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FIVE-OH

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  1. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Zackpl in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Well over 10yrs now sir, and for sure they were mint. At the time I hadn't considered a full panel change, but after speaking to you it just made sense. I think in total it cost me £250 all in, including the cost of van hire and fuel, which iirc was approximately £100 of that!
     
    I was very surprised when you confirmed the car was lazerblau. It is a rare colour on e34, royal and orient blues being far more popular. I think I've only seen perhaps five or six lazer examples in the flesh, other than my own example. 
     
    Here's the only shot I have of the car/victim. I'd hate to think what it would be worth today. A lovely motor and a real shame. I believe you reckoned that at least 10-15 e34's benefited from the demise of this one car.
     

     
    And my my own car after the swap.  Probably at it's peak condition in my ownership at this point.
     

     
     
     
  2. Like
    FIVE-OH reacted to Bumbaclut in E34 Alpina B10 Bi turbo touring project   
    Yes i picked her up yesterday its all taxed and MOT'd road legal!   It sat for a week or two as they were so swamped with other work

    So it ended up going to their bodyshop to sort the sills out







    These were the two front repairs needed on the sills
     
     
     


    Also some repairs on the rear of sills
     
     


     
    And re stone chipped the paint.  So at least now thats all the grot removed, as although the bodywork is tatty its not a rusty pig the shell
     
     


     
    This Marks a nice chap, he got the engine running a year ago, so he was back on it this time.    They've fixed the EML light not coming on so that has allowed full boost! this was some wiring into the cluster that need completing. The wiring was there.  Also ABS light was on permanently, i think this was an incorrect relay.  
    OBC is still dead, this is suspected the unit is faulty. I've got some spares in english from American cars but they are different.   Reverse lights is some wiring in the tailgate suspected as only 4volts there but its not needed for MOT believe it or not.
    they've also wired in the ASC traction plug.  The loom was there as part of the EML system So added the plug loom into it and this is working but not.    ABS is working correctly and so is ASC when engine fires up. You can press switch and turn it off. once driving however over say 10mph the ASC light comes on and wont go off. ABS still works correctly.  So basically i've run out of money as the welding spiralled and nothing every goes perfect!  So will have to save and send back.  Theres a hunch its my clocks which are a mismatch that needs sorting.   
    Cruise control is working, that was just a missing clutch switch,   I'd never ran a spec check on the base car but Barry ran it through and it was a very well optioned 525i touring!
    Avus blue - special order as was an M5/3 colour only
    manual
    LSD
    heated sport leather
    air con
    twin sunroofs
    OBC
    cruise control
    A fine e34 in its own right
     
     


    I took it for a spin when i arrived yesterday and its an fucking animal! No lie, fastest car i've ever owned.  A slight tickle on 2nd on the way out had the back swinging no sweat, i caught the slide fine but wasn't quite expecting that!  It must be the lightly tweeked turbos as it gets to full boost at about 1800rpm and they come in quite hard.  The standard bi turbos are more linear and come in about 3500RPM.  I've not driven a standard one to compare but Barry has and mine feels alot stronger.  Its cold and the tyres are new but old if you get me but when the boost comes in snakes in 2nd 3rd no problem.   Its going to be fun learning to drive the hot rod as it needs a bit of respect!
    When the rolling roads open i'll have to visit Charlie and get it on there see how the fueling is. In the meantime try and not thrash it everywhere and damage it.   I just need to save some more money to keep going through it. I think this will be the biggest turning point in this project.  Very chuffed and thanks to all those that have helped along the way so far 
  3. Like
    FIVE-OH reacted to JAM172 in E28 M5 number 172 of 187 RHD   
    Hi Duncan, yes all good, missing the shows etc.
     
    I have resigned myself to no more track days, nothing else even comes close to 172.
     
    What I thought I should do, seeing as I owned 172 for so long both as a show car and latterly a track car, was do a little write up on her and the e28 M5's general appeal, so here we go:
     
    I have spoken to the guy selling 172, it has had extensive engine work, he is trying to obtain copies of invoices as the guy that restored it sadly passed away, and all paper work with him.
     
    Before I owned the car, back in 1994 the previous owner tasked "Auto Technic" to investigate non - starting, he ended up with a bill for £3500 back then for chain, bent valves etc etc, it had covered 108300 miles. I note the mileage to be as I sold it (sold as non runner due to cam chain noise on start up). It had not jumped teeth on the sprockets this time.
     
    The body work and interior looks amazing, it was originally Pacific Blue Cloth, but I think the leather is a massive improvement.
     
    Would I have it back? in a heartbeat, actually I nearly did and as I was only around £54950.00 short of the asking price but nearly struck a deal to part with my e12 M535 and my e3 to get it back, but finally saw sense and realised that 172 excelled on track and it's now way too good for that, and for me on the road ......... bye bye license................AGAIN!!
     
    No, somebody else needs to own  E917 NCR, I purchased it 19 years ago £7500 and sold it 5 years ago as a non runner for £7500, ah just £47495.00 worth short of what it is worth today. The restoration would have been fortunes, I would have needed to start by finding:
    16 inch BBS wheels e28 M5  specific. Electric interior Complete Aircon kit Boot carpet specific for boot mounted battery To name just a few hard to find expensive items, sadly at the time, an e28 M5 was rare but not worth that much and consequently I had sold all of the above for what now is peanuts and due to lack of storage space.
     
