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FIVE-OH

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FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

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  1. FIVE-OH

    Cleaning the fuzzy/felt-like door seal/trim

    Try a high quality lint roller. Cheap a surprisingly effective.
  2. Hi thank you for your information,I have a local garage that will do the car they have asked me to get N/S inner and outer sills, I know the jacking point has gone, I spoke to Cotswold BMW they quoted for the outer sill, your saying get the rear sill section which sounds great and I will get im

    just not sure about the rest of the sill ? If you can help a bit more please, I'm a carpenter with not much knowledge of this sorry regards Dave

  3. FIVE-OH

    E34 N/S inner and outer sills

    Having been through this process not so long ago, I would suggest a full appraisal of the car for the extent of corrosion not just in the rear sill area but also the front sills around the jacking point and the surrounding floor pan adjacent. If the rears are bad the fronts won't be too far behind. The klokkerholm repair sills available from ECP, whilst nicely made are only really suitable if the extent of the rot is not severe or extensive. If the rot is well established then the genuine BMW rear sill section makes much more sense. The genuine panel provides more material going up the arch, the internal & external jacking point brackets and the overall fit is much better than the klokkerholm item. As mentioned one of the inner sills is NLA and it is this panel that would be very difficult to fabricate as it is heavily contoured in shape/profile. The lower forward section of the inner wheel arch also suffers major corrosion. It's a big job if it's proper rotten. Feel free to pm me for further information should you need it.
  4. FIVE-OH

    Temperature Sensors and other coolant parts

    Does it overheat at all, or do you have concerns the WP is failing? If not, why change it? M30 water pumps are imo very reliable and usually give plenty of warning when they become poorly. They are at first glance easy to renew, but if your unlucky it could turn into a bit of a nightmare. The pump is bolted to the boss on the block by a series of M6 bolts of varying lengths and the longer ones at the bottom have been know to shear making what should be a fairly straightforward task a real mission. If your paying for repair/renewal then perhaps it worth your while for what they cost. I personally tend to renew things when they need replacing. If it needs it then of course you should renew it but in my view (and it is only my view), unless it's an absolutely critical component, it stays put.
  5. FIVE-OH

    Temperature Sensors and other coolant parts

    Imo, I wouldn't bother to change anything you suggested. You have two sensors on the housing, the temp sensor (black) for the temp gauge and the coolant temp sensor (blue) for signal to Ecu. These type of sensors tend to either work or not. They rarely fail and are easily accessible if they were to become faulty. The specs are also easily checked using the ohm setting on any decent multimeter. You'll more likely find the wiring to a sensor is faulty or damaged rather than actual sensor failure. All M30's carry a light alloy thermostat housing. There was never a plastic type housing available to my knowledge. I would expect this item to be fairly expensive new and realistically, is it really necessary to renew it? Only you can answer that one. I always suggest to resist the urge to fiddle with things unnecessarily. By all means tidy things up, but if it's running well, leave it alone and observe.
  6. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    As long as the diff is not noisy and has no roughness in the bearings then it's golden. The only true way to appraise wear (unless noisy) is a visual inspection. The condition of the oil can also give an indication to overall condition. Any 'shimmering' of the oil could be an issue However, if refreshing an LSD unit, then by default you'll get the chance to inspect bearings since the crown wheel needs to be removed to get to the internals of the LSD. At 273k, it's done well, though if a slipper it will more than likely need refreshing by now.
  7. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    The diff pinion seal is easily the most tricky of the three seals to replace but it can be done DIY. What your supposed to do is mark the position of the pinion nut in relation to the shaft. Then when unwinding the nut, count the number of turns to fully remove it. I would thoroughly clean the thread on the pinion shaft before pulling this nut. Once the nut is removed you can then remove the drive flange (sometimes comes straight off sometimes need puller) and then your free to renew the seal. When refitting you would wind the nut back to exactly where your previously made mark would be. If you over tighten at this stage then this is where the danger comes in of changing the preload and/or backlash causing noise/whining. If the diff is high mileage then really all four bearings should be checked and really if your that far into it renewed, especially if any race has 'picked' up. In that case the diff 'should' need proper setting up,
  8. Manor body repairs, Crown road Enfield? If so, I used them some years ago for repairs to the e34 after it was damaged whilst parked outside my mams house. A long established business, they did a good repair and the paint match was pretty much spot on. Quick turnaround also. M repairs of hoddesdon I know of but have never used personally. It is located in the back of beyond however, far from town. Their car park was usually packed with vehicles waiting repairs though. Good luck.
  9. FIVE-OH

