DarkHorse

"BONG" you'll get used to it ... over 4 years for me now...

I've had the same 2AEC error on my N53 since taking ownership in 2017. You might find my hopeful ramblings and theories mildly helpful in this "N53 Stratified lean burn mode(s) restored?" post, well the conclusion in the last paragraph anyway .

Long shot: Battery issue showing up due to loading/unloading with the doors/boot open for long periods? I hold the center light button for 5 seconds to disable interior lights and when the boot is open I fool the lock mechanism to turn the boot lights off. Maybe this have softened the battery to cause spurious errors. One good example when I would prefer low energy LEDs.

? FZINX92030CZ06323 ? F2ANX92030CZ06323 This is better: WBANK92030CZ06383

Good to know thanks. Yep, INPA is useful depending on the problem, not for everyone and is a learning journey, only one of many applications required for an E60 suite.

Yuk, where on the E61 is that, rear lines above the axle? Did you loose full braking or is there some redundancy built into the fluid circuits, split front/rear?

Yes, item 2 that carries item 5 is commonly known as the 'Rose' joint or some refer to it as the 'rear lower ball joint'. I had the same issue on the E39, when they start to squeak it makes the rear end sound like an old bed. To further confirm, you may also notice movement in that joint if you jack the wheel off the ground and push with your foot on the low part off the rim, the bottom of the wheel may move in/out 20mm or so. Will likely effect the rear tracking stability which may cause uneven rear tyre wear and contribute to the rear axle scating or breaking away when going around a roundabout. Was particularly noticeable when the road surface was bumpy or wet (as you'd expect traction to break more readily anyway). The bush in a tube (item 2) can be a beitch to remove, even with a puller tool (which is essential).

Maybe:

I've had RFTs on the rear axle and regular tyres on the front axle with no issues. Regular rubber is a noticeably more comfortable ride though ;). As the walls are softer, it effects the turn in sharpness a little when pushed pretty hard into the corners but for everyday driving it's fine. Had to invest in a space saver spare + accessories for the E60/E61, which is a specific size that is not the most common.

I have heard about poorly fitted oil filters and worn O-rings on the filter housing that can cause low oil pressure problems on the diesel lumps. Well, I recently learnt something new about the diesel motors that may be worth considering. Apparently: The High Pressure Fuel Pump can blow the axle seal and leak fuel into the sump via the timing chain cover.

On other motors I've had less dramatic spring damage, leaving the car still able to drive. Yes I was surprised to see quite a few E60/E61 broken spring threads on here. Not had a failure yet but can do without such a show stopper and time waste. Good luck.

Not sure if replacing the resistor will resolve the squeaking noise from the fan motor, need some second opinions.

I'd check for a leaky or wet joint on the engine bay fuel rails. Or maybe fuel has pooled somewhere whilst the work was carried out but that should soon evaporate.

Maybe a leaky injector but doesn't rough idle on a normal stop/start cycle, only on the specific 1 minute cold stop/start scenario that I highlighted. Hey, glad you got a good result and fix. How did they diagnose the damaged valves, compression tests or endoscope into the spark plug holes or removed the inlet manifold? A bit unusual for the N53. What was the final bill?

Probably unrelated but a notable engine behaviour observation. I had to move and repark my N53 the other day (engine ran for less than a minute) and a day later on the next engine start, it struggled to idle and ran really rough for the first 10 seconds, then ran fine after that. Not the first time I've noticed this behaviour, plus my previous M54 BMW petrol engine also used to have the same residual petrol flooding problem with such brief cold start/stop cycles.