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Raptor101

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About Raptor101

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  1. Raptor101

    iDrive Dead! Part No Help

    Ah, bugger! So £250 to fix the 2005 CCC and £300 for an Android replacement? Is it compatible with an iPhone (I haven't used Android for 10 years+)?
  2. Raptor101

    iDrive Dead! Part No Help

    Thanks for responses. Looks like I'll need to look into changing some of the other items prior to going the whole hog and replacing the CCC. If it's the harness to the screen or the screen itself would that need coding or programming as well? The upgrade to a more modern system looks the way to go TBH. The current system is like running a 2004 laptop and it's a bit passe now.
  3. Raptor101

    iDrive Dead! Part No Help

    Afternoon all Yesterday, en route to the car's MOT, the iDrive screen failed on start. Car is a 01/2005 E61 530D M Sport with CD, DVD, SatNav, CD stacker in glovebox and Bluetooth. I have recently replaced the Diversity antenna (new part from Cotswold) and fitted a 2nd hand Bluetooth MULF to get my BT back, which was plug and play. All working well for 3-4 months after that. I also replaced the IBS with a 2nd hand part at the same time as that was playing up and generating a parasitic drain. I rebooted the system using the 2 x eject buttons and the vol button and that at least initially got the screen back to the BMW logo boot-up screen but no farther. Then the system went off and on intermittently about 3 -4 times in a 2 hour journey. iDrive button rotates without any resistance. Carly codes read and the relevant one is: 00A468 Central info display / Zentrales Display: no LVDS signal / Errors in the video signal / Cable break externally / Energy-saving mode active Good news is that my old 170k clunker passed her emissions and MOT with no advisories, despite a bit of fretting by me, but now stands to cost me an arm and a leg to get the iDrive back. The original part no is 65 836 953 773 and my mate with the garage where it's currently located has found a CCC system from a 12/04 E61 with a part no of 65 836 987 689 for a few hundred quid. BMW OEM has a variety of part nos that have superseded the original part no (amazing how many there are listed for it) but nothing that remotely compares to that on offer. Prior to buying the 2nd hand part from the breakers, my question is whether this part would need coding or not and, if so, would this have to be done by a specialist or main dealer at probably a greater cost than the 2nd hand part? I would appreciate any guidance from your collective wisdom before spanking a bunch of cash on a relatively low value car. Ultimately I can just use earphones for music and my iPhone for satnav but, unfortunately, I set the centre vent to hot recently and that is controlled by the iDrive and it's getting a little toasty apparently! Many thanks in advance.
  4. Raptor101

    535d The Extra Thermostat fitting Guide.

    Ok, thanks mate. I think my ‘stats are good to be honest, considering the R5 mod only gives me +1 deg C. I’ll remove it and put the VAG stat in as you advise, otherwise it’ll all get a little confusing with different ‘stats and mods in the system. Is it easier done from above or below, once the under tray is removed? Also, are those VAG clips essential or can you use Jubilee clips to secure either end. I’ve already got the VAG ‘stat recommended from your DIY post.
  5. Raptor101

    535d The Extra Thermostat fitting Guide.

    I have just fitted the inline thermostat mod. As a bit of background I put this on the FB page just before Christmas: Need some thermostat advice please folks. I have an ‘05 E61 530D auto on 165k. Both my main and EGR (which is deleted) ‘stats were replaced 12000 miles ago. Check of temps recently showed that I’m only getting 85-86C at extended motorway cruise speeds with a single early read of 90C uphill. Takes about 20 min from start to get into 80s. Getting mid-30s fuel consumption. Have removed EGR stat and can blow through it with a bit of effort but it doesn’t appear wide open.I’m thinking maybe it’s the transmission heat exchanger and am contemplating one of the in-line ‘stat mods discussed on the forums. For those in the know: 1. Which is the more effective online mod to address gearbox stat failure? 2. How can I get transmission fluid temps from either Carly or C110? Can’t see any obvious parameter. I have a Cable Shack cable with all the software but yet to load it. 3. What is the normal operating temperature for a ZF 6 speed autobox (serviced within 40k). I got some good advice to have a go at the transmission heat exchanger 'stat inline mod on the lower transmission cooler, hose but I decided to go for the easy option first. I've just been on a 60 miles motorway test drive and my results are inconclusive: 86-87C +/-1C (dependent upon incline), gearbox temp steady at 43C, although it took a good 35 min to get above 40C, which is still looks pretty low? Fuel consumption looks good, albeit at 65mph on the motorway. Mindful that the engine design operating temps are in the low 90s, would I be right in thinking that the transmission cooler looks to be open and the extra cooling effect of that heat exchanger is dragging my coolant temp down by the crucial 5-6 deg C or so? One reason I want the transmission at the design temp is to rule out the low temps forcing my ZF box to remain in the warm-up cycle, as I am getting the classic Torque Converter failure symptoms of the transmission 'hunting' +/- 75rpm at 60-70mph with cruise in. Appreciate any help offered. Happy New Year all.
  6. Raptor101