    172 now looks superb, the current owner has another 12 rarer BMW classics in his collection, including E24 M535CSI, two E12 B7 Alpinas, E12 M535is, E28 Alpina B9 etc etc.
     
    Some of you may remember that for a year or so I also owned another E28 M5 at the same time as 172,  one previous owner Nr 165 covered 190000 miles and had not had the timing chain and associated works carried out, the oil had been changed every 4000 miles throughout it's life, begging the question is it really "Fact" that the chain must be done every 100,000 miles?? I think the answer is that it really depends on how well it has been looked after, needless to say I parted with around £4500 and had the work done. 172 spent the last 8 years of it's ownership with me, on track and rarely below 4000 RPM, but the oil and filter was changed after every outing, these outings included Bedford, Snetterton, Goodwood , Abberville in France and The Nuremberg ring and it never missed a beat. Like I said happy days
     
    My summary and for what my opinion worth, if you love e28's and you have never driven an e28 M5, you need to, the power delivery is what can only be described as savage, particularly in the lower gears, but beware on the road they are an accident waiting to happen in the wrong hands or conditions, let the revs climb too much and touch the throttle too soon on a greasy surface and you will end up with more than a little fight on your hands leading to some very nervous passengers, the same can be said for changing down too enthusiastically, it will lock the rear wheels and leave you facing on coming traffic  On the other hand at low revs, it will pull from 1000 rpm in any gear, you could be driving a nice low mileage mild mannered 520i, such is the appeal of an e28 M5 they really were a wolf in sheep's clothing and I count myself as very fortunate to have owned them both in more affordable times.
  4. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Sir Anthony Regents-Park in What have you done on your E34 Today   
    A happy new year to all.
     
    Though december was quite busy...
     

     
     
    A full update soon..
  5. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Sir Anthony Regents-Park in What have you done on your E34 Today   
    A happy new year to all.
     
    Though december was quite busy...
     

     
     
    A full update soon..
  6. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in Tyre sidewall damage - safe to drive?   
    No problem with that.  Seen much worse go through test with similar damage. 
     
    Although the rubber has come away there appears to be no cord showing so it's not illegal.  If you can get hold of some vulcanising solution then I'd be inclined to bond it back into place. 
  7. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from stevenc3828 in The e34 rear sill thread   
    So. Into the final furlong ..
     
    With the front end sill repairs done it was time to go back to the rear sills to complete.
     
    The inner sill join...
     

     
     
    Which was tidied up and sealed.
     

     
     
    A couple of days later, it was time to fit the outer panel. This was the area I most feared for getting it wrong since any major mistake would be visible.. 
     
    After trimming off the excess, the outer panel was placed into position and marked..
     

     
     

     
     
    Then clamped firmly into position...
     

     
     
    ...and then cut through both panels on the overlap with a 1mm cutting disc to leave this.. pretty much the ideal gap for welding.
     

     
     
    With the general dimensions in place, the panel was taken back off the car and marked for drilling. I tried and tried to get hold of a spot welder to give that professional look. But unfortunately it was not to be.
     

     
     
    Moving back to the car, the inner sill area was cleaned off and tidied. All excess weld and other detritus was removed. 
     

     
     
    BH S80 liberally applied....
     

     
     
    Outer sill drilled for plug welds and zinc primed.....  I've said it before but the OEM BMW sill panel really is a quality item.
     

     
     
    After allowing the zinc coat to dry the panel was tacked into position 
     

     
     
    ....and the door briefly refitted to check alignment and gaps..
     

     
     
    ....and welded. Very slow and patient to avoid distortion.
     

     
     
    And the money shot.... all welds were cleaned off, again slowly.  You can still distort with too much heat during the cleaning off process. However, the key difference here is the location of the lifting pad. Structural rigidity now completely restored.
     

     
     
    A view along the sill. I was happy with the outcome.
     

     
     
    All completed on this side. Just a skim of filler and paint required to finish the task.
     

     
     
    Next visit will land us back to where we started, the o/s rear corner, which was as usual turned out much more involved in the end
     
    More soon.
     
  8. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Keliuss in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Thanks to all for the kind words in regards to this thread. It's much appreciated.
     
    Yes, I am 'in the trade' but not in the retail sector. More fleet based.
     
    The time taken to complete the necessary repairs was high. As mentioned by sten, you've got to know what your getting involved with. If you got a full time job, plus family commitments then it can be challenging. You also need a fair amount of room around the car and if you don't have access to a lift it will be that much more difficult overall.  If your paying for a restoration similar to what I have achieved, then prepare to open your wallet.....wide. However, if it's something rare or sought after it may be less of a financial penalty, but I doubt it would add significant value to those examples.
     
    @Sten  you stated that your car had previously been repaired. Did you find evidence that this was actually the case? Nice save btw.
     
  9. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Keliuss in The e34 rear sill thread   
    So, a small update...
     
    With the structural welding repairs done, there were a few things to do to complete the job.
     
