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bart1webb

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About bart1webb

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    Bristol
  1. bart1webb

    Capacitor Jump Starters

    Thank you for the replies. It would appear I am indeed looking for a lithium ion jump starter, rather than the capacitor type. The CCA is circa 900 I believe. I will have a read through the attached thread with interest.
  2. bart1webb

    Capacitor Jump Starters

    Hi all, I am considering purchasing a capacitor jump starter (rather than the more traditional larger battery pack types) and am after peoples recommendations. I would like to be able to store in the boot for emergency situations, and would require something with enough starting power to use on a 4.9 litre V8. Has anybody got any suggestions for a suitable product please?
  3. bart1webb

    E39 M5 door / wing mirror glass replacement

    Thanks for all of the replies. That is a big cost just for the glass! Especially for something which can often easily get knocked like a mirror! (mine has become milky which I understand is due to the failure / leak of the internal liquid, rather than completely damaged.)
  4. bart1webb

    E39 M5 door / wing mirror glass replacement

    Thank you for your replies. Is different glass required depending on whether the mirrors fold electrically?
  5. Hi All, Where would be the best place to source new glass for the nearside door mirror of an e39 m5? The mirrors are a different shape from the majority of e39's, and I believe they are also heated and possibly have a dimming function as well. Is this an item which is better to be bought from a dealer, or are there other stockists which are a good fit and meet the criteria above? Many thanks in advance!
  6. bart1webb

    bmw scrap yards bristol

    Maro BMW Spares are a good place for spare parts. Very reasonable prices and a good service.
  7. I can only agree with the above. I contacted Tom following the recommendations on this forum for some X5 parts. The prices were very fair and Tom knew his stuff (eg - regarding a slight change in a part design partway through production) Very professional and prompt service.
  8. I had a similar problem in which the key would not turn and the steering lock would not release periodically, and then would not release all together. As I could not turn the key, I could not remove the ignition barrel. I then had to remove the steering lock housing, which required the removal of the steering wheel and associated trim. A post by Raymond had some very helpful photographs and explanations. After removing the steering lock assembly, it was clear to see that the locking mechanism had snapped. I replaced this with a new steering lock and housing (although the locking mechanism could have just been removed - meaning I had no steering lock - but a cheaper repair.) However, I could not easily remove the barrel from the housing, despite following the many guides and being confident I was doing it correctly. I had to cut down the original steering lock housing to remove the barrel.
  9. bart1webb

    any one who can respray in the south west

    I have previously used Gerry Trudgian, who is based at Kingston Seymour (07977 194 739, gerrytrudgian@gmail.com). Reasonably priced and a real perfectionist.
  10. I have now removed the ignition barrel housing, to reveal that the internal parts of the steering lock have snapped. Grahamr123: Thank you for the advice. After removing the assembly I can see how drilling would release the steering lock. The problem I now have is that I cannot remove the ignition barrel from the housing! I have seen various guides and images both on this forum and other websites so I know how the barrel has to come out, but I just cannot seem to remove it!
  11. How did you get on with this? I am in a similar position with my steering lock stuck on - so I cannot start or move the car! Any advice/ tips will be appreciated!
  12. Last year I removed the sill covers to find extensive rust to the rear jacking points, which was not visible with the covers on. If the car had been raised using the jacking point, I am sure the jack would have gone straight through. I had this fixed by a local welder. I would reccomend regularly removing the sill covers to clean out any build up of dirt which could hold moisture and to check for rust. To do this the rear arch liners also had to be removed, which was fairly straight forward. Before putting the liners back in, I cleaned up the inside of the arches, and put some waxoyl on there, to hopefully slow down the rust what was there and prevent any further rust. I also sprayed the arch liner with trim protector, to give a silicone coating to hopefuly repel any dirt etc which could accellerate the rust. I have also had some rust form on the brake lines.
  13. bart1webb

    DSC, ABS and brake light on

    I seem to remember having a similar problem on the X5, I think it came on after a flat battery. There were lots of possible causes when I researched the problem. Luckily, it sorted itself out when I turned the wheel from lock to lock a few times.
  14. bart1webb

    Funny number plates (and the X5M)

    I saw S7 1VES on a Range Rover in St Ives, Cornwall. I wonder if Lee540 has seen this one?
  15. As above. A few of the plastic expanding rivet type fixings broke as I tried to remove them, and some of the bolts were heavily rusted. Replacements were cheap enough. The wheel arc liners were surprisingly easy to fit and replace also. On replacement of the wheel arch liners, I cleaned them down, and when dry sprayed both sides with back to black trim protector - to hopefully stop a quick build up of dust and dirt.
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