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FIVE-OH last won the day on October 20

FIVE-OH had the most liked content!

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  1. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Toe is done on the outer pick ups closest to the wheel and camber, the inner pick ups closest to the diff. If doing your fuel and brake lines also, it will be a doddle with the rear frame out of the way. However they not too bad to do with the frame in place anyways. Time wise it took me approx 10hrs but that included a full clean by hand of the underside and various other bits an pieces. Good luck.
  2. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Easily over 10 years ago now. I will say yet again that they were superb at the time and saved me having to paint it back then. Laser blue being a e30 shade is/was fairly rare on the e34, orient or royal blue being much more common. However a paint job is on the cards at some point in the future. Jeez, time flies.... Thanks. It does look rather pretty. I messed about deciding whether to go to the full length of rebuilding and to what level. In the end I just went for it, even though the cost in time and money was high. If doing something like this then plan well ahead.
  3. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    So... late september saw the fully refurbished rear end fitted successfully. Here's the rear end 95% completed, with just the cabling and rigid brake line runs to be tidied. Rear axle now featuring modification for adjustable camber & toe, with spherical (M5) trailing arm bushes, vented brakes with associated fully refurbished brake calipers and an 18mm rear anti roll bar. Every bush, bearing, link and boot were replaced with either genuine BMW or OEM standard aftermarket. Firstly, the diff unit removed.. Axle now ready to drop out... And fully removed... As can be seen, with many years of grim, oil stains and general filth, I had no option but to degrease and wash by hand, with unfortunately no chance of a pressure wash at that time. But ultimately I was happy at the lack of any significant areas of rot. Some small areas where corrosion was just starting to take hold were cleaned back to metal, treated and primed in preparation for a schultz coating. After cleaning of all the muck I realised the factory under seal is either grey or a very light beige. I had some grey schultz available so that was used to go over the suitably cleaned original coating that was still bonded well to the chassis frame. Not bad for a 28yr old motor that had seen some hard miles over the years. The extra unused (on early GB vehicles) vapour line up to the charcoal canister on catalyst equipped cars was finally completely discarded. The fuel and brake lines were replaced some time back but were still in fine general condition if a little scruffy looking. Fully under sealed. The triangular area adjacent to the rear axle mounting, especially fully cleaned up and sealed externally. New rear frame mounting fitted Here's the new rear end against the old. Next up was the fitting up of the axle. The cars original locking differential was left out and an open 210 unit fitted in its place. The plan is to open the original LSD for inspection and clutch plate refresh at a later date. The opportunity was also taken to replace the crusty fuel tank straps, and steam off the associated heat shielding. A final few shots of the installed rear suspension in place on the car. I'm still to do a final final shultz coating on the forward sections of the wheel arches but with the rear end phase finally complete i'm already now concentrating on the wheels and tyres next and then on to the front end of the car. Springs and dampers are also scheduled for renewal though not yet decided on spec, though it will be either the ubiquitous bilstein set up or possibly koni's. Here are the wheels ready to go off for a refurb. Upgrading from a square set to staggered, so using the best pair of 8.5j from my original square set along with the two 9.5j from the staggered set acquired some time ago. Need to organise some tyres also so the refurbers can fit them on completion, so saving me a (risky) job on the equipment available to me. Then it just needs a bit of tax to be fully road legal once more. I'm so looking forward to enjoying this car again. Look out for a massive thread soon on my sill repair saga in full detail..
  4. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    A bit of a running report on this one. Early august saw it in for MOT which was successful. Having said that, I would have expected a pass since (to my shame) the mileage travelled since the previous test amounted to a big fat '0' But prior to that, I had started on a very necessary rear end rebuild. Although the (rear) suspension was just about adequate for immediate use it really did require refreshing. Most bushes were shot, CV boots perished and the wheel bearings were awful. It really was time for a full rebuild. The objective was to build up a complete refreshed rear end and, whilst fitting it, complete/tidy various areas left over from the saga of the rebuilding of the sills/jacking points, particularly the area behind the 'beer cans' which is inaccessible with the rear axle in place. I also decided to upgrade and modify the axle to 'M5+' spec with the axle being fully adjustable for toe and camber angles, along with a few other choice upgrades. Massive update on this soon. I'll do a full write up if folks are interested in such things and I can find the time......
  5. FIVE-OH

    Cleaning the fuzzy/felt-like door seal/trim

    Try a high quality lint roller. Cheap a surprisingly effective.
  6. Hi thank you for your information,I have a local garage that will do the car they have asked me to get N/S inner and outer sills, I know the jacking point has gone, I spoke to Cotswold BMW they quoted for the outer sill, your saying get the rear sill section which sounds great and I will get im

    just not sure about the rest of the sill ? If you can help a bit more please, I'm a carpenter with not much knowledge of this sorry regards Dave