    Firstly, I decided to refit the onboard 'wind up jack' brackets to the repaired area of the front sills. The klokkerholm panels do not have these attached, but the rear OEM BMW sills do have them. It's debatable whether they're really required or not but to keep appearances I went for it.
     
    After a clean up they were refitted and plug welded on.....
     

     
     
    I immediately decided to apply the rubberised external coating......
     
    Firstly to the dummy floor area and the rear of the inner wheel arch...
     

     
     
    And the full sill after a final tidy.....
     

     
     
    Here's a close up of the finish, pretty close to OEM. The level of finish is determined by the air pressure and how close the application gun is held to the surface.
     

     
     
    I also gave both of the lower wing repairs a thorough coating internally.
     

     
     
    And finally the area directly behind the lower wing. 
     

     
     
    The final task was to inject cavity wax protection into all repaired areas. Copious amounts of dinitrol ML was used. More on this next time.
     

     
     
    Cavity waxing really should be undertaken at the end of any resto after paint.
     
    Next time we'll get back to the subject of drainage and a few other things that may be of interest.
     
     
     
     
  10. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Keliuss in The e34 rear sill thread   
    So, a small update...
     
    With the structural welding repairs done, there were a few things to do to complete the job.
     
    Firstly, I decided to refit the onboard 'wind up jack' brackets to the repaired area of the front sills. The klokkerholm panels do not have these attached, but the rear OEM BMW sills do have them. It's debatable whether they're really required or not but to keep appearances I went for it.
     
    After a clean up they were refitted and plug welded on.....
     

     
     
    I immediately decided to apply the rubberised external coating......
     
    Firstly to the dummy floor area and the rear of the inner wheel arch...
     

     
     
    And the full sill after a final tidy.....
     

     
     
    Here's a close up of the finish, pretty close to OEM. The level of finish is determined by the air pressure and how close the application gun is held to the surface.
     

     
     
    I also gave both of the lower wing repairs a thorough coating internally.
     

     
     
    And finally the area directly behind the lower wing. 
     

     
     
    The final task was to inject cavity wax protection into all repaired areas. Copious amounts of dinitrol ML was used. More on this next time.
     

     
     
    Cavity waxing really should be undertaken at the end of any resto after paint.
     
    Next time we'll get back to the subject of drainage and a few other things that may be of interest.
     
     
     
     
  11. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Keliuss in The e34 rear sill thread   
    So, a small update...
     
    With the structural welding repairs done, there were a few things to do to complete the job.
     
    Firstly, I decided to refit the onboard 'wind up jack' brackets to the repaired area of the front sills. The klokkerholm panels do not have these attached, but the rear OEM BMW sills do have them. It's debatable whether they're really required or not but to keep appearances I went for it.
     
    After a clean up they were refitted and plug welded on.....
     

     
     
    I immediately decided to apply the rubberised external coating......
     
    Firstly to the dummy floor area and the rear of the inner wheel arch...
     

     
     
    And the full sill after a final tidy.....
     

     
     
    Here's a close up of the finish, pretty close to OEM. The level of finish is determined by the air pressure and how close the application gun is held to the surface.
     

     
     
    I also gave both of the lower wing repairs a thorough coating internally.
     

     
     
    And finally the area directly behind the lower wing. 
     

     
     
    The final task was to inject cavity wax protection into all repaired areas. Copious amounts of dinitrol ML was used. More on this next time.
     

     
     
    Cavity waxing really should be undertaken at the end of any resto after paint.
     
    Next time we'll get back to the subject of drainage and a few other things that may be of interest.
     
     
     
     
  12. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Mark Shutt in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Into the home straight ....
     
    With the N/s completed I moved onto the O/s..
     
    Just prior to this point, I had done more digging and was not at all happy with the area directly under the B post, where the hidden section of rear sill is located. It transpired that most of that area was also corroded. More cutting was required....
     
    The o/s Turned out to be much more complex to deal with.
     
    The complete area was again cleaned off and tidied. The small area of rust was ground back treated and primed.
     

     
     
    Again, the outer panel was placed over the edge of the old and marked and cut. Then it was drilled and prepared for fitting 
     

     
     
    Final prep, clean off and sealed with more S50...
     

     
     
    ...and clamped and tacked into position.....
     

     
     
    ....though I did make a mistake by not allowing enough expansion gap at the rear outer arch. It did catch me out later on..
     

     
     
    Fully welded into place...
     

     
     
    Structural strength restored enough to be supported by the lifting arm..
     

     
     
    Closing off rear wheel arch.
     

     
     
    And completed....almost
     

     
     
    Now all that was left.....
     

     
     
    The required area was cut from the redundant klokkerholm panel...
     

     
     
    And welded.
     

     
     
    Another minor overlook here. My horizontal cut was far too close to the lower swage line. 5-10 mm lower would have been much better and easier to deal with. I had to be very careful to avoid more issues during the cleaning off process.
     

     
     
    And fully completed and primed.
     

     
     
    And done...
     
    So, the major work was completed. Stand by, still a bit more to come folks..
  13. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from stevenc3828 in The e34 rear sill thread   
    So. Into the final furlong ..
     
    With the front end sill repairs done it was time to go back to the rear sills to complete.
     
    The inner sill join...
     

     
     
    Which was tidied up and sealed.
     

