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roi354

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Everything posted by roi354

  1. roi354

    Diversity Antenna??

    And to answer your original question 3., yes. If you buy the correct part number of diversity antenna, it is plug and play - but beware, there are differing part numbers.
  2. roi354

    Fuel additives for Turbo clean

    Currently trialling Forte Turbo Cleaner while chasing a 3F57 code that's putting the car into limp mode. You need 2 bottles into 50 litres of diesel but I got a deal on 4 bottles from ebay for £44.95. The advice I got is to drive the car gently for 200 miles over however long that takes, then get everything nice and hot on a decent length journey and give it hell for as long as you can manage. I'll let you know how I get on...
  3. roi354

    Increased Battery Discharge, trace with ISTA?

    12.something is good. I don't know exactly what defines a new, healthy battery but if you're at 12v+ after a few hours of being parked up then you should be ok for the foreseeable. If your Ctek has an AGM function then use that as it's designed for AGM batteries (obviously). it conditions at a slightly higher voltage. If you've got a full weekend spare without needing the car then I'd aim to whack it on as soon as you can today and leave it alone for as long as possible. My Cteks get cycled between our 4 cars, lawn mower and leisure battery for my shed LEDs, so they're nearly always being used.
  4. roi354

    Increased Battery Discharge, trace with ISTA?

    12.1v isn't terrible at all. When you say you charged it, was that with a charger or a conditioner like a Ctek or Optimate? I have numerous Cteks and given enough time can work wonders on batteries you might otherwise think are dead. If yours is an AGM then use the correct setting on the Ctek (if you have one) and aim to leave it connected for at least two full days. A week is better. You may find that your problems will go away just by doing that. I've not used my 640d hardly at all in 12 months but it's been connected to a Ctek virtually the whole time.
  5. roi354

    MAP Sensor Question

    Did you work out what was wrong? I'm getting the same 3F57 code and I have to pull over and switch off before I get power back. From my research it seems like the variable geometry in the turbo can get gunked up and cause the actuator to not move fully, throwing the car into limp mode. It's been suggested that the first trial should be with a bottle of turbo cleaner into the tank but if not, could be the electronic actuator itself.
  6. roi354

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Had to stop 3 times on a 74 mile round trip today due to limp mode. Only way to clear is to switch ignition off and back on. Getting a 3F57 Boost pressure plate fault which I believe means the variable vanes in the turbo are sticking (or the actuator is dying). Pre-LCI 525d Anyone got any idea whether the turbo treatments that you pour into the tank do anything? For £25 for 2 bottles I might have to find out before admitting defeat and investigating further...
  7. roi354

    Increased Battery Discharge, trace with ISTA?

    You need an ammeter (preferably with crocodile clips), insulation tape and a torch. Disconnect the positive cable from the battery and put your ammeter between the disconnected lead (insulate it too) and the positive battery terminal. Get in the boot and wait for the car to shutdown completely (up to 20 mins) and check what draw you have. Anything over about 10-15mA will mean you have something still live. Then you need to start pulling a fuse, one at a time until you find the reading changes. That'll narrow you down to whatever module(s) or accessories are on that circuit. Do. Not. Attempt. To. Start. The. Car!
  8. roi354

    E61 buyers advice

    My last E61 was a 56 plate pre-LCI 525d and I had that for 10 years. I personally did over 100k miles in it and finally sold it on 207k (should have kept it really) in the summer of 2019. You'll find there are two types of E61 - those that have recently had the boot wiring fixed and those that need the boot wiring fixed. Easy but time consuming, frustrating job. You'll need to pay attention to coolant temperatures as thermostats will be a regular failure point (and block the DPF if not dealt with). Glow plugs and controller are just as frequent. Neither are particularly expensive or difficult to replace. On mine I also had - cracked exhaust manifold (cast ones are available), harmonic damper (easy fix), blocked DPF and a few other small things. Total depreciation was £5.5k I now have a 55 plate E61 525d and this one has been a bit of a challenge. In 3 months of ownership I've done - blocked DPF, thermostats, glow plugs & controller, boot wiring, alternator, set of tyres, cracked wheel, exhaust temp sensor and passenger seat mat emulator. Total cost of repairs has been about £1,200 inc 4 tyres. Sounds steep but I know it'll go for another 100k with general servicing and minimal intervention now. If you're planning on keeping it long term then look after the common things and get a decent code reader to pre-empt what's going to need your attention. You'll be absolutely fine. They also run on pretty much anything. My last one used to get the wife's old cooking oil thrown onto at least 1/2 a tank of diesel, and whenever it had an oil change, that would go straight in too (through a filter I made up for the task).
  9. roi354

