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Huff

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Huff last won the day on November 30 2012

Huff had the most liked content!

About Huff

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Bath
  • Interests
    Alpina B10 3.3 manual; Fisher Fury R1 spyder

    Full car / garage blog over on pistonheads under member 'huff'
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    anarchy-tect

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    Alpina B10 3.3 manual

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  1. Huff

    Whats your mpg? 525I averaging 14 mpg?

    Classic cause of massive fuel consumption is a broken (stuck-open) thermostat. Does the coolant temp gauge get up to normal (needle vertical*)? if not, then look at the thermostat. *This is a 'smoothed' reading, btw: vertical needle = 'everything normal once warmed u) so if its not close to stright up after warm-up /at least 5miles of use - something's wrong. Oh, and the line just above blue on the gauge =c.60degC from watching OBD data on a couple of E39s. (Just to answer the question - v8 petrol auto, average about 28mpg overall, 33-35 on a long run is possible)
  2. Huff

    If the E39 hadn't been invented

    A good e34 is a joy forever
  3. Huff

    If the E39 hadn't been invented

    If the e39 didn't exist then amongst comparable era BMWs I'd have probably sought another good E34 540. Lots of love for the e38 though: a thing that is just right. There's a mint one kept locally, in a wonderful dark metallic blue on Parallels, that makes me smile to see it - not least because it's one original owner appears to be still enjoying it!
  4. Huff

    autobox fluid

    Quite - cannot be recommended whatsoever: You have to check carefully, many e34/e39s do not use ATF in the steering system (nor in the gearbox...) - could end up in a right pickle ' oh I've got some truffle oil leftover, I'll just tip it in there as well'. Er, no.
  5. Huff

    Complete loss of electrical power

    Both the above posts have it - the clamp arrangement is rubbish, and while the terminal seem snug, it's not. Disassemble, clean post and clamp, back the nut right off (or replace clamp with new as above), tap clamp onto battery - hammer handle or sim, doesn't take much- then snug the clamp nut and you'll be fine. (same thing happened to me - car inexplicably dead one morning; car parked inline ahead offered a jump to the under-bonnet terminal and nothing happened (click click click from solenoid only - becasue the body electrics wouldn't wake up enough). Went home, got voltmeter - battery reads 12.7v on terminals wtf?? - hence discover all of the above... )
  6. Huff

    E39 anti roll bar swap?

    Roll bar stiffness increase with fourth power of diameter. So going from 12 to 15mm, say, is (15/12)^4 = 1.25^4 = 2.4x the roll stiffness provided by the smaller bar. It's worth a sanity check that the swaps you make at each end are roughly in line with one another. the tl;dr bit: NB sticking a lot of roll stiffness on the back with out other changes can make for a bit of a leery /tailhappy mess if you push it too *e.g. without a comparable increase at the front. Similarly , massive increase in front roll stiffness without a change at the back can make for rather more understeer, not less. There's wild latitude to play/tune of course, but beware if you think 'I'll just pop this chunky thing on now, and fit the other end when it arrives in a couple of weeks' and then get caught in the rain on a nice fast winding road. (*I used that trick to make a Saab 9NG00T handle like a big mini: fun, but leery... esp if you unhooked the front ARB to make it turn-in rather harder... not that anyone ever did that for giggles on track days, of course...)
  7. Ah, sorry - same as any bolts by size for non-special bolts - M6, max 10lb-ft, M8 use 20lb/ft. (No need to go mad, though the numbers look small, the clamping loads are still enormous. M6, 1mm pitch at 10lb-ft on an oiled bolt is about 3000lb of force! )
  8. Just enough to not leak. There's a horrid tendency for some to look at the large thread size on a sump bolt and think - aha, big bolt, must be tight! when actually it is that diameter to let the oil out, and only needs to be ..nipped-up on a clean washer. The drain plug is fitted and removed many times, so the last thing you want is to chew the pan thread. FWIW I've only ever, on my cars, replaced using a 8" ratchet in one hand, and since its usually done upside down, at a reach on/near ground level at an awkward angle, that's likely 10lb-ft with a bent wrist at best. IMO that's all that's required, and I've never had an issue later. HTH.
  9. Huff

    Front arb diameter

    Looks right to me. And while teh OP is only asking after bushes for an existing a/roll bar, but discussion of swaps often comes up: so, a total aside . useless factlet I picked up studying suspension /chassis design - rollbar stiffness is proportional to 4th power of diameter. So a 24mm bar is 41% stiffer than a 22mm bar(!) Beware ever making big changes in isolation - esp on the rear. (esp on the rear of a gutsy FWD car, as I once did about 15yrs ago. Have a boosted Saab 900T pirouette round the inner front wheel into every bend like a 1275 mini? Oh yes you can - but it gets hairy/ you run out of space and options, quickly..!)
  10. Huff

    MOT emissions results

    Interesting stuff. But you got a pass, and that's all that matters. By the way, If you pull the DME fuse for only a single-figure handful of mins, the short & long term trims will be totally forgotten and the engine will start from defaults - if you need to force things again. Fun aside - ime this is nothing: my toy car is a Fisher Fury, with a Yamaha R1 engine.* Runs standard 'speed-density' management - i.e. open-loop and no lambda feedback. Getting that through an MOT tested as a post 2002 car is always rather short of actually being fun... but possible. I've got a spot-on map, a cat, and even then I pray for just the right combination of temperature, (engine -and test day!), revs (you try holding 2500rpm on engine that is barely off-idle at 2K, has the flywheel inertia of a spinning penny , and really only gets out of bed above 7K) and no air leaks in the exhaust, just to make it happen. PS About 4yrs ago I got an emissions slip that got lambda right-on 1.003 , but CO2 at idle at 299ppm. That is a pass - just (*170hp and 425kg in road-legal trim with a full tank of fuel - immense fun, not unlike like spending 20mins in a spin-dryer at a time)
  11. Huff

    MOT emissions results

    Doesn't get any better than that! Nowt wrong with it.
  12. The inverted-T- bolt style battery terminal clamp is pretty crappy: it can have the nut tight, but the terminal-post connection still actually loose - so definitely worth checking - I've had this before. Loosen the 10mm nut right off, pull the terminal off the battery post, clean/de-burr both (eg light scrape with a penknife); lightly tap the terminal down snug (eg use hammer's handle or similar; I've an 4oz nylon mallet) then nip-up the 10mm nut - should be better!
  13. Huff

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    Not yet, won't be for a week or two for logistics/work reasons. I'll post an update once done.
  14. Huff

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    Ah, I should have made clear - the alpy 3.2/3.3s use the M52/single-Vanos based head casting - so only one sensor, on the intake. Sorry for confusion. Still, it'll be the intake sensor that will be linked to DME decision on vanos & injection timing
  15. Huff

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    I've just bought a new cam sensor to srick in my B10 3.3 for reasons like the above (runs brilliantly cold, usu goes-off a bit lumpy/erratic /tendency to pink once warmed-up - no codes, no mayo, newish ccv etc) Decided to go the whole hog, bought it from local BMW dealer - it is a Siemens part. Not fitted yet, but will get a new fuel filter in it soon also anyway - booked into my indy for service next week. And at 153K miles, I don't begrudge such things...
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