Johan

On my lcm4 I there is one pin which goes to the level sensor on autoleveling lights and the adjustmwnt wheel on the other which is the issue in the electronics. Auto cant be coded to manuel either. Ive tried. Do note there are lots of lcm4 part numbers with different electronics. So there might be the 1 module where just coding auto or manual does work.

On mine the aux water pump blocked all the heat going to the heater core as the impeller came to pieces. It can also leak. To remove it just connect the output hose to the watervalve where its input hose is connected. Sounds strange, but if you're doing the work it will make sense as it only fits one way.

Wiring diagram can be found here: http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1989 BMW 525i - 535i Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf Here is a write up from Gale who did a e32 735 auto to manual swap. i think you might be interested in the "Electrical details" section: http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_41.htm

Interesting read. Thanks for that!

No coding is required. I found the GM is not that fussy about coding anyway. Why not just add a relay to switch the 30A connection to the seat using the switched 12v you have available.

I have played around a bit with coding plugs from the blue backed cluster. When I randomly changed data in the coding plug EEPROM it would give the "CODE TACHO" error. Now how this fix this? Do you have tools to read and write the EEPROM / coding plug? The blue backed cluster can be re-coded using DIS with a made up ZCS describing the parameters of the car. This often cleared the "CODE TACHO".

Worse then stock e34 halogens. And they already have a bad reputation. 120 euro but with a 100 core charge on my worn lenses. I dont think the evo xr have the lhd rhd setting. Which makes life difucult when we go the UK.

Swapped out the reflector units in my facelift headlights. I got the rebuild ones from a German company https://www.reflektorklinik.de/

just the radio loom. sorry no pictures at the moment as the e39 is still at the painters.

I think you're going to have to dig into this yourself. I have seen a lot of variations in the wiring of the models and over the years. I would start checking out the plug from the engine loom to the main harness (that big round one). Write the pin numbers to wire colours down of both cars and match them to the ETM. Then check function for function where they go. With petrol engine swaps one can often get away with plugging in the other engine loom. But a tds is going to have a couple of different wires like the glow bulb in the cluster (potentially a different cluster as the tds only came with a "low" cluster),...etc.

It is a separate loom on my car it plugs into the main loom in the boot behind the sat nav unit.

You will get a black screen as the image is generated by the nav drive or tv module. Radio will also not work as its a seperate module when using the 16:9 screen.

It is indeed bellow the jacking point. This one is curb side as mine is a LHD. A friend of mine is doing the work. Can't really say anything about the price as its "special plice for my fliend" Also some additional rust removal and paint work will also be carried out. But put it this way everything together would buy me another complete e39, but I like this one as its been with me for over 14 years. I'll pass the compliments on!

My turn to sort out the tin worms who took up residence in the sills:

I think there are a couple of plastic nuts near the top aswell. At least there was on my LHD.