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Posts posted by roi354

  1. E61 with 20mm spacers on rear with standard MV2s. No spacers on front.


    I run 245/45/18 instead of 245/40 which gives a MUCH nicer ride and makes the speedo bang on up to 80mph (it then drifts only slightly). Looks a little more off-roader-y than it should but doing 300+ mile journeys makes the world of difference.

    Only ever catches the outside of a tyre on full articulation with a bit of weight in the boot.

  2. My old '56 plate 525d pre-LCI sold 3 years ago on 207k and I believe is still going now.

    It was still on original engine; gearbox; TC; DPF; turbo; diff; prop; etc.

    Only major repairs/replacements over general consumables (inc. anything with rubber in it) were exhaust manifold, diversity antenna and numerous 19" spiders


    Was without a doubt the most reliable and longest kept car I've ever owned.

  3. 13 hours ago, dirtydirtydiesel said:

    My point & many others ;)


    We had a e46 320 m47 & it was great, I can see the more powerful n47 being great in the 120.

    But in the e61 I can't see the point, it's such a big heavy old bus, I also can't see the point of the 525d for that matter (unless it's a manual) if it's an auto the consumption figures are so close.

    But the difference between 177bhp & 231bhp (STD) makes a huge difference to the drive & after re-mapping :twisted:

    That's very true about 525 vs 530 but 12 years ago when I got my first one there were concerns about the aluminium blocks of the 530 vs the older designed 525 iron and for longevity I chose the safer option.

    In reality when I want to go fast I have options available to me and none use diesel anyway so I really don't care :)

  4. The problem with the N47 isn't really with the engine itself, it's the long service intervals that were set when new so companies could lease them and have lower running costs. 

    I've said this before and I'll say it again - long life oil = short life engine


    I can only comment on the two N47 powered cars I know of - one was my neighbour's 320d which snapped its chain just before 100k miles and the other is the 120d I bought for my wife with a snapped chain on 87k. Both cars were serviced between 18-20k mile intervals. Our 120d has had a rebuilt bottom end and refurb head and gets oil/filter every 8k miles. It's done 30k since this work and I expect it would do 200k easily if that schedule were to continue.

    On the other hand I've personally covered over 150k miles over 12 years in two pre-LCI 525d Tourings and the 6 pot is a much nicer lump to have in front of you even though it's slower than our 120d.

  5. The variable vanes can get stuck sometimes and this will cause the slow boosting which then often clears once you're at higher revs and its had time to build the boost.

    I've used a DPF and vane cleaner in the tank before and I think it helped but not convinced. I was looking at replacing the actuator to solve it but it's become so intermittent now that I just manually drop another gear to overcome it.

  6. Just in case that doesn't solve your issue...

    I had numerous occasions where it would display a transmission fault when starting and went through a phase of putting it on Ctek overnight for a few nights. The fault went away for a while but after some short local trips it came back again.

    £13 used IBS cable from an E90 and I've not had the problem again in 2 months.

  7. 13 hours ago, PJAY said:

    I've now discovered another problem.  Could be related to the smoke, but i;m no mechanic so i dont know.


    The new problem is now the kickdown in Auto seems to not be working on hills.  I was driving around Somerset yesterday and got onto an incline that had an overtaking lane for those driving up the incline.

    There was a lorry i thought i'd get past, so throttled up and pulled out and nothing happened. Foot flat to floor and it just stayed at the speed i was doing before i accelerated.  I had to pull back in and let the other divers get past me.

    Funnily, when i tried again,  although it did the no kickdown again on an incline, when i backed off the throttle a bit,  it started to accelerate.  But not for long, because i had backed off,  it started to slow, obviously.  Weird


    Lack of kickdown I can't explain, but the lack of any acceleration at all I have on my 525d occasionally. I believe this is due to the electronic actuator not moving to position. My car has been remapped and DPF deleted however the actual DPF is only partially removed (long story) and it's thought that the car senses an overboost scenario and won't engage the actuator. Once you let off and reapply throttle, in most cases it recovers and accelerates.

    No codes are thrown for this and when I get around to gutting the DPF fully I'll know if that solves it.

    I suspect you've got oil in your DPF (possibly from a leaking turbo) and it's blocking, causing the same problem.

  8. The turbo on my wife's 120d started passing oil from the seals and that resulted in dripping oil into the exhaust. When it was doing a DPF regen if you put your foot down you'd get a plume of black/blue smoke now and then.

    Unbeknown to me it was regenning far more frequently than it should have done (because the pressure differential must have told it to) and eventually it indicated that there was an issue. On closer inspection we found the oil from the turbo.

