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///M5

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  1. Thanks
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rav_77 in Buying E12 HELP - UK   
    That is not the car for you. It is unlikely to be an M535i. It does not have the recaro seats and the digital clock from the pictures.
    The amount of rust means that unless it becomes a labour of love and you learn all the skills necessary to repair it then it will consume more money than it is worth. A lot of body parts are not available and any that are are very expensive.
    The rust you can see is only the tip of the iceberg. There is more rust that you cannot see.
     
    Even if you were to do it then it would most likely become one of the many unfinished projects on the internet.
    The question to ask is why has it not been sold? In my experience any thing that is rare and good value is snapped up quickly. The seller is telling you it is special. If that is the case then others would be very interested and yet he is selling  for a £1000 and has had no takers ( that would raise a red flag for me)
     
    If you were to break the car then you may make more than you pay,  but you will have a car outside your house for a long time selling a bit at a time. That is generally not popular with the neighbours. Have a look at what parts people want for older cars. Some parts are desirable and others you will have for a long time.
     
    The best route with an old BMW is to buy a car that someone has spent time and money on. You can then enjoy the car immediately  and learn as you go.
  2. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Taffy 1 in What fuel should we buy for the e28 now?   
    From personal experience, you need fuel hoses suitable for ethanol. When they first put ethanol in petrol, the older hoses would deteriorate very fast. It is not suitable for cars not being used. I have found that it destroys fuel pumps. Because it absorbs moisture it corrodes the metal of the tank and fuel pump parts. I fitted a couple of pumps to a car not being used. It became normal to try to start the car and it would not, problem no fuel delivery. Some fuel pumps are not rated for ethanol.
    With leaded petrol I left an Alfa Romeo Alfetta outside in a car park for a year and with the battery charged it fired up first time. If there was ethanol then it is possible that there would have been notcar there a year later.
  3. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Taffy 1 in What fuel should we buy for the e28 now?   
    From personal experience, you need fuel hoses suitable for ethanol. When they first put ethanol in petrol, the older hoses would deteriorate very fast. It is not suitable for cars not being used. I have found that it destroys fuel pumps. Because it absorbs moisture it corrodes the metal of the tank and fuel pump parts. I fitted a couple of pumps to a car not being used. It became normal to try to start the car and it would not, problem no fuel delivery. Some fuel pumps are not rated for ethanol.
    With leaded petrol I left an Alfa Romeo Alfetta outside in a car park for a year and with the battery charged it fired up first time. If there was ethanol then it is possible that there would have been notcar there a year later.
  4. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Keliuss in Failed dogbone links - warning aka pitman arms   
    The reason I asked the question is that recently I looked at that diagram when looking for specs for the e34 M5 rear axle. I thought that people looking at it could easily assume that the washers fitted above the "dogbone"
    Then I saw your thread and you had made that assumption. The line drawing is misleading. If you look at it you will see a line going through from the bolt to the trailing arm. This sequence is correct. The other bolt does not have a line. The washer goes above the crossmember and then the nut as in a conventional attachment.
    I predate the "dogbone". Early BMW's semi trailing arm suspension did not have it.
    The problem with semi trailing arm is that when the wheel is raised up on cornering there is a change in track width, camber increases and the wheel can "toe out". This made the cars tail happy as the tendency of the wheel to go straight on in a corner so classic over steer.
    The solution BMW had to tame this in the early eighties was the track link or pitman arm or "dogbone". It limits the pivot axis and reduces the effects of toe out on cornering. I would have read about it in the likes of Auto Car or Motor Magazine. (No internet then )
    From your other thread you seem to want to install the parts as BMW intended. The way that your car and the earlier 5,6 and 7 left the factory was with the washer fitted between the "dogbone" and the boss on the trailing arm. The other washer goes above the crossmember and then the nut.
    https://www.exx.se/maintenance/dogbones/index.shtml
    This guy has some pictures showing the correct layout.
     
    If you look at the image from the BMW etk the layout is also incorrect. If you google BMW e28 dogbone replacement you will see that some people followed the etk and put the washers underneath as in the diagram.
    There is also the idea of fitting them the right way up. The later parts like yours have a "flat" side and a tapered side. The original part did not have that. There is very little in any workshop manuals about it. 
     
