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pauliexjr

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pauliexjr last won the day on April 12 2018

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About pauliexjr

  • Rank
    Principal Member
  • Birthday 07/19/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Livingston, Scotland
  • Interests
    Fishing, Motorbikes, Cask Beer!
  • Occupation
    Special needs assessor

Garage

  • Garage
    E39 520i Touring, Vivaro Sport van, XJR1200 cafe racer

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  1. pauliexjr

    Mitchell Inglis repair shop in Glasgow?

    Sorry, don't know them, but most body shops work to a standard (unless its's a cheapo, back-street set up) So if the insurers recommend it I woudl say it should be OK,. The other option is if you already have someone you know and trust ask the insurers if you can take it there. Get a comparative quote from your proferred shop and send it to the insurance company to show it will cost them like for like.
  2. pauliexjr

    Charging a new battery

    That sounds like bovine scatology to me. Dash Cameras are designed to run in assorted vehicles with assorted charging systems and certainly should not need any adjustment, they are what is known as plug-and-play. Either way there should be no difference in the power output between your old battery and the new one. Assuming your dash cam was working AOK with the old battery it should not be affected in any way. As for charging, why do you need to do that? The battery should have come with enough charge to start the car and from there the vehicle charging system takes over, just the way it did with your old battery, just take it for a good run and your new battery should be fine (unless you have replaced your old unit with a second-hand battery, never a good idea unless you have provenance that the replacement is sound) Unless you are leaving your car unused for long periods (i.e. months) or laying it up over the Winter a modern battery will hold it's charge for months if not years providing there is no drain on it so you shouldn't need to put it on charge when it's not being used. If your dash cam is playing up I would suspect the problem lies there rather than your new battery, ask your battery supplier has it become disconnected or re-wired whilst you were having the new battery fitted?
  3. Just make sure you look very closely at what is involved in taking a car to Spain and using it over there (unless you already know) A friend recently relocated to Pollensa in Mallorca, he took his elderly Land Rover over, but then had the Devil's own job getting the thing registered and insured as a resident. Fine if you are just a tourist, but once you are there permanently you will need to jump through hoops to be able to use your imported car!
  4. I have a ride-hight warning light up, but my understanding is the 520i doesn't have airbags to adjust the ride hight. There is mention of an electric pump, but the Hyanes manual is bloody useless and only says 'electropnuematic shock absorbers were available as an option'. So where do I start? I can't find a blown fuse and initial rummages under the rear don't evidence any immediate options, so I am at a bit of a loss. Anyone with knowledge of the set up on these please feel free to comment. Please note this is the tourer i.e. an estate, not saloon. Thanks in advance (and hope)
  5. Yep, and those warranties carry very stringent codicils such as "Must be serviced at maufacturer advised intervals by a recognised franchise", "Only manufacturer supplied service/replacement parts may be used" etc. and they require documented evidence that these terms have been strictly adhered to or they use that as 'justifiable reason' not to cough up! Dealer-supplied afetrmarket warranties are not worth the paper they are wrtten on, far better to get your own through the AA or wherever.
  6. pauliexjr

    A Trip Up North

    With respect, if the OP lives near Gatwick and is going to Lockerbie presumably he'll travel M25 - M1 (or M40) - M6, he really doesn't go anywhere near Beverley which is 100-odd miles the other side of the country (unless they've moved it!)
  7. pauliexjr

    Question Time £5.19 for a pint

    I read this after a bit of a night out in Edinburgh last night. Cheapest pints were in the cask beer pubs, averaging around £4.00 for a 4.5% beer, most expensive were in the West End where one bar demanded £5.80 for my mate's Deuchars IPA (which is horse piss at best, I dispair for his taste buds!) The barman looked confused when I asked him why he wasn't wearing his Dick Turpin mask
  8. They built a ZT-T Rouche supercharged car for an attempt at the land speed record for the World's fastest (non-production) estate back in 2003, it achieved 225.6 mph and still holds the title today. They also built a number of pre-production X-power 385 bhp ZTs fitted with the aforementioned Modular Ford V8 to show what could be acheived, unfortunately the project never came to fruition as MG -Rover died due to drastic mis-management and lack of investment.
  9. Did you really just revive a 5 year-old thread? I suspect the O/P has not only resolved his issue but sold his E60 and moved on, unless of course it was a sneaky opportunity to get some pictures of your own car onto the forum??
  10. pauliexjr

