DarkHorse

Yes, E61 was N53 from late 2007 in Eurpeaon markets and E61 shape stopped in 2010, so probably a Jap import or some other right hand drive origin.

Before you get a replacement gearbox, try posting a short video with audio demonstrating the problem (indicating clutch position) whilst roaming the camera/phone around under each door sill / wheel arch, this would give us a better clue to diagnose. > ... rumbling/rattle ... Long shot, maybe the exhaust, heat shielding, mounts or covers are interfearing from the clutch action, though I've never had this on a BMW. In neutral it maybe the gearbox layshaft worn bearings and rattling, how does the noise respond to raising the motor RPM? I have only heard worn Dual Mass Flywheels clunking when jabbing the throttle from idle, as the disc slops around back n forth as the rpm rises and falls. Noisy thrust bearings normally tinckle/rumble until you press the clutch pedal down. Clutch yoke arms can annoyingly squeek at the ball pivot pressing the clutch pedal down and releasing.

All the best, you'll be back... Na I don't know, never owned or been in one yet.

Welcome to the forum. To get more useful responses, try posting a link to this post in a new thread within the E60 forum (named: E61 Front shock replacement question?). https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/forum/65-e60e61-2004-2010/

Yeah, my sensors are busted also. Take climate control out of auto mode. Run the AC manually only when you need it and dial temperatures as required. A/C is only occasionaly needed in the UK so not a big deal for me. Once A/C is switched on, leave on until 300m from destination, then switch off and open a window to dump any resulting humid air outside otherwise the wet air can dangerously mist up the windscreen during a journey. Also, when its a hot sunny day, as I walk toward the car, press and hold the unlock button on the fob to fully open all the windows and vent most of the very hot air before you get in .

For a simple 1st step cheap low hassle upgrade to the basic factory setup, then I'd recommend the addition of front door 4ohm 1 inch tweeters with a supporting high pass crossover (>3.5 kHz) and a mid pass crossover (> 600 Hz) being the simplest and best bang for buck. Adding the crossovers should reduce some power wastage by not sending the mid/hi frequencies to the under floor subs (or waste power driving low frequency bass into the front door mids), which slightly improves the overall output and clarity from the factory iDrive outputs. ~£50 and a few hours fiddling, that only requires removal of the front door cards (with air bags) for installation and wiring of the tweeters and crossovers. Sure, it won't be perfect but then you can evaluate the results and weigh up the cost and hassel of any further upgrading. Edit: Assuming the front door mids are not burnt out and burbling.

Not had any noticable issues with this E61 530i 2007 yet. The problem I used to notice on the E39 was that depending on the angle of the nozzle and the speed of the petrol delivery, the fuel could rebound off the filler pipe and foam up, if this interfears with the nozzle delivery it will look like a full tank has occured and cut off the flow. To prevent foaming I would have to conssiously squeese the pump trigger slowly, once flowing without foaming then all was fine. Maybe you are encountering a similar situation.

> I believe i have 2 front, 2 rear and 1 in the dash. You probably have the basic system, first one listed here https://musicarnw.com/start-here-your-car/ (which is reflected in the E60 also). See links to background info in the thread of my experience: E61 Touring - Optimal boot sub(s) location. That makes more sence to my observations now, as the front/rear fader mostly shifts the high pass audio. So in stock form, (left and right fronts consist of) a 4ohm sub and a 4ohm door mid both wired in parallel on the front channel (and the iDrive is effectively 2ohm stable). No wonder the OEM basic system sounds pretty muddy and flat (without tweeters or mid/woofer crossovers). Plus who knows what other iDrive audio magic is being applied , moe fo's. 

Being ~£11k in so far, I'd be inclined to fix it (add another 15%) and drive it to destruction, get your moneis worth out of it .

Hi, Sorry to see you are still having this problem. I'm not aware of any way diesel can get into the oil without passing the piston rings in the combustion chamber, as the fuel system is greatly isolated from the engine oil. > ...seals in pump letting in diesel ... The fuel pump is electric and not related to the mechanical oil pump in the engine. Though, I have never owned a diesel motor. Edit: Corrected, well I've not heard before but apparently the High Pressure Fuel Pump can blow the axel seal and leak fuel into the sump via the timing chain cover. Interesting.

You might want to edit the first post in the thread, re edit the title to something related to 'Oil level too highand keeps rising...'. Assuming you have edit post capability on your account permissions (yet).

That can be caused by leaky injectors, over fueling, filling up the sump with diesel.

Reset tyre pressures and driving round the block on a lovely sunny evening. Approaching an oncoming LR Discovery that managed to hit a pigeon which was violently detonated into a huge ball of feathers , got lobbed up into the air across into my lane, which bounced off my front end. Hmm, pulled over to find the passenger fog light pushed in and the plastic mountings broken. Grr! Something else to fix... Edit: Confirmed, unable to mount the fog light unit. Pi$$ about removing the plastic covers and working on the ground. Eventually cable tied the light in place as the holes could be looped through... temporary fix, so there's another 'one day' job for the list .

FYI: this thread named Can I replace MULF with MULF2?

Good shout indeed, as there was a VO missmatch . I managed to follow the steps but had trouble with the profile selection, different spellings and couldn't drive any of them as required. Eventually got the "Expertenmodus (Werkseinstellung)" profile to perform the jobs. Confirmed with a read back .TRC file form the LMA and all the options are now set the same as the options in the source .MAN file. The differences were a couple of options that exist only in the new module (as it was newly flashed last week in WinKFP) that are not present in the old 2008 settings file read from the original failing LMA module. Job done! I hope all that time with the ignition on hasn't stressed anything else on the old car. ISTA-D reported that the battery (AGM new last October) dropped from 80% to 55% from todays 1 hour session alone. On charge again. I suppose I could have left the engine idling with the alternator taking the load but depending on the wind direction, my neighbours might not have been too happy, especially for the amount of time I was messing about last week.