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Drew21

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Everything posted by Drew21

  1. Hi, can you please give me a quote for some E38 seals. I have water coming into the boot, near the hinges (dripping onto the trim covers for the nav computer etc on one side, and the battery on the other side). I've had a look on realoem for a part no. but it's not crystal clear as the boot/ trunk seal appears to come in two parts?? trunk lid gasket: 51718150083 and trunk lid cover gasket: 51138165268 any info on which parts you think I need? In the bonnet area it's clearer, the seals I need are: 51718159943 51718159944 thanks Drew
  2. Drew21

    E38 rubber seals, boot and bonnet

    Hi, is there anything else you need? I can take photos of the parts if that would help identify the boot seal part(s) cheers
  3. Drew21

    E38 rubber seals, boot and bonnet

    Hi, thanks. just been out to check, not sure if 0s are O or zero, but this is what I see: Alpina chassis no is wapbc57l08r030130 BMW chassis no is wbagg22040dg70291 cheers
  4. Hi, I bought an intravee 2 with KCA420 unit over a year ago, and have only just got around to looking at fitting it. I've been a previously very happy intravee user, in my E39 B10, very plug and play, and very impressive. Now I have a 1998 E38 B12, with DSP, so less plug and play. I think I know how I'm going to install it however. This post is to record my efforts, for my info, and for the use of others doing similar installs. Also, if I'm going wrong along the way, please correct me My DSP car currently has a Grom unit fitted, which therefore has a DSP converter unit fitted. The DSP converter takes the analogue output from the Grom and turns into a digital signal for the DSP to process. I hope to use this DSP converter with my Intravee, but the rest of the Grom stuff is coming out So I need to take the audio signal from the Intravee (6pin plug) and connect it to the DSP converter via a 3.5mm jack plug. I found a pinout on the internet for this. And I need to connect power and earth to the 3pin plug on the Intravee, and I need to find a bus connection somewhere in the car for the 3rd pin of the 3pin plug. Question: where would I find a bus connection in the boot area, and how would I connect it up? Do I just connect it up with a piggy back connector? What issues might I encounter doing this on a 1998 E38? I've taken a few photos. The CD changer is the old sort, no ibus connection. As I found it, it's disconnected entirely and the Grom DSP converter is connected to the amp instead, via a co-ax cable. Near the amp there is a black plug disconnected, plus a disconnected co-ax line. Don't know what these would have been connected to prior to the Grom? Also, a blue plug is disconnected from the video unit. Don't know why? Cheers Drew
  5. Drew21

    Intravee install in a 1998 DSP car

    One last one. I put the mk4 nav back in, and it is functioning enough for the Intravee, though useless as a nav Field 0 is constantly changing between the Intravee text (song name, artist, or whatever I set it to be) and CD#, where # is a number, seems quite random. I can stop it this constant "flickering" by changing source to tape, radio and back to Intravee. Then it's stable until I use the rotary knob to select a menu option, when the issue starts again likely to be a loose connection, hardware, or firmware version? thanks again
  6. Drew21

    Intravee install in a 1998 DSP car

    Thanks Richard, a good reason to get it fixed then cheers
  7. Drew21

    Intravee install in a 1998 DSP car

    I am again amazed by the Intravee, I have wired it up by chopping the MG/ Rover connecter off a MG Rover adapter loom and wiring the 3 and6 pin plugs to power/earth/IBus and a 3.5mm jack respectively, and then the 3.5mm jack fits the Grom A/D converter and..... it all kicks into life. i know I shouldn't be amazed as I've used one before, but it's so eásy. Very impressed. one question, I can't get the advanced iPod search to work, only the standard and fast options work for me so far. My 98 car had a 4:3 screen and a mk2 nav from factory. It was upgraded to a 16:9 screen and a mk4 nav by a PO. The mk4 nav has since failed, so the original mk2 nav is fitted, with the 16:9 screen. Not sure if this is important. i think the Intravee is set to UI6 thanks drew
  8. Drew21

