Jump to content

DriftworksJames

Members
  • Content count

    96
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by DriftworksJames

  1. Hi, I've got an 04 E61 530d with Self Levelling rear suspension. I've used INPA to re-calibrate my rear ride height after fitting -30mm H&R springs up front and the car is now aware of what the new ride height is and correctly records that as zero. I can use the 'hand controller' part of INPA to raise and lower the car and the compressor works fine. It always self levelled nicely before the height change. But now I've changed the settings, the car doesn't try to self-level any more. It's dropping about 20mm a week and I'm having to periodically use the laptop to run the compressor and top the air up. I've been into the Mode Setting page on INPA and changing the modes there doesn't seem to do anything different. I can see there's a fault code of 5F B4 60 which I believe relates to 'sleep mode active' or similar, but I can't work out how to turn this off? There's seems to be an option in the Mode Setting page to turn of Energy Saving mode (which I'd guess is the same as sleep mode?) but pressing this doesn't seem to do anything. It's as though after changing any self levelling suspension settings with INPA, I need to somehow initialise the settings and put it into active mode. Can anyone shed any light? thanks in advance, James
  2. I'm trying to track down an issue with intermittent boost on my 530d. Most of the time it's wonderful, but occasionally there's nothing there when I accelerate, like the turbo's not doing anything. It always fixes itsself after a few seconds and has been like this for a year without getting much worse. I found people with the exact same symptoms who fixed it by cleaning or replacing the Turbo Pressure Converter, but my car has an electronic turbo actuator, so I don't have a pressure converter mounted on the inner wing. I don't believe it's the actuator as I believe my turbo vanes are clean and faulty actuators are usually reported to give clicking and beeping noises and I don't have any of that. Is there another pressure sensor which the engine uses to measure and regulate boost pressure on cars with electronic actuators? I'd much rather change a pressure sensor to diagnose as it's a lot cheaper and easier to swap out than an actuator. thanks, James
  3. Ello all, I have an intermittent boost issue with my car (E61 2004 530d) that I have narrowed down to being likely due to a failing electronic turbo actuator. Is it possible to remove the actuator from the back of the turbo while it's still on the car? If I can take it off, I can either free it up myself or send it off for testing and possible refurb. I really don't want the hassle of removing turbo and manifold unless it's totally neccessary.. I've been told it's possible, but wondered whether anyone had any real world experience of having done this or had any tips and tricks before I dive in to an impossible task. cheers, James
  4. In my case it was diagnosed as sticking swirl flaps in the inlet manifold. Unplugging the wiring plug to the actuator that controls the swirl flaps fixed the issue when I had it (not that I can tell you how or where) and I believe the current owner removed them altogether and fitted swirl flap blanking plugs to finish the job properly. If you can work out which is the swirl flap actuator, it's a quick and easy fix/test Hope that helps. Good luck! James
  5. I've had an issue with my E61 530d that I've been trying to track down for a while. It's intermittent power loss and always sorts itsself out quickly. It's as though the turbo has no boost temporarily, yet a few seconds later, it's back strong and fine for a while. I've replaced the MAP sensor and have ascertained that the VNT in the turbo moves freely and the electronic actuator has no obvious issues. I have an Ecotune DPF and Cat bypass and the associated remap (which is fantastic) I've seen it mentioned a few times here to try disconnecting the MAF for fault diagnosis, so I've given that a go and can confirm that with my MAF unplugged: The intermittent power loss seems to have gone completely The slight cloud of fuel smoke I was getting over the last few hundred rpm of the rev range has cleared significantly Power overall seems to be consistent, but slightly lower than I know it's potential is mpg seems to have improved from high 30s to low 40s So, is this as simple as meaning the MAF is knackered and needs replacing or is there more to it than that? I'll be a happy man if this is sorted, it's the only niggle in an otherwise really smashing car cheers, James
  6. DriftworksJames

    530d runs better with MAF unplugged, what does that prove?