    To tighten the bolts put the car in what BMW describe as normal position. From memory that is 
    68kg on each front seat 
    68kg in the centre of the rear seat
    20kg in the boot
    and a full tank of fuel 
    So if you are not doing that then you are not doing it correctly. (Pay a dealer and see if they do it!!)
    .
     

  5. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Keliuss in Replacing Rear Subframe Bushes   
    Removing the bush is the more difficult part. The ebay tool does not look suitable for removal. The Sealey tool has two lugs that fit into the gap of the bush and allow it to be removed. If the cross-member  is removed it is easier to remove and install. For the lubricant you want some thing that evaporates. Soapy water is the original lubricant that will evaporate in time. The gap can come from using a lubricant that is there for too long and the bush moves down causing the gap.
  6. Thanks
    ///M5 got a reaction from Taffy 1 in Steering boxes   
    What I have noticed is that with the BMW models is that as the cars age and a new model comes out the cars decline in value and there are lots of secondhand parts for little money. Then as time goes on they get scarce and more expensive. The cost of the front struts for an abs e28 made me look at the e34 front struts and adapt a pair to go in an e28, but they are probably expensive now.
    If your car has a large case differential (210) then the internals of the e34 210 differential will fit so if parts are available they will probably increase in value over time as less parts are available.
  7. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Taffy 1 in 528i, missing, poor running, won't rev/idle   
    Just to put here for you is the pump should deliver a minimum of 2.2 litres a minute at 2.5-3.5 bar pressure. I should have put it up when talking about testing the fuel flow. You should fill a 5 litre container in just over two minutes. If it can achieve that then you have no problems.
  8. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Taffy 1 in 528i, missing, poor running, won't rev/idle   
    Just to put here for you is the pump should deliver a minimum of 2.2 litres a minute at 2.5-3.5 bar pressure. I should have put it up when talking about testing the fuel flow. You should fill a 5 litre container in just over two minutes. If it can achieve that then you have no problems.
  9. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rich28 in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    That is the way to do it. Restoring an E28, rusty bits on the car, I can cut them out and replace. "Oh garage not big enough". I will just build an other one. Good luck with the build.
  10. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from dirtydirtydiesel in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    Dirtydirtydiesel off the topic but the e21 323i for as you know for anybody who has never driven one they were dangerous/ great fun. You needed to keep the side windows clean, because you could be looking out of them at any time.
    When you start the father son project it has to be an e21 (maybe not 323i) and put it on here.
  11. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Ordnator in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    Hi dirtydirtydiesel
    I agree with you with regard to Rich28 and his project.  Remarkable achievements. There is an old saying "if you want something done ask a busy person". I think he is a good example of this.
    When I first started working on cars there was no internet and knowledge was power so people would often not give it away easily so I appreciate where you came from.
    From your car list, learned to drive in a mini at 17 first BMW an e21 at 21
  12. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Ordnator in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    Hi dirtydirtydiesel
    I agree with you with regard to Rich28 and his project.  Remarkable achievements. There is an old saying "if you want something done ask a busy person". I think he is a good example of this.
    When I first started working on cars there was no internet and knowledge was power so people would often not give it away easily so I appreciate where you came from.
    From your car list, learned to drive in a mini at 17 first BMW an e21 at 21
  13. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Keliuss in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    Here are a couple of photos of the process I mentioned. I took a template of an e28 driver door top and made this piece to show what I mentioned. The puckering is necessary where the  metal curves. The excess metal is then hammered flat with a hide faced hammer onto the insert of metal and finally the slight curve was formed. you can then remove the thin metal insert.
    The area in the last photo shows the area of extra metal. You can file this smoother as the metal is thicker at that point.





  14. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Keliuss in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    Here are a couple of photos of the process I mentioned. I took a template of an e28 driver door top and made this piece to show what I mentioned. The puckering is necessary where the  metal curves. The excess metal is then hammered flat with a hide faced hammer onto the insert of metal and finally the slight curve was formed. you can then remove the thin metal insert.
    The area in the last photo shows the area of extra metal. You can file this smoother as the metal is thicker at that point.





  15. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Keliuss in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    Here are a couple of photos of the process I mentioned. I took a template of an e28 driver door top and made this piece to show what I mentioned. The puckering is necessary where the  metal curves. The excess metal is then hammered flat with a hide faced hammer onto the insert of metal and finally the slight curve was formed. you can then remove the thin metal insert.
    The area in the last photo shows the area of extra metal. You can file this smoother as the metal is thicker at that point.





