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About ///M5

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  1. ///M5

    SI battery help

    Hi The batteries are in series in the earlier cars with the rechargeable batteries. On the board you have identified six coloured points. The batteries have two pins at one end and one at the other. On the Varta 500rst the two pin end is negative and the one pin is positive. As they are in series the positive will be connected to the negative. By looking at the tracks you should see it on the board and be able to test for continuity with a meter. The opposite end where there is not continuity is the output of the batteries. That is where you would solder your positive and negative wires to the external batteries.
  2. ///M5

    1983 E28 528i - Head Gasket!?

    Hi This part at the rear of the head is a plate with gasket. Also a washer on the bolt. Oil can escape to the rear of the head. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=4172-EUR-04-1983-E28-BMW-528i&diagId=11_0188 parts number 5 and 7. A small mirror might help you see it
  3. ///M5

    CV joint

    www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/joint-set-10171/bmw/5er-reihe/5-e28/7059-m-3-5 Lobro 302294 is oe. Spidan 20426 is the same part. Both are GKN parts. The skf part on the above site is a bargain. I do not know anything about them. The service kit by GKN is quite expensive and from bmw is more than the price of the skf part which contains the cv joint. Cheapest way is to buy a low cost cv boot and re use what you have. Do not over pack with grease. BMW spec is around 80-90 grams.
  4. Hi Ian So you have fixed one problem and now have another! When the AFM is disconnected it is running on a "limp" mode. When connected it sends a variable voltage by means of a potentiometer to the ECU. The fact that it does not idle suggests a fault in the AFM or possibly its wiring to the ECU. As you had the AFM apart I would revisit that or substitute a working one.
  5. Hi Ian You need to step back and approach it like you know nothing about it and you check everything not assuming anything. If you rebuilt the head and set it on. That is correct the same as the crank turns twice for every turn of the camshaft. So to make sure it is correct the rotor points to no 1 spark plug lead. On an older engine the points would be about to open. If that is correct then the timing is correct and can be adjusted with the pulley. Check that the spark plug leads are in the correct order. The layout should be 1,5,3,6,2,4 The layout is confusing on the motronic. Then check for an air leak. Air leaks are the most common cause of poor idle. Go through it and you will find the issue.
  6. Hi If the engine runs at a higher rpm then a vacuum leak is not as noticeable. At idle vacuum leaks cause poor idle. Any air that gets into the engine downstream of the air flow meter is not metered. The idle control valve tries to correct it. With regard to your saying that the timing cannot be 180 degrees out. The cam turns 720 degrees for the 360 degrees of the crankshaft. So there are two occasions when the marks line up once when the rotor points to number 1 plug and once when it points to number 6 plug. The initial symptoms you posted sounded like this. That the timing was way out and firing at the wrong time. When I suggested this you said it cannot be out. By starting from the beginning check everything you have done that is the only way to find if there are any mistakes. The poping and banging suggests that the timing is out or from the wet plugs that there is too much fuel. Check all vacuum lines including the ones under the inlet manifold. I would run the fuel pump without the engine running and check that fuel is returning to the tank. A blocked return would cause high pressure.
  7. Hi I can understand your frustration. If you increase the rpm to a higher level say 4000 will it run at those revs?. Is it that it will run at a steady high rpm but not idle?
  8. Are you sure that the cam is timed correctly? When no 1 is at top dead centre no 6 should be on the overlap. It is possible to have the cam timing 180 degrees out. Remove the cam cover to check that the top dead centre mark on the pulley is lined up. No 1 cylinder valves will be closed. Check No 6 and you should see that the valves are on the overlap. That is turning the engine one way or the other will open or close the valves, sometimes called "rocking" which describes the motion of one to the inlet and exhaust valves.
  9. It depends on the quality of the alarm install. Most alarms that I have removed it is very apparent what is done as it stands out from the original wiring. When they are installed the fitter takes the easiest and quickest route. The feed to the starter solenoid is black/yellow. check under the steering column for the wiring and the alarm unit. If the starter is immobilised the black yellow wire is broken and connected to the control unit. The fuel pump is also probably by passed by the alarm. If you have a look for the alarm unit in the car you will see that a lot of the alarms can be overcome very easily with basic knowledge. Most are a case of cutting a few circuits in the car and connecting to the alarm control unit.
  10. ///M5

