it al before you start!
  2. BarryM

    DSC compressor

    I'm replacing my brake master cylinder and had to remove more than I expected so now have the DSC compressor disconnected and removed so has anyone done this before and know if I can simply bleed the brakes manually or does the ABS need to be cycled using DIS or similar? TIA
  3. BarryM

    So what are you doing in isolation?

    You’ve done some great work on your property Mick, shame you don’t have your own thread for it but keep the updates coming. all the best Barry
  4. BarryM

    Battery reading 1.06v

    Not used the car much recently but went out to the garage today and remote wouldn't work so after unlocking it manually I stuck a multimeter on the battery and it reads 1.06v.....I did drive it a week ago but reckon it must have suffered some kind of major failure! It's a Bosch S5 0120 from 2016 and spent lots of time on a CTEK battery tender but today the CTEK just has a flashing green light which apparently happens at <2v Thinking I might go for one of the AGM batteries as the car has spent quite a lot of time sitting in the garage recently!
  5. BarryM

    Battery reading 1.06v

    I was trying to demonstrate that the battery voltage had barely moved over 48hrs which indicated no parasitic drain, I'm doing a 400mile round trip this weekend so that should give it a charge
  6. BarryM

    Battery reading 1.06v

    Thanks for your input Clavurion,, too late I’m afraid as I went with another Bosch S5 020:on the basis the last one had done ok (no more than ok though in my opinion). I installed the battery on Tuesday evening and noted the voltage @ 12.36v and purposely didn’t charge the battery or lock the car. 48hrs later and the battery reads 12.35v so I think that points to a seriously failed battery instead of a parasitic draw.
  7. BarryM

    Battery reading 1.06v

    I guess my concern was the knackered AGM battery on the bike I bought had been charged on a regular battery charger and potentially killed it, and then I figured it could be overcharged by the alternator constantly charging it without electronics to monitor charging rate but I might be over thinking it all!
  8. BarryM

    Battery reading 1.06v

    CTEK was showing a full set of LEDs this morning suggesting battery was all good.....13.34v after disconnecting the charger and then down to 12.85v an hour later. I'm off out until this afternoon but gonna see what happens to it after I try starting the car! I will definitely be ordering a new battery before I use the car in anger again, have read some interesting stuff about how you have to be careful not to overcharge an AGM battery and as the E39 has no electronics to regulate the charge going back into the battery I'm not so sure getting one is a good move. I recently bought a used motorbike that had a duff AGM battery and the chap had been using a regular battery charger instead of a dedicated AGM type charger which I think killed it so I need to look into AGM a bit more yet.
  9. BarryM

    Battery reading 1.06v

    Thanks for the replies. I connected my battery pack which managed to put a bit of power into the Bosch and then connected the CTEK which was tricked into thinking the battery had enough charge so started charging it - currently on led 3 of 7 so I'll have a look tomorrow. I immediately used my remote to turn off the alarm in case the charging failed and set it off. My FSU failed years ago so I know about that and being the paranoid type I often check the charging rate whilst driving so I know the alternator is doing its job. I'm keeping my fingers crossed the battery just had a massive failure as off for a few days towards the end of next week with a 4hr drive each way, my little battery pack always starts the car if I've been tinkering about on the drive for too long with the doors open etc so I know I have a way to start the car if it has developed a parasitic drain. I've been thinking for a while the battery was past it's best and the CTEK has just masked it by always keeping it in good condition so I'll give some thought to what to replace it with. I had a Varta before this Bosch so that's 2 batteries in 10yrs which isn't too bad I guess.
  10. BarryM

    Battery reading 1.06v

    tbh I'm not sure anything would take it down to 1v - surely if it was a drain the battery would be at 0, although I've never really thought of checking a battery voltage when it was flat before. I guess I did it because the car was fine only last week so was a bit confused.
  11. BarryM

    Are they having a laugh?

    You might as well have taken it to a BMW dealer!
  12. BarryM

    new springs for Alpina B10 V8

    Car is garaged but done 128k on that suspension, they look in pretty good condition given the age - and I sent you a PM earlier.
  13. BarryM

    new springs for Alpina B10 V8

    I think you should park the V8s idea, what you want is the right stuff for your car. I contacted Alpina direct and got the PNs and then ordered the full kit from Alloy Wheels Direct who are very good (I would never order an Alpina part through the BMW network as they're clueless and charge you more). I've just checked back and I've managed to do around £3k miles in the last year which seems quite good given covid restrictions.....as I said in my post following installation the difference is pretty minimal which is surprising but when you look at my old stuff it still looks in very good condition which is impressive after 20 odd years. My front springs are PN 31 33 632 so if you can confirm what yours are then I can probably help you out, will drop you a PM.
  14. BarryM

    new springs for Alpina B10 V8

    What you need is a B10 owner who did a full suspension refresh and still has the old stuff sitting in his garage doing nothing
  15. BarryM

    E34 M5 Touring restoration

    Great work as always but I’d leave that for show and stick one of these in your door pocket if you want something that would actually help in an emergency: https://firesafetystick.com/
  16. BarryM

    540i Water cooled alternator dissection

    I run it up to 6k but not beyond when I go out for a blast, the UK roads are too busy most of the time :(
  17. BarryM

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Mine is wildly optimistic!
  18. BarryM

    540i Water cooled alternator dissection

    You guys need to get out more I had my alternator repaired maybe 6/7 years ago and touch wood it’s been fine since but you never know when your E39 is gonna surprise you!
  19. BarryM

    OEM oil cooler install

    Here's a couple of images from behind and you can clearly see the cooling duct to the right, It mounts at 3 points and you can see the rear mounting point clearly whilst the other 2 are obvious if you see an image of the OEM cooler. I'm afraid I don't have any experience of the M5 bumper but I'll try and help with any other questions, hope this is useful.
  20. BarryM

