Steve van hool

I think Insurance companies work on the basis that most folk are just too busy with their every day lives, work, family etc, to be arsed looking up online or telephoning for a cheaper quote, to save say £50, but 15 minutes spent online or on the phone saving £50 is the equivalent of an hourly rate of £200 per hour, so definitely worth doing, sometimes a much bigger saving is realised, the biggest culprit is having automatic renewal on your policy, get some online quotes say 3 weeks before your renewal, then you know where you are when your renewal quote comes through, you can then use the cheaper online quotes as leverage to get your renewal lowered, as I did.

Yes, probably the best example being Arch de Triumph in Paris, you give way to traffic coming onto the Arch, bizarrely it actually works, even at rush hour.

Good advice, don't rise to a challenge, let it slide, and live to fight another day.

Hoping it's not a HG issue, according to the history it had a dealer fit replacement block, probably due to the nickersil issue, at 38,000 miles, now on 145,000, given the age and value of the car, a HG would write it off, would be a shame as it is good in all other respects, had it since 2008, and so I know what has, and hasn't been done to it for a good while. How would you go about a block test, is that testing for combustion gases in the coolent? I should try the simple stuff first of course.

Just enjoy driving the M5 while you still can before we all go electric in 15 years time.

This was also what led to a high idle on mine, when I had a 520i, led to believe it's a fairly common failure.

The fact that it goes into the red, then comes out again, as though there is a big airpocket going around the cooling system, or the water pump working intermittently, unlikely, if the radiator was goosed then it would stay overheated, rather than come back down to dead centre again on the temp gauge, carn't help but think its something to do with the car heater coolent circuit.

I open the bleed screw on the thermostat housing, with the engine running, I replaced the pump a fair while ago, after bleeding it, it's ok for a few days, before it starts acting up again.

1996, 528i, a bit of a strange one, the car when the heaters are activated overheats! Not continuously, but for about 2 minutes the temperature needle will go into the red, top coolent hose red hot, bottom hose cool, like there is a massive air lock, after about 2 mins, the temp gauge will settle for dead centre, only to go through the whole process again a short while later, its as if there is a massive air lock somewhere. Obviously if air can get in somewhere then coolent will be able to get out, I would have thought. Yes, I have tried bleeding the system several time, and the coolent is quite airreated, any ideas where to go with this one.

What, you mean like a Scaletrix, why not go the whole hog, and put a continuous slot in the motorway for your full sized Scaletrix car.

OE engine management stuff will either be Siemens/VDO, or Bosch, depending on the year of your car.

6k is F10 territory.

He avoided the topic all together when questioned by a reporter today at the science museum. IIRC