     
     
    A couple of days later, it was time to fit the outer panel. This was the area I most feared for getting it wrong since any major mistake would be visible.. 
     
    After trimming off the excess, the outer panel was placed into position and marked..
     

     
     

     
     
    Then clamped firmly into position...
     

     
     
    ...and then cut through both panels on the overlap with a 1mm cutting disc to leave this.. pretty much the ideal gap for welding.
     

     
     
    With the general dimensions in place, the panel was taken back off the car and marked for drilling. I tried and tried to get hold of a spot welder to give that professional look. But unfortunately it was not to be.
     

     
     
    Moving back to the car, the inner sill area was cleaned off and tidied. All excess weld and other detritus was removed. 
     

     
     
    BH S80 liberally applied....
     

     
     
    Outer sill drilled for plug welds and zinc primed.....  I've said it before but the OEM BMW sill panel really is a quality item.
     

     
     
    After allowing the zinc coat to dry the panel was tacked into position 
     

     
     
    ....and the door briefly refitted to check alignment and gaps..
     

     
     
    ....and welded. Very slow and patient to avoid distortion.
     

     
     
    And the money shot.... all welds were cleaned off, again slowly.  You can still distort with too much heat during the cleaning off process. However, the key difference here is the location of the lifting pad. Structural rigidity now completely restored.
     

     
     
    A view along the sill. I was happy with the outcome.
     

     
     
    All completed on this side. Just a skim of filler and paint required to finish the task.
     

     
     
    Next visit will land us back to where we started, the o/s rear corner, which was as usual turned out much more involved in the end
     
    More soon.
     
  14. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Mark Shutt in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Into the home straight ....
     
    With the N/s completed I moved onto the O/s..
     
    Just prior to this point, I had done more digging and was not at all happy with the area directly under the B post, where the hidden section of rear sill is located. It transpired that most of that area was also corroded. More cutting was required....
     
    The o/s Turned out to be much more complex to deal with.
     
    The complete area was again cleaned off and tidied. The small area of rust was ground back treated and primed.
     

     
     
    Again, the outer panel was placed over the edge of the old and marked and cut. Then it was drilled and prepared for fitting 
     

     
     
    Final prep, clean off and sealed with more S50...
     

     
     
    ...and clamped and tacked into position.....
     

     
     
    ....though I did make a mistake by not allowing enough expansion gap at the rear outer arch. It did catch me out later on..
     

     
     
    Fully welded into place...
     

     
     
    Structural strength restored enough to be supported by the lifting arm..
     

     
     
    Closing off rear wheel arch.
     

     
     
    And completed....almost
     

     
     
    Now all that was left.....
     

     
     
    The required area was cut from the redundant klokkerholm panel...
     

     
     
    And welded.
     

     
     
    Another minor overlook here. My horizontal cut was far too close to the lower swage line. 5-10 mm lower would have been much better and easier to deal with. I had to be very careful to avoid more issues during the cleaning off process.
     

     
     
    And fully completed and primed.
     

     
     
    And done...
     
    So, the major work was completed. Stand by, still a bit more to come folks..
  15. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Mark Shutt in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Into the home straight ....
     
    With the N/s completed I moved onto the O/s..
     
    Just prior to this point, I had done more digging and was not at all happy with the area directly under the B post, where the hidden section of rear sill is located. It transpired that most of that area was also corroded. More cutting was required....
     
    The o/s Turned out to be much more complex to deal with.
     
    The complete area was again cleaned off and tidied. The small area of rust was ground back treated and primed.
     

     
     
    Again, the outer panel was placed over the edge of the old and marked and cut. Then it was drilled and prepared for fitting 
     

     
     
    Final prep, clean off and sealed with more S50...
     

     
     
    ...and clamped and tacked into position.....
     

     
     
    ....though I did make a mistake by not allowing enough expansion gap at the rear outer arch. It did catch me out later on..
     

     
     
    Fully welded into place...
     

     
     
    Structural strength restored enough to be supported by the lifting arm..
     

     
     
    Closing off rear wheel arch.
     

     
     
    And completed....almost
     

     
     
    Now all that was left.....
     

     
     
    The required area was cut from the redundant klokkerholm panel...
     

     
     
    And welded.
     

     
     
    Another minor overlook here. My horizontal cut was far too close to the lower swage line. 5-10 mm lower would have been much better and easier to deal with. I had to be very careful to avoid more issues during the cleaning off process.
     

     
     
    And fully completed and primed.
     

     
     
    And done...
     
    So, the major work was completed. Stand by, still a bit more to come folks..
  16. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from Mark Shutt in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Into the home straight ....
     
    With the N/s completed I moved onto the O/s..
     
    Just prior to this point, I had done more digging and was not at all happy with the area directly under the B post, where the hidden section of rear sill is located. It transpired that most of that area was also corroded. More cutting was required....
     
    The o/s Turned out to be much more complex to deal with.
     
    The complete area was again cleaned off and tidied. The small area of rust was ground back treated and primed.
     

     
     
    Again, the outer panel was placed over the edge of the old and marked and cut. Then it was drilled and prepared for fitting 
     

     
     
    Final prep, clean off and sealed with more S50...
     

     
     
    ...and clamped and tacked into position.....
     