  7. FIVE-OH

    E34 N/S inner and outer sills

    Having been through this process not so long ago, I would suggest a full appraisal of the car for the extent of corrosion not just in the rear sill area but also the front sills around the jacking point and the surrounding floor pan adjacent. If the rears are bad the fronts won't be too far behind. The klokkerholm repair sills available from ECP, whilst nicely made are only really suitable if the extent of the rot is not severe or extensive. If the rot is well established then the genuine BMW rear sill section makes much more sense. The genuine panel provides more material going up the arch, the internal & external jacking point brackets and the overall fit is much better than the klokkerholm item. As mentioned one of the inner sills is NLA and it is this panel that would be very difficult to fabricate as it is heavily contoured in shape/profile. The lower forward section of the inner wheel arch also suffers major corrosion. It's a big job if it's proper rotten. Feel free to pm me for further information should you need it.
  8. FIVE-OH

    Temperature Sensors and other coolant parts

    Does it overheat at all, or do you have concerns the WP is failing? If not, why change it? M30 water pumps are imo very reliable and usually give plenty of warning when they become poorly. They are at first glance easy to renew, but if your unlucky it could turn into a bit of a nightmare. The pump is bolted to the boss on the block by a series of M6 bolts of varying lengths and the longer ones at the bottom have been know to shear making what should be a fairly straightforward task a real mission. If your paying for repair/renewal then perhaps it worth your while for what they cost. I personally tend to renew things when they need replacing. If it needs it then of course you should renew it but in my view (and it is only my view), unless it's an absolutely critical component, it stays put.
  9. FIVE-OH

    Temperature Sensors and other coolant parts

    Imo, I wouldn't bother to change anything you suggested. You have two sensors on the housing, the temp sensor (black) for the temp gauge and the coolant temp sensor (blue) for signal to Ecu. These type of sensors tend to either work or not. They rarely fail and are easily accessible if they were to become faulty. The specs are also easily checked using the ohm setting on any decent multimeter. You'll more likely find the wiring to a sensor is faulty or damaged rather than actual sensor failure. All M30's carry a light alloy thermostat housing. There was never a plastic type housing available to my knowledge. I would expect this item to be fairly expensive new and realistically, is it really necessary to renew it? Only you can answer that one. I always suggest to resist the urge to fiddle with things unnecessarily. By all means tidy things up, but if it's running well, leave it alone and observe.
  10. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    As long as the diff is not noisy and has no roughness in the bearings then it's golden. The only true way to appraise wear (unless noisy) is a visual inspection. The condition of the oil can also give an indication to overall condition. Any 'shimmering' of the oil could be an issue However, if refreshing an LSD unit, then by default you'll get the chance to inspect bearings since the crown wheel needs to be removed to get to the internals of the LSD. At 273k, it's done well, though if a slipper it will more than likely need refreshing by now.
  11. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    The diff pinion seal is easily the most tricky of the three seals to replace but it can be done DIY. What your supposed to do is mark the position of the pinion nut in relation to the shaft. Then when unwinding the nut, count the number of turns to fully remove it. I would thoroughly clean the thread on the pinion shaft before pulling this nut. Once the nut is removed you can then remove the drive flange (sometimes comes straight off sometimes need puller) and then your free to renew the seal. When refitting you would wind the nut back to exactly where your previously made mark would be. If you over tighten at this stage then this is where the danger comes in of changing the preload and/or backlash causing noise/whining. If the diff is high mileage then really all four bearings should be checked and really if your that far into it renewed, especially if any race has 'picked' up. In that case the diff 'should' need proper setting up,
  12. Manor body repairs, Crown road Enfield? If so, I used them some years ago for repairs to the e34 after it was damaged whilst parked outside my mams house. A long established business, they did a good repair and the paint match was pretty much spot on. Quick turnaround also. M repairs of hoddesdon I know of but have never used personally. It is located in the back of beyond however, far from town. Their car park was usually packed with vehicles waiting repairs though. Good luck.
  13. FIVE-OH

    E32 750 trailing arms

    Caution. Only the 740 & 750 e32 carried these 'specific' arms along with all e34 m5. It's widely known that these arms 'supposedly' guarantee the option to run 10j wheels. However it appears the difference between the two types (standard vs m5) may only be in the type of bushes fitted. I personally have never seen these arms side by side so can't say for certain there is a difference. IMO, unless your aiming to run wheels more than 9.5j I wouldn't bother going for the 'big' arm option.
  14. FIVE-OH

    Won’t start. No codes showing

    If you've got spark and fuel and a manual transmission, try a tow start.
  15. Clic (& clic-r) clamps can be reused multiple times. Get a small pointed pick in the hook and twist it gently to release, or a small flat edged screwdriver under the locking edge and flick it apart. Either way, try not to distort it or it will become useless. When putting back, a decent side cutter carefully used will do it. The correct tool for these is readily available, cheap and designed to remove and install most sizes.