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FIVE-OH last won the day on January 23

FIVE-OH had the most liked content!

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  1. FIVE-OH

    hids are confusing

    That two pin female socket is your power in. Cut it off and join (as to your preference) as normal or obtain 2 Male plugs, though I doubt you'll have enough room inside the headlight for this. You may have the Male plugs already supplied in the kit. You'll also have to modify or cut off the terminals inside the cap for the yellow and brown wires. These are the two wires that will join to the two cut off from the 2 pin socket. Alternatively, cut off the oem yellow loom plug, and join direct to the wires at the 2 pin socket (from the kit). This negates the need for a join inside the cap. This method looses originality and is not as neat. Returning back to standard quickly is awkward also.
  2. FIVE-OH

    hids are confusing

    You won't find any generic HID kit that won't require some form of splicing. What your supposed to do is make a hole in the headlamp rear cap and using the grommet supplied with the kit, connect/splice the wiring in the cap to the the +/- wiring of the kit. These two wires will come back out of the lamp, down to the hid ballast unit and then back to the actual bulb in the headlight through the same grommet. Four wires in total are used and the original yellow loom plug connects in the same manner to the lamp cap as oem. In short the splice/join/connection is done inside the headlight at the cap. You should be able to complete if your handy, within an hour or so and with minimal tools required. No other way to do it I'm afraid unless you go bespoke. I would obtain two additional dipped beam backing caps to modify. Also, the connectors shown in your image are super seal IP67 connectors which are again a generic waterproof loom plug/connector. These may need to be cut off to effect the splice.
  3. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    Towards the end of 2016 I began to try and source the required panels for the repair. New for all realistically was out of the question. The outer sill/wheel arch, inner sill, lower inner wheel arch, and a section of floor were all required, So after a few weeks looking in various breakers yards and dismantlers with no success, by chance I came across a late model 525 in Hemel Hempstead, just in, complete and fairly clean. It had apparently failed its annual MOT and whoever owned it just couldn't be bothered with it any longer. I unfortunately missed this car by a matter of a few hours. By the time I seen it, it was already doomed, having been bought to be stripped of engine and g'box, all it's running gear, opening panels and wings to be shipped to Eastern Europe. I would have happily smoked around in it had I got to it in time. High mileage but plenty of life in it. A bit of a shame. After a thorough inspection of the rear sills and finding them to be in exceptionally good condition, I arranged with the staff to have them cut out completely. I'll admit. I moaned when quoted £85 for the pair but in the end it was money more than well spent. Also, to be fair to them, with the time and effort it would have taken, plus the gas used, the quoted price was more than fair. I immediately began to unstitch the welds to salvage what was needed. One side was pretty much perfect but the other did have some corrosion that did require repair.... Without these inner sections the job would have become unviable on grounds of cost imo. Also only one side inner sill was available from BMW at the time. Nowadays, both sides are NLA. I had started on the o/s but and I'll come back to that side later .. Now the real work begins First cut. Same story.... Seen clearly here is the drain tube for the sunroof. Too short in length imo. Should go down to the very bottom of the sill to channel water straight out of the drains. Heavy rot on floor section. More cutting.. plenty more of this forthcoming. Rear section of inner sill and rear inner lower wheel arch fully exposed. The 'brown' areas speak for themselves.. Heavily corroded floor section. Completely rotten. Mounting for rear brackets about to give way. This area is behind the inner sill. That little spot of rust... ...Turned out to be much more deep seated... Here, the majority of rot has been cut out, though it still looks awful. It's basically all sound steel. Same location after a thorough cleaning up with a knot wheel. The n/s/r corner was by far the hardest to tackle. All the wiring inside the car in the vicinity of the repair needed to be moved due to the risk of burning and to provide additional access. The external fuel pipes also should be removed, but I got round that by covering them with some aluminium plating and being very careful. I used bilt hambers excellent electrox zinc rich primer to coat. I purchased the superb (imo) OEM BMW rear outer sill/wheelarch sections part# 41 00 8181 707/8. Readily available if a little pricey. So far I'd only been cutting. In the next part I will be preparing the salvaged inner panels and welding them into position. More soon.
  4. FIVE-OH

