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mr-b

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  1. I tried some spare phono cables (since pulling the existing ones will entail desoldering the plugs and it's extremely fiddly soldering in the car) and no matter where I route them the noise persists. Then I ran some jump leads off the battery and hooked them up to the head unit's power connector, and the noise is still there! I'm rather stumped now, unless there is an alternator noise suppressor solution. There are various car interference filters on ebay for about £10 but have no idea how good they are.
  2. Thanks will give it a try. I did find that the noise went away if I disconnected the cables at the head unit, so was thinking it might be a head unit earthing issue.
  3. Hi I'm having some audio interference issues with a new amp install. It seems to be a combination of the classic alternator whine (which varies with engine speed) plus a twittering in the background. The noise happens even with the volume turned down. The head unit has two sets of stereo phono RCA cables, and if I disconnect them at the amp, the noise goes away. I've used Van Damme StarQuad instrument cable run down the passenger side via the door jambs. The screen of this cable is connected to the cold wires at the head unit end only, and unconnected at the amp end. This is as per the recommendations in https://www.rane.com/note151.html I've changed the amp's earthing point from the light cluster to the battery but there's no difference. The odd thing was I tried out some old component video cables as lash-up phono interconects with just the 3 wires connected (front L & R and Sub L) and there was no noise, but as soon as I added a fourth spare digital coax cable for the Sub R connection, the noise returned. Any suggestions on what to try next?
  4. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    Update on this - I've added new wiring through to the doors from the boot. I was originally going to tap into speaker wires going from the wiring loom from the headunit but couldn't work out which loom to break into (see earlier pic). As it turns out from the door cables on the chassis side, that uses different colours from the wiring in the doors - no wonder I couldn't see them. Doh! Wiring new cables into the doors was difficult at first, but of course seems easy once you know how! I took off the passenger door stay to open the door sufficiently to get access to remove the rubber cable boot. Removing the door stay's hollow pin was a bit of a challenge in itself but eventually a nut plus nail punch and a hefty whack dislodged it. Poor design IMO. Thanks Qasim for the tip on how to get at the cable boot! With the boot visible I could see that the speaker wiring colours were different from that in the doors, so that made the decision to run new wires easier! When the boot came off I was able to squeeze in a twin 1.5mm2 speaker cable threaded through from the passenger footwell. I had to break a small black rhombus shaped spacer clip off to get the space for it, but it didn't look a critical part somehow (crosses fingers). Then I had to use a stiff wire to route through the cable boot then into the door (pulling off the vapour barrier), and then pull the new wires past the existing loom. Then I ran it into the pod using the convenient notch at the bottom of the driver aperture. The driver side was of course completely different The chassis seems to have a double skin arrangement so it was impossible to route the cable directly through to the door boot from the kick panel. So this time I had to use a stiff cable to route in from the cable boot down into the chassis, and then pull through the speaker cable. It comes out at the bottom of the kicks by the driver door jamb. I couldn't find anywhere to stash the crossover on the driver's side (apart from the ODB diagnostics connector cubby hole) so they're both in the glovebox for now, where I can easily tweak the tweeter levels ... The tweeters are on the ends of bulldog clips so I can experiment where to mount them in the kicks/footwell area. I ran the speaker cables under the door jambs in the convenient channels and then under the rear seat to the boot. I then got some old 5m phono RCA component video cables as temporary to test the length of the two pairs of stereo cables I needed to run from the head unit to the boot. Though video cables are not quite the correct impedance they'll do for now. It seems 5m is fine. The slight rattling or vibration from the drivers at certain freq has gone so I can only attribute that to running the Alpine head unit near max volume. Next step is to add some more Dacron wadding in the pods (since there was only a risible amount in there to start with), wrap them with Screwfix flashing tape and put the doors back together (not forgetting to reseal the vapour barrier that I had to unstick to route the cables). Even just lashed up in temporary fashion, it's sounding great and just like my old car now.
  5. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    After investigation with a hose I've found the culprit. The Vent Breather Flap in the boot cubby hole was letting in water, which was in turn entering via a gap at the edge of the wheel arch liner. This must have become dislodged after a minor rear bump a while ago which has obviously allowed for it to become untethered somehow. It seems obvious now but I'm usually parked beside a wall so I'd never noticed it - doh! I'll have to investigate if it's possible to re-attach it ... A small amount of water had also collected in the spare wheel well, noticeable by the condensation on the top of spare wheel. The bottom of the well looked a bit rusty after clearing out, I'm not sure if it would require any remedial work. Nothing seemed corroded from the underneath. I'm not sure how the drain holes are meant to work since they are plugged. Thanks to all for the help!