     
     
    ....though I did make a mistake by not allowing enough expansion gap at the rear outer arch. It did catch me out later on..
     

     
     
    Fully welded into place...
     

     
     
    Structural strength restored enough to be supported by the lifting arm..
     

     
     
    Closing off rear wheel arch.
     

     
     
    And completed....almost
     

     
     
    Now all that was left.....
     

     
     
    The required area was cut from the redundant klokkerholm panel...
     

     
     
    And welded.
     

     
     
    Another minor overlook here. My horizontal cut was far too close to the lower swage line. 5-10 mm lower would have been much better and easier to deal with. I had to be very careful to avoid more issues during the cleaning off process.
     

     
     
    And fully completed and primed.
     

     
     
    And done...
     
    So, the major work was completed. Stand by, still a bit more to come folks..
  17. Like
    FIVE-OH reacted to Bumbaclut in E34 Alpina B10 Bi turbo touring project   
    Oi oi, Carrying on with the gearbox theme. This getrag 290 fell onto my lap the other week.  It true bit of luck, its not what you know but who you know.  So 2 bi turbo boxes now!! News on the rust bucket box is it will live again.  Neil at all gears rang straight away when it arrived up there and said it will be fine.  The big input bearing is shagged and that was more likely the noise on idle than the rust on the gears. He thinks they have to be alot worse rust wise to be a problem.  He said he may change the 1st gear as thats the worst for a jag one he has spare. I know he is busy but he's had the box a month so i may ring this week see how he is getting on and when its back say i've got another one for you to look over!
     
     
     
    So while thats all been happening i've also been at the turbos
     
     




     
    Just like lego we have the turbos off.  They've been rebuilt in the past and i couldn't find notice any real bodge work. Ive done this once before on my old bi turbo its not very straight forward. As you can see i'll come to later lots of alpinaness here!
     
     
     
     
     

     
    A trip to these guys in Uxbridge. They rebuilt my old turbos on 445. The Turbos weren't knackered but when your in for a penny?  Had a good chat with the main man on the phone and when i walked in with the turbos he said "you must be the Bi turbo man" i said yes how do you know "i can tell by the turbos!"  So we agreed on a strip down and overhaul of anything needed.  An upgrade to 360 degree thrust washers from the standard 270 ones.  Again had this done on my old car.  My understanding is it makes the turbos more reliable and allows higher boost levels to be run if wanted.  He asked me a couple of times if i was keeping the car.   Yes i say as i can't afford now to get into another fast E34 ie an M5 or genuine Bi turbo as the prices are mental now.  So he suggested a little "mod"  
     
    Fitting a larger compressor wheel, so talked it over and my understanding is if* you wanted to turn up the wick later on this would allow it. Makes the turbo more reliable if boost is kept standard as. So i said yes
     
     
     

     
    Fast forward a couple of weeks and they're ready! This was mid lock down when traffic was non existent.  I drove on a friday after work to pick them up and was doing a steady 70mph round the M25 by the M4 on a friday afternoon! Very un normal
    Both turbos ok, one wastegate was fucked so an extra 50 quid for that.  A couple of tasty tweeked T25 turbos. ~The new compressor wheels are i think 2-3mm bigger diameter now same impeller design as standard. They gave me the old ones as "spares" for the garage wall of honour. The guys there reckon these are now safe to run up to 1.4 bar from the standard 0.8.  So what kind of power increase they could make who knows! They seem to think 500BHP plus range easy.  I've read the alpina injectors are ok in stock but need replacing if going down the more power route, as they working close to their safe limits. Same for the bi turbo fuel pump.  Then what can the clutch take?  Questions for a much later date!  If it ran at about 500bhp that would be interesting in an E34 to say the least. As a stock bi turbo is lairy car
     
     
     
    So onto re fitting, This isn't funny on the driveway, many fucks have been said.  Last time i did this i had the engine out on a stand and it was fiddly then. Theres nuts and bolts you can barely see let alone get a spanner on, but persevere we must!
     
     





     
    I had to clean up the scabs on the chassis leg before i fitted the heatsheild like the original cars have
     
     
     



     
    While there i also bought some heatsheild for the brake line thats rather close to the turbos. The original cars have this and a good idea as hot brakes aren't a good idea!
     
     
     


     
    New engine mounts as they were a bit grim, and some bashing to re straighten the heat shield.  Plus the funky custom engine mount this side for space for the front turbo
     
     
     





     
    All up ready to go, i bought all new high temp K nuts as i'm pretty sure thats original. Again my old car had these fitted. You only need 30 at £3-4 quid each lol.  Plus they are alot easier to use on the tricky ones as they're 10mm head instead of the 13mm chunky ones that had been used the last time the turbos where rebuilt
     
     

     
    new studs, again the originals were missing to my eyes and i know the OE ones are inconel which is rather expensive but hey ho inconel the new ones are! I did buy from alpina as last time needed 1 stud on 445 and was £27! So there are a few aftermarket suppliers in the correct size for more like £10 a stud
     
     

     
     
    One of the manifolds had bowed so my old man refaced it flat, was about 0.5mm which doesn't sound much but we need gas tight seals plus alot easier to fit.  These exhaust manifolds look cast iron but they aren't. They must be some funky high temp alloy as a magnet barely sticks to them. I wonder what they are made off
     
     


     
    Rear turbo on, it was a fucking nightmare to be honest. 
     