    The e34 rear sill thread

    With the long winter nights well and truly upon us and with a bit of free time, I've decided to finally do a full thread on how I completed a rear full sill repair on my e34. I've had communication with various members looking for advice and I know there are a few forthcoming repair/restorations imminent. The purpose of this thread is to primarily help those about to go through such a task. With even the last e34's now approaching 25yrs old the one issue that dominates longevity is unfortunately corrosion. Although superbly designed, the e34 does still have areas that are vulnerable to rust with the sills, especially the rear, high on the list of common areas. Bearing in mind that the e34 5 series was possibly the last BMW to be built to traditional methods, it's the sills that contribute to the core strength of the chassis. I will say that although I can weld, I'm not a fully fledged 'body man' so to speak. My method of repair may be considered long winded, but it did ensure all traces of corrosion were eradicated. Here's a shot of the car just prior to the repair commencing. Not bad looking you might think.... So here goes... 2015 During the annual MOT the previous year the tester had remarked 'I'll give it to you this time, but next year, no chance!' in regards to the rear sills. So early in the summer I began to assemble what I thought I would require to complete the job, namely a pair of klokkerholm repair sills and some mild sheet steel. By mid summer I started on the car, naively estimating completion within 6-8wks...... As can be seen, the corrosion is obviously well established. Time to start cutting.... The first of well over a hundred spot welds to be drilled out. The real truth...... In the words of my friend on here Geoff (dongiov) when he had a similar experience...Ewww I knew it had rust, but at this level? To cut a long story short I spent the next few weeks attempting to make up a few repair sections but imo I failed. Towards the autumn I parked the car and began to ponder what to do with it. I realised early on that the klokkerholm sill panels whilst excellent in quality were not going to be suitable to complete the repair. Also it was clear the inner sills were rotten as well as the floor pan adjacent to the rear seat heel board. Great. Not only that! After a thorough inspection of the complete car, i finally realised that all four corners had serious corrosion at and around the jacking points, the wing bottoms had also rotted out, as well as a few areas needing attention. Devastated was an understatement. I parked the car up and abandoned it..... 2016 Not a great deal happened during the year. With a major house project and a child off to uni, it didn't leave much time or money for messing about with old BMW's, 2016 was in effect a wash out. It was the closest I came to giving up and scrapping it. But after 14yrs ownership I just couldn't quite bring myself to do that. The real work would began 2017. I don't particularly like the cold so from early November to late Feb it's rare to find me doing my own stuff unless strictly necessary. Although I have a double garage with ample hard standing at home, I wasn't in a position to do the work there. My place of employment was used instead but that meant the car had to be parked outside everytime I worked on it mostly during the evenings. Taking it in and out each time was a royal pita though. Would have been completed much faster otherwise. All comments are welcome. Look out for the next instalment in this mission soon.
  5. FIVE-OH

    Dampness in a freshly purchased e34

    Normally, excessive moisture inside the car would point to major water ingress usually as a result of corrosion. The real problem with the e34 is the foam backing to the carpets which acts as an excellent sponge, soaking up the water and retaining it. It does take a fair bit of time and effort to dry out this water especially if its a significant amount. If no floor or sill rot then look at the cooling system or trace the source of the leak by dousing the car with an hosepipe and inspecting.
  6. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Toe is done on the outer pick ups closest to the wheel and camber, the inner pick ups closest to the diff. If doing your fuel and brake lines also, it will be a doddle with the rear frame out of the way. However they not too bad to do with the frame in place anyways. Time wise it took me approx 10hrs but that included a full clean by hand of the underside and various other bits an pieces. Good luck.
  7. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Easily over 10 years ago now. I will say yet again that they were superb at the time and saved me having to paint it back then. Laser blue being a e30 shade is/was fairly rare on the e34, orient or royal blue being much more common. However a paint job is on the cards at some point in the future. Jeez, time flies.... Thanks. It does look rather pretty. I messed about deciding whether to go to the full length of rebuilding and to what level. In the end I just went for it, even though the cost in time and money was high. If doing something like this then plan well ahead.
  8. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    So... late september saw the fully refurbished rear end fitted successfully. Here's the rear end 95% completed, with just the cabling and rigid brake line runs to be tidied. Rear axle now featuring modification for adjustable camber & toe, with spherical (M5) trailing arm bushes, vented brakes with associated fully refurbished brake calipers and an 18mm rear anti roll bar. Every bush, bearing, link and boot were replaced with either genuine BMW or OEM standard aftermarket. Firstly, the diff unit removed.. Axle now ready to drop out... And fully removed... As can be seen, with many years of grim, oil stains and general filth, I had no option but to degrease and wash by hand, with unfortunately no chance of a pressure wash at that time. But ultimately I was happy at the lack of any significant areas of rot. Some small areas where corrosion was just starting to take hold were cleaned back to metal, treated and primed in preparation for a schultz coating. After cleaning of all the muck I realised the factory under seal is either grey or a very light beige. I had some grey schultz available so that was used to go over the suitably cleaned original coating that was still bonded well to the chassis frame. Not bad for a 28yr old motor that had seen some hard miles over the years. The extra unused (on early GB vehicles) vapour line up to the charcoal canister on catalyst equipped cars was finally completely discarded. The fuel and brake lines were replaced some time back but were still in fine general condition if a little scruffy looking. Fully under sealed. The triangular area adjacent to the rear axle mounting, especially fully cleaned up and sealed externally. New rear frame mounting fitted Here's the new rear end against the old. Next up was the fitting up of the axle. The cars original locking differential was left out and an open 210 unit fitted in its place. The plan is to open the original LSD for inspection and clutch plate refresh at a later date. The opportunity was also taken to replace the crusty fuel tank straps, and steam off the associated heat shielding. A final few shots of the installed rear suspension in place on the car. I'm still to do a final final shultz coating on the forward sections of the wheel arches but with the rear end phase finally complete i'm already now concentrating on the wheels and tyres next and then on to the front end of the car. Springs and dampers are also scheduled for renewal though not yet decided on spec, though it will be either the ubiquitous bilstein set up or possibly koni's. Here are the wheels ready to go off for a refurb. Upgrading from a square set to staggered, so using the best pair of 8.5j from my original square set along with the two 9.5j from the staggered set acquired some time ago. Need to organise some tyres also so the refurbers can fit them on completion, so saving me a (risky) job on the equipment available to me. Then it just needs a bit of tax to be fully road legal once more. I'm so looking forward to enjoying this car again. Look out for a massive thread soon on my sill repair saga in full detail..
  9. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    A bit of a running report on this one. Early august saw it in for MOT which was successful. Having said that, I would have expected a pass since (to my shame) the mileage travelled since the previous test amounted to a big fat '0' But prior to that, I had started on a very necessary rear end rebuild. Although the (rear) suspension was just about adequate for immediate use it really did require refreshing. Most bushes were shot, CV boots perished and the wheel bearings were awful. It really was time for a full rebuild. The objective was to build up a complete refreshed rear end and, whilst fitting it, complete/tidy various areas left over from the saga of the rebuilding of the sills/jacking points, particularly the area behind the 'beer cans' which is inaccessible with the rear axle in place. I also decided to upgrade and modify the axle to 'M5+' spec with the axle being fully adjustable for toe and camber angles, along with a few other choice upgrades. Massive update on this soon. I'll do a full write up if folks are interested in such things and I can find the time......
  10. FIVE-OH

