Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Everything posted by ///M5

  1. ///M5

    M5 plenum, help needed

    Removing the plenum with the intake trumpets is the easiest way to remove and install. Leaving the jubilee clips loose makes it easier to align the trumpets on the studs if they have been disturbed. You can do it any way that you want but that is the way I found was the easiest.
  2. ///M5

    What fuel should we buy for the e28 now?

    From personal experience, you need fuel hoses suitable for ethanol. When they first put ethanol in petrol, the older hoses would deteriorate very fast. It is not suitable for cars not being used. I have found that it destroys fuel pumps. Because it absorbs moisture it corrodes the metal of the tank and fuel pump parts. I fitted a couple of pumps to a car not being used. It became normal to try to start the car and it would not, problem no fuel delivery. Some fuel pumps are not rated for ethanol. With leaded petrol I left an Alfa Romeo Alfetta outside in a car park for a year and with the battery charged it fired up first time. If there was ethanol then it is possible that there would have been notcar there a year later.
  3. ///M5

    OMG i fixed the air blower not worked ever

    That is a lovely new motor! Here are a couple of pictures to illustrate the problem of the old motors. When they make noise it can be because the the bearing is seized on the shaft. The whole unit then rotates as the bearing housing is lightly held by the clamp. When it is seized the noise starts, lubrication helps quiet the noise but needs to be done regularly. You can see the wear on the bearing housing in the photo. To fix it you have to take the motor apart to separate the bearing and shaft. The clearance between the shaft and bearing is very tight and even by having the motor out and using gravity to oil it the bearing can still be stuck to the shaft. I you look at the photo the "fingers" are all that is holding the bearing housing from rotating.
  4. ///M5

    Failed dogbone links - warning aka pitman arms

    The reason I asked the question is that recently I looked at that diagram when looking for specs for the e34 M5 rear axle. I thought that people looking at it could easily assume that the washers fitted above the "dogbone" Then I saw your thread and you had made that assumption. The line drawing is misleading. If you look at it you will see a line going through from the bolt to the trailing arm. This sequence is correct. The other bolt does not have a line. The washer goes above the crossmember and then the nut as in a conventional attachment. I predate the "dogbone". Early BMW's semi trailing arm suspension did not have it. The problem with semi trailing arm is that when the wheel is raised up on cornering there is a change in track width, camber increases and the wheel can "toe out". This made the cars tail happy as the tendency of the wheel to go straight on in a corner so classic over steer. The solution BMW had to tame this in the early eighties was the track link or pitman arm or "dogbone". It limits the pivot axis and reduces the effects of toe out on cornering. I would have read about it in the likes of Auto Car or Motor Magazine. (No internet then ) From your other thread you seem to want to install the parts as BMW intended. The way that your car and the earlier 5,6 and 7 left the factory was with the washer fitted between the "dogbone" and the boss on the trailing arm. The other washer goes above the crossmember and then the nut. https://www.exx.se/maintenance/dogbones/index.shtml This guy has some pictures showing the correct layout. If you look at the image from the BMW etk the layout is also incorrect. If you google BMW e28 dogbone replacement you will see that some people followed the etk and put the washers underneath as in the diagram. There is also the idea of fitting them the right way up. The later parts like yours have a "flat" side and a tapered side. The original part did not have that. There is very little in any workshop manuals about it. To tighten the bolts put the car in what BMW describe as normal position. From memory that is 68kg on each front seat 68kg in the centre of the rear seat 20kg in the boot and a full tank of fuel So if you are not doing that then you are not doing it correctly. (Pay a dealer and see if they do it!!) .
  5. ///M5

    Failed dogbone links - warning aka pitman arms

    Can I ask where you put the washers on the "dogbones" and how you tightened up the bolts. Both of these are important to correct fitting.
  6. What do you have for the manual conversion? Do you have pictures of the parts you have? I have done a manual conversion of an auto and could not get a brake pedal but found a solution. Pictures of your parts may help.
  7. ///M5

    Replacing Rear Subframe Bushes

    Removing the bush is the more difficult part. The ebay tool does not look suitable for removal. The Sealey tool has two lugs that fit into the gap of the bush and allow it to be removed. If the cross-member is removed it is easier to remove and install. For the lubricant you want some thing that evaporates. Soapy water is the original lubricant that will evaporate in time. The gap can come from using a lubricant that is there for too long and the bush moves down causing the gap.
  8. ///M5