     
     


     
    One of the turbos wasn't lined up properly after they were rebuilt so i had to reclock it as such so all the oil and coolants lines fitted/lined up. It was about 90 degrees out. I only noticed building them up and after alot of head scratching and looking through pictures worked it out. Which meant bolting it on, loosening the bolts that hold the core together and moving the middle of the turbo where the gubbins go so its fits properly. So on and off a couple of times as i couldn't re tighten everything with the turbo on the car. So off tighten the bits and then refit. Just like Haynes manuals say.  Got it done so all is good really 
     
     
     


     
    And finally front turbo on, all the sheilds etc.  Quite a fuckfest.   After all that i kind of feel sorting the rest out for MOT isn't so bad, well maybe refitting the gearbox will be horrid as it always is on the driveway.
     
     
    I feel like i can see the light now on this big jigsaw. My goal in my head is to hopefully be MOT by my birthday in September as that will be a big milestone on this bloody thing and 3 years into owning it!  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  18. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from coupe king in The e34 rear sill thread   
    A small update.
     
    So continuing with the repairs..
     

     
    Taking an ever so slightly different approach on this side, the original outer section of the outer front section being not seriously corroded was cleaned off ready for reuse. The beginnings of the closing piece was made up and placed in position to check for fit.
     
     

     
    This is the closing piece tacked....
     
     

     
    ....and the whole lot welded. Just starting to clean off here also.
     
     

     
    Fully cleaned off and primed.
     
     

     
    Dummy floor refitted and sealed. I used an generic 3m seam sealer on this job. However, unlike a lot of their products, I didn't particularly rate it. Didn't go on that great and went off a little bit too quickly.
     
     

     
    Throttle pedal mount fitted......
     
     

     
    ...Resealed and primed...
     
     

     
    ...and a thin covering of paint applied.
     
    With that completed, all four corners internally were now complete. Next time the rear outer w/arches and associated areas will be fitted to complete what became a long drawn out affair.
  19. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from coupe king in The e34 rear sill thread   
    A bit more...
     
    At this point, I started to sort out various minor issues related to the resto.  First up was that nasty patch of rust on the o/s inner wing/rail.
     
    After cleaning off the surrounding under seal I was left with this...
     

     
     
    All corrosion was duly cut out. Turned out to be fairly localised.
     

     
     
    Then a simple repair piece was shaped....after consulting the other side of the car for guidance...
     

     
     
    But before welding it in, the inside of the rail was cleaned up as best as possible and then coated with more s80
     

     
     
    Then welded...
     

     
     
    Followed by another piece to cover..
     

     
     
    Completed, if a little untidy.
     

     
     
    ..and sealed.
     

     
     
    That sorted it was time for the T pedal mount.
     
    So starting with a piece of 3mm plate...initially I thought it not entirely suitable due to it having a chunk missing out of it, but it was the only piece I could find. Ultimately it worked out well.
     

     
     
    After a bout in the press I was left with this...
     

     
     
    ....and after a bit of cutting and grinding...
     

     
     
    ...It was tacked...
     

     
     
    And fully welded...
     

     
     
    After cleaning off, the left leg was repositioned to corresponded with the step in the floorpan. Experienced welders will spot immediately the minor mistake/oversight to this particular weld.
     

     
     
    The completed article.
     

     
    More soon
  20. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from coupe king in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Pressing on. Much more than a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel, as they say...
     
    With most of the rot gone...
     

     
    ..... I started fabricating pieces...
     

     
    ...firstly the floorpan repair section...
     
     

     
    ...Then the Inner sill shaped and tacked...
     
     

     
    ....while outer sill section was also cut to shape.
     
     

     
    Floor repair tacked into position.....
     
     

     
    ...Followed by starting to fully weld inner repair...
     
     

     
    ...followed immediately by fully welding the floor.
     
     

     
    Inner sill repair completed. Just now to clean it off.
     
     
     

     
    My solution for the jacking point was to majorly modify a rear strengthener. Not quite original but let's face it, who sees it once closed up?  I did have to add the two little legs to allow full contact with the outer sill section....
     
     

     
    ...that was fitted next. 
     
    More soon.
     
  21. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from coupe king in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Time to continue....
     
    Someone asked me if I enjoyed 'all that welding'. Well it can be pain as some of you know, but tbf it made a change from the usual day job. Luckily I was in a position that if it got too much, I could walk away from it and leave it be. I learnt so much from the experience, and gained so much more confidence that other projects I have that I would more than likely have sub'd out, I will now do myself.
     
    The only real negative is the time factor. It takes long to do a good job imo. One of the reasons welding and car restorations in general cost so much.
     
    Anyways..
     

     
    It was clear that there was a serious problem when I attempted to remove the throttle pedal and it came off in my hand!
     
     

     
    After pulling back the carpet all was revealed..
     
     

     
    The outside didn't give me cause for any optimism....or an easy job.
     
     

     
    From the other side 
     

     
    Work cut out then.....
     