    Cleaning the fuzzy/felt-like door seal/trim

    Try a high quality lint roller. Cheap a surprisingly effective.
  11. FIVE-OH

    E34 N/S inner and outer sills

    Having been through this process not so long ago, I would suggest a full appraisal of the car for the extent of corrosion not just in the rear sill area but also the front sills around the jacking point and the surrounding floor pan adjacent. If the rears are bad the fronts won't be too far behind. The klokkerholm repair sills available from ECP, whilst nicely made are only really suitable if the extent of the rot is not severe or extensive. If the rot is well established then the genuine BMW rear sill section makes much more sense. The genuine panel provides more material going up the arch, the internal & external jacking point brackets and the overall fit is much better than the klokkerholm item. As mentioned one of the inner sills is NLA and it is this panel that would be very difficult to fabricate as it is heavily contoured in shape/profile. The lower forward section of the inner wheel arch also suffers major corrosion. It's a big job if it's proper rotten. Feel free to pm me for further information should you need it.
  12. FIVE-OH

    Temperature Sensors and other coolant parts

    Does it overheat at all, or do you have concerns the WP is failing? If not, why change it? M30 water pumps are imo very reliable and usually give plenty of warning when they become poorly. They are at first glance easy to renew, but if your unlucky it could turn into a bit of a nightmare. The pump is bolted to the boss on the block by a series of M6 bolts of varying lengths and the longer ones at the bottom have been know to shear making what should be a fairly straightforward task a real mission. If your paying for repair/renewal then perhaps it worth your while for what they cost. I personally tend to renew things when they need replacing. If it needs it then of course you should renew it but in my view (and it is only my view), unless it's an absolutely critical component, it stays put.
  13. FIVE-OH

    Temperature Sensors and other coolant parts

    Imo, I wouldn't bother to change anything you suggested. You have two sensors on the housing, the temp sensor (black) for the temp gauge and the coolant temp sensor (blue) for signal to Ecu. These type of sensors tend to either work or not. They rarely fail and are easily accessible if they were to become faulty. The specs are also easily checked using the ohm setting on any decent multimeter. You'll more likely find the wiring to a sensor is faulty or damaged rather than actual sensor failure. All M30's carry a light alloy thermostat housing. There was never a plastic type housing available to my knowledge. I would expect this item to be fairly expensive new and realistically, is it really necessary to renew it? Only you can answer that one. I always suggest to resist the urge to fiddle with things unnecessarily. By all means tidy things up, but if it's running well, leave it alone and observe.
  14. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    As long as the diff is not noisy and has no roughness in the bearings then it's golden. The only true way to appraise wear (unless noisy) is a visual inspection. The condition of the oil can also give an indication to overall condition. Any 'shimmering' of the oil could be an issue However, if refreshing an LSD unit, then by default you'll get the chance to inspect bearings since the crown wheel needs to be removed to get to the internals of the LSD. At 273k, it's done well, though if a slipper it will more than likely need refreshing by now.
  15. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    The diff pinion seal is easily the most tricky of the three seals to replace but it can be done DIY. What your supposed to do is mark the position of the pinion nut in relation to the shaft. Then when unwinding the nut, count the number of turns to fully remove it. I would thoroughly clean the thread on the pinion shaft before pulling this nut. Once the nut is removed you can then remove the drive flange (sometimes comes straight off sometimes need puller) and then your free to renew the seal. When refitting you would wind the nut back to exactly where your previously made mark would be. If you over tighten at this stage then this is where the danger comes in of changing the preload and/or backlash causing noise/whining. If the diff is high mileage then really all four bearings should be checked and really if your that far into it renewed, especially if any race has 'picked' up. In that case the diff 'should' need proper setting up,