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FIVE-OH

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FIVE-OH last won the day on July 14 2020

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  1. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Not quite today but plenty of time spent on it directly & indirectly over the last 12mths give or take and rather a lot over the last eight wks.. So.. where am I now with this car? After an eventful year, I’m pleased to say much much closer to the finish line. Various issues both unavoidable and of my own doing slowed down progress and the pandemic absolutely hasn’t helped at all. In short we’ve had an complete engine change that turned out to only be partially successful (kinda my fault), ultimately neccessitating a fully overhauled and refreshed cylinder head assembly having to be fitted. I also took the opportunity to try another g/box I had, that I had acquired untested some time ago and also a replacement steering box, which upon other discoveries may possibly not have been needed.. The complete front suspension was on its last, so I bit the bullet and replaced virtually the lot. All control arms replaced, struts refurbished, new wheel bearings, top mounts, shims, ARB drop links, backplates, the lot, with upgraded components where necessary. Bilstein B8 were the dampers of choice this time, though I did retain the current road springs, though also fully refurbished. A 25mm front ARB was also fitted with new bushes and brackets. Two new track rods were installed also. The front brake calipers were completely refinished and rebuilt inc new pistons & seals, to go with new brake discs and pads as a matter of course. Plenty to keep me busy… As usual, even during these strange times, I just find it difficult to find the time and admittedly sometimes the motivation to get on with things and additionally, when the (growing) family fleet also needs attention from time to time its easy to procrastinate. Anyways, enough of moaning…Here’s a few shots.. The cylinder head……Almost fully built up here, just waiting for new exhaust studs. Major works included valve guides on the EX side, all valves & seats cut, ports fully decarbonised and the casting itself pressure tested and lightly skimmed. Front & rear suspension, built up ready to go on the car. I decided not to go for full rose joint or poly uppers, it is after all primarily a street car. I settled on e34 M5 control bushes as against the previous 750 bushes I had previously fitted. The M5 bushes being much more substantial than the 750’s. The original engine is hiding in disgrace under the sheets…. It will live to fight another day….. Front calipers with new pistons. 540 spec in this case.. proper epoxy finish not powder. Rear struts fitted.. Front strut assembly in place. E31 lower arms fitted, removing more rubber from the front end. I have heard the lower arms are NLA aftermarket, only BMW. After the suspension was all fitted i decided to set up some basic alignment angles. Unfortunately the relatively basic (but accurate) equipment I had available was not compatible with the e34 rear arch shape quirk, requiring that the car be slightly supported to be able to get the equipment to fit in place on the tyre and not foul the arch..… As on any car with adjustable rear suspension, this must be set to centreline spec before the front is adjusted. So basically in this case everything is set to parallel, just until I can take it for a full four wheel alignment where the measuring heads are attached directly to the outer face of the wheel. ….and finally the front So not far to go now. At this very moment all the headlights and grills are off the car for cleaning, treating and new hardware including all new adjusters. Then some minor repairs to the rear silencer, refit some external trim and the rear seat squab. I’ll have to paint it at some point to have it really nice though. All this time knocking about has taken its toll with various dings, marks, damaged lacquer and other issues. Frustrating but… And finally, when everything else is done, fit the fully refurbed wheels & tyres, then an MOT (pretty much a formality I’d imagine) then it’s ready for a shake down. It’s begging for some mileage. Been way too long now.
  2. FIVE-OH

    Shocks/Springs or Coilovers

    I think you might struggle not to rub with the 10j wheels on the rear if you go lower. I doubt those spacers are really necessary for the street. Ok if you're stupid low but 30-50mm with refreshed bushings and careful selection of tyre should avoid serious bumpsteer. If you do get touching at the rear arches then a change in tyre side wall profile might help, but with 265 your choices are limited. Btw.. I'm going up to a 9.5j wheel with a 255 tyre. I don't envisage any issues with rubbing.
  3. FIVE-OH

    Shocks/Springs or Coilovers

    I myself, have recently fitted the ubiquitous bilstein b8 sprint dampers, though unfortunately I can’t give any feedback as to how they ride/perform as yet. I chose the fit them with the spax springs already in use but suitably refurbished. First impressions are that they are very firm….but I expected that. Initially the ride height appeared higher than I expected but with some movement around the yard it has dropped substantially though not quite yet to the level previous with the spax dampers. I carried out the damper replacement in conjunction with a FULL front end overhaul, to go with the rear end I did a while ago. The only original components pretty much are the strut bodies and the ABS sensors…. Now. In regards to part No’s, I’m not sure how old the OP’s car is but my car was built just on the cusp of the 1990 works summer shutdown so has the older e32 style top mounts and the larger 97mm w/bearings. If so desired, now is the time to perhaps move to the later style of top mount/damper. With the confusion on top mounts etc, It is better to perhaps buy whatever style of dampers that are required and then purchase top mounts to suit. Having said that I believe the early style mounts to be superior to both later types, but the earlier hardware is now more limited (and expensive) to get hold of. Incidentally, people say you can’t use lowering springs on standard shocks but I disagree. If 25% lower springs are used on standard height shocks all that occurs is a loss of 25% damper stroke. Hardly the end of the world imo. I did consider the koni set up but they could only supply for later type top mounts. I also believe that the koni items are NLA now anyways, but don’t quote me on this.. If folks require it I can/will do a full thread on e34 front end rebuilds and more….
  4. FIVE-OH