    Approved Used Prices

    When you agree to buy the car on finance they have to give you a total cost for the package, but that is actually irrelevant as you have no intention of going full term with the deal. The whole point of asking for finance is to encourage them to discount the price of the car. Also it sounds like they are trying to get you to buy under a PCP or PCH rather than a straightforward finance plan. PCP ( Personal Contract Purchase) is where you pay a deposit, then so much per month for a fixed term, followed by a final payment at the end of the period which will be agreed when you take out the plan and is subject to various stipulations such as maximum mileage per annum, servicing by them (or a main franchise) no damage etc. which is why they can only give you an indicator, not an exact figure. PCH (Personal Contract Hire) is where you pay a deposit, then so much per month to effectively rent the car, they pay for all servicing, break downs etc. you just pay consumables i.e. tyres, oil, fuel etc. but you don't actually own the car, you simply return it at the end of the contract. You don't want to do either of those. You are looking for a straightforward finance plan, i.e. deposit, then so much per month until the car is paid off, this is where you then get 14 days 'cooling off period' when you simply say "I don't want the finance thank you, here is the value of the car as originally agreed when I purchased it, less my initial deposit." However, as I said originally, they might try and hit you with an early cancellation fee, make sure that isn't allowed for in the contract! And if your dealer isn't playing ball and you have the cash to buy outright just do that, especially if they are not prepared to do a deal! Best explanations of car finance can be found here https://www.moneyadviceservice.org.uk/en/articles/car-finance-explained
  11. pauliexjr

    Approved Used Prices

    As suggested, buy with their finance package and pay it off in full ASAP, they get commission on selling finance so are often willing to haggle, just check the wording very carefully to ensure there are no penalty clauses for early redemption. A word of warning though, don't be tempted to leave the finance running for a few months, they pre-load the interest on finance so your first year or so of payments are nearly all interest and you'll wind up owing just as much as you originally borrowed, even after 12 month's of payments!
  12. pauliexjr

    securing mats

    I've used these before, but it depends on the thickness of your carpet as the screws are supposed to dig through the pile and into the backing. I actually made a small hole in the carpets and trimmed the pile away around the hole to give a better grip and they worked fine. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CARPET-FIXING-HOLDERS-Grips-UNIVERSAL/dp/B07B2Y4BBR/ref=pd_cp_263_2/259-9715473-5182055?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07B2Y4BBR&pd_rd_r=a7e7dd2a-5b5c-11e9-bef7-339a8d8f976e&pd_rd_w=HbulV&pd_rd_wg=DTQAq&pf_rd_p=01704ebe-a86a-4b47-8c36-0f9f5bbc2882&pf_rd_r=CBB491KGGC8QADR7MCM8&psc=1&refRID=CBB491KGGC8QADR7MCM8
  13. pauliexjr

    This couldn't actually happen, could it?

    Back to the topic, logic says it is unenforceable due to things like temporary roadwork speed restrictions and variable speed restrictions in areas around schools. These are not notified to the GPS system and as such don't get updated in real time, if at all, so how will a manufacturer installed speed limited cope if it relies on local speed limit data? The concept is so farcical if it hadn't been publicised last week i would have suspected some April Fool's Day prankster at work!
  14. pauliexjr

    This couldn't actually happen, could it?

    Er, there is, it's called 'Cruise Control' and it automatically limits the speed you do, what's more it's adjustable at the touch of a button to accommodate those pesky variable speed areas and roadworks too!
  15. My old 520i is showing 4 lights, brakes, ABS, air-bag and self levelling. I'm pretty sure the brake and ABS lights will disappear when I fit new pads and discs, but what is the best way to code out the other two? My local Indy has hiked his prices and now charges £50 a visit just to read the codes and more to clear them and I hate to think what the local BMW franchise will want, even assuming they will allow a 16 y/o car into their workshop without sneering! So I'm considering going it alone and wondered what the best route would be. There seem to be numerous ODB readers available ranging from £12-15 up to literally hundreds, some simply read codes, some say they can be used to clear codes, but what do the good folk on here recommend? I'd really prefer hands-on experience recommendations as opposed to "I've heard XYZ is pretty good" or "My mate's third cousin swears by YZX and he's a trained mechanic" so what are your thoughts guys?
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