Johan

I have played around a bit with coding plugs from the blue backed cluster. When I randomly changed data in the coding plug EEPROM it would give the "CODE TACHO" error. Now how this fix this? Do you have tools to read and write the EEPROM / coding plug? The blue backed cluster can be re-coded using DIS with a made up ZCS describing the parameters of the car. This often cleared the "CODE TACHO".

Worse then stock e34 halogens. And they already have a bad reputation. 120 euro but with a 100 core charge on my worn lenses. I dont think the evo xr have the lhd rhd setting. Which makes life difucult when we go the UK.

Swapped out the reflector units in my facelift headlights. I got the rebuild ones from a German company https://www.reflektorklinik.de/

just the radio loom. sorry no pictures at the moment as the e39 is still at the painters.

I think you're going to have to dig into this yourself. I have seen a lot of variations in the wiring of the models and over the years. I would start checking out the plug from the engine loom to the main harness (that big round one). Write the pin numbers to wire colours down of both cars and match them to the ETM. Then check function for function where they go. With petrol engine swaps one can often get away with plugging in the other engine loom. But a tds is going to have a couple of different wires like the glow bulb in the cluster (potentially a different cluster as the tds only came with a "low" cluster),...etc.

It is a separate loom on my car it plugs into the main loom in the boot behind the sat nav unit.

You will get a black screen as the image is generated by the nav drive or tv module. Radio will also not work as its a seperate module when using the 16:9 screen.

It is indeed bellow the jacking point. This one is curb side as mine is a LHD. A friend of mine is doing the work. Can't really say anything about the price as its "special plice for my fliend" Also some additional rust removal and paint work will also be carried out. But put it this way everything together would buy me another complete e39, but I like this one as its been with me for over 14 years. I'll pass the compliments on!

My turn to sort out the tin worms who took up residence in the sills:

I think there are a couple of plastic nuts near the top aswell. At least there was on my LHD.

You can upgrade to it if you want to. I did it it years ago in my car which is a saloon model. What you need: * The right wiring loom from radio to amp to speakers. Or if you have satnav the radio/satnav/speaker loom. I spliced a "radio loom" into my navigation equipped car. Make sure the wires aren't cut at the door looms and are de pinned so they can go back into your car. * The wiring looms or de pinned speaker wires in the doors.Front doors have three sets of speaker wires instead of just the one. Rear door has speaker wires instead of nothing * Speakers incl enclosures and sub * DSP Amplifier (note early amps like the philips won't work with the bm54 nav radio module) * mounting stuff for the sub * Mid panel with dsp button in non sat-nav car. Altough coding might do the job. I think the circuit boards inside are all the same. It might work, but not say DSP. I think it worked without coding, but I coded it just the same. I have also done this to a mate's touring which was a breeze because he bought all the stuff ready to be assembled (perfectly de-pinned and marked) from a guy who was breaking an e39 touring from the same build year.

If you current lights are good why not replace the adjusters? Or do you have the "un-openable" ones from the later build dates?

On my car the build sheet was under the passenger seat between one of the springs and foam.

Was that long ago? BMW do like to update their part prices.

The valve actually eats into the aluminium of the housing causing it to not close flush and keeping a gap. As already said I wouldn't really worry about this. I've replaced the housing on mine a number of years ago. The issue came back a couple of years later. When I had the housing off last year I rotated the valve and its been ok upto now....then again haven't really driver the car a lot in the last year...