    Replacing Rear Subframe Bushes

    The bush should be inserted all the way. They can sometimes move down when the cross member is tightened up hence the gap. Make sure that the area around the bolt on the body is clean and the aluminium from the old bush is removed. The corrosion can cause the top of the bush to not seat fully and the result is the gap.
  9. ///M5

    1986 528i improvement

    You can just get the 3.64 crown wheel and pinion and rebuild your differential with the new ratio. The other option is to fit your Lsd into a 3.64 open differential. Cheapest would be buy a 3.64 Lsd differential and sell your own for the same as you pay for the 3.64.
  10. ///M5

    1976 E12 Windshield instalation

    The way they were done was to put cord into the inner lip seal and cross over for a short section at the bottom. Someone inside pulls the cord which allows the seal to fold over the lip. Another person pushing on the glass from the outside. The trim is inserted after with a tool that the trim fits through, pulling the tool expands the rubber allowing the trim to seat. It expands the rubber to form the seal. The front screen large trim is inserted first then the screen is fitted, followed by the smaller trim. Fit the bottom of the screen first, especially the front as the large trim fitted makes it a little harder. It can be achieved other ways but this is how it was done when all cars had rubber surrounds. It is also what was in the BMW manual. https://magmatools.en.made-in-china.com/product/MefxBktKZZAo/China-Windscreen-Installation-Kit-MG50787-.html I have this set, I have made tools before, but this has all you need.
  11. ///M5

    New bloke with E12 M535i

    That looks great, do not put them on the car they will only get dirty. The plating looks good. They never looked like that new. They used to use cadmium plating which had a green in it. I had some items plated when it was still used and on larger items the green is more visible. I have plated items using the yellow passivate and on larger items there is a green hue in the yellow/gold. That colour seems very even and is probably more popular.
  12. ///M5

    New bloke with E12 M535i

    The Deox C is a good product. I find the solution is great just mix with water and leave the part in until all rust is removed.And it does remove all the rust The gel does the same job but is harder where there are vertical surfaces where it is hard to keep the required depth of coverage. If that is all the rust you have to deal with you are doing well. With the Hydrate 80 or similar they only convert the top layer of rust. I have used it and then removed it mechanically to find the rust still there. I think doing it as you have done should last a long time.
  13. ///M5

    Cat STOLEN

    As above. In chemistry a catalyst is something that can cause or speed up a reaction, and is not consumed in the reaction. If I had only realised they were worth money years ago when I had access to cars being scrapped. It was only when I saw a documentary about the precious metals in everyday materials and the people who collect them. Phones, computers etc. They were making money from peoples waste.
  14. ///M5

    Steering boxes

    What I have noticed is that with the BMW models is that as the cars age and a new model comes out the cars decline in value and there are lots of secondhand parts for little money. Then as time goes on they get scarce and more expensive. The cost of the front struts for an abs e28 made me look at the e34 front struts and adapt a pair to go in an e28, but they are probably expensive now. If your car has a large case differential (210) then the internals of the e34 210 differential will fit so if parts are available they will probably increase in value over time as less parts are available.
  15. ///M5

    New bloke with E12 M535i

    So my memory is okay. I doubted my self and had a quick look at the start of the thread and some one mentioned a black M535i and then the grey cloth made me doubt myself. It shows how memories change with time and small details are misremembered. The butcher was what I came up with, actually a fishmonger. The invoice I remember the figures I would be curious about. The interior I thought was beige but I knew it was a light colour. The name also seems familiar. It was his own company and he mentioned the cost of the car because it was an expensive car at the time. If possible you should see if he is still around. The one thing that was easy to remember was that he had great pride in his car. Glad the cloth is correct, I have made the mistake of buying parts and years later finding they are incorrect. My car is like a 5000 piece jig saw. I have the box but there are no pieces in the box and I have to find the pieces before I do anything.
  16. ///M5

    New bloke with E12 M535i

    I am wrong about your car. Had a look at the pictures of the seat material on the thread. The car I am describing had beige cloth seats and was a dark grey colour so I think it is a different car that I was talking about. The picture from the initial posts looked so similar that I thought it was that car. Hope that the one I described is getting some love.
  17. ///M5