    E32 750 trailing arms

    Caution. Only the 740 & 750 e32 carried these 'specific' arms along with all e34 m5. It's widely known that these arms 'supposedly' guarantee the option to run 10j wheels. However it appears the difference between the two types (standard vs m5) may only be in the type of bushes fitted. I personally have never seen these arms side by side so can't say for certain there is a difference. IMO, unless your aiming to run wheels more than 9.5j I wouldn't bother going for the 'big' arm option.
  10. FIVE-OH

    Won’t start. No codes showing

    If you've got spark and fuel and a manual transmission, try a tow start.
  11. Clic (& clic-r) clamps can be reused multiple times. Get a small pointed pick in the hook and twist it gently to release, or a small flat edged screwdriver under the locking edge and flick it apart. Either way, try not to distort it or it will become useless. When putting back, a decent side cutter carefully used will do it. The correct tool for these is readily available, cheap and designed to remove and install most sizes.
  12. FIVE-OH

    M5 Starting Issues...Looking for advice

    For your first problem, it appears there's a parasitic drain some where in the electrical system or as suggested something is staying on. Boot light, sun visors, glove box or even an immobilizer etc are all suspects. Eliminate these possibilities before checking for a drain via a multimeter. Your second issue is most likely the starter and to be precise the solenoid. What happens is as they age the solenoid suffers more from heat soak, so from cold it will start fine but once hot due to expansion within the unit it will not. 12v m30s as well as 24v s3* motors suffer from it. On a manual car a direct 12v feed to the starter 'relay' may give enough power to energise the solenoid to start. The starter relay (on manuals) is really only a bridge, since an inhibitor relay needed for autos is not required. Open it and you'll find there's nothing in there other than a link piece of metal that links the two halves of the starter circuit. 12v direct here (from the nearby B+ jumping post) may start the car. It's straightforward to check continuity from here down to the starter or back up to the ignition switch. Ultimately If you do get stuck on the road, let it cool down and try again.
  13. FIVE-OH

    Help removing stuck inner tie rod from rack

    By inner tie rod, i assume you mean the track rod? They can be very tight at times and usually have a very fine thread. Some manufacturers will bond the threads with threadlock. I'd personally 'modify' an suitable spanner so as to be able to slip a 'extension' over the end to give more leverage, such as a bit of pipe or failing that a good old stilson could be used if enough room. I would avoid striking the spanner as this could damage the actual rack and if using heat it should be kept to the bare minimum. I personally mix whatever releasing agent I'm using with straight engine oil at 50/50. ATF is good as it creeps well but it is highly flammable.
  14. FIVE-OH

    accelerator sticking,

    Check the cross link rod behind throttle pedal up on the bulkhead. Any rusty dust or swarf around the bushes confirms it. A good soaking and clean should cure it.
  15. FIVE-OH

    Should i convert to manual

    For me, not so long ago it would be manual all day long. However with the years going by I'm drawing more and more towards fully automatic transmission for a daily runner. I was seriously keen on that manual e60 545 touring that was on here a few weeks back, but for the first time the diy gear option whilst still appealing kinda did not feel the correct choice at that time for that particular motor. I've still got two other manual keeper BMW's, so a third one to my mind again whilst desirable was not really necessary for my needs. In regards to the OP's original question, if the car is in good overall condition and the intention is to keep it, I would just have the gearbox rebuilt or obtain a rebuilt replacement. I would expect a full manual conversion to work out to at least 2/3rds or more of the cost of a decent auto box rebuild. I don't think there would be that much in it unless your doing the work yourself. Good luck with it either way going forward.
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