    M30 vacuum hose diagram

    Assuming that it's an e32/34 spec M30b35, there are only two vacuum lines from base of intake manifold. One goes to the FPR and the other to the ccv elbow on the right side of the trunking between throttle body and airflow meter. E32 may possibly have additional ancilleries requiring vacuum.
  5. Sharky… Absolutely do it. I would stay with a HID setup rather than LED technology tho… I fitted a cheap generic kit some years ago and tbh never looked back. The issue with e34/32 headlights are that they are very small in diameter even though they were state of the art projector type lamps when released. The passage of time has also diminished light output significantly due to internal build up of dirt and deposits from the ultra hot incandescent bulbs. IIRC, I went for a 55w kit at 4300k colour which was more than sufficient. Fitting was fairly straightforward but I went for metal bodied ballast units which I tried to secure with double sided tape. I didn’t fancy drilling the body to secure the ballasts. The tape failed to adhere so the ballasts were left loose somewhere suitable and wedged. You may find it difficult to locate space to fit the required ballasts particularly with the V8 engine, but it is possible to have a completely stealth fitted set up. You will need 2x removable rear headlight caps as these need to be drilled to allow the wiring to & from the ballast's to pass through. It’s self explanatory but here’s a brief description of the procedure. 1, Taking the headlamp rear caps, drill a hole through the back. The original feed loom plug to the lamp remains unchanged, but the two wires inside the cap require the ends to be removed/cut off. What your effectively doing is interrupting the current flow at the cap, back out to the ballast and from there back to the headlight to the bulb. The grommet that should come in the kit should have provision for four wires to pass through. Again, two out to ballast and two back from ballast to bulb. Doing it this way simplifies installation and give a neater appearance. 2, Join the two just cut wires in the removable cap to the ‘in’ feed wires to the ballast. 3, Mount the HID bulbs in the headlight. Join the ballast output wiring directly to the bulb. (Via grommet) 4, Mount ballasts in preferred location and trial operation. Remember to connect original headlight loom plug to original location on rear cover caps. If all ok you’re done. I would say either to clean internals of original headlight or replace for maximum effectiveness. Also e34 headlight adjusters are notorious for their fiddly nature and a propensity to seize. I would advise new adjusters to enable easy headlight set up, about £70 from BMW new for all four headlights. Also I’d obtain a spare HID bulb in case of failure or damage. When setting your beam level, I would set them ever so slightly lower than standard and ensure that the throw is set to the n/s sufficiently. I know you mentioned the aspects of legislation but I firmly believe that it’s a grey area. I’ve never had a problem on an MOT test and neither would I personally fail a hid retrofitted headlight with the correct projector lens equipped units as long as the beam pattern and level is all in order. It’s a case imo of the law being a bit of an ass because the installation of HID’s in the correct type of projector headlight is by far safer for the driver and other road users, though I understand why the law does frown on them. However, I got my retinas barbecued the other night by some modern 4x4 with I assume LED type lighting, downright dangerous in my view…. But they legal… Go figure…. One final point. If you have headlight washers specified, it may be a good idea to ensure the system is fully operational as a bonus.
  6. FIVE-OH

    Oil Flush? Low pressure

    Indeed....and here's a link to the fix. Applies to b35 in this case http://web.archive.org/web/20060222051006/http://e32fixes.com/results.asp?method=show_fix&fixid=5
  7. FIVE-OH

    Oil Flush? Low pressure

    I also use a semi synth oil, usually a 10w/40, 5w/30 being too thin for these motors imo. Anyways... I would check the banjo bolts as a matter of course, but it's unlikely they loose if not long done, but not impossible. Personally I would be looking closely at the oil filter housing assembly as particularly the early ones were known to develop an internal fault with the non return valve which allowed the oil to run back to the sump when the motor is at rest. The pick up gauze in the sump could quite possibly be blocked but again unlikely if maintenance has been kept up. The sensor in the sump is for oil level, with the oil pressure sensor at the rear of the cylinder head on the intake side. Usually quite reliable but worth a visual check. If its leaking it will be obvious.
  8. FIVE-OH

    Headliner fabric source?