  6. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    I'll try the hose method, but where is the water coming from after a dry drive? It's as if the leak has been stored somewhere and then sloshes down/along into the boot cubby hole.
  7. Hi I've discovered about a inch of water in the cubby hole on the left side (where the CD changer used to be). I mopped it up but it returns after a while, even when there has been no rain! All the surrounding areas seem to be dry, and I can't see any sign of ingress via the nearby wheel arch vent flaps. After some investigation I found a very damp carpet in the rear passenger footwell on the near side, and it looks like the classic door vapour barrier resealing issue, so a fix for that is in hand. However I'm mystified why that might affect the rear cubby hole since that is above the footwell! Is the footwell leak a coincidence and water may be entering the boot from somewhere else? The rear washer doesn't work and I don't use it so I assume it's nothing to do with that.
  8. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    I found that the mid driver itself was vibrating, even out of the pods - but it's most likely because my phone and head unit were turned to the max! Then I managed to get the passenger door kick panel removed but the door connector looks pretty inaccessible. So I'm wondering which of the various looms present that are accessible contain the original blue/brown and blue/red speaker wires. It doesn't help that I'm colour blind! Are they in the smaller bunch that go off to the left underneath the insulation, or the thick one that goes upwards? Also on the actual door side, how did you access the door connector? Guessing you need to remove the door retaining pin to open it fully and acces the wiring harness boot?
  9. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    Thanks! I'd just worked that out last night after looking at pics of tweeter plugs on ebay! I'm having some interesting results with the MBQ mid in the pod. I use my trusty Alan Parsons - Soundcheck 2 CD to verify things sound OK. I'm getting a fair amount of vibration, espec on a bass guitar track. Swapping to the other MBQ driver does it too so it's not a faulty driver. Will have to investigate clearances and wrapping the pod with something to help kill any vibrations. I hear Screwfix do some flashing strip that helps with sound deadening. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bostik-flashband-grey-10m-x-100mm/57969?_requestid=208183 The big difference though is in the tweeter, the stock one really is poor, although I know the MBQ Q-series one is an expensive unit. I've got it down in the kicks on the 0db crossover setting and it's sounding great so far. I will also try it attenuated in the mirror sails but my experience is that it's likely to be too close to the ears.
  10. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    Humph - just managed to snap the OEM tweeter plug (the small white one at the top). Anyone know how to extract it properly? The BSW guy just pulled it out.
  11. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    I don't know those specific speakers but generally drivers are designed to work best inside a sealed enclosure, rather than with an open baffle, where bass response is likely to be rather limited. Ideally one would suck it and see, but I'd assume that using the stock pods will be best if you have sufficient clearance, even though it may resonate at certain frequencies. Some folks put dynamat inside as well as all over but I've not seen firm conclusions of any benefits.
  12. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    Thanks - I've not managed to find any pics of the door connector other than in the OP so I've no idea what parts are req'd or what's involved. The weather has precluded any investigative sessions!
  13. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    Which speakers & mounts do you have?
  14. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    Hi Useful pics for me as I'm trialling some MBQ 5" components in the doors. Luckily I found the BSW youtube videos which made removing the door card much easier than I thought it was going to be. I discovered that the stock mid-bass plastic pod has a gap at the bottom of the baffle (see below) which isn't great if the new driver won't fit exactly into the recess, and which kind of defeats the whole purpose of a sealed enclosure! So I used some rubber draughtproofing strip to seal it up. However I'd welcome any advice on how to route new speaker wires into the door, specifically how do you get them to & from the door connector? (The MBQ Musicomp crossovers are pretty big so I'm assuming I'm going to have to run both tweeter and mid-bass wires into the door. Either that or put the crossover into a door pocket ...)
  15. mr-b

    Amp wiring kits?

    Thanks, in the end I've decided to get everything separately as all the kits I saw used CCA power cables and it seemed that OFC was the way to go. I've also gone for a AGU fuse holder with built-in circuit breaker - £6 off the bay. Plus I found a 20m reel of Silvercrest (Lidl!) 1.5mm2 speaker cable which will do for now. I'm not sure how long the phono/RCA cables will need to be, as I'm not sure whether to route via the transmission tunnel/doors/headlining, but 5m seems to be a popular length. In my hifi setups, I usually go for studio type kit as it's well constructed and good value e.g. van Damme cable, Neutrik connectors etc. but even that may end up being a bit too expensive ...
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