Matthew Ashton

I drove my F11 SE on Runflats for 7 years and was always happy with the drive, still firm but I loved that car. I haven't driven an MSport on 19s. Do you know what services have been done and what was done at each service? It is never a good thing to run cars, especially diesels with old oil. BMW's official stance is 24000 miles or 2 years which ever comes first for an oil change. On a diesel it is recommended to replace the oil at least once a year. Helps with turbo longevity and performance as well as keeping the engine internals sweet. As above it is a difficult one to answer. The N57 engine is quite robust but oil cleanliness is a critical factor. I wouldn't worry about it so long as it gets assessed by BMW.

Warranty would be affected and not the service pack First Oil change (BMW's official schedule) at 24000 miles or 2 years whichever is first. Always advisable to do an intermediate oil change though. At 5 years they were worth it but at 3 years for the later service packs you need to be doing high mileage for them to be of value.

More bhp = more fuel to drive the engine is why I reference the power output and not because higher output is at all necessary.

So that will still have the N55 engine albeit with 315hp as opposed to 303 bhp in @535i Andrew's 535i . The 640i GT is B58 with 340 bhp.

Your truth It'll never happen, maybe down hill with a tailwind ??

I doubt I’ll ever see 40mpg. I did see 35mpg on the way to Reims but there was quite a lot of traffic and it was raining so didn’t exceed 110kph. But then you are talking N55 and no xDrive and a lighter car. Even BMW with the latest WLTP consumption rating reckon 33.2mpg as the best for my car. So they are now being conservative but far more in line with my reality.

What engine will that be?

Over 1700 miles to Switzerland and back fully loaded with skiing paraphernalia and 4 people it returned 32mpg. On a run to Bluewater in Kent 30 mile return it gave 25.6 mpg. I knew new it wouldn’t be great so I’m not shocked. So nice to drive though and it can be a beast off the line when needed

Just don't buy the one in the link if you drive an Fxx car. Those have M14 x 1.25 threaded wheel bolts.

Changing runflats for non-runflats has no impact on tyre pressure monitoring. The air in the tyre is the same on both and that's what's been monitored if you have TPMS (metal valve stem with electronics to measure actual pressure). If you buy a pre 2014 car they'll more than likely have RDC and the wheels will have black rubber valve stems and this relies on the abs system monitoring for wheel rotational speed differential to detect a tyre deflation.

2011 F10 cars will all have 7 digit post code search. Only the early 2010 ones have the 5 digits. Find the BMW’s VIN number and pop the last 7 digits into https://www.mdecoder.com/ to get the as-built specification for a specific car.

And then dries. I think there is too much “overthinking” a none issue with this one. These cars aren’t going to rust away as a result. The water evacuation from the scuttle panel is distributed across the under tray and on top of the wheel arch liner making its way out to the road.

But that then goes for any area in your car that gets wet through driving in adverse weather - wheel wells, engine bay, inside the doors. The undercarriage is probably one of the better corrosion proofed areas of the car.

I think you’ll find the water travels on top of the under tray as I mentioned. It isn’t a sealed unit and once dry I don’t see why it would attract corrosion. I checked the waterway when I did my investigation a few years ago and the water clearly drains on to the undertray so when the car is at an angle with the rear lower the water will run to the rear. Design at work.

We’re they genuine sensors? I have heard of pattern parts causing this issue for some. Check the sensors are seated properly and their connectors are clean then reset the brake service again. If the message reappears I’d get genuine sensors and try again.