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Raymond

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Everything posted by Raymond

  1. This is a guide on how I fitted electric memory seats to my 1997 E39 Touring that came with standard cloth manual non heated seats. First of all a big thank you to: Rob (rob-the-viking) Toni (Clavurion) Flow (Flow124) German E39 forum I have fitted the electric memory seats WITH sleep power cut-off to the memory seat which is as OEM factory fitted apart from the switched ignition on F5 which I have used F19 for. Lately I have received numerous PM's and emails from people that want to install memory seats so I thought I do a little write-up. Apart from tools you'll need the following: 1. E39 5-Series 2. A set of memory seats 3. Drivers door wiring loom from a car with memory seats. 4. K72 relay P/N: 61.35-8 365 960 5. Four blade fuse holders 6. Memory switch pack This is the K72 relay: It has 5 contacts that need to be connected: 2. Ground/earth 4. Output to memory seat via fuse 13 5. Input from GMIII (Pin 19 on X254) 6. 50A +ve feed. 80A on post Sept 1998 8. IGN feed (fuse 19) Drivers door loom with memory switch pack connector: Chopped this out of a broken E39 for the blade fuse holders: Memory switch pack: First install the drivers door loom and the memory switch in the drivers door. White connector is for the memory switch and the yellow one for chromatic mirror (if present) Note the P-bus wire (thinnest of the two) as you need to trace it back into the car and find it behind the bonnet release handle passing the LKM/LCM. You'll need access to the rear and side of the fusebox above the glovebox, main fusebox below the drivers seat, earth points below drivers seat and passenger seat and lastly the relays behind the steering EWS. After a few hours it'll look like this... nice.. I'll start off with the passenger seat as it only needs two wires connecting and it's closest to the fusebox. +ve and -ve. If you have heated seats already then you only need +ve. You'll need to add the +ve to slot number 6 and -ve to slot number 1 in the seat connector. The -ve wire is relatively short as the earth points are under the passenger seat All cables are routed through the plastic cage in the sill. -ve to the earth point and +ve to fuse holder number 10 as per factory install. Solder the +ve wire to the fuse holder, retract the plastic retainer in the fusebox and slot the wire in position F10. It's key to remove as much as possible around the fusebox so you can spin it round. These holders go in easily but do not come out. The input to F10 is already live so only the output wire to the seat is needed. That's the passenger seat done. Next up is the drivers seat. The drivers seat only needs three wires. +ve, -ve and the P-bus wire. You'll need to add the +ve to slot number 6 and -ve to slot number 1 and the P-bus wire to number 4 in the seat connector. The P-bus wire needs to be connected to the P-bus you've traced back in the footwell discussed above. Solder it on rather than crimping so you can always de-solder it and revert the install. Connect the -ve to the earth point under the drivers seat and from the second earth point run a cable to pin 2 on the K72. Open up the fusebox and run a wire from the 50A spare fuse to pin 6 on the K72. Lastly, run the +ve from the seat all the way to F13 output in the fusebox (glovebox). Now the easy part is over it's time to wire the K72 relay up You'll need to pull three lenghts of wire from the fusebox (glovebox) to the K72. I wanted it like a OEM install so routed them with the main loom near the front windscreen. This is where you'll spent wasting most time Wires ready to be connected up: The K72 needs an ignition feed which we will take from F19 as that's already fed from IGN and goes to pin 8 on the K72. It also forwards the power coming into pin 6 to pin 4 so from pin 4 it's need a wire to F13 input (top) Now there's only one wire left which needs to be connected to the GMIII in order to send a sleep signal to pin 5 on the K72. The wire needs to be connected to pin 19 on the X254 connector (black 20-pin) to the GMIII. Now all five wires are where the K72 is going to live it's just a matter of connecting them up I'm sourcing an OEM relay seat but for the time being the yellow spade connectors will do Put the car back together and stick a 30A fuse in F10 and 13 and a 5A fuse in F19, connect the battery and code the SA function to the car with NCS Expert. Rob is an expert in this btw This install will roughly take 14 hours without coding. Maybe it can be done a little quicker but I had to take this carkit out and put it back in. All you need to do now is walk to your fridge, get a couple of beers out and be proud of your achievement
  2. This is a guide on how I fitted an electric memory steering column to my 1997 E39 Touring. Note that you will need to have electric memory seats in place before this will work. Electric memory seat retrofit guide here Big thanks again to: Rob (rob-the-viking) Toni (Clavurion) The steering column uses memory the same way as the seat does so the power needs to be cut off when the car goes to sleep. The following bits are needed: 1. E39 5-Series 2. Memory seats installed and coded 3. Control stalk for inclination and adjustment * 4. Wiring and connectors * There are two different stalks. One for the pre facelift E39 and one for the facelift E39. The only difference is the body that clicks into the column. The wiring is the same though. 1. Facelift stalk 2. Pre facelift stalk The first thing to install is the electric steering column. It’s much bigger and heavier than the tiny manual column that came out. Time to take the manual column out to make some space for the electric column. There are three bolts holding the column in. (electric one has four) The two front allen bolts are very accessible but the one in the back is just above the shaft and for some weird reason it’s a sheer bolt. Ta Mr. BMW You can just make it out in the middle of the picture. Column ready to go in Column in and ignition housing fitted. The column I installed came of a facelift M5 so the ignition housing was different in terms of separate slip ring and no hole in the back for the auto box cable. It’s all interchangeable so any column would do. Now comes the part that takes some time. The wiring. Nowhere near as bad as the seats as there’s only five wires coming from the stalk and three of each motor. Both motors need a +ve, a -ve and a signal wire. The signal wires both come from the driver seat. The +ve is taken from fuse 13 that is fed through the K72 relay when you fitted the seats. The -ve is taken from a -ve point on the body just under the accelerator pedal. Now that there’s power to the motors, the stalk and signal wires need wiring in. The two signal wires go pin 22 and 23 in the driver seat control box. Black to 22 and black/blue trace to 23. Then there are only five wires left and all come from the stalk. The brown wire which goes the earth point under the accelerator pedal and the other four wires go to pin 9, 10, 11 and 12 in the driver seat control box. 9. Brown/Black 10. Brown/White 11. Brown/Blue 12. Brown/Red Plugs are on for both motors and the stalk. The two signal wires and the four control wires need route through a connector here. Had to park my car under my tub marquis as it was pissing it down all day and the garage was occupied The end is in sight..... Run some wires from the control box to the connector under the seat and put your car back together. There is a space for the connector to the stalk already which makes life easier. The stalk just clicks in place and all is done. The full install takes about four and a half hours but is well worth it. More stalks the better Rob popped round to drop this off for me on the day too... Very nice! Time for a pint
  3. Evening kids, Setting up an end of summer meet in Rother Valley Country Park late August/Early September. We've had a few good meets there and it's a nice place with a pub on-site which is a pro. Just gauging interest and that. Just stick your name on the list below. (Copy and paste the list, not the whole thread) 01 Raymond 02
  4. Raymond