    Turbo rebuilt, DPF washed and 12k miles later it's quite happy although it does use a small amount of oil. Total mileage is now 115k.

  9. On 06/09/2021 at 13:23, PJAY said:

    The air filter was changed when the new engine was fitted about 3000 miles ago.

    We're going to need a lot more information before we can begin to diagnose the problem:


    How 'new' is the new engine - brand new or rebuilt, rebuilt top end, bottom end or both, same for turbo?

    Do you have DPF & EGR still in place or removed?

    Any mods - remaps or anything else?

    Is this the 520D in your details?

    What year & mileage?


  10. On 26/08/2021 at 20:36, d_a_n1979 said:


    They may have been fitted at am later date, like a lot of BMW owners do...


    The op hasn't stated he's had the car from factory nor if he's fitted the alloys himself etc


    That's very true, but the title of this thread is 'standard tyre sizes' so I'm just letting him know what standard tyres sizes should be on his car.

  11. 2 hours ago, iReaper1157 said:

    Yes and it’s the reason why I started using XHP. my box now tends to just be more committed to the gear it’s in to get you going. The standard Bmw software tends to drop into 1st when you demand power and then it goes with a clunk and bang and unsettles everything. Now, if it’s in 2nd it just stays in it, slips the torque converter and away you go. 


    Thanks. Sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. Coming from an F06 6 series the box in my E61 is a real step back in time (which it literally is!).

  12. 4 hours ago, dirtydirtydiesel said:

    I can't tell you yet because I need to do a couple of hundred miles on my box before flashing as I have just done a full fluid change.

    But read my post on this in what have you done today :)

    I was getting a shunt (drive line slack like feeling) when selecting reverse & D first thing in the morning also some quite abrupt / harsh shifts.

    I've done 40 miles since my fluid exchange & so far so good, all shunt / abrupt / harsh shifts gone.

    All shifts almost undetectable except for the drop of the rev counter, also in 18 months & 16k miles reverse selection has never been so nice :)


    If you find this info helpful, give me a like everyone likes a like ;)


    Thanks, you 'likes' whore you :P

  13. As long as it's C3 LL04 BMW spec, use whatever you like. Just ensure you do regular changes - 10k miles max.

    I give my mechanic friend money to share a barrel and this time around he's got TradeTec which has cost me significantly under £1/litre.

    With the mileage my wife and I do it means we get 3 years worth of oil for both our cars for about £80-90.

  14. On 19/06/2021 at 16:17, iReaper1157 said:

    Thanks for that. Make a solid point. Do you know who OEM is?

    I'm afraid I don't, sorry. All I know is the cheaper one I fitted (still over £160 mind you!) was rubbish but looked fine. I'd ask Cotswolds on this forum if I were you.

    Best of luck.

  15. After various desperate attempts to get it going I eventually decided to jack the back end up and push it out of the way. Got my wife to help but we couldn't move it. 

    She then said 'tell me what its doing' and in a fit of sarcasm I said 'look, you put the key in, press start and nothi......' and it bloody started!!


    So now I'm even more concerned that I have no idea why and zero confidence that it won't let me down in the middle of nowhere.


    Possibly @JasonH is right with the gear selection switch but would that explain why the steering lock wasn't releasing?

    At least I now know how to get it out of park in an emergency if I get stuck completely again (remove the gear selector gaiter and press the red painted band on the lock lever).

  16. I bought a top spec, low mileage, B5 Audi RS4 some years ago and on the way home from the dealer (who is supposedly very trustworthy in exotics these days) I had a blow out on a rear tyre. Inner edge was almost on the canvas which I hadn't noticed when I looked around it. No spare so got recovered from the M25 back to a friend's house that was close by who had tools and a tyre garage up the road. When he jacked it up he found a cracked spring on that corner. Checked the other side and sure enough, exact same crack in the same place - top coil that's hidden as it enters the body. Just because I'd lost faith I asked him to check over the rest of the car for obvious issues and would you believe both fronts were cracked too?!?!

    Car was sold with a service and inspection from the dealer's inhouse technicians along with an MOT from the local town.


    That dealer currently has the most amount of Lambos for sale in the country but I wouldn't touch them again with a bargepole. 

  17. Appreciate both comments but the battery isn't the issue. Just to prove it, I put a known good big leisure battery in the boot and jump leads from that onto the car battery. Car battery went from 12.28v to 12.33v and I left them connected for 5 mins - still same.


    In the meantime I also remembered that on occasion (and getting more frequent) it will also bong an error when they key is inserted to say 'transmission fault, possibly P, R, N or D not available'. If you cycle the shifter between them all the fault will remain. If you slam it into D the fault immediately goes away.

