BarryM

Thanks for the suggestion but I can't afford the Helix p6 which looks like it includes DSP but I already have the PXA-H100 for DSP.

Thanks for the suggestion bri, so would I be buying the 2" full range driver and then a 5.25" or 6.5" speaker from Hybrid that would match? I guess I'd need to get one of the audio shops to help mount the 2" speaker to make it look professional. I've done some reading on Talk Audio and tbh I'm just getting more ideas/more confused so beginning to think I'm gonna need to go and look at options and discuss at a couple of specialists.

Hi Dennis, Thanks for the follow-up, as you suggest I think a 5 channel amp sounds like a good option and the choice is huge but I'd been looking at the Alpine PDX-V9 mainly because it will fit - a bit more than I would like to spend but if it does all the speakers then maybe worthwhile. I'm not specifically an Alpine fan so interested in feedback on that one - most other amps of similar spec seem bigger physically so won't fit in the original location. The Mosconi models don't seem the right spec? For speakers I've not heard of Gladen but the cost seems fair so will put them on my short list along with Hertz, still not sure about 5.25 or 6.5 so will need to think more about this. I'll try and get along to one or two of the audio shops to discuss further but keep the suggestions coming. Barry.

Good to see the whole package Dennis, it looks nice and discreet and clearly well put together. Are those door card mods a self contained piece or do they open up into the main door area behind? Barry

I found your post on Talk Audio and very impressed with the effort you've gone to, I'm trying to find some middle ground between OEM and the top end that you've gone for

Hi Dennis, thanks for the very comprehensive reply and I’ll add a few thoughts! I think I’m good with the OEM & Alpine kit as RichardP and others have documented how it fits together so I really need help starting with the amps. Lots of good advice but I guess I was hoping for some recommendations for the amps and speakers. After finding Talk Audio I agree that cheapish speakers are fine in the parcel shelf and I will need to think about replacing the front speakers at some stage. I know the BA speakers are component but could I take them out of the doors and fit in the parcel shelf, I know they'll fit but will they have the range? I am working to a budget so to get things rolling the priority needs to be rear speakers and amp or amps. D class makes sense but I can’t seem to find a small enough 5 channel that will fit in the original DSP location so maybe I need 2 smaller models - any specific recommendations? I don’t want to cut into the vapour barriers and will use the stock door location, but I might order the 12Velectronics speaker mounts if I can slot 6.5s in without any great mods so do you know the slimmer models and will I still get improved sound over the 5.25s if I don’t hack the vapour barrier? I don’t think I’m going for custom builds and 3 way components. My rear subs are mounted like the M Audio which I’m happy with (photo was before they were wired in or the sound proofing had been done), could I bolt a small amp on the underside of the parcel shelf between them? I’ll pop along to Sexton’s for starters as they’re so local, although Studio In Car looks outstanding I don’t think I have the money to go to them, although their A pillar tweeter mounts look terrific.

OK, so I just need to send my BM54 to Baris to fit the RCA leads. Baris does 2 or 4 RCAs but as I'm connecting into the BoB I presume there's no benefit in going with 4 RCAs as only the front channels plug into the BoB - is that right? Planning to connect the RCA feeds from the PXA-H100 into one or 2 amps.

I've seen some of your other posts about rear shelf speakers and I guess it's a good point but I've not seen anyone delete them, what do you have in your car? I guess the BA 5.25" speakers might be too lightweight but I didn't want to make big changes to the door cards to make 6.5" speakers fit - unless some will slot straight in now on the wooden baffles?

I upgraded my E39 audio a few years ago and have been running a BM54 with Baris stage 2 amp along with an Intravee/iPod/DAB, with Rockford Fosgate 10” subs and Boston Acoustics S50 speakers in the front doors, I also have OEM DSP and have been very happy with the setup – more than enough volume/bass and far better overall sound than original. However I recently acquired an Alpine PXA-H100 DSP and having bought that I’ve also ordered a Break-out-Box from RichardP so now plan on removing my OEM DSP and can add an amp (or 2) and better speakers. I want to get good quality sound and the extra options the PXA-H100 gives over the OEM DSP seems worth the extra expense but having no knowledge of specific amps or speakers I need some advice J. I’m planning on going to see Baris @ Carphonics to get RCA outputs added (might as well add BT streaming while I’m at it although I will continue to use my iPhone through the Intravee) this will give me a feed into the Alpine DSP via the BoB. First question is around the speakers: I have Boston Acoustics S50 speakers in the front doors which are component speakers so have separate tweeters and crossovers (and are rated @ 55w RMS – max 150w) for now I’m planning to keep these but might upgrade in the future. They are fitted in the OEM plastic pods but I see many people go with wooden door baffles – given there’s not a great deal of space behind the door card what difference does that make? I don’t see anyone using the OEM mid speaker in the door so is that just redundant, is a 2 speaker system better than 3 in this instance? I do need to replace the rear parcel shelf speakers and see that people choose co-ax 5.25” speakers so need a good recommendation here, and given the front plastic pods get replaced why do people install the rear parcel shelf items in the plastic pods and not do away with them in the rear? The rear subs are Rockford Fosgate R2SD4 10” subs and I have no intention of replacing them as they sound great, I actually need a bit more control to reduce the level of bass and the PXA-H100 has separate sub control which is ideal. Now onto the most important part, what amp(s) to run and although I’ve read quite a few threads I really have no idea on this except I want the install to be as neat and unobtrusive as possible. Do I run a single amp for the 4 speakers and subs or a separate amp for the 4 speakers and another for the subs. I see that RichardP installed a Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300X4 and someone else installed an Alpine PDX-4.100 – both in the stock location where the DSP came out and I really like the idea of that for relative ease of wiring etc but I’m a bit concerned about heat so any comments and suggestions around the amps and positioning? Both of those are only 4 channel amps so I’d need a separate sub amp and ideally I’d want to fit something small under the parcel shelf behind the subs if I’m going with separate amps. I will probably do the install myself and plan to use the existing speaker wiring where possible so which is a good car audio forum to start browsing for support on the best way to wire things up? I’ll need a good source to order speaker connectors and the amp cabling too, although I do have a couple of audio specialists nearish to me so am I best to order locally instead of online – I have Sextons Car Audio very close in Portsmouth and Huets a bit further away. I appreciate this is a long post but wanted to try and get all the info I need before I start this, and the aim is better quality sound but not at a ridiculous sound level! TIA for any suggestions.

That all looks a bit of a mess, sorry but there’s no way you won’t have rust on the sills even if you can’t see it! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Richard, I’ve decided to replace my DSP with the PXA-H100 so need an amp as well. I’d prefer a stealth install so does the Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 give the performance and not get too hot? A few reviews state the amp runs very hot and where you’ve installed it there’s no airflow.

This thread should give you all the info you need but here’s a link to the PXA user guide: http://www.toysinyourcar.com/acatalog/Intravee_PXA_Supplement_V6.02-7058.pdf

Nice work Dennis, it looks like a top quality product. As you know I’m an Intravee man (and still have the Lumidock I bought off you years ago), in fact I’ve just bought an Alpine PXA-H100 so might need some sub help in the near future However if I was in the market for a double DIN fascia I’d be ordering one of these, all the best with your new venture, Barry

Live and learn, my old Jap & German bikes didn’t come to any harm using copaslip but I guess times and technology move on. One interesting thing is I also use copaslip between the alloy wheel and steel hub so will be changing that! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I was always told it was an anti seize so stopped the spark plugs stripping the thread in the head on removal and I never stripped one.....guess my motorbikes didn’t have aluminium heads Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk