DarkHorse

In the past I have noticed that thrust bearings tend to rattle (at idle) until you load them up by pushing the clutch peddle down to separate the clutch plate. A biting point noise sounds like friction plate rivets are exposed but then you should notice clutch slip. Try punching the power and slightly slipping the clutch at motorway speeds, to see how long it takes before the slipping stops, if the clutch is badly worn then the revs will likely just climb out (depending on engine power). On a previous 5 series I've had the yoke clutch arm lever squeak when pushing the clutch peddle down, normally after long dry spells of whether, sometimes attempted a roughly targeted WD40 under the car at the yoke ball would reduce squeaking for a while. From what you describe, if the clutch isn't slipping then maybe you have something else tinkling around like an exhaust heat shield or something activated as the drive train torques up and the engine slightly tilts. Maybe investigate further. Edit: Other ideas, worn Dual Mass Flywheel mechanism issues (spring assembly) or damaged engine/gearbox mount. Or maybe like mentioned, the thrust bearing moaning.

Ah right, I'd misses that thread, thanks. Here's the link to that E61 N54 twin turbo conversion project by "M88rt j"

> Do you think manuals are less desirable than autos on these? ... I agree and thought a manual was a better choice for me, in 2017 the manuals seemed to be less desirable (harder to sell) but that may be changing as they are pretty rare with a 3.0i. The 330i (N52/N53) and 335i i6 cylinder touring platforms are often preferred with manual setups, perceived to be more nimble but I don't think there is that much in it for an E60 i6 petrol configuration. Too bad the E60 never had the manual 35i i6 twin turbo option over here.

Yes it does seem a bit pricey for a 14 year old estate. I noticed there are another 2 other similar examples (Jap imports) of E61 530i @~£11k with low sub 60k mileage on the Atrader site. Maybe the desirable spec, ULEZ compliance, being quite rare, plus being a bit hopeful could pay off. Still happy with the E61, although being a manual with 140k miles it's probably worth half that money. Sadly, most every motor ends up at near scrap value when I'm finished .

As for prices, the second hand car market generally is ~20% up in 2021, where there is less stock available due to Covid/Brexit effects on new car supply chain issues. Even with the ULEZ restrictions costing diesel platforms, the prices still seem to be holding higher at the moment, with less choice (to my observations in the more desirable 3.0L E60\E61 range anyway). Glad to hear you are able to take some time purchasing, as currently on ATrader in the UK there are only ~11 adverts for Saloon E60 M-sport diesel manual LCI motors (under £5.5k asking) and half of those are black/blue, 8 are 4cyl 2.0L and that's before you get into filtering out options and lunar mileage. Nothing really jumps out at the moment, a bad time of year noted and would expect more supply going into spring/summer. It will be interesting to see what you settle on . E60 LCI 520d M Sport 4d (07) manual box = 1510 kg E60 LCI 530d M Sport 4d (07) manual box = 1580 kg 70 kg, so that's like carrying a small adult on the front axle. "Beneath the all-new body was a host of new technology and an innovative body-chassis structure, which blended steel and aluminum to keep weight to a minimum. The heavier materials were kept towards the center of the car, which resulted in a lower polar moment of inertia, helping to improve the handling." (some E60 background info from this thread).

Try this recent thread and links, might be useful:

Cool, good info on initial requirements and wish list. Here's some subjective quick fire opinions, others may have a different perspective. I had a quick look and there aren't that many to choose from at the moment, it may take a while to find 'the right one' for the job. I'm not familiar with the F10s, only that they are heavier, partly as BMW dropped the various E60/E61 aluminum panels (due to cost and repair). > Hers must-have > 1. Bus style seating position (almost flat seat base), a comfortable seat with as many adjustment options as possible > 4. As high a seating position as possible You would need to try a few and see if the regular sport seats are adequate (basic electric but do have the longer leg thy extension support, which is not standard in the SE models). The comfort memory seats are less common yet a much desirable option. > 2. Dual-zone climate for hers and his comfort levels A pretty common option. > 3. As much as possible wafty and comfortable ride An SE suspension on 17" tall wall tyres would be the softest setup. Regular 18" wheels and tyres with a tall wall profile are a softer ride than the factory RunFlats, which are known for the more crashy harsh ride, slightly more so with M-Sport suspension. Then you'll need to acquire the awkward sized space saver spare in the boot etc. > His must-have > 1. As sporty and as light as possible :c) > 2. Good balance and steer If the suspension is tight and geometry is setup then they should all feel pretty good. The 530i is the lighter power to weight lump but they have other considerations. > 3. Manual, diesel. (don't care so much about a 6 cylinder, happy with either the M47 or N47, both are pokey enough for a family wagon when mapped) Definitely get a smoother 6 cylinder 3.0L option, you'll thank yourself later! A 3.0L 525d/530d (LCI from March 57 plate 2007-2010) would be a good stable compromise for your requirements and still only the one turbo to worry about. Note that a Manual box in a diesel tends to give the Dual Mass Flywheel a harder time due to the higher torque output (than a petrol). You may hear the DMF clunk back/forth when dabbing the throttle from idle (then that's probably another £1k). It is often said that an Auto is better suited to the shorter rev range of the diesel setups. Though I have not much real world experience with an Auto or a diesel );. > 4. Decent enough condition paint and electrics (the mechanicals will need doing on anything leggy, including chains even on the M47/M57 engines. Done enough research to see their condition past 150K+ miles, so will be budgeting to have this done for anything I intend to keep) Hopefully pick up a 120k example from someone who has receipts for doing some of the work already. With these motors, you should budget for a spare laptop and software to diagnose, code and maintain. Can be quite fiddly and time consuming even with the right software and knowledge, though saves a lot in the long run of ownership. Depends how far you can stretch those mates rates );. > 5. Reasonable condition Interior, I prefer the darker colours ... Most are black anyway. > 6. Projectors and or Xenons I live with the much cheaper halogens but many demand the better options. > 7. As cheap to run as possible... 525d maybe ;). Some claim pretty good MPG figures, depends what sort of remap you are planning. Not sure if the gearing of an Auto setup (taller?) favors fuel economy, over a manual box on a run? > 8. M-sport... Might as well get an LCI built M-sport then, updating an SE isn't worth the hassle, lots of little astetic differences. > Nice to have but not a deal-breaker > 1. I-drive with NAV Common but quite dated. You can get updated DVD maps. The CCC destination input is painfully clunky, beyond that it is usable. The wider CCC screen preferred. > 2. Cruise Standard kit (I believe). > 3. Leather Very common option. Cloth is quite rare and often not easy to sell. I'd prefer split leather or very rare alcantara/suede myself but not likely to find any. > 4. Heated seats Pretty common option in the front seats, rare in the back seats. > 5. Black or darker colour interior Most common colour, often with silver trims. > 6. 18" wheels with square setup. (The MV2's with 245 rubber seem pretty cheap to replace with non-ditch-finder rubber at £100ish per corner) Good compromise for handling, price and comfort on regular tyres. > 7. LCI car with the CIC setup would be nice. Normally come with the older CCC, which is ok in the wider screen versions. Wouldn't let it break a deal though. Some swap out for other options, needs research and planning. Note that the common factory audio setup is a poor uninspiring one and not that easy or cheap to improve. > 8. Any colour other than black. ... Understandable. The range of silvers and gun metals are nice, normally with black interiors. Where silver paint hides the dirt much better than the carbon black (dark blue in sunlight). Hopefully more opinions will be posted soon... Good new year hunting n haggling .

Hi n welcome to the forum . So you want a 6cyl diesel auto? Normally quite a few of them to choose from, though prices of most used cars have held up recently. Required for cruising or tuning, M-sport or SE, LCI facelift post March 2007, colour combo preference, budget range? For full options list, dig through the BMW Docs "BMW Fast Facts April 2008.pdf" pages 145 to 172 (provided by Horsey's "BMW Documentation" forum pinned thread). Nice pics of your other BMW ;).

Went on a bit of a trivial journey but here it is: Hmm... thought I'd note down the injector calibration values and then check with some old INPA screen shots. Injector values for 3 and 4 have been mixed up. I double checked my injector image data and confirmed. Maybe someone was diagnosing a problem and swapped the injectors but forgot to update the coding. Obviously the fuel trims have been able to compensate for all these years but it's an interesting discovery. Bank1 -> Cyl1: Injector index 07 - 57.2 / 2.00 Bank1 -> Cyl2: Injector index 07 - 57.1 / 2.29 Bank1 -> Cyl3: Injector index 01 - 57.4 / 2.37 Bank2 -> Cyl4: Injector index 08 - 58.7 / 2.17 Bank2 -> Cyl5: Injector index 01 - 58.3 / 2.42 Bank2 -> Cyl6: Injector index 09 - 58.6 / 2.37 Then I found this info: So nothing much to worry about really.

Hi n welcome to the forum . Is the clutch not properly disengaging the flywheel, is it stiff to get through the gates and do the gears crunch? Ah, one idea that occurred to me. If the thrust bearing/mechanism is sticky then that may be torquing up the drive train, making selection more difficult (would expect to be worse selecting with the engine running than not). Might be the selector bushings are worn if it feels 'short' to engage 1st/reverse, may be able to jump out of gear if too short/close. Any more clues?

Good to know we're all roughly on the same page for this current N53 diagnosis . > Was #5, or any of the plugs for that matter, wet? No, unfortunately I left it quite a few days cold before taking the plugs out, I could smell fuel slightly on a couple but none were wet, so inconclusive as yet. > Perhaps replace those index 01 with 11's. Yes, trying to locate a pair of 11s at a fair price, for now it looks like I might be able to get one used index 07 for ~£90. New index 11s at ~£350 each! (not helped by Brexit/pandemic either). Will keep looking, probably in the new year if I can make it last until then. >Any nox codes? Only the persistent NOX related error code on my N53 since taking ownership in 2017 (screen shot of the other persistent errors here): 0x2AEC Stickoxidsensor Eigendiagnose - translates to "Nitric oxide sensor self-diagnosis" (meaning that the Nitrogen Oxide Sensor is Contaminated). I'm not bothering to chase 100% fuel economy functionality for a low mileage user of a 14yr old estate motor. The fuel computer when the mpg is reset can display 47mpg on the flat for a few miles but in reality on a run can achieve 39mpg, more often easily 35mpg M4/M5 (on V-Power). It is often said that "Plugs and coil problems tend to show up under load and high RPM conditions. Fuel injectors tend to show up during cold starts and while idling". Update: Good news, a short term win hopefully so far and bought some time. I installed the new NGK plugs, cleaned up Cyl3 coil boot, then changed my mind and decided to replace Cyl1 and Cyl4 with the new coil packs. The motor fired straight up as usual but for the first few seconds the first low rev throttle poke was very lack luster, then all was ok. Went for a 10 mile trip at all speeds and once warmed up, started nailing the throttle, looking for any sign of misfire or hick-up. Glad to say it seemed restored, fine and responsive. At some convenient point I will check the codes and examine the condition of the Cyl5 spark plug again, expecting it to be either wet with fuel and/or carbon black coated (leaky injector). Then using INPA to try and check the flow rates and adaptation screens (../F5/F7 https://bimmerprofs.com/msd87-rough-run-menu/ ) now that I understand that the data is presented in firing order and not by cylinder number . See what leads on from the information I have at that point... Thanks. Update2: Still running fine, no misfires or codes after a few more trips a week later. The INPA software 'rough running' telemetry all looks ok (../F5/F7 https://bimmerprofs.com/msd87-rough-run-menu/ ). A second hand injector (index 11) turned up, which I need to swap with Cyl5 to verify that it works and check Cyl5 spark plug colour (maybe I'll find the time over the next couple of weeks).