    IBS or Not?

    Thanks for the advice gents. The error codes I was getting all related to items under the spare wheel well which are notorious for getting fried due to water ingress, so I checked under the spare and there was no evidence of any contamination or water ingress. I decided to replace the original IBS with a later version from eBay (different plugs so I spliced and soldered the old plugs onto the new one). After clearing codes and starting again with the new IBS fitted Carly now telling me that the PDC module and the TC Control (MPM?)/Body Control Module faults are cleared so here's hoping that my old IBS was causing the TC Control to keep waking the car up, as in the video. I will advise on progress and whether the battery retains charge over the next week or so as many of these threads have helped my diagnosis in the past.
  7. Raptor101

    IBS or Not?

    Thanks Jason. Interesting. Carly showing Car Body Module error codes: 00A458 :AL TCCONTROLERROR OFF and 00A409 :KBM ENERGIZED which I'm researching this PM. Any pointers appreciated from those with the knowledge.
  8. Raptor101

    IBS or Not?

    Due to original issue and a lack of ideas really! Tomorrow I’ll check the current draw across the fuses but I’m pretty certain the MULF is the problem - too much of a coincidence. Question is, why does a module like the MULF cause a parasitic draw? What happens to it? Would the MOST system staying active drain the battery that quickly? A 110AH battery flat in 9 hrs is a 12Amp draw, assuming a healthy charged batt in the first place. Not sure what I could have active that would generate that sort of load without knowing about it.
  9. Raptor101

    IBS or Not?

    Thanks for responses Jason. All fuses checked and ok and the car goes to sleep normally (light by gearshift goes out after about 25 min after locking). I’ll fit the replacement IBS tomorrow and see what that does. Just hoping that the repeated drains and charges won’t kill the battery.
  10. Raptor101

    IBS or Not?

    Update: Bought a second hand eBay MULF, same year model/part no and fitted immediately. Bluetooth resurrected! Paired new (to car) iPhone and works a treat making calls from phonebook, etc. Unable to test CD changer as I cannot find the disc magazine any more. CD appears greyed out on Entertainment selection on iDrive. Powered up Carly on iPad and that works properly now as well, showing a variety of codes some of which are a bit strange, such as Diversity antenna not plugged in, although the new one allowed my key fobs to start working again immediately on fitment of Diversity so it must be plugged in right? Moved on to fitting new LED bulbs into headlights and when I came to start the car that evening (9 hours after plugging the new MULF in) the batt was completely flat. My Blue Point charger showing 0% batt, which is a Bosch item, about 2 years old. Charged up overnight but only showing 12.1V this morning. Bugger! So, the obvious culprit is the eBay MULF which appears to be working normally in all other ways. The eBay IBS has arrived so I'll delay fitting that so as not to confuse the issue although if I read its functions correctly then the original IBS should be turning the power off to non-essential items like Bluetooth if there is a power drain. That would suggest that my original IBS is also faulty. Appreciate anyone's thoughts on my problems so that I can have a go solving the electrical snags with this bloody car, it's driving me mad!
  11. Raptor101

    IBS or Not?

    Thanks for the answers, much appreciated. Interesting, your thoughts about the IBS and the hinge wiring and the consequent jump starts spoiling the mix of diagnoses JasonH. I think I'll plump for the eBay MULF2 first and see what that does to the issue. Not sure of the firmware/software states of my old smoker but I'll give it a go. Quite a few people on the forum say that they work from the off. Need to get my Carly module working again to help with the coding if it doesn't. I'll provide feedback, successful or not.
  12. Raptor101

    IBS or Not?