    I can’t speak for anyone else but I can definitely say that the headlining panel will come out of the rear doors, once the front seats have been fully reclined or removed. I have completed this task twice previously without any major issues. I’m also unaware where there is any internal trim on e34 that requires the screen to be removed. All internal trim is clipped into place and easily removed. A colour change from grey to black (or any colour) is always an option, the only problem being the black handles (and any other hard plastics also required to be black) are seriously difficult if not impossible to come by. However, with the passage of time, more and more products & options are appearing that may prove possible to achieve a colour change easily and effectively. In regards to flocking I personally wouldn’t do it but it’s a personal choice. The application the vehicle is used in also plays a major part in the decision making. I would rather trim with full leather/alcantara or similar. You pays your money…….
  9. FIVE-OH

    Headliner fabric source?

    No it’s not. Will come out the rear doors with the front seats removed or fully reclined.
  10. FIVE-OH

    M20 Manual Gearbox stuck fast!

    A very annoying situation but one I've come across a few times. Are you sure all the bolts around the bell housing have been removed and are all intact? As stated above, It's possible that the release bearing is catching up on the gearbox input shaft nose cone or locked to the cover diaphragm spring for some reason. It is also possible that the spigot bearing has seized on the end of input shaft, Which I think more likely. If the latter you'll need to try to open the gap between engine and box as wide as possible to get a cranked spanner or 1/4 drive socket and unwind/remove the pressure plate bolts, not easy but possible if hex head bolts but if torx or allen style, much more difficult. Be sure there are no cover plates or sensors jamming the gearbox from removing easily. If it is the release bearing friction welded to the cover, then it's time to get medieval with it. It looks like the clutch arm locating arrangement is the usual spring type so I'd release that fixed end retaining clip to allow more movement to lever/wriggle the gearbox out. I'd agree on the supporting of the car. Some added insurance would be very wise.
  11. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Steven. Hi mate, long time... Ideally, you really want to get them to seat all the way in. Luckily for me I had the beam on a press so it was fairly easy to do so. I always use some kind of soap as lube to assist on rubber bodied bushes. However, many years ago, i installed some using the weight of the car and a bottle Jack. I did end up with a gap between the lip of the bush and the frame, perhaps 5mm or so but It didn't cause me an issue going forward. In short if you can, get them all the way in. But if there is a small gap as long as they secure in the beam they'll be ok.
  12. Quite an interesting question.. The phenomenon of popular motors disappearing over time has always been inevitable. There is still loads of ‘barnfind’ stuff laying dormant in lockup’s and garages all over the country. Vehicles of all marques, some viable and others suitable only for scrap, it does depend on the perceived value pre & post resto. Natural wastage such as accident damage and write offs plays a part, as does the previously mentioned issue of cars being plundered for their engines. Also in recent years, plenty of very decent cars were also bought up and shipped to Eastern Europe for further use or parts. General wear and tear, MOT failures, a lack of desirability and downright ‘knackardness’, cull off a few more.. Bear in mind also the U.S. 25yr rule that allows direct importation of eligible vehicles (those that were never officially offered, intended for or sold in the United States) to brought in without any penalty. This doesn’t just apply to high end Porsche, BMW or Benz, but also many even mundane cars. It operates on a rolling date basis so 1996 model year now in scope. However, due to the UK’s RHD status, vehicles from these shores are obviously less desirable in this instance for that particular market. The slightly unjustified war on petrol and diesel vehicles will cause many more once common cars to disappear further and faster than would normally be the case. An XJ6 Jaguar is a thing of beauty, particularly in series1 (deep grill) V12 form, but a nice ser3 4.2 or 5.3 wouldn’t be dismissed either... the ultimate in waftability....
  13. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    Hmmm... I really should see about closing off this thread.... Indeed, as mentioned previously, saloon and touring sills are identical. I can only advise that you be fully aware of the extent of any corrosion prior to purchasing to establish the suitability of what you intend to fit. If not going for OEM BMW (which is not always necessary) then the klokkerholm replacements are an excellent choice as an alternative but only if the rot is not too advanced. Do your research as to all options available and in requirement of your needs. Not wishing Ill of the task in hand but be prepared to cry if the rot turns out to be extensive.. Good luck.
  14. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    A happy new year to all. Though december was quite busy... A full update soon..
  15. FIVE-OH

    Tyre sidewall damage - safe to drive?

    No problem with that. Seen much worse go through test with similar damage. Although the rubber has come away there appears to be no cord showing so it's not illegal. If you can get hold of some vulcanising solution then I'd be inclined to bond it back into place.
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