Wow, I had some surprises today . Going to need some suggestions and theories based on the observations and evidence so far. i6 Firing order is 1/5/3/6/2/4 Bank1 -> Cyl1: Injector index 07 - Misfires code 29CD (glad it's only the one cylinder logging) Dec 2021. Bank1 -> Cyl2: Injector index 07 Bank1 -> Cyl3: Injector index 01 - Some oil contamination on coil boot. Bank2 -> Cyl4: Injector index 08 Bank2 -> Cyl5: Injector index 01 - Black plug, carbon deposits due to over fueling, rich mixture burn. Bank2 -> Cyl6: Injector index 09 What year are these injector indexes? Coils are dated Sept 2012 (9yrs ago, mileage covered since then ~75k). 143k miles, car always starts fine, very occasionally get 5 seconds of mild rough cold start idle, normally after short start/stop the previous day (re-parking, move car on/off the drive etc.). Until the current misfire/EML brief episode whilst driving round town last week, there have be no noticeable engine problems for the past 23k miles /4.8 years. Tip1: I took the images of the injectors in the engine with a mirror and a torch overhead, then flipped the images around to reveal the text. Tip2: Tie some nylon string around the socket tool joint, makes it easier to pull out the socket tool from the spark plug, otherwise it is stuck quite firmly in the engine due to the rubber grip insert ;). N53 diagnostic reference information: https://bimmerprofs.com/misfire-counters/ https://bimmerprofs.com/problems-injectors-misfires/ 4 Common Problems with the N53 Engine: https://bmwtuning.co/n53-engine-problems/ Firstly, which 2 coil packs would you replace with the 2 new ones I have? Secondly, will I likely have to replace the injector in Cylinder 5 based on the plug condition or is it black because other cylinders/sensors are malfunctioning? My initial plan is to replace with new spark plugs. Then replace Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 5 with new coil packs. Drive around and see what codes re-appear or if there are still any misfires persisting under load (punching out in 2nd from low rev range 2k, manual box) . After a few trips, whip out the cylinder 5 spark plug and check it's condition. Assuming the misfire goes away but the cylinder 5 plug goes black, what are the other options to consider? Check flow rates in INPA (if I can decode the German text)? Anything in ISTA-D that could help? Edit: Alternative scenario based on bimmerProfs site info. The Cylinder 5 injector is over fueling in Bank 2 which causes Cylinder 4 and Cylinder 6 to lean out to compensate that bank, this leads to Cylinder 4 too lean misfire, which is preceding in firing order to Cylinder 1 ( 1/5/3/6/2/4 ), the DME then miss reports as a misfire in next to fire Cylinder 1 (instead of Cylinder 4). Follow me, possibly?

Yes lets hope so ;). The coils came in at £20 each delivered and just £9.5 for each plug (Amazon.co.uk) but I am on the look out for any suspicious clones that seem to be about. Plan to swap in 2 coils and carry one good used spare in the boot, so that if another one fails, at least I will be able to get home easily (from a longer trip) and then change the rest later. Never seen the injector indexes yet, hopefully I'll get a visual on them soon. Or maybe take a closer look if rendered in the software (INPA or ISTA-D), though I've not noticed. Would be nice to know. Also occasionally experience a very minor stutter once in a while ~70mph, say after about 10 mins getting out of the city and a couple of miles later. Seems like either trying to get into Stratified mode too early (power drops slightly and bails out quickly) or like you suspect, just purging the NOx particles with a hot mixture burn off.

Yes measured 20A current inline from the DI brown when linked through to the hinge bolt (grounding), because my brown is broken in the harness at the hinge flex point. Since your thick brown appears to be grounding out then it sounds like you may have another issue :(. Maybe don't cut the brown, just strip a bit of insulation off and link out, to check the current etc.