    44E2 Generator fault code help

    It was indeed a Valeo part. I'm the same, I will always opt for a branded item over anything else.
  10. Hi all, Can you help please? I have a 44E2 fault code stored that seems to be there for days, then suddenly for no apparent reason can be cleared. It'll then return randomly. I had a new alternator fitted due to it not charging and the battery is holding a good state of charge. The battery is only 2 years old but is a 100Ah and Carly won't let me register that capacity, telling me to select the nearest size down, so I've registered it as a 95Ah. Do you think I should change the battery for a known capacity or is something else going on? The car drives and charges fine, I just can't keep this code cleared. I also have 3F57 boost pressure plate and 4203 glow plug but I think these are completely unrelated.
  11. roi354

    Broke coil spring

    Nothing to add other than I'm pleased to read you're doing both sides. The amount of times I've read on forums of people doing just one makes me twitch!
  12. roi354

    Tyre advice

    Coincidentally I've just fitted 4 Dunlop SportMaxx RT2s on my E61 which replaced a pair of Firestone runflats on the front and some ditch finders on the rear (previous owner was obviously not the best carer). These are for the standard MV2s and on the E61 are obviously the same size all round - which is great for cycling them around to keep wear even. I went for 245/45/18 instead of the standard size of 245/40/18 for a couple of reasons: 1) puncture resistance - my 640d has 20" wheels and seem to get bubbles in the side walls all the time, so I wanted more 'meat' to the sidewall 2) the spec for the 45 profile was better for wet/fuel/noise than the 40 3) price was pretty much the same - maybe £5 more each corner Set of 4 fully balanced and fitted was under £500 They are so quiet and seem to roll so nicely I'm shocked. Also the increase in rolling circumference has put the speedo into the exact speed by GPS which is also a great little benefit. I now know that 30mph actually is 30mph, 40 is 40, etc. Sure it looks a little more agricultural now but that extra sidewall also means the tyre overhangs the wheel rim, so I've got better rim protection too. I can't think of a single downside and the Dunlops were by far the best performer statistically in either size choice.
  13. roi354

    xHP for Windows 10 released

    When I used to flash the DME on my 335i I would have a battery charger hooked up under the bonnet. The first flash of JB4 or MHD would take nearly an hour and they do strongly recommend you have a charger attached. I might have got away with a Ctek as I've got an MXS10 in my arsenal of Cteks, but even then I thought it would be safer with a proper charger. Fortunately future flashes only took around 5-8 minutes so having the car on a Ctek for an hour before I started, and connected continuously during, was always fine. I'm sorely tempted by xHP on my pre-LCI 525d because the gearbox is so sluggish and never seems to be in the gear I want. I'm not looking for a performance upgrade, just a more economic version to keep the revs lower and hang onto gears rather than changing down 20 when it's floored. My wife's 120d auto seems to behave much better than the 525!
  14. roi354

    E61 diversity antenna

    Hi, can I have a price and lead time for a diversity antenna for 2005 E61. Part number in picture. Thanks, Rob
  15. roi354

    Issues with the DPF system

    It means it's reading a value it's not expecting to see. Have you checked the boost hoses? They can crack/split/leak and cause all kinds of problems. Does the car pull as you expect now you've got the power back or is it still a bit sluggish? Another vote for Carly by the way
  16. roi354

