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Jim_C

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About Jim_C

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  1. Sounds identical to my situation. When I bought the car, the old key (the one I can't get to work remotely) would switch the radio to Heart (WTF?) and move the seat when I put it into the ignition, so clearly it had some kind of comfort programming going on. Since getting the new key, it doesn't do this (I think BMW might have erased the comfort settings for all keys when they programmed my new one). I feel that there should be some way using NCS Expert to view the settings and/or activate the remote locking/unlocking on the fob (provided, of course that it isn't otherwise faulty), but I'm just not sure I'm up to the job without guidance (Jim's skills: nicht_aktiv).
  2. Update... The diamond key still works as before - the blade opens the door and starts the car, but triggers the alarm. No remote functions. I think the battery in the remote is fine. I've tried the "Key in ignition, switch to position 1 and back, remove key, press and hold..." routine many times - it's not working. I've now had a brief look at NCS Expert, but I haven't been able to find what I (think I) need. Is there anyone around with experience of how to find out if the remote on my key can be made to operate the central locking (and disarm the alarm)? I'd be super grateful for any advice on how to proceed...
  3. Jim_C

    Back box delete. How much?!

    Although it's not absolutely 100%, my bloke did a decent enough job of re-attaching the original tips and fitting a hanger in the appropriate place. Given that my back boxes were scrap anyway, it made no difference. If you were looking to keep the entire shebang you would, of course, have to find some new ones (adding to the cost).
  4. Jim_C

    Back box delete. How much?!

    The guy who did mine fitted the straight pipe onto the original exhaust using a sleeve and clamp so I could refit back boxes if I chose. I'm under no illusions about resale (ours was not a pricey example to start with!). "...a lot of messing around for no real gain" - Well, I would respectfully contend that this depends on your definition of gain! At £200+, I'd probably have decided against it, but for £60? Excellent value in my book.
  5. Jim_C

    Back box delete. How much?!

    How did you get on, miniblob? Sounds like you could do with a little more V8 noise! The Jag was OK - it was a 2000 MY and almost everything was worn, shabby and faulty, so exactly as we expected. We bought it for a specific purpose, which was to fit a straight pipe exhaust, paint fiery flames down the sides and amuse ourselves, whilst generating outrage among the string-back driving glove community. https://youtu.be/HpvgrJKcitI Mission accomplished.
  6. Does this actually work? I've seen a rather long video on the subject by a somewhat eccentric chap with a similar issue on a Ford Transit blue key. The jury appeared to be out... I've just invested in INPA software and cable, so hopefully that can rekindle the love between car and key. If I can work out how to use it...
  7. Well, I'm not sure if it's me or the key, but I can't get the refurbed one to work remotely. The blade still works to lock/unlock and start the car, but it still triggers the alarm and none of the buttons work. I've tried several versions of the synching ritual of turning the key and pressing buttons, to no avail...
  8. Sounds like you got a decent service, simufly. My keys arrived back today (I posted them on Monday, so that is rapid service). They arrived with a piece of paper explaining that they will need to be re-synched in order to work. So, I'll have a go when I'm less knackered.
  9. Jim_C

    Back box delete. How much?!

    Sounds like you won't be in the least intimidated by a bit of V8 noise! We had a 4-litre V8 S-Type with a switchable straight pipe that was fairly noticeable, so this is quite civilised for us too. As long as your back boxes are in better nick than ours and you have space, you may as well hang on to them. No idea what effect it'll have on resale though...
  10. Jim_C

    Back box delete. How much?!

    It turned out that the vacuum valve on mine was stuck open anyway, and the other box had blown along a seam. So, yours is very likely quieter than mine in standard form. That being the case, you might want to be a bit wary of going ahead with this mod until you've heard one close up - it is *plenty* loud enough! Some people might find it a bit overly enthusiastic. I knew what I wanted and was ready for the noise - I love it! I also have zero budget for a fancy exhaust, so it was this or stock for me. In fact, if I'd had to replace the blown back box, it would have seriously eaten up my funds!
  11. Jim_C

    Back box delete. How much?!

    Well, just picked the car up and, frankly, that's the best £60 I've ever spent on a mod! Before: https://youtu.be/5sq2Pa-HHPg After: https://youtu.be/ZzevB9LFwL0
  12. Jim_C

    How to turn off passenger airbag

    Thanks GoNz0. When you say "just" code it out, do you mean through iDrive? Or will I need some software/cable to achieve this? I looked for the relevant codes (I've got a Foxwell reader) and - to my surprise - I got a code 9aFF, rather than anything indicating an airbag-specific fault as in this thread: I checked the battery leads, but they all looked fine and fresh with no corrosion. Ironically, the light first came on just before the car went to Cotswold BMW for the earth strap recall. I've reset the fault, so time will tell if it comes back. I think we all know it will... Edited to add: I have no airbag de-activation key in the glovebox (despite what it says in my manual!), so not sure how to do this either.
  13. Jim_C

    How to turn off passenger airbag

    Excuse the thread resurrection and hijack, but I'm curious to know: - if you fit a seat occupancy mat emulator so the car thinks the passenger seat is constantly occupied by an adult, is this overridden by physically switching the airbag off with the key? I'm asking because of imminent grandchild arrival combined with airbag/seatbelt warning light I suppose the answer is that you wouldn't take the risk even if it was theoretically safe!
  14. As far as my research has gone, I believe that the key will still be programmed when the battery is replaced. A friend from another forum has bought a diagnostic kit from BCables, which I'm tempted to get for all the inevitable minor issues.
  15. I've sent the key (along with our similarly dead rechargeable blue Transit minibus key) to a seemingly reputable company in Lancashire, who promise to service, repair and replace faulty bits for £25/key. I'll report back once the keys return...
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