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mr-b

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  1. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    Yes, although I only siliconed the channel in the bottom section (below the glass) and then fitted it into place since that is the section that was a definite loose fit. Tx for the rustproofing info - will investigate. The tricky areas are those rusty bits under the struts just above the bottom of the well that the air suspension unit sits on.
  2. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    Update: I'm happy to report that siliconing the tailgate rubber seal into place has definitely done the trick in terms of preventing water ingress around the seal and collecting in the tailgate boot lip channel. However after seeing the channel dry I was surprised to spot more water in the wheel well with no obvious ingress point. However since mopping it up it hasn't reoccurred, despite a few spots of rain, so I'm hoping it was from the prev leak and I'd missed it due to the spare wheel being back in place. Will report back if any more news. What do folks recommend to treat the rust in the wheel well? I'm not familiar with Waxoyl, just have some normal Hammerite in the cupboard ...
  3. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    Sorry to report no closure as yet. I was hoping to solve it first and then post here ... so here's the progress meanwhile! I removed the boot lip panel to find about a cm deep small pool of water in the channel underneath and I think this explained why water was appearing on both sides of the boot since I could hear water sloshing about when turning a corner, and then it was obviously spilling over either into the spare wheel well or the cubby hole, although it sounded like a lot more quantity than I found in the channel. I removed the tailgate rubber boot seal to clean it out and found there was a doubling of metal panels underneath, on the bottom left side. The panels had rusted, moving the two sections apart which may have caused an issue with the seal. So I've dremeled the panels down and painted it with Hammerite. Next step is to refit the rubber seal and silicone it into position. I found similar to this described at https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/63200-water-leak-in-spare-wheel-well/
  4. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    Tx for the update. It's the opposite for me after a dry spell. The wheel well is dry but the old flow path is clearly visible from under the battery so I'll have to do some dismantling to trace it. I've got a roof cover so will see if that prevents any rain ingress. The CD cubby continues to fill up with a small amount of water after a short drive. I removed the plastic vent and the lip was dry so I'm pretty sure it's not coming in from there. I suspect it's entering somehow from the rear but I'm rather stumped as to where it's coming from. It's rather concerning that water is stored somewhere. I've got one of those endoscope cameras so may have a poke around ...
  5. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    Bugger, the water leak has returned. It appear to be coming from two places: 1) The cubby hole on the near side. This seems to fill with water in even when it's not raining (rather rare recently), but after the car has been driven. The vent looks to be dry, so it must be coming from elsewhere. It's as if there is some water trapped somewhere that is sloshing around and seeping in somehow. 2) The spare wheel well. This appears to be coming down from the underneath the black box underneath the battery. Any ideas?
  6. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    I just about managed to pull the vent back into the car, though it was tight and access was restricted by a grille outside. Then it pushed easily back into the aperture, the right way round this time! RE: rust spots, I'll prolly just use Hammerite.
  7. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    Great catch - thanks! That definitely makes sense and I did wonder why there were flaps on the inside ... Will see if I can remove it and switch it round tomorrow.
  8. I tried some spare phono cables (since pulling the existing ones will entail desoldering the plugs and it's extremely fiddly soldering in the car) and no matter where I route them the noise persists. Then I ran some jump leads off the battery and hooked them up to the head unit's power connector, and the noise is still there! I'm rather stumped now, unless there is an alternator noise suppressor solution. There are various car interference filters on ebay for about £10 but have no idea how good they are.
  9. Thanks will give it a try. I did find that the noise went away if I disconnected the cables at the head unit, so was thinking it might be a head unit earthing issue.
  10. Hi I'm having some audio interference issues with a new amp install. It seems to be a combination of the classic alternator whine (which varies with engine speed) plus a twittering in the background. The noise happens even with the volume turned down. The head unit has two sets of stereo phono RCA cables, and if I disconnect them at the amp, the noise goes away. I've used Van Damme StarQuad instrument cable run down the passenger side via the door jambs. The screen of this cable is connected to the cold wires at the head unit end only, and unconnected at the amp end. This is as per the recommendations in https://www.rane.com/note151.html I've changed the amp's earthing point from the light cluster to the battery but there's no difference. The odd thing was I tried out some old component video cables as lash-up phono interconects with just the 3 wires connected (front L & R and Sub L) and there was no noise, but as soon as I added a fourth spare digital coax cable for the Sub R connection, the noise returned. Any suggestions on what to try next?
  11. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    Update on this - I've added new wiring through to the doors from the boot. I was originally going to tap into speaker wires going from the wiring loom from the headunit but couldn't work out which loom to break into (see earlier pic). As it turns out from the door cables on the chassis side, that uses different colours from the wiring in the doors - no wonder I couldn't see them. Doh! Wiring new cables into the doors was difficult at first, but of course seems easy once you know how! I took off the passenger door stay to open the door sufficiently to get access to remove the rubber cable boot. Removing the door stay's hollow pin was a bit of a challenge in itself but eventually a nut plus nail punch and a hefty whack dislodged it. Poor design IMO. Thanks Qasim for the tip on how to get at the cable boot! With the boot visible I could see that the speaker wiring colours were different from that in the doors, so that made the decision to run new wires easier! When the boot came off I was able to squeeze in a twin 1.5mm2 speaker cable threaded through from the passenger footwell. I had to break a small black rhombus shaped spacer clip off to get the space for it, but it didn't look a critical part somehow (crosses fingers). Then I had to use a stiff wire to route through the cable boot then into the door (pulling off the vapour barrier), and then pull the new wires past the existing loom. Then I ran it into the pod using the convenient notch at the bottom of the driver aperture. The driver side was of course completely different The chassis seems to have a double skin arrangement so it was impossible to route the cable directly through to the door boot from the kick panel. So this time I had to use a stiff cable to route in from the cable boot down into the chassis, and then pull through the speaker cable. It comes out at the bottom of the kicks by the driver door jamb. I couldn't find anywhere to stash the crossover on the driver's side (apart from the ODB diagnostics connector cubby hole) so they're both in the glovebox for now, where I can easily tweak the tweeter levels ... The tweeters are on the ends of bulldog clips so I can experiment where to mount them in the kicks/footwell area. I ran the speaker cables under the door jambs in the convenient channels and then under the rear seat to the boot. I then got some old 5m phono RCA component video cables as temporary to test the length of the two pairs of stereo cables I needed to run from the head unit to the boot. Though video cables are not quite the correct impedance they'll do for now. It seems 5m is fine. The slight rattling or vibration from the drivers at certain freq has gone so I can only attribute that to running the Alpine head unit near max volume. Next step is to add some more Dacron wadding in the pods (since there was only a risible amount in there to start with), wrap them with Screwfix flashing tape and put the doors back together (not forgetting to reseal the vapour barrier that I had to unstick to route the cables). Even just lashed up in temporary fashion, it's sounding great and just like my old car now.
  12. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    After investigation with a hose I've found the culprit. The Vent Breather Flap in the boot cubby hole was letting in water, which was in turn entering via a gap at the edge of the wheel arch liner. This must have become dislodged after a minor rear bump a while ago which has obviously allowed for it to become untethered somehow. It seems obvious now but I'm usually parked beside a wall so I'd never noticed it - doh! I'll have to investigate if it's possible to re-attach it ... A small amount of water had also collected in the spare wheel well, noticeable by the condensation on the top of spare wheel. The bottom of the well looked a bit rusty after clearing out, I'm not sure if it would require any remedial work. Nothing seemed corroded from the underneath. I'm not sure how the drain holes are meant to work since they are plugged. Thanks to all for the help!
  13. mr-b