    Intravee install in a 1998 DSP car

    Hi again, what I thought was the radio, turns out to be just the amplifier. I found the radio, very very buried, in behind the amp and a load of wiring loom. Is there a more accessible IBus tap in point? I'm guessing not i found a perm live and a switched live (power to the antenna signal amp) on the amp, terminals 8 & 4 respectively, so it is just the IBus tap point. If it needs to be on the radio, I will dig it all out edit: I think both of the blue plugs (for nav and TV modules) have an IBus line, white and grey with yellow spots. My colour vision is sketchy, esp in the fading daylight. Will check again tomorrow thanks again
  9. Drew21

    Intravee install in a 1998 DSP car

    ....I was going to ask what an E26 was (showing my ignorance there), and then saw your sig photo. wowzers I sat in one at Munich Legends once.....
  10. Drew21

    Intravee install in a 1998 DSP car

    Hi Richard, thanks for chiming in with your good information, I was hoping you would I bought my intravee from the usual online auction site with an adaptor lead to connect it into a Rover/ MG system, so I have the plugs to connect to the IV2. I just need to chop the Rover/ MG end of the wires and connect the 3 and 6 pin plugs to the relevant bits of the E38's boot wiring. I've drawn up my plan of attack based on your pin info (thanks hugely for that, saved me hours of trawling through my Bentley wiring diagrams). The Grom A/D converter is currently connected up to the CDC wiring. From what you say, this is not ideal as the CDC has a permanent live. So I need to power the IV2 off the CDC wiring and power the D/A converter from pin 5 of the radio/amp unit. Question, is the Radio module you refer to the large black one behind the CD changer, with the cooling fins? Re the IBus connection, can I really just tee into the pin (7) of the Radio? I've done a bit of reading on I/K Bus and this all sounds fine, but it seems a very easy way to access the Bus systems. Almost too easy??!! Re the blue plugs, can I just be clear on what I need to do here. I should take the blue plug currently connected to the nav and plug that into the TV module. And take the blue plug currently not connected, and plug this into the nav unit? Apologies if this is a silly question, but I'm not clear what has been messed with previously or what this change will do to my set-up thanks again Drew connect intravee to Grom A-D converter and DSP Radio Amp.docx
  11. Drew21

    mk4 nav rebuild - recomendations please

    Thread Resurrection! the new laser pick up I ordered arrived today on the slow boat from China, I fitted it and I still have exactly the same symptoms the original mk2 nav unit is working fine in the car on standby duty though im guessing I really need to shell out on a new mk4 nav.... or just not bother and stick with the mk2 for now. I really need to get an intravee fitted, so I might park the nav and focus on how to fit an intravee into a 98 E38 with DSP, this needs some thought also you see
  12. Hi, I have a mk4 nav which is giving a constant "please wait" message on the screen. The disc, which is not an original BMW nav DVD (I assume it is a burnt copy), will not eject no matter how long I press the button. The disc spins constantly, except for a very brief pause every 2 mins or so after which it immediately spins back up again. I've had the lid off the unit and have tried to get the disc out using moderate "persuasion", but no joy and I fear more direct force will only damage the unit. I'm not keen on DIY for this repair and am looking for a recommendation in the UK (cheap and reliable please) for someone to take my mk4 nav and fix it, and supply an original BMW DVD (not brand new, an old set of maps is fine). Also, what are good mk4 nav software mods?
  13. Drew21

    mk4 nav rebuild - recomendations please

    Cotswolds just quoted me £156 for that part number, but then told me that it was for a later generation car: E60 , etc. Can I just check, before I order it, that this DVD laser unit is backwards compatible. My current laser unit is an "M3.5" unit. No worries at all if it's not clear, this whole thing is as clear as mud to me!! I think a later version of mk4 nav was fitted to E60 cars, not sure
  14. Drew21

    mk4 nav rebuild - recomendations please

    Cool thanks Barry, if you've got details for the OEM part that would be great. I'd rather spend 100 on a virtually certain repair than 14 on a maybe.... Will be speaking to Cotswolds tomorrow about a door seal anyway.
  15. Drew21