     

     
    Firstly the dummy floor was unstitched and removed. The rust patch to the right was also fully exposed at this point. Tbf it had been there for years but it had to go. We'll leave that to later, along with the pedal mount and other small items.
     

     
    With the dummy floor removed the extent of the rot was fully exposed. Not the end of the world but an inconvenience nevertheless.
     
     

     
    After a few days, with everything dried out and cleaned up to assess the damage and plan the way forward . There is barely any connection between the floorpan and sill.
     
    I decided to cut the floor out first then build the inner sill up and then fab and fit a new floor section.
     

     
    Here I've cut out the required areas ready for a repair section. Jeez that sill was rotten...
     
     

     
    In the meantime I started on the sill repair. Again this section was still fairly sound requiring only a good grinding back to bright and capable of being reused.
     
     
    After some heavy cutting.....
     

     
    Everything was heavily corroded including the lifting point. By far worse then the n/s. The drain tube is clearly visible in the centre of the image.
     
     

     
    Note the the profile of the jacking point. Couldn't salvage it unfortunately.
     
    With the majority of corrosion removed it was time to start fabricating....
     
    More soon.
  22. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from coupe king in The e34 rear sill thread   
    So, movin on to the n/s/f sill section.....
     
     

     
    From the outside it was obvious remedial work was necessary.....
     
     

     
    ...But from the inside it was clear the rot was extensive. Note the 3/8th extension pushed through from the outside, at the top of the image. Also the actual floor itself had been distorted upwards, again due to incorrect use of a trolley jack way back in the distant past.
     

     
    View from underneath. What's left of the three drain exits are visible, but clogged with debris.
     
     

     
    Here's the view after the first cut. Inner sill gone, dummy floor damaged. However, the cut section first removed was basically sound, only needing a good cleaning off and was suitable for reuse.
     
     

     
    Here, I've removed the dummy floor.....
     
     

     
     
    .....and a portion more of the outer sill, revealing the heavily corroded jacking point strengthener.
     

     
    Another image of the problem area from inside after a little clearing.....
     

     
    ..and after the rot has been cut out..
     

     
    ..and with a simple right angled repair plate welded into position. The floor itself was reshaped back to it's original shape
     

     
    Here, the first of two inner sill repair sections is tacked into place. Jack strengthener now removed.
     
     

     
     2nd section marked and shaped..
     

     
    ..clamped and tacked..
     

     
    ..and welded. I was a bit pissed off with the whole job by now and it shows with me being lazy and not shaping the rear section correctly and having to infill that small triangular section at the top.
     
    I was using a fairly powerful, but old machine that unfortunately was quite temperamental throughout the job. At times it would run perfectly but at others it could be a real pain. Settings-wise, I tended weld on the minimum setting with a suitable wire speed for the material being welded, i.e. 1.0mm sheet steel,  but still had to go slow to avoid blowing through.
     
     
    Now a view from the rear. I actually made a major mistake here and had to modify it later on. I did not allow for enough depth. Not bad welding penetration if I can say so myself.
     

     
     
    A word on the jacking point strengtheners. They are not the same front to rear, so some improvisation may be need. Over time I had collected a few rear strengtheners so cutting a few up got me a repaired piece I could use.
     
    A bit of jiggery pokery.. 
     

     
    Eventually got me this.
     

     
     
    Heres the area after cleaning off, just prior to replacing the jacking point. Note the three cut outs for the water drains.
     

     
     
    Reusing the outer section, the forward most section of the sill was formed...
     

     
     
    I had already decided to use the klokkerholm sills (I had previously purchased) for the outer repair, so this was cut to shape...wing refitted to check for fit, etc.  A tiny bit of fettling was required to get the wing to sit just right.
     

     
     
    Repaired jacking point welded into position and cleaned off.
     

     
     
    Fully primed....
     

     
     
    More BH s80 applied.....
     

     
     
    Outer section welded into place. The bottom of the jacking point must contact the top of the horizontal section of the repair piece.
     

     
     
    Even more s80 applied liberally. The shape of the klokkerholm section meant I modified my original closing panel.
     

     
     
    Original outer forward section welded back into position..
     

     
     
    Revised fabricated closing piece....
     

     
     
    ...goes in here to close off...
     

     
     
    ..and fully cleaned off and primed.
     

     
     
    From the rear. My previous mistake rectified. The two cut outs are for the spire clips for the lower wing mountings. I'd advise additional sealant to be added here when completed.
     

     
     
    Finally a small repair to the dummy floor. Wasn't at all happy with it's condition, so repaired. I believe both sides dummy floors are still available new from your local dealer.
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
    And refitted.
     

     
     
    Job jobbed on this corner.
     
    Next time we tackle the o/s and very necessary, extensive floor repairs.
     
  23. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from coupe king in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Pressing on....
     
    Firstly an interesting shot.
     

     
    The three panels that join to form the bottom seam of the sills. From L to R, outer sill, inner sill, floor pan. Very strong method of construction. The gap to the right of centre to be filled in later.
     
    Anyways... A few weeks later it's time to fit the inner sill.
     
    Here's what it looks like (and unfortunately NLA both sides)
     

     
     
    Firstly all required spot welds drilled..
     

     
     
    And inner sill removed. Note stiffener bracket now in place. The two 13mm bolts for the forward suspension braces bolt in here.
     

