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FIVE-OH last won the day on July 14 2020

FIVE-OH had the most liked content!

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  1. FIVE-OH

    M20 Manual Gearbox stuck fast!

    A very annoying situation but one I've come across a few times. Are you sure all the bolts around the bell housing have been removed and are all intact? As stated above, It's possible that the release bearing is catching up on the gearbox input shaft nose cone or locked to the cover diaphragm spring for some reason. It is also possible that the spigot bearing has seized on the end of input shaft, Which I think more likely. If the latter you'll need to try to open the gap between engine and box as wide as possible to get a cranked spanner or 1/4 drive socket and unwind/remove the pressure plate bolts, not easy but possible if hex head bolts but if torx or allen style, much more difficult. Be sure there are no cover plates or sensors jamming the gearbox from removing easily. If it is the release bearing friction welded to the cover, then it's time to get medieval with it. It looks like the clutch arm locating arrangement is the usual spring type so I'd release that fixed end retaining clip to allow more movement to lever/wriggle the gearbox out. I'd agree on the supporting of the car. Some added insurance would be very wise.
  2. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Steven. Hi mate, long time... Ideally, you really want to get them to seat all the way in. Luckily for me I had the beam on a press so it was fairly easy to do so. I always use some kind of soap as lube to assist on rubber bodied bushes. However, many years ago, i installed some using the weight of the car and a bottle Jack. I did end up with a gap between the lip of the bush and the frame, perhaps 5mm or so but It didn't cause me an issue going forward. In short if you can, get them all the way in. But if there is a small gap as long as they secure in the beam they'll be ok.
  3. Quite an interesting question.. The phenomenon of popular motors disappearing over time has always been inevitable. There is still loads of ‘barnfind’ stuff laying dormant in lockup’s and garages all over the country. Vehicles of all marques, some viable and others suitable only for scrap, it does depend on the perceived value pre & post resto. Natural wastage such as accident damage and write offs plays a part, as does the previously mentioned issue of cars being plundered for their engines. Also in recent years, plenty of very decent cars were also bought up and shipped to Eastern Europe for further use or parts. General wear and tear, MOT failures, a lack of desirability and downright ‘knackardness’, cull off a few more.. Bear in mind also the U.S. 25yr rule that allows direct importation of eligible vehicles (those that were never officially offered, intended for or sold in the United States) to brought in without any penalty. This doesn’t just apply to high end Porsche, BMW or Benz, but also many even mundane cars. It operates on a rolling date basis so 1996 model year now in scope. However, due to the UK’s RHD status, vehicles from these shores are obviously less desirable in this instance for that particular market. The slightly unjustified war on petrol and diesel vehicles will cause many more once common cars to disappear further and faster than would normally be the case. An XJ6 Jaguar is a thing of beauty, particularly in series1 (deep grill) V12 form, but a nice ser3 4.2 or 5.3 wouldn’t be dismissed either... the ultimate in waftability....
  4. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    Hmmm... I really should see about closing off this thread.... Indeed, as mentioned previously, saloon and touring sills are identical. I can only advise that you be fully aware of the extent of any corrosion prior to purchasing to establish the suitability of what you intend to fit. If not going for OEM BMW (which is not always necessary) then the klokkerholm replacements are an excellent choice as an alternative but only if the rot is not too advanced. Do your research as to all options available and in requirement of your needs. Not wishing Ill of the task in hand but be prepared to cry if the rot turns out to be extensive.. Good luck.
  5. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    A happy new year to all. Though december was quite busy... A full update soon..
  6. FIVE-OH

    Tyre sidewall damage - safe to drive?

    No problem with that. Seen much worse go through test with similar damage. Although the rubber has come away there appears to be no cord showing so it's not illegal. If you can get hold of some vulcanising solution then I'd be inclined to bond it back into place.
  7. FIVE-OH

    Cat STOLEN

    Sorry to hear of this unfortunate situation. It shouldn't be too difficult to replace if desired. Catalytic converters are never worthless. Even if its donkeys old, the precious metals are still in there. The (catalyst) metals don't absorb the toxic stuff but cause a chemical reaction that reduces or neutralizes them depending on the application. Even if the cat is poisoned, (for example with lead) it still contains the precious metals such as platinum and rhodium. The lead would coat the working surfaces so stopping the chemical reaction. At end of life these metals are extracted hence the value. Diesel DPF units Also have a value but for different reasons.
  8. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    Thanks to all for the kind words in regards to this thread. It's much appreciated. Yes, I am 'in the trade' but not in the retail sector. More fleet based. The time taken to complete the necessary repairs was high. As mentioned by sten, you've got to know what your getting involved with. If you got a full time job, plus family commitments then it can be challenging. You also need a fair amount of room around the car and if you don't have access to a lift it will be that much more difficult overall. If your paying for a restoration similar to what I have achieved, then prepare to open your wallet.....wide. However, if it's something rare or sought after it may be less of a financial penalty, but I doubt it would add significant value to those examples. @Sten you stated that your car had previously been repaired. Did you find evidence that this was actually the case? Nice save btw.
  9. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    So, a small update... With the structural welding repairs done, there were a few things to do to complete the job. Firstly, I decided to refit the onboard 'wind up jack' brackets to the repaired area of the front sills. The klokkerholm panels do not have these attached, but the rear OEM BMW sills do have them. It's debatable whether they're really required or not but to keep appearances I went for it. After a clean up they were refitted and plug welded on..... I immediately decided to apply the rubberised external coating...... Firstly to the dummy floor area and the rear of the inner wheel arch... And the full sill after a final tidy..... Here's a close up of the finish, pretty close to OEM. The level of finish is determined by the air pressure and how close the application gun is held to the surface. I also gave both of the lower wing repairs a thorough coating internally. And finally the area directly behind the lower wing. The final task was to inject cavity wax protection into all repaired areas. Copious amounts of dinitrol ML was used. More on this next time. Cavity waxing really should be undertaken at the end of any resto after paint. Next time we'll get back to the subject of drainage and a few other things that may be of interest.
  10. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    Into the home straight .... With the N/s completed I moved onto the O/s.. Just prior to this point, I had done more digging and was not at all happy with the area directly under the B post, where the hidden section of rear sill is located. It transpired that most of that area was also corroded. More cutting was required.... The o/s Turned out to be much more complex to deal with. The complete area was again cleaned off and tidied. The small area of rust was ground back treated and primed. Again, the outer panel was placed over the edge of the old and marked and cut. Then it was drilled and prepared for fitting Final prep, clean off and sealed with more S50... ...and clamped and tacked into position..... ....though I did make a mistake by not allowing enough expansion gap at the rear outer arch. It did catch me out later on.. Fully welded into place... Structural strength restored enough to be supported by the lifting arm.. Closing off rear wheel arch. And completed....almost Now all that was left..... The required area was cut from the redundant klokkerholm panel... And welded. Another minor overlook here. My horizontal cut was far too close to the lower swage line. 5-10 mm lower would have been much better and easier to deal with. I had to be very careful to avoid more issues during the cleaning off process. And fully completed and primed. And done... So, the major work was completed. Stand by, still a bit more to come folks..
  11. FIVE-OH

