DarkHorse

It looks alright though, hey! View it extensively a couple of times, scan the codes after a drive, beat the price down a bit and get a Gold plated long warranty. Then it could be fun for a while .

My E61 has 4x 18" (style 135) 8.5j on 245\40\r18 tyres. You have to take the wheel off and read the hub face. Fronts Goodyear Asymetric5 regular mellow ride tyres (see the Quiet Tyres thread), Rears are Firestone FireHawk Runflats (suits the air suspension).

I reckon that'd buff out . WTF happend? ...half the wheel is missing.

Check that the oil light goes out within a second. Not sure about the N52 but the N53 DME has been known to hold a longer crank to build oil pressure before starting up. If low oil pressure is a possible suspect then consider checking the oil filter ring insert has been fitted correctly.

I got bored monitoring fleebay and now have: £135 BMW E60/E61 Spare Space Saver Wheel 135/80/r17 inch +Jack (unworn tread) and £9 wheel brace with 17/19mm flip socket, extends up to 500mm. I will soon be using the info in this E61 Spare Wheel Boot Liner Modification thread. Further info in the Spare Wheel Options thread and Spare wheel Space Saver Problem thread. Edit: I took the boot liner out, cut out the rear bumper wall section with shears and flattened the remaining nobbly bits (at 8/12/3 o'clock) with a hammer onto a wooden block. Fits quite tight, wheel face down, tyre at 20psi. Wrapped the jack in polystyrene packing sheet. Done! .

Hmm, interesting work around, thanks.

Hi n welcome to the forum. "Bong"... get used to it, best thing is that it costs nothing .

Seems a bit steep to me. Probably find cheaper than my quick search: Clutch Pedal 35316761034 ~$50 Clutch Pedal Pin 35306761029 ~£10 Or I'd try to fabricate/repair what's already there. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=NK72-EUR-10-2007-E61N-BMW-530i&diagId=35_0288

Apparently it's ../F5/F2/F6 for MWB6 (basic parameters of engine).

States OBD2, yes I would expect it to work but a bit pricy and likely to be a bit fiddly and small. Can't find any video to see the refresh/update speed. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=323888106885&category=174069&pm=1&ds=0&t=1566198133000&ver=0

You could get a cheap HUD unit via the ODBII port:

Watching this thread to see what you discover. Doesn't look easy to me though...

Check the High Pressure Fuel pump? INPA should indicate ~200bar. Not sure what else to check though? Here's mine at idle last year: Railduck(rail pressure) 199082 hPa (199 bar)

Not sure. The Rattle may be the Dual Mass Fly Wheel or clutch plate rattling around or maybe the rubber centre of the crank pulley is failing, which you might see wobbling around at the front of the engine. If you jab the throttle from idle you may hear a nackerd DMF knock as it slops around up n down the rev. If a continuous rattle goes away or changes when you press the clutch then normally that is thrust bearing assembly related.

N53 Oil consumption resolver? Significant difference using 5w-40 Short version: In this case, with these brands, the current estimate has the oil consumption rate cut to 1/3 by using Castrol Magnetec 5w-40 C3 (1L/6000+ miles est.) instead of Castrol Edge 5w-30 Titanium (1L/2200 miles). As a result, I am now thinking for good reason that the 5w-40 grade fully synthetic oil is probably better suited to a hotter lean burn older petrol engine, which makes a significant difference in this particular case. When suggesting a thicker oil, various independent mechanics have often said to me: "Your wasting your time, it'll make no difference, it's your stem seals mate, see it all the time...". Good to know different though, hey. Long waffle version: I got the car with a new oil and filter at ~120,000 miles (April 2017). As I don't trust anybody when it comes to anything associated with a financial value, I took a photo of before and after the oil filter housing which indicated that the oil change work had actually been done. I tried to find out what the traders 3rd party mechanic used and was told it was 'probably' 5w-30 fully synthetic, brand unknown. Consumption was 1L/~3000 miles of mostly mixed urban commuting whilst topping up with Castrol Edge 5w-30 (titanium). I logged the mileage with each i-Drive low oil add 1L warning (as there's no dipstick on the N53 engine). Then after 7000 miles changed oil and filter again when I had front discs and pads done etc. That Indy only used Shell Helux 5w-30 (verbally), so was lumbered and went with that. Consumption noticably fell to 1L/2200 miles, again topping up with Castrol Edge 5w-30 (titanium). After a time and adding another 4L the consumption rose steadily to 1L/1200 miles (6000 miles later, then at ~133,000 miles). I felt that oil consumption might have been greater on motorway trips sat at ~3k RPM but can not be sure of this. After seeing this video/post on 5w-30 oil stability and possible evaporation characteristics, I bought 8 Litres of Castrol Magnetec 5w-40 C3 (delivered for £45) and had another Indy garage replace with 6.6L of oil and a new filter (when I had the new clutch fitted). Observing 5 green square bars at max on the iDrive. After 2000 miles of regular iDrive oil level checking, it has just dropped the first bar today from 5 square bars to 4. I will report back and update the consumption here for the next additional 4000 miles and when the first 1L top up request occurs. My early conclusion is leaning strongly toward the drop in oil consumption being reduced significantly for a couple of reasons (my possible theories, not all fact). - The '40' number effects the viscosity, stability and volitity at higher operating temperatures (https://www.zoniv.com/5w30-vs-5w40/). Likely leaving a little less oil left stuck on the bores and burnt in the cylinders. "The number “40” implies that it differentiates from the most common motor oil (30) among the cars, as it is denser, and this ensures more profound engine lubrication during hot temperatures. This oil is most often used in case of higher mileage vehicles as it is thicker than the 30 oil, so will provide better lubrication for the working parts inside the motor that have been wear-off as a consequence of aging or strain." - The other factor as mentioned in the video, is that the '40' number is more stable at higher temps and in an N53 petrol the engine runs quite hot, even the coolant gets up to 110C/230F (oil temps would be higher?). I think the 5w-30, whilst thinner, it could also be evaporating, being more readily able to vapourise into small droplets (maybe foaming) that far too easily gets sucked into the inlet manifold passing the CCV (or the CCV is slightly defective). Then getting burnt off in the cylinders, plus with the N53 being Direct Injection, with that quantity of missing oil, some will probably be nicely fried n stuck to the back of the inlet valves . Now the engine is ever so slightly quieter with slightly thicker viscous 5w-40 oil. This may come at the cost of very slight increase in internal engine drag but the consumption trade off is totaly worth it (in my case). I don't expect the slight deviation away from the recommended grade oil with have any dramatic ill effects (unless anyone has other ideas?), the only disadvantage going forward is that most places tend to stock drums of 5w-30 oil, which is annoying to keep having to purchase my desired oil specially for each service. Oh well.