     
     
    Plenty of BH S50...
     

     
     
    With the car on its wheels, the inner sill is tacked into position...
     

     
     
    ...and fully welded...
     

     
     
    ..and covered off for the time being in BH electrox.
     

     
     
    I decided to leave the outer sill fitment to the very last. With the rear sills now 90% complete, I moved on to the N/S front....
     

     
     

     
    Says it all....
     
    I decided to repair the original wing. Original wings always seem to fit better than repro items and they only tend to rot at the lower sill section. I had cleaned up this area some 8yrs previously but as can be seen, it was now heavily corroded. I had a old spare wing hanging about that was a pattern and a bit scruffy, but solid. So got to work.
     
    The lower section as usual was completely gone. Only the under seal was holding it together....
     

     
     
    Here it's cut, joined and tacked...
     

     
     
    ...Welded and partially cleaned off. A small skim of filler would be to finish if necessary. However the trim disguises any anomaly.
     

     
    So that was the wing done. Plenty more to do.
     
    Next time we get deep into e34 front sills and floor repairs.
  24. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from coupe king in The e34 rear sill thread   
    So to continue.
     
    With all rot now cut out it was time to start reconstructing. All salvaged pieces were fettled and tidied though I did have to make some minor repairs.
     

     
    Rear floor section. Note profile shape.
     
    I wasn't happy with the salvaged section of inner wheelarch so repaired that. Luckily, I was able to retain the profile of the  section so a fairly straightforward repair.
     
    Poor section cut out....

     
    Repaired and partially cleaned off.
     

     
     
    Also a small repair to the inner sill itself 
     

     
     

     
     

     
    ...and cleaned off.
     
     
    With that done, it was time to start building up 
     

     
     
     

     
     

     
    Floor section installed.....
     
    Then onto.....
     
    ...Rear wheelhouse lower repair section. This piece/area is usually damaged due to incorrect jack placement when lifting the car.
     

     
    And welded..
     

     
     
    Then the repaired, rear inner wheel arch lower section clamped in place and cut.
     

     
     
     

     
    Tacked....
     

     
    And welded.
     
     
     

     
     
    Rear suspension bracket fitted in place to double check fitment. All lined up perfectly.
     
  25. Like
    FIVE-OH got a reaction from coupe king in The e34 rear sill thread   
    Towards the end of 2016 I began to try and source the required panels for the repair. New for all realistically was out of the question. The outer sill/wheel arch, inner sill, lower inner wheel arch, and a section of floor were all required, 
     
    So after a few weeks looking in various breakers yards and dismantlers with no success, by chance I came across a late model 525 in Hemel Hempstead, just in, complete and fairly clean. It had apparently failed its annual MOT and whoever owned it just couldn't be bothered with it any longer.  I unfortunately missed this car by a matter of a few hours. By the time I seen it, it was already doomed, having been bought to be stripped of engine and g'box, all it's running gear, opening panels and wings to be shipped to Eastern Europe. I would have happily smoked around in it had I got to it in time. High mileage but plenty of life in it. A bit of a shame.
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
    After a thorough inspection of the rear sills and finding them to be in exceptionally good condition, I arranged with the staff to have them cut out completely. I'll admit. I moaned when quoted £85 for the pair but in the end it was money more than well spent. Also, to be fair to them, with the time and effort it would have taken, plus the gas used, the quoted price was more than fair. 
     
    I immediately began to unstitch the welds to salvage what was needed. One side was pretty much perfect but the other did have some corrosion that did require repair.... Without these inner sections the job would have become unviable on grounds of cost imo. Also only one side inner sill was available from BMW at the time. Nowadays, both sides are NLA.
     

     
     
    I had started on the o/s but and I'll come back to that side later ..
     
    Now the real work begins 
     

     
    First cut.
     

     
    Same story....
     

     
     

     
    Seen clearly here is the drain tube for the sunroof. Too short in length imo. Should go down to the very bottom of the sill to channel water straight out of the drains.
     

     
    Heavy rot on floor section.
     

     
    More cutting..   plenty more of this forthcoming.
     

     
    Rear section of inner sill and rear inner lower wheel arch fully exposed. The 'brown' areas speak for themselves..
     

     
    Heavily corroded floor section. Completely rotten. Mounting for rear brackets about to give way. This area is behind the inner sill.
     

     
     
     

     
    That little spot of rust...
     

     
    ...Turned out to be much more deep seated...
     

     
    Here, the majority of rot has been cut out, though it still looks awful. It's basically all sound steel.
     

     
    Same location after a thorough cleaning up with a knot wheel. 
     
     
    The n/s/r corner was by far the hardest to tackle. All the wiring inside the car in the vicinity of the repair needed to be moved due to the risk of burning and to provide additional access. The external fuel pipes also should be removed, but I got round that by covering them with some aluminium plating and being very careful. I used bilt hambers excellent electrox zinc rich primer to coat. 
     
    I purchased the superb (imo) OEM BMW rear outer sill/wheelarch sections  part# 41 00 8181 707/8.   Readily available if a little pricey.
     
    So far I'd only been cutting. In the next part I will be preparing the salvaged inner panels and welding them into position. 
     
    More soon.
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