    Paint ID Advice Please

    Ok. The 317 is the general colour code, orient blue metallic in your case. The /5 refers to the variation in shade/depth for that or any particular standard colour. There is always a risk there will be a very subtle difference between two different panels from different vehicles with the same colour.
  12. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    @Keliuss Thanks for your interest. One of my primary objectives was to document the process so that others may benefit. It is my view that your typical Northern European e34 with moderate mileage will more than likely be harbouring some corrosion so it's an issue that will become more prevalent as time passes by. I will do a full rundown of all products that I used throughout the job. Most of it is easily available and not too dear to purchase either. As previously promised, I will give my thoughts and views on the pros & cons on the roof drain situation. I did very similar to what was shown in your link by extending the drain tubes, though I wasn't convinced to have the exit outside of the body panel.
  13. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    So. Into the final furlong .. With the front end sill repairs done it was time to go back to the rear sills to complete. The inner sill join... Which was tidied up and sealed. A couple of days later, it was time to fit the outer panel. This was the area I most feared for getting it wrong since any major mistake would be visible.. After trimming off the excess, the outer panel was placed into position and marked.. Then clamped firmly into position... ...and then cut through both panels on the overlap with a 1mm cutting disc to leave this.. pretty much the ideal gap for welding. With the general dimensions in place, the panel was taken back off the car and marked for drilling. I tried and tried to get hold of a spot welder to give that professional look. But unfortunately it was not to be. Moving back to the car, the inner sill area was cleaned off and tidied. All excess weld and other detritus was removed. BH S80 liberally applied.... Outer sill drilled for plug welds and zinc primed..... I've said it before but the OEM BMW sill panel really is a quality item. After allowing the zinc coat to dry the panel was tacked into position ....and the door briefly refitted to check alignment and gaps.. ....and welded. Very slow and patient to avoid distortion. And the money shot.... all welds were cleaned off, again slowly. You can still distort with too much heat during the cleaning off process. However, the key difference here is the location of the lifting pad. Structural rigidity now completely restored. A view along the sill. I was happy with the outcome. All completed on this side. Just a skim of filler and paint required to finish the task. Next visit will land us back to where we started, the o/s rear corner, which was as usual turned out much more involved in the end More soon.
  14. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    A small update. So continuing with the repairs.. Taking an ever so slightly different approach on this side, the original outer section of the outer front section being not seriously corroded was cleaned off ready for reuse. The beginnings of the closing piece was made up and placed in position to check for fit. This is the closing piece tacked.... ....and the whole lot welded. Just starting to clean off here also. Fully cleaned off and primed. Dummy floor refitted and sealed. I used an generic 3m seam sealer on this job. However, unlike a lot of their products, I didn't particularly rate it. Didn't go on that great and went off a little bit too quickly. Throttle pedal mount fitted...... ...Resealed and primed... ...and a thin covering of paint applied. With that completed, all four corners internally were now complete. Next time the rear outer w/arches and associated areas will be fitted to complete what became a long drawn out affair.
  15. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    Keliuss. The body drain holes were required during the manufacturing process to allow the hot dip solution to drain out after the dip and before the shell went into the first oven. I preferred the oem look and tbh, it would have taken more time to cut, prepare, weld in and grind off a repair section rather then the 20min or so knocking the bung itself, up. And also it wouldn't look near original. In regards to the drain tubes, I purchased a pair from the main dealer, cheap, unlike most of their stuff. They come pre-cut with a pre formed wider end. Measuring from the very bottom of the sill, I marked it off roughly level with the interior lamp and cut. The preformed end of the new tube was placed over the old. These tubes run in a narrow channel down from window level and then between the inner & outer wheel archs. It was quite tricky pushing them through as they did keep getting hung up in places, so I would suggest going oem as anything thicker may not go through. The front drain mod is well documented and straightforward to do, but those at the rear not so. There is nowhere imo, to route the drain pipes outside of the body, safely or neatly without compromising corrosion resistance or looks and the pipes need to be fitted after all welding is completed or they could be damaged by the heat. I will cover this in more detail soon