    Power Management Board Network Fault Code

    The Ctek thinks it's fully charged because that's all it can get out of what you've connected to it. The car on the other hand has been told it's a 110Ah and is using/replenishing it as such. The drain you speak of - could that in fact be when you left the lights on? There might not actually be anything wrong at all and it's just that the battery can't hold full capacity. Personally speaking if it was starting the car fine and being used daily I think I'd order a battery and see how it goes for another week. That would give you some more information on whether you do indeed have a drain or if it's just battery related. If you have a problem you've then got a battery waiting to be fitted. I also need to do tailgate wiring on mine but sod that in this weather!
  17. roi354

    Power Management Board Network Fault Code

    There's your problem I think - the battery has been drained past the point that it can recover. Cteks are wonderful things and can sometimes perform miracles, but usually I find if a battery has been drained sufficiently that you don't even get so much as a courtesy light then it's gone. Your Ctek will be fully charging what's left of the battery to charge, rather than fully charging to the capacity that you think it is. Your only hope is to leave the Ctek connected for a few days so it can run through all of its modes, but it's unlikely it'll ever regain it's full capacity. Is this a regular lead acid or an AGM? And have you got your Ctek set on the correct mode/voltage?
  18. roi354

    Issues with the DPF system

    I agree with the above that it could well be nothing and I hope for your sake that it is, however... My wife's car, an E87 with the same engine, was doing exactly the same and also raising oil level and then dropping off the dipstick. It turned out that the turbo was shot and was dumping oil into the exhaust. The system was trying to regen thinking that it was getting high in soot content when it was in fact oil. Exchange refurbished turbo solved the problem along with a quick jet wash of the original DPF and it's been ok for another 20k miles since. Currently sitting on 112k miles. Do you have excessive amounts of smoke from the exhaust? That was our first indication there was a problem, quickly followed by the erratic oil level
  19. Lots of people comment on the IBS but I had a Ctek adapter connected directly to the battery in my last 525d for 10 years and used it quite a bit. Never had any problems, but the battery was usually in good condition when connecting, so maybe if its low it can be an issue? Currently have my latest 525d hooked up in the same way and has been since before Xmas, almost constantly - again with no issues. Cteks are brilliant things, I'd recommend them to anyone.
  20. roi354

    E61. . . . Loves and hates

    For info, on my last 525d (2006 pre-LCi) I didn't know anything about temperatures and stats so blindly drove for ages with decreasing fuel consumption until eventually I lost all power and couldn't get up hills on motorways over 50mph. After a bit of research and inspection it appeared the DPF had blocked due to the ECU over-fuelling in the attempt to raise coolant temperature. DPF was washed out, EGR and main stat replaced and all was well again, but it felt like the gearbox TC was slipping - and had felt like that since I'd bought the car. I considered replacing it but in the end thought I'd wait until it let go completely so I could decide what to do next. I ran that car with a slipping TC for around 7 years and 70k miles before selling. I now suspect that all it needed was a heat exchanger or the VAG stat mod and would have been a lot better. My recent purchase - another pre-LCi 525d - is in the same situation with DPF issues and low temperature so I have everything required on order from Autodoc (which is taking bloody ages to arrive I might add). Main, EGR and VAG stats, 6 glow plugs & module and a few other small bits. My cluster is showing lines round to 5,300rpm so I know the temp is very low. I'll report back once everything has been fitted to share how many lines are then present with good temps. It's worth noting that both cars have/had ALL emissions control systems fitted and working. I'm not a fan of removing anything unless it's absolutely necessary. I'm also not going to bother to remap because if I wanted to go faster I'd have bought a faster car to begin with.
  21. roi354

    DIY DPF cleaning

    That's great to know, thanks. Makes sense that the car is now performing ok but Carly is still registering the exact same value as before. When my mechanic can plug in and tell it that it's got a new one (along with swap the thermostats), we'll see how I get on.
  22. roi354