    Evening All I'm after a little advice with reference to a bunch of electrical snags and hopefully point me towards a likely culprit. I've read a vast amount of possible scenarios on this E61 Achilles Heel but am no closer resolving my problems. For about 3 years now I have lived with a variety of electrical problems around the tailgate of my 170k 03/05 E61 530D. Originally it started with me leaving the tailgate open during a car boot sale and sending the alarm off as the batt discharged. After that (as the catalyst) I suffered the following and remedied most of them as shown: Battery drain warning on iDrive - 1st new batt fitted by local garage and I don't think coded correctly, or at all (£150). Tailgate glass popping open - tailgate switch button replaced (£65). No response from either key fob and alarm going off randomly upon manual entry - new Diversity module (£247). Continued batt overnight drain and poor charge retention overnight - 2nd new batt, coded this time through Carly (a year ago with no batt drain warnings) (£200) Random rear light warnings and failed rear window heater- tailgate hinges wiring repaired (£250 with German repair loom) So, I'm slowly getting there but getting poorer. Gee'd up by my success with the Diversity antenna and the resetting of my key fobs I've decided to try and sort out the last lecky issues: PDC warning and a lack of Bluetooth. The PDC I'm sure is just a sensor which I can sort with a rear bumper removal. No Bluetooth - tick box highlighted on iDrive but unable to turn on. Bluetooth module under the load area has been recycled with power cable disconnection and a red light seen on the plug that goes into the MULF module, but not from the module itself. Does it need this light to communicate with the rest of the system? If there's no light does that indicate that my module is fried? Could the loss of Bluetooth suggest that the IBS is shutting down non essential modules such as the MULF? The car is going to sleep normally after about 20-30 min (orange light on autobox shift). So in your collective wisdom what should I chuck more of my money at now? An IBS or a Bluetooth module? Is there any way of checking either as an eBay purchase is probably likely to suffer the same ageing and failures as mine and I'm not sure I want to go to the expense of getting both from BMW. Appreciate any help you all can offer. My Carly adaptor has stopped working since I upgraded to the last IOS so I'm looking for other ways of deducing the problems. Cheers R101
  13. Raptor101

    E61 530D Diversity Antenna

    Price of a Diversity Antenna for the above please? VIN is B500937.
  14. Raptor101

    05 E61 Tailgate Woes!

    Good question. I only supplied the single OS loom. I sort of assumed that they would check all the wires that went through the hinges. I suppose I need to pull those out and do some continuity testing?
  15. Raptor101

    05 E61 Tailgate Woes!

    Folks, some of your collective advice please? I have an 05 E61 530D with 160k on the clock. A couple of years ago, having left the boot open for a day and running it down, the car failed to start. Battery recharged but was never the same running flat at inopportune moments so had it replaced by a local garage. Since then I've had a variety of issues that are related and some just coincidence some of which have been fixed and some still with me and despite doing a shedload of research I can't seem to pinpoint what may be the issue here. Problems I've had since then: No Bluetooth (greyed out box on iDrive screen). Poor FM reception. Battery drain message. Battery running flat. Random opening of tailgate glass. Failed rear wiper motor. No remote locking key reception - never slowly failed just stopped working one day. Alarm sounds on 50% of opening driver's door with key. Annoying. The rectifications I've completed in the intervening period are: New YUASA batt - correctly coded.The 2nd since I replaced the original 2 years back. IBS disconnected to check the batt drain message - no effect. New rear tailgate glass switch. Stopped the random opening of the glass lid. Both rear hinge wiring looms repaired professionally. O/S done with an aftermarket eBay loom from Germany. Several broken wires found but the fix didn't resolve any of the niggling issues. Removal of Diversity antenna - looks fine without any moisture/corrosion so was put back into position. Rear wiper motor replaced (I think that was just seizure due to position). FM antenna re-positioned under boot spoiler - FM reception now 80% of pre-failure standard. So I still no longer have any Bluetooth or remote central locking. After all my research the finger would be pointed at the Diversity antennna but that looks fine without anything obviously wrong with it. I cleaned it with electrical flux cleaning solution and refitted the cover. At 250 quid I'm loath just to buy another off ebay and hope for the fix. Can they be tested at all? Anyone know of any companies that provide this service? I would appreciate your collective advice as I'm getting rather tired of tghe endless electrical snags this car seems to throw up continually. Really takes the edge off owning a motor like this. Cheers
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