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///M5 last won the day on June 9

///M5 had the most liked content!

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  1. ///M5

    528i, missing, poor running, won't rev/idle

    Just to put here for you is the pump should deliver a minimum of 2.2 litres a minute at 2.5-3.5 bar pressure. I should have put it up when talking about testing the fuel flow. You should fill a 5 litre container in just over two minutes. If it can achieve that then you have no problems.
  2. ///M5

    528i, missing, poor running, won't rev/idle

    With regard to the issue. The key point you made that it has sat for 6 months. What I have found is that cars do not like to sit for long periods. Before ethanol was put into petrol I had no issues with cars being parked up. I once had an alfa that was parked in an outdoor car park for a year, with a new battery it started first time and drove out of the car park. Nowadays I find that cars that sit cause problems all the time. I have had to replace fuel pumps that have seized up on a number of my cars that have sat unused. The ethanol causes problems with absorption of water and corrosion to metal parts. It also breaks down the rubber in the hoses if they are not suitable for the ethanol. I think if the tank is not full the moisture in the air makes it worse. I am not saying it is your problem but I would take of the supply hose and run the pump by bridging the relay, deliver into a measured container to see how much fuel is supplied in 30 secs. You could also blow down the return line to check it is clear. A pressure gauge would also be a good idea if you have one.
  3. ///M5

    Elec Window Troubles..

    I always removed the complete unit to clean and re-grease the mechanism. I cannot remember removing just the motor. It is probably best to remove the complete unit from the car it is easier to work on.
  4. ///M5

    Elec Window Troubles..

    If you have 12v+ and 12v-. The negative side is important and often overlooked. Electron flow is from negative to positive. The normal convention is that it is positive to negative. So often a positive is seen as that all is ok. You cannot have a circuit without a good earth. Most of the non working electric motors I have found actually work when the load is disconnected. If you remove the motor from the window mechanism and connect to a good battery directly with an inline fuse you might find it works. The grease inside gets hard with age and helps bind up the mechanism. If that does not work then if you remove the motor from the gearbox you will probably find it works. I have brought a lot back to life by doing this. Re grease and they work fine.
  5. ///M5

    BMW e12 m535i speedo stopped working

    Hi PatMo Had a look at an old speedometer which was either e21 or e12. As I said it is a mechanical gauge. The speed and mileage are run from gears. The gears in the unit I have are all plastic and there are a lot of them so the most likely scenario is something broken or jammed. What did you do to your unit? Check the drive cable is in good condition and correctly inserted. To test the unit I have, I put a small torx bit in the cable entry and ran a drill at speed. There is no needle but the shaft moved and mileage increased. You could do this with your gauge. The bit I used was a T-10 and fitted without any force.
  6. ///M5

    BMW e12 m535i speedo stopped working

    Hi PatMo I would have to look at an e12 speedo to refresh my memory. I once did an e28 speedo to e12. The e28 it is possible to have a working speedometer and no mileage which of course is the ideal way, your car does not decrease in value. The drive gears can break and the mileage does not change. The speed comes from the differential and still works. The e28 is electro-mechanical. The e12 is mechanical so the most likely cause is a gear problem. I will see if I can find a gauge to look at.
  7. ///M5

    Looking at ‘79 528i

    Hi Capnophobe First impression of your car is a nice looking car but the bumpers ruin the look of the car. I forget that the American models got the Federal bumpers. Have a look at some pictures of European models. Some owners changed to "Euro bumpers" as they preferred the look of them. With regard to the car it is now over 40 years old. If the car is pre sept 79 it is slightly different than sept 79 on models. There were some changes and the last of the cars were more compatible with e28. Seats from an e28 fit straight into later models but not the earlier ones. The glass from an e28 will fit. Front and rear screens and side glass fit, but there are two colours of glass, green and bronze and clear. With regard to the doors. E28 will fit, but if you do fit an e28 door the door trims around the window are different and cannot be swapped. So unless you change all your doors the door window trim will not match and will look odd. Suspension front and back are different as are differentials. Different steering box. The engines are similar up to the e34 model. So it is possible to put an e34 535i engine in but it needs some work to fit. Engine mounts and wiring main items. An e28 engine is an easier swap. If you do go for a car like that then you have to be prepared for the fact that parts may be harder to get than an e28 and do you do the work or get someone to work on it. That car may have a distributor with "points" in it. A lot of mechanics may not know what points are as they have not ever worked on cars that old. The thing with a car like that is it will probably turn more heads than a brand new BMW 5 series and you will notice people taking pictures of it. Walloth&Nesch in Germany and BMW Classic are probably the best source of parts.
  8. ///M5

    Bmw e28 progress pics

    That is the way to do it. Restoring an E28, rusty bits on the car, I can cut them out and replace. "Oh garage not big enough". I will just build an other one. Good luck with the build.
  9. ///M5

    m535i e12 value cover gasket M30

    Hi PatMo Here is the tightening order. Undo is reverse. Do not do them up to tight M6 bolt is 9Nm and m8 is15Nm. Nm is Newton metres.
  10. ///M5

    Instrument battery replacement.