    Odd water leak in Touring boot

    I'll try the hose method, but where is the water coming from after a dry drive? It's as if the leak has been stored somewhere and then sloshes down/along into the boot cubby hole.
  14. Hi I've discovered about a inch of water in the cubby hole on the left side (where the CD changer used to be). I mopped it up but it returns after a while, even when there has been no rain! All the surrounding areas seem to be dry, and I can't see any sign of ingress via the nearby wheel arch vent flaps. After some investigation I found a very damp carpet in the rear passenger footwell on the near side, and it looks like the classic door vapour barrier resealing issue, so a fix for that is in hand. However I'm mystified why that might affect the rear cubby hole since that is above the footwell! Is the footwell leak a coincidence and water may be entering the boot from somewhere else? The rear washer doesn't work and I don't use it so I assume it's nothing to do with that.
  15. mr-b

    E39 component door speaker install

    I found that the mid driver itself was vibrating, even out of the pods - but it's most likely because my phone and head unit were turned to the max! Then I managed to get the passenger door kick panel removed but the door connector looks pretty inaccessible. So I'm wondering which of the various looms present that are accessible contain the original blue/brown and blue/red speaker wires. It doesn't help that I'm colour blind! Are they in the smaller bunch that go off to the left underneath the insulation, or the thick one that goes upwards? Also on the actual door side, how did you access the door connector? Guessing you need to remove the door retaining pin to open it fully and acces the wiring harness boot?
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