    Rust curing on e28s

    The problem with any of the products especially aerosols is how well they are applied. When repairs are carried out even if weld through primers are used the heat of welding metal burns off any coating. Spot welding reduces this to a minimum. Even spot welded seams can have rust if there is exposure to air. Oxygen is a very reactive gas and when it combines with metal it rusts. So do not expose you car to air. I don't think the lunar rover is rusting on the moon. If you spray an aerosol into your sills it will probably be patchy. You could try it in a metal pipe and see what the results are like. Any area not covered will rust an often quicker. I have a wax injection gun which runs of a compressor. The nozzle has a number of holes to give a wide spray. It is still possible to miss areas. An inspection camera is a handy tool to see the inside of box sections. If you pull back the carpets and look at the inner sills you will see plastic plugs that you can remove to look into the sill. I have put an artists brush through these holes to paint on welded seams. The brush head can be attached to a wire so it is flexible. If you can cover the weld inside and outside then there is less exposure to air so less chance of rust. I have used the bilt hamber products which are very good but I put some of the rust converter onto some metal which was left outside. The rust broke through after one winter. They recommend that a top coat is applied over their product. With regard to oil. If you have ever looked at a very oily dirty engine or removed oily dirty parts they are generally not rusty. The oil mixed with the dirt make a protective paste which excludes oxygen. The likes of waxoyl is doing the same job and it can become more viscous the hotter the metal gets. It will not stay as well on vertical surfaces so it is worth looking at reviews of products with this in mind.
  11. ///M5

    E28 Lighting and Body Panels

    Hi Try https://www.carz2.co.uk/bmw-518-528-e28-81-87--16190-c.asp for body panels. Worth asking what they can get. Hadrian used to make good panels. Some of these may be similar. I have used the sills before and some were excellent. German sites are good for parts. I bought from a site called, http://teiledirekt.de The site has been down since the beginning of the year. Many of the parts were cheaper than everywhere I tryed. This site is I think connected but I have no experience of them. https://www.daparto.de/Nebelscheinwerfer-Einsatz/BMW-5er-E28/2-191-1924?kbaTypeId=134 Hope it helps. Now get on with the project and keep it moving forward.
  12. ///M5

    Dead battery, how do I get in the car!

    Good that you are sorted. I have found that it works like that. One door works and the other does not. It may just be the fact that one is looser than the other. Never looked to see why that is because when its open you do not care.
  13. ///M5

    Dead battery, how do I get in the car!

    Hi Lift the door handle.Then insert the key and unlock. If it does not work on the driver side then do it on the passenger side (that is the side I would do first) The handle must be lifted first and held up before you turn the key.
  14. ///M5

    Advice desperately needed

    That is a good picture of what I described. You cant see the rusting of the metal and the hose is intact. I have an e12 and the hose is the same as the e28 hose. There is no deterioration of the hose at all, and it is close to 40 years old. It is like BMW underseal it will be here long after humans. If your hose is not like the hose in the photo then it probably has been changed. Could it have been damaged when the welding was done? I nicked the drain hose on a car previously when doing a repair and added a joiner to extend it out as in the photo. I would remove the door seal and peel back the headliner where it is stuck to the door frame. Check with a torch to see if it is ok then remove the speaker and try to feel for the hose which may have been pushed up. Pull it down while someone checks to make sure it is not pulled off the sunroof mounting.
  15. ///M5

    Advice desperately needed

    The route of the drain hose is from the front of the sunroof cassette through the A pillar down to the rear of the speaker well. I have routed the hose out through a hole to the inner wing. If you remove the speaker you should be able to see it or feel it. You can remove the door rubber at the front and peel back the headliner to see it attached to the sunroof cassette. The hose is a rigid type of plastic. It is not like the rubber hoses on the car. I have seen the drain at the front rotten with rust and separated from the hose but the hose is intact. Remove the speaker and check yourself the type of hose.