    Put up a picture of your board. Everybody likes pictures. Early cars had different boards and batteries.
  11. ///M5

    BMW e12 m535i 1980 wont start

    We all make mistakes. What often happens in these situations is you are too close to the problem. People often do what you do and replace items to see if they work. Then change back when they do not change things. You can then get yourself confused and look for all kinds of problems. When you change a part it should be new or a know working spare. With regard to how it runs as you see it now starts. If you have a good spark at the right time then the car should run. I would double check the leads, put up a photo of the layout and mark them. Check with a multi-meter that each one is correct. Check the spark plugs to see how they look. Things like new leads distributor cap and rotor and spark plugs are a good idea if you have no knowledge of them being changed. How the engine runs is another matter. Fuel pressure is important when the engine is running. What you can try is running the car above idle at about 3000 rpm. See how it runs then. It can often be an idle problem. Air leaks are the biggest problem . The engine could be running too lean. As for the heat generated again simple things like oil and water are correct are things to check. An engine running lean produces more heat. If the engine was not running correctly before then you are back to the start so approach it from that point.
  12. ///M5

    BMW e12 m535i 1980 wont start

    I can only go from the photos but it appears that you have mixed up your leads. I have pointed out that the rotor should point to number number 1 plug on the distributor. On your last photo the rotor is pointing to number 1 (when it is put back on) and the marks are all ok. Now the numbers you have used do not relate to the ignition timing. This is where you are going wrong. Do not use the metal spikes as reference. It is the rotor that is important. Looking at your previous photo your lead marked 1 is in fact number 6. Your ignition timing is 180 degrees out Look at the photos I include. Rotor is pointing at number 1 plug on the distributor so number one plug lead goes to number 1 spark plug. Turning clockwise the leads should be 5 then 3 then 6 then 2 then 4 then back to 1 again. To be clear the plug leads are in the wrong order so no start or very poor running If it is not clear then we can go though the leads one by one.
  13. ///M5

    BMW e12 m535i 1980 wont start

    That is correct. If you put the rotor arm on the centre of the brass part should be opposite that notch. You have not shown where the OT mark. No picture of the camshaft marks. From the previous photos the camshaft marks will not line up. Your camshaft timing is not as BMW specified. It looks to be a few degrees advanced. How much could be measured. I am making an assumption that the car ran before hand. Advancing a cam can improve mid range acceleration and may have been deliberate. As you have seen it takes two turns of the crankshaft for one turn of the camshaft. It is possible (and has been done) to have the valve or ignition timing 180 degrees out. If you look at the photo you can see the pistons of an engine at top dead centre. You can see that two pistons are at the top 1 and 4 (4 cylinder engine) In your engine (6 cylinder) number 1 and 6 are at the top. Number one is at the firing point and number 6 has pushed all of the gases out of the exhaust. So with regard to your engine you have checked the valve timing (which has more advance than standard) Ignition timing is in the correct static timing. You should now start the car and set the ignition timing with the engine running. But............... it does not start. So check again that the spark plugs have a spark by removing them and placing on the valve cover or good earth. Do not hold them in your hand as you could get quite a shock of them. You then know that it is not a spark issue. There is spark and it is at the right time (basic). So the next check is for fuel and air. Next thing is to check, is the fuel pump is running. When trying to start the car go to the back of the car on the right hand side on the inside of the wheel you should hear the pump running. It is also possible to check the pump by sending 12v+ to terminal 88d Green/ violet wire on the combination relay which should be mounted on the LHS wing beside the coolant reservoir. It can also be done by moving the flap on the air flow meter but try easy way first. One thing to make sure is that the rotor is correctly seated when installing.
  14. ///M5

    BMW e12 m535i 1980 wont start

    From your last photos you are 180 degrees out. I do not think you understand what I have said. In the last photos what I see is:- The crankshaft is at top dead centre. The OT mark lines up correctly but the camshaft is not in the correct position. It is 180 degrees out. Number 1 lobes are not pointing down and number 6 is not on the overlap (as I said it is called rocking which if you look you will see why, as at that point turning the engine either way will cause the valves on no 6 to open the lobe form a "V") The distributor appears to be pointing at number 1. What you need to do:- Rotate the engine crankshaft again until the marks (OT) line up. Make sure that the camshaft no.1 lobes pointing down no. 6 "rocking. distributor pointing to number terminal. Remove that cover under the rotor arm and you should see the mark on the body. Take photos of this position.
  15. ///M5

    BMW e12 m535i 1980 wont start

    From the photo the valve timing looks incorrect but photo may be deceptive. Rotate the crankshaft until the OT mark lines up with the mark on the front case. Take a photo of the positions then and where the rotor is pointing on the distributor. The crankshaft mark lined up, then the bolt should line up with the casting on the head and the rotor pointing to number 1 on the distributor. That is how the timing should be. Valve timing and ignition timing at correct static positions.