  16. Thanks
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rich28 in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    With that piece if you mark the curve on a flat piece then mark another line with a parallel curve for the flange then using a pliers you slowly follow the inner line slowly bending over with the tip of the pliers on the line. You can also use clamp to the edge of a bench and use a small chisel on the line and slowly hit with a hammer to tip the edge over. Your bead roller can do it with a tipping die. Slowly bend it over and place a thin piece of metal (1.2mm) and flatten onto it. You can then curve the complete section. Curving it gently to the correct profile.
    To check if it needs to shrinking make a card template and see if there is any puckering on the card. If there is then it needs to be shrunk in the area of the puckering. 
    From the photo the top part may need a slight shrinking. Using the method of folding  with a thin nose pliers will create a series of puckers on the curve. Hammering on a dolly with a hide or plastic hammer will tend to shrink the metal. When it is beaten flat on the insert of metal then slowly bend to the correct profile. When it is correct remove the metal strip and it should be like the original.
  17. Thanks
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rich28 in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    When you are repairing the door I would suggest that you tack the all the  pieces in place and then put the seal on and fit the door to check the lines and that the door seal sits correctly especially at that top corner. If the seal is incorrect the door may be difficult to close or may leak. Any mistakes can be fixed by undoing the tacks rather than cutting out the sections again.
    Using reference marks on the door helps. If you mark a point back from an edge at say 100mm then when the new piece goes in it must be 100mm from your mark. A number of marks helps to position accurately.
  18. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rich28 in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    You can buy the rubber covers separately. Just do a search for ball joint cover/boot. The quality from most will be poor as the original is a heavy duty rubber. I have got CV joint boots before that I never used as you could rip them with your hand. 
    If you find a good one put it up here for future reference.
  19. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rich28 in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    You need more tools. Air tools are less bulky than ones with motors. I have a small belt sander and a small grinder with roloc discs. The discs can be as small as 25mm For very small areas a dremel grinding disc can get in tight corners.
    When you are doing the repairs you will start to look at them from the point of how to weld and grind and to make them easier.
     
    The pictures are from the internet. Other brands are available.


  20. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rich28 in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    You need more tools. Air tools are less bulky than ones with motors. I have a small belt sander and a small grinder with roloc discs. The discs can be as small as 25mm For very small areas a dremel grinding disc can get in tight corners.
    When you are doing the repairs you will start to look at them from the point of how to weld and grind and to make them easier.
     
    The pictures are from the internet. Other brands are available.


  21. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Ordnator in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    I was just looking to see if that panel was still available. It may be from a main dealer. Part numbers 41 11 1 900 695 lhs and 41 11 1 900 696 rhs. This is from an e12 that I did. Taking of the panel was needed to remake the areas in the zinc primer. Sometimes taking the panel of is necessary to do repairs. Once done new panel was spot welded in.
    By the look of that repair you have nothing to worry about.


  22. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Ordnator in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    I was just looking to see if that panel was still available. It may be from a main dealer. Part numbers 41 11 1 900 695 lhs and 41 11 1 900 696 rhs. This is from an e12 that I did. Taking of the panel was needed to remake the areas in the zinc primer. Sometimes taking the panel of is necessary to do repairs. Once done new panel was spot welded in.
    By the look of that repair you have nothing to worry about.


  23. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rich28 in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    Another nice repair. You can probably see why the previous repairs were done as they were. The time required to do it as you have done is so much higher. If you were doing it for an mot then all you need is steel patched over the existing and then lots of filler to cover. You would have paid a lot of money for a worse job. When it is all covered by shiny paint you cannot tell the difference.
  24. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Rich28 in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    Another nice repair. You can probably see why the previous repairs were done as they were. The time required to do it as you have done is so much higher. If you were doing it for an mot then all you need is steel patched over the existing and then lots of filler to cover. You would have paid a lot of money for a worse job. When it is all covered by shiny paint you cannot tell the difference.
  25. Like
    ///M5 got a reaction from Ordnator in Bmw e28 progress pics   
    BMW do a number of blind plugs for holes in the bodywork. There are two that might fit. One is  13.5mm and the other is 15mm . You could measure to check.
    They may not be the same as original.
     
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