    I removed the surround to get to the park lock, just so I could attempt to push the car out of the way. Moving the shifter through the gears manually seemed to do the trick as every 2 or 3 times it would start fine and others it wouldn't have any of it.

    Does the car need to see P or N to engage the ign circuit?

    I also noticed that the steering lock doesn't engage or disengage some times. Is that connected or a red herring?


    Car has since started 7 or 8 times off its own battery in quick succession, therefore ruling out a battery problem.

  18. If it helps, here's my list of codes from Carly:


    3F57 boost pressure plate

    3F97 boost pressure plate supply voltage

    4203 glow plug

    4475 DIBS1

    4477 DIBS1

    4B10 running controller

    4587 fuel filter


    5F56 CAS signal KL15

    5E8C CAN 'trailers is missing'

    D37D PT-CAN wiper speed (rain sensor)


    I've had the IBS and engine ones for a while. Could it be the IBS cable?

  19. Hello chaps, after a brainstorm session from you all please...


    2005 525d pre-LCI ran fine on a couple of short school-run journeys this morning but now won't start.

    Locking seems fine, not slow or laboured. Interior light works.

    Key in ign and before I could press start, I got the dreaded 'increased battery discharge' warning. Pressed start and nothing. IDrive began booting, time was showing on cluster but wouldn't even release steering lock.


    Tried to jump from wife's 120d and nothing - exact same scenario almost like her car wasn't connected. Then tried from her car directly to the battery terminals with same outcome.


    I've checked the battery tray and it's dry. There is water on the clamp above the battery which is weird and the offside light cluster is now more water than lights so I've unplugged it temporarily.

    Then checked boot floor and its bone dry.


    I did have to go through a few deep puddles this morning but alternator and starter area looks bone dry also.

    Carly is chucking out some engine codes that I know about and has a couple of DSC related ones but that's it.


    Have now missed a hospital appointment for my daughter because this car is blocking in our others. 

    Any ideas please?!?

  20. Here's what I do when I get into a second hand car that's got some mileage on it. This is what I did in the first few hundred miles on my latest 525d that I bought on 115k miles:


    Change oil & filter - I don't care if there's a stamp or bill in the history, it's getting changed anyway. OEM filters should come with a sump washer in the box as well as an o ring for the filter cap. Sometimes an o ring for the bottom of the plunger part of the cap. I use C3 grade BMW spec 5W30 and have bought half a barrel with my mechanic friend which means I get 'free' oil on all my BMW diesel's services (he does all the work, I'm not inclined these days). Cut open the filter and check for swarf - this can really help you gauge whether you want to sink any more money into a car or not.

    OEM air filter

    OEM fuel & pollen filters


    That gives me piece of mind that the very basics are covered as gives you a chance to crawl around under it to check for obvious things while it's in the air.

    If it's passed an MOT within the past 3 or 4 months then I'd leave the handbrake alone, especially if its an auto. My handbrake gets used once a year for the MOT and never again.

    If the latest MOT has a few advisories I'll specifically check for those visually and deal with anything immediate. If it's got no advisories then I'll have my guy check EVERYTHING (he's an MOT tester as well, but mobile so has no ramp). Lots of MOTs get done 'to sell' and can overlook some real nasties.


    I'll then run for 5k miles and repeat the oil change. Never use any flushing treatment unless it's been stood for some years (and you'll be checking and replacing a heck of a lot more if that's the case). Cut open the filter and check for swarf.

    I'll also then do the brake fluid and coolant (in this case it needed thermostats so coolant was done anyway) and begin tending to those niggly issues that are often there - bulbs, headlight aim, wiper blades, cracking hoses, etc.


    Other items like bushes and tyres get done whenever needed, not just at service time.

    Unless it's got a bill from a proper garage for gearbox servicing I assume it hasn't been done and proceed accordingly. Mine has a bill for a recent gearbox oil change but nothing else to support it, so it's going to get done again soon.


    This can sound like a lot to some people but - touch wood - I've had very few major issues or breakdowns. Yes it costs you quite a bit up front but you'll be pleased you did when you have lots of trouble free miles.

  21. On 20/05/2021 at 15:12, reggie59 said:

    No they do. I cannot remember the exact number but it will not do any regen if 4/6 or 5/6 are shot. 100% sure. Faulty stats too, I agree and i think you also need enough diesel left.


    Not on the pre-LCI 525d they don't. I had 4 dead as well as the controller and it still tried.

    Best road near me is far enough away that I can get coolant to operating temp and then it becomes a gentle uphill for half a mile. That was perfect to get it going if it needed to. Mine is now gutted so I don't have any of these worries anymore.