    mk4 nav rebuild - recomendations please

    I don't any way of changing just the laser without a soldering iron, as there's a big metal panel which is soldered down, and this needs to come off to get at the laser and its connections. would this do it? Might be unbranded rubbish, not sure https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-ORIGINAL-SF-HD4-CD-DVD-Lens-Optical-Pickups-Laser-1pc/282314481575?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  16. Drew21

    mk4 nav rebuild - recomendations please

    Hi all, I still haven't got this fixed, but having read a couple of DIYs I plan to buy a laser unit and get wizzy with my soldering iron, it doesn't sound too tricky and even if I wreck the unit the cost a replacement is not much more than the refurb cost. question is, which laser unit? I think the one I want is a SF-HD4 but there are options here, black or white cap, 's' or 'b' versions. for mk4 navs with DVD M5 or DVD M3 4.6 (I have no idea what that even means but I assume it's not E39 M5 or E46 M3 however!) price seems to vary between ~£10 (eBay Chinese generic) and £100 any help here is very welcome! cheers
  17. Drew21

    Rear Drivers side door locked

    Swap the actuator in from another door to see if it's the actuator or the wiring probs the actuator though...
  18. Drew21

    mk4 nav rebuild - recomendations please

    thanks for that did you replace the whole DVD unit, or replace the laser unit within the DVD unit? as regards software mods, I had heard that some caused issues, which is why I was wanting to go back to original BMW software. However if there are some useful mods that are "safe" then I'd be up for those. But I'm just not clued up on what the options are
  19. Drew21

    Intravee II into a 1998 E38 with DSP

    thanks Richard, that's good news. I'll spend some time this weekend checking out the wiring to the GROM then. The GROM sits in the front, above the glovebox, so nowhere near the DSP amp, and I have not noticed a DSP converter anywhere, but then again I have not looked in detail cheers Drew
  20. Hi all I have just bought myself a nice 1998 Alpina B12, into which a PO has fitted a GROM system wired into a retro-fitted 16:9 screen. The CD changer is still in the boot, but is not connected up. I would like to throw the GROM in the bin as is it rubbish, and replace with an Intravee II, as it is excellent and I used one in my previous 2002 Alpina B10 and was very pleased with it as an audio source and as a way to improve upon the car's factory settings.. Fitting the intravee into my old B10 was a doddle, as the 3-pin and 6-pin plugs transferred directly from the CD-changer to the Intravee.. However in the B12 I think it is going to be a lot more involved! I'm looking for help on this one.... My existing CD changer has a DIN plug (large black circular connector), a co-ax connector and a three pin connector (of which only two pins have wires. I have read elsewhere that my CD-changer, on a 1998 car, would not be connected on the I-Bus, which makes sense as there is no 3-pin connection. So: does my car even have I-Bus (or an earlier Bus system)? like M-Bus? (under the Alpina badges it's just a breathed on 1998 750i) how can I connect an intravee into the I-Bus system if there is no I-Bus connector at the CD-changer? Can I just find the three wires somewhere else in the car and tap into to them and route them to the Intravee's three pin plug? For the audio, as my car has DSP, so I assume I will need to get hold of the DICE DSP adapter to convert the Intravee audio output into a signal useful to the DSP amp. Is that it, or is there another potential issue out there?
  21. Drew21

    INPA - how to?

    Hi All, I'm back in the BMW saddle after selling my E39 a few years back. This time I'm back with an E38, which I know is not a 5 series car, but these forums are where I learnt everything I know (which is not a lot!) about INPA/ DIS/ Intravee and BMW electronics in general and, being a pre-facelift E38, I face the same issues as E34 users in getting INPA and DIS up and running for full diagnostic capability. I have an old windows XP laptop with a native serial port, which runs Jimmy's software. and I have one of Jimmy's OBD2 cables, with a USB connector. This set-up worked extremely well, once Jimmy had helped me get it all set up. Now I think I need a new cable. I've seen an ADS cable: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tiny-ADS-Interface-with-diagnostic-connector-for-BMW-INPA-DIS-EDIABAS/263272849709?hash=item3d4c48e12d:g:AHcAAMXQlUNRMgzX which I think is what I need (not cheap mind). What I'm looking for is someone who's done this before and knows how to set up INPA and DIS so as to work with this new cable. And someone who can tell me if this will actually work or not, I've done some reading around on this site and I need to check if pin 15 (in the round connector in the engine bay) is active, not sure what this means though. thanks all
  22. Drew21