    OEM oil cooler install

    I'd never heard of the E39 OEM oil cooler until Sayanthan advertised his gulf oil filter housing for sale and then I just had to do it, so I blame him for the following install Plenty of E39 M5 owners have fitted an oil cooler but they haven't used the OEM cooler and whilst I appreciate an aftermarket one might be a tad more efficient I prefer to install OEM stuff if possible. There's very little about this on any forums so thought I'd document what's involved although I appreciate no-one else is likely to do this, but as the M62 runs pretty hot I decided it couldn’t do any harm, and I am not interested in fitting the lower temp thermostat as that would be too easy! It turns out that whilst the OEM oil cooler is still available (managed to order a Behr instead of genuine BMW but it's the identical product), the BMW hoses are NLA. I ordered the E39 brackets and fittings from Cotswold so then just needed to think about how to get hoses made up! To start with the oil cooler fits where the horns are mounted behind the n/s fog light and there is really no spare room to just move them slightly so I ended up re-locating them to the o/s behind the fog light and making up a bracket. One of my horns was making a farting noise so I also replaced the standard horns with dual PIAA horns (500hz/600hz). I installed the oil cooler next, just to the right of the n/s fog light, there's a cut out in the plastic tray behind the headlight so the rad ends pop up below the oil filter housing but they are pretty close! As the OEM oil cooler has push fit hose ends I started to look at options and bought some used pipes from an E39 525TDS (which seems to have an oil cooler...), the plan was I would cut off the BMW fittings and get them welded to AN-10 oil hose fittings. I offered up the gulf housing a number of times to try and gauge what length hoses and fittings would be needed and they would be very short if I could go direct but clearance looked to be an issue. After searching for Goodridge suppliers locally I came across a small specialist called South Coast Workshop in Emsworth so pretty local to me, the boss specialises in Japanese performance cars but was game to make-up some oil lines for me. So I popped along and we talked about moving the oil filter housing to make space and he mentioned a company on eBay who sell top quality oil fittings at a fraction of the cost of Goodridge or Earls: torques_uk so I took a look at their ebay shop and that was a real bonus. Barry @ SCW says the torques fittings are on a par with the well known brands and he's used them plenty so that's what I did. One of torques products is an oil cooler adaptor kit to AN-10 designed for the E36/E46 but as luck would have it fitted onto my cooler so that meant I didn't have to weld any push fittings on and could try to use the high flow fittings instead. I needed to remove the standard oil filter housing and install the gulf version to fine tune the new hose sizes and fittings, once the n/s headlight is out of the way there's plenty of space and after spilling a surprisingly small amount of oil I had everything out of the way to test fit the new housing. With it being so tight I removed the housing bracket and bent the 3 tabs slightly to angle it up a tad and give a bit more room where the 4 hoses cross. Sayanthan provided some SUSA fittings and adaptors with the housing which I used and after some trial and error I came up with a short hose using 180 degree & straight fittings and a longer one to loop over the top using 180 & 30 degree fittings, popped them along to Barry @ SCW to make up and found one was too short! I hadn't realised just how much the compression fittings shorten the hose length and as my short hose has very little scope for flexing I'd been too cautious with the length. Luckily the fittings can be re-used so second time round it was about right! I pre-filled the oil cooler with 450ml of oil and still wasn't quite full to the top of the tubes so realistically the capacity is 0.5l, getting the AN-10 threads to catch was a bit challenging due to the hoses being very tight on length/angle but eventually I got all the hoses on and tightened up. Filled up the engine with oil as I'd done a full oil change and started the engine, within 30secs oil was weeping past the aluminium washers between the filter housing and adaptors so I stopped the engine! This is when I found out what dowty seals are for! Pretty hacked off as it was obviously gonna be messy removing everything to fit the seals I managed to siphon oil out of the housing etc and not make too much mess taking it all apart again but very frustrating! Once everything was removed I cleaned and refitted starting with the dowty seals between housing and adaptor, the AN-10 fittings take a bit of fiddling because they are being fitted under a little pressure due to their shape but once everything was re-fitted and oil topped up the engine ran with no apparent leaks. After a quick spin around the block and re-check for leaks I took it for a 30 mile run and it looks like it's oil tight now. I'd also read all the threads about only being able to display the oil temp in an E39 M5 but as the M5 uses the same oil level sensor as the M62 which also includes the thermal oil level sensor to provide temp as well I did some more searching and this company in Germany offers a little adaptor to allow you to display on the OBC: https://www.car-solution.de/produkt/ekombi-fuer-bmw-5er-e39-7er-e38-x5-e53/ Pretty pleased with the final install and will fit one of the gadgets to display the oil temp too in the near future.
  21. BarryM

    Tyre Inflators

    I've got one of these too, it's a pleasure not having to plug into separate battery power and the Makita batteries seem to last forever
  22. BarryM

    M5 steering box swap

    I’ve picked up an M5 steering box to swap into my B10 and plan to wire the servotronic into the general module but need to get a couple of extra pins for the GM - I can’t find the PN for the individual pins so can anyone help?
  23. BarryM

    M5 steering box swap

    Excellent, nice to get it confirmed - I can't think of any reason not to code the GM now even if I'm not swapping the box for a month or so unless the car will flag up some kind of error message. Any thoughts on why I shouldn't code it now so it's done? many thanks
  24. BarryM

    M5 steering box swap

    I’ve re-coded my ZCS before when I added bluetooth phone and RDC but hoping someone (probably Clavurion) can chime in to validate the change needed! Current ZCS is 20010C904D71E7A4 and I think I need to add 0216 for servotronic so using Zeko I think the new code should be 20010C914D71E7A4 TIA
  25. Nice job, I find it hard to believe a chap with a forum name ending E34 has no previous experience dealing with rust
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