    DIY DPF cleaning

    Hello all, I thought I'd start this write up in the hope that maybe it will assist others with the same problem. Background: I had a 525d E61 pre-LCI for about 10 years prior to my current 525d E61 pre-LCI that I bought a couple of months ago. The previous car had the exact same scenario as my current car, but the fix was slightly different. Both cars were/are standard, non-tuned engines with all the emission controls still in place (except swirl flaps). The previous car had failed thermostats which didn't manifest as an issue until eventually the car struggled to rev much and wouldn't go above 50ish mph, indicating the DPF was blocked. A mechanic friend helped me remove the DPF, jet wash it clear and replace both engine and EGR thermostats at the same time. Job done and all was well for about 70k miles when I eventually sold the car at 204k miles, still with no issues. Current car: currently sitting at 116k miles but with the prior knowledge of thermostats causing problems, I've been monitoring the temperatures and DPF situation. All parts were on order when suddenly and without warning, it wouldn't go over 50ish mph, just like the last car. Carly was reading a crazy high ash value (120+ grammes) and temperature in the 70-75C region. My mechanic friend managed to put his back out and took some time off so I was a bit stuck and had to use the car. That was when, after a suggestion from him as a 'quick fix', I chose to have a go at the following: I removed the pressure sensor hose (the one with the silver heat wrap around it) and with an ingenious use of a length of 6mm pneumatic hose and a Heinz tomato ketchup bottle, managed to squirt a full bottle (800ml) of allow wheel cleaner (Trolls Breath) into the hose to sit on top of the DPF. I left this for about 6 hours and then repeated with a bottle full of water and left it overnight. Following morning I plugged the open hose with a bolt, leaving the sensor obviously open, put a large piece of cardboard against my garage door to stop anything from staining it and started the car... The sheer amount of crap that came out of the exhaust was immense. At one point I thought I'd broken it completely, but after about 5 minutes the smoke began to clear and I was left with a long stream of pinky-grey lather on the floor beneath the exhaust and splattered out the back (the cardboard did its job!). There was a DPF related bong on the dash but I assumed this would be because the hose was off the pressure sensor so wasn't too concerned. I switched off after 10 minutes idling and replaced the hose onto the sensor. Checking Carly looked like I had achieved nothing as the soot and ash readings were exactly the same, so I decided to take it for a spin. Coolant temps were actually a bit higher than I normally saw prior to this (pure coincidence, don't think that will help your coolant temperatures!), almost certainly due to the idling but ALL THE POWER WAS BACK!! I kept stopping on my drive to check Carly and found myself in a bit of traffic when suddenly there was a minor shudder and coolant temps had risen a bit more. It was actually starting to regen... Now this is the anxious bit... once I pulled away with it regenning, it produced what I can only describe as a mushroom cloud of whiteish smoke from the exhaust, covering the road and making cars slow down. The embarrassment was almost as bad as the concern of breaking down forever, but it quickly cleared and the car was absolutely happy for the remainder of the journey home. I've used the car a few times since (mechanic still not back to work, and it's Christmas now) and it's still running ok albeit with the thermostats still not functioning properly. Occasionally it'll get up to temperature enough to allow the heater to warm me up, but generally not. Once the thermostats are on and temperatures are ok I'll report back as to whether the DPF clean was indeed a very temporary one or if it's lasting. But for now, I can use the car, and that was what I needed to achieve
  23. roi354

    DIY DPF cleaning

    Totally agree. As stated, the coolant temperature isn't hot enough to allow a regen by itself which I knew about and have planned to fix. It's just the DPF beat me to it and I need to use the car while I'm waiting. This method has got me out of trouble for now, but whether it's a long term fix I don't yet know.
  24. Can anyone tell me what would be required to do this and an approximate cost? I've tried it in a friend's SL55 and it was so nice. Mine's a pre-LCI 525d MST
  25. Can also be done with Carly. I need to change my switch but for the time being I’ve set the option in Carly so that the button on the key opens the tailgate and the footwell button pops the glass.
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