    INPA - how to?

    cool, thanks for taking the time to reply. I'll give it a go and see what happens! I'm hoping there is a good way to hook up to INPA at least, invaluable back up for old school trouble-shooting, and for subtle issues which are difficult to track down I'll report back
  23. Hi All I have recently returned to BMW ownership after a few years away (for good behaviour?) I like to drive something a little bit different, so my previous BM was an E24 coupe and this time I’ve plumped for an Alpina B10 V8S. Not many miles to report as yet but a big trip to the Lakes and back is planned for this weekend. Anyway, I have bought a car with a few niggles. A couple of which I have sorted (CD changer not recognising CDs and an inactive rear wiper motor) but the lazy automatic tailgate (Touring tailgate, not a bootlid) is proving more of an issue. So far I have topped up the hydraulic fluid (which has improved things greatly) and lubed the hinges and pins (for the pistons). I appreciate the auto tailgate is not a common-place option on an E39 touring but I was hoping there would be some assistance/ experience I could tap into on this site before I take on the next step, which is to replace the pistons, as this sounds a right royal PITA of a job. So current symptoms are: tailgate closes fine on the button (tick), and it also opens fine so long as you help it with the initial opening upto about ¼ open (ie if I use the button on the tailgate handle I also need to lift the tailgate a short way before the auto opening function is happy to take over, if I use the keyfob or the footwell button then it unlocks, I can hear the pump, but unless I give some initial assistance, the tailgate remains unlocked but closed). So onto questions: My car has two pistons for the tailgate (plus another two for the glass plus the hydraulic ram piston). RealOEM informs me that E39 cars with the auto tailgate only have one piston for the tailgate. Is this right? Has someone added an extra piston? How to fix it, searching on this site I see a number of hardy enthusiasts have successfully replaced the piston(s) (applause), and lowered the roof/head lining to gain interior access. The TIS mentions a special BMW tool and no need for gaining interior access through the roof. Any insights on this welcome. I like an easy life but the interior is black so won't show the bloodstains. My car has two tailgate spoilers, one at roof level, and the other on the bottom lip of the tailgate. Given the extra weight of these, does anyone know if Alpina fitted stronger pistons to overcome the additional weight? Per RealOEM the pistons are specced as lifting 1600N (which is 163kg, or 25.5 stone). So two of these pistons can lift 4 normal sized blokes between them!!!
  24. I've seen a 530d touring that meets most of my checklist for a reasonable price. Having never owned a diesel car before, let alone BMW diesel I'm looking for some specific things to look for. It's a 2002 automatic car, with just over 140k, advertised at £3k from a dealer. It's relatively well spec'd, nav and electric memory seats. I would plan to remove the traffic master and retro-fit heated seats. An E39 with those many miles is not really an issue I think, and I will look out for rust on sills and near the tailgate opening (anywhere else?). I'm aware of the swirl-flaps and turbo as potential diesel specific issues. I'm guessing that checking for swirl flap deletion is not possible on a forecourt, and that the turbo is a case of checking the invoices for a recent replacement? For a turbo, is there an issue with any particular brand, or is there only one brand/ supplier? anything else to worry about? I'm looking for a cheap and reliable (and comfortable) family holiday car, as well as a daily commuter car. I confess I had been looking for a 530i, but read a magazine article which was very complimentary about the E39 530d as a used car option.
  25. Drew21

    looking at buying a 530d, what to look for?

    awesome link with a great debate, albeit brief and now I can't find it?! is there anyway to distinguish a duff turbo from a good one on a viewing and test drive?
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