    Rother Valley meet 2018

    Haha. The big Red Cross covers both your E46 and my 93 as they're not fivers. Think the fivers should park out of the way this time as there's probably more none fivers this time.
  5. Raymond

    Rother Valley meet 2018

    Don't be silly...
  6. Raymond

    Rother Valley meet 2018

    E39 Club is there Sept 2nd so should have a few more cars turn up. A fair few on there are members here so should see some familiar faces.
  7. Raymond

    Rother Valley meet 2018

    Excelent Fred. Not it sure about the weather. I'm sat on a beach in fuerteventura at the moment but heard the weather ain't great back home.
  8. This is a guide on how to add Lumbar Support to your existing seats. First of all a massive thank you to Trisman who gave me the lumbar bits free of charge! Following bits are needed: 2 x Electric or manual adjusted seats 2 x Diverter valve 2 x Lumbar support bladder (inflatable pad) 2 x Lumbar support Air pump 2 x Wiring loom 2 x 4-way switch 1 x Pack of plasters This is where the switch is going to live. It has a blanking plate that can be removed rather than cutting a marked hole like the E53 and E46. First remove the seat side trim by removing two torx screws. (green arrows) One in front and one hidden where the seat base meets the backrest. Also remove the three plastic poppers. (red arrows) With the trim off you can remove the blanking plate and the cable guide by pressing the tabs arrowed. The pump comes in a bag and is cable tied to the bar and lives where the green rectangle is. From there there's a tube going to the diverter valve in the backrest and a feed from the loom. This is where the power feed and air supply to the diverter valve runs. Take the back of the back rest by either pulling it from the bottom or undo two torx screws at the bottom. Some seats have screws some clips. The green square is where the lumbar support bladder is going to be installed and the red one is where the diverter valve will be. Slide the mat between the foam and the springs. Kids tools to press the foam down come in handy here.... Once the mat is in you need to slide the diverter valve over the clip (red arrow) and secure with a torx screw (green arrow. All installed. The wiring loom just needs a +ve and -ve so they need to be tapped in at the junction points. Whoohoo, an extra button...... Ignore the mucky car. It'll get a wash over the weekend.
  9. Raymond

    Rother Valley meet 2018

    I know but when you say might, it means no. When you say highly likely it means no. When you say definitely it still means no. Last time you turned up it was in you Rectum van at Lady Bower....
  10. Raymond

    Rother Valley meet 2018

    That's highly unlikely and you know it....
  11. Raymond

    Help Centre Air Vent Replacement

    Top Toni does it again!
  12. Why buy something good if you can have this plastered in chrome tack turd.
  13. Bargain for a 14 year old car with rocket mileage.
  14. That's why it's not there no more... 37 bids...
  15. Postimg has changed from .org to .cc. Invision has a workaround to automatically change from .org to .cc and it has been implemented on many forums so expect this to work on here soon also. In the mean time, you can click on a picture and change the URL from .org. to .cc I have spent hours on end to port all my pictures from photobucket to postimg and I simply do not have the time to do this all again sorry.
  16. Raymond

    What's this button for?

    Have you actually pressed the button whilst in reverse? It just turns off the rear PDC.
  17. Raymond

    What's this button for?

    It's to turn off the rear PDC. In case you have a bike rack or trailer fitted.
  18. Raymond

    BMW 318ti Compact - Retro daily

    Nice looking thing. Nice colour too.
  19. Lovely example of a sierra/mondeo either way. On my wanted list now....
  20. Raymond

    New E39 owner to the forum

    Who the bloody hell is jay??
  21. Raymond

    Castrol Edge cheap in Tesco

    It'll not make it to the border if you're in control you drunken bum....
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