    Steering boxes

    If you look at your hose fittings to picture them side by side on the top of the box, they are quite close on the e34 box but the banjo bolts are the same size on both boxes. The layout on the e28 and e34 are very similar. I have mocked up an e34 subframe steering and suspension to an e28. I cannot remember the hoses though.
  18. ///M5

    New bloke with E12 M535i

    Maybe it is down to what was available at the time. Is it one short or one to many. I think the first owner of your car was the man I met. That would have been back in the 90's. My memory says that maybe he was a butcher by trade. He had the original invoice for the car which you should have, maybe around £13,000. His sale price was i think £6750. I think it was a BMW car club event. He was trying to sell the car then. At that time it was just an old BMW and there was no interest at the price he was selling it at. The car was possibly fourteen or fifteen years old. I saw it for sale for a good while afterwards with no takers at his price. I next saw it for sale at a much higher price as they were slowly getting recognised even though technically rarer than the e28 M5 that I have. (That depends on what you count total production numbers of the model designation or model variation like the e34 M5 touring) The e12 was the forgotten car for a long time. If it is as I remember the first owner was retiring, or just retired so he would be quite old now. If it is the same man and the same car I am sure he would like to know that someone like you is giving it the love it deserves.
  19. ///M5

    Steering boxes

    The hoses tend to to be shaped to fit. When I have had hoses made up I fitted them and marked the position of the hose relative to the fitting. When they are crimped the marks are lined up. You may not have that issue and the standard hose may fit.
  20. ///M5

    New bloke with E12 M535i

    My understanding of the red boot was one only, on the inside right by the exhaust. When I got my car in 1990 I thought it looked odd. It was like one was replaced. It was only when I saw another car that had the same layout of only one red boot that I realised why it was that way. I wonder did the original owner of your car replace the boot on the left hand side. It certainly bothered my OCD until I understood its function. I met the owner of your car a long time ago and it would not surprise me based on how he kept the car. Here is the part number for the red boot if anyone else is interested. I bought this a long time ago. Checked online and first result shows a price of £72 If you find the bolts please post the supplier. When I rebuilt the calipers I could not find the bolts but That was pre internet.
  21. ///M5

    New bloke with E12 M535i

    Some very nice work going on there. Interesting to see the drive shafts. The originals had the red gaiter on the right hand side mounted close to the exhaust. Red for the higher temperature. That part went NLA and the newer part was a standard gaiter. I think the red is silicone composition. The end caps on driveshafts are needed for the e12 as the e28 ones do not fit. The gold plating is nice on the calipers looks nice initially but does not fair well over time but if it never sees the rain or dampness it stands a better chance. It will be interesting to see how they turn out. I bought new calipers from W&N with the gold but on the casting it is a duller colour. I did a couple myself and the colour was not great the rough casting does not help. The silver/blue passivate came out much better.
  22. ///M5

    Steering boxes

    The e34 fits but the hose connections are in a different place on the box. Both are on the top on the e34. Top and bottom on the e28.
  23. ///M5

    528i, missing, poor running, won't rev/idle

    Just to put here for you is the pump should deliver a minimum of 2.2 litres a minute at 2.5-3.5 bar pressure. I should have put it up when talking about testing the fuel flow. You should fill a 5 litre container in just over two minutes. If it can achieve that then you have no problems.
  24. ///M5

    528i, missing, poor running, won't rev/idle

    With regard to the issue. The key point you made that it has sat for 6 months. What I have found is that cars do not like to sit for long periods. Before ethanol was put into petrol I had no issues with cars being parked up. I once had an alfa that was parked in an outdoor car park for a year, with a new battery it started first time and drove out of the car park. Nowadays I find that cars that sit cause problems all the time. I have had to replace fuel pumps that have seized up on a number of my cars that have sat unused. The ethanol causes problems with absorption of water and corrosion to metal parts. It also breaks down the rubber in the hoses if they are not suitable for the ethanol. I think if the tank is not full the moisture in the air makes it worse. I am not saying it is your problem but I would take of the supply hose and run the pump by bridging the relay, deliver into a measured container to see how much fuel is supplied in 30 secs. You could also blow down the return line to check it is clear. A pressure gauge would also be a good idea if you have one.
  25. ///M5

    Elec Window Troubles..

    I always removed the complete unit to clean and re-grease the mechanism. I cannot remember removing just the motor. It is probably best to remove the complete unit from the car it is easier to work on.