    Yes! Sticking swirl flaps. Solved by unplugging the actuator for them I believe. I fixed it, then sold the car shortly after, but that was definitely the issue.
  7. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    I would quickly check above and below your rear subframe bushes while you're at it. They shouldn't be able to move far enough to touch the body if they're in good nick, but will rub obvious shiny clean patches if they have been making contact.
  8. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    Just a thought on your rumbling issue.... Ignoring the perceived performance issue for a moment, is it possible that your rumbling noise is down to subframe bushes or similar being worn and allowing something to touch the car body and transmit vibrations that you would normally not be able to hear?
  9. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    a little (M4 maybe?) cap head bolt with a bit of PTFE tape around the threads for good measure
  10. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    Ahh right yeah. I was thinking you meant for the turbo. As I understand, on the earlier cars without electronic actuator, they have 2 of these valves, one is down by the turbo and the other is there for the EGR as per your realoem link. If you suspect it's that EGR one which is faulty, you should be able to diagnose easily by removing and plugging up the vacuum feed to the EGR valve thusly: I've just bunged the end up with a bolt here so there's no vacuum leak That way, the EGR is permanently closed (unless it's all gunged up and can't close properly) and can't get any confusing requests from a faulty control valve.It may throw up an engine warning light if it gets unhappy, but doing that should help you diagnose whether your valve is faulty or not.
  11. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    I might be getting your car confused here, but if it's the same as mine with an electronic actuator, then you may well find you don't have a pressure converter for the turbo? See here when I asked about these before. http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/73299-does-an-e60-530d-with-electronic-actuator-still-use-a-pressure-converter/#entry757533 Unless you're talking about a different part? Do you have the part number you've ordered and maybe a link showing where you expected it to be in the engine bay? I was expecting it to be mounted to one of the chassis rails near the turbo. I had diagnosed my issue down to being the pressure converter only to find I don't have one So either you know something that I have missed, your car's a different setup to mine, or you haven't found out your car doesn't have one yet.... cheers, James
  12. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    I don't know to be honest. I just know on mine it's fine at idle, but if you apply any throttle and raise the revs a little you get this type of thing: where the nominal and actual appear to be out of sync and the nominal value has a '!' next to it. Stan told me that can be due to a coked up head, so I was going to give the terraclean thingy a go @ £100 as a better alternative to removing the head
  13. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    Did you see this message btw?
  14. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    If your car's the same as mine, with electronic actuator and no big plastic pressure accumulator, then you don't have a one of those pressure converters the guy mentions, just a MAP sensor at the back of the inlet manifold. That's easy to change and not expensive (£30ish I believe?) but made no difference on my car. I have my old one sat here on my desk if you want to try it? Part number is 13 62 7 792 260
  15. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    bear in mind that colder air intake temperature means more power so you will be running more powerful now than in April
  16. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    It's not just about the peak torque figure, but how it's delivered. The stock bmw map feeds the torque in quite gently whereas a remap removes the limit and gives you the ooomph whether your transmission likes it or not. You may find that with the remap, you're making just slightly too much torque for the spec of the clutch and it's always going to slip if you boot it hard when going uphill in a high gear for example regardless of whether the clutch is worn or not. I'm not saying your clutch isn't worn and knackered, just that you need to accept that a bit of slippage at peak torque doesn't necessarily mean it's worn out. BTW, my car makes an almost identical rumbling sound (from your description) and I've had a new flywheel a couple of thousand miles ago
  17. DriftworksJames

    Rumble when flooring it

    Out of interest, have you run the test within INPA which shows the requested vs actual air mass? Mine (which has similar symptoms and is also DPF removed and remapped) shows a discrepancy between the 2 figures at some revs and has a '!' next to one of the figures. ECOtune Stan reckons this is due to a coked head. I was going to give the Terraclean system a go on mine when I find the time to book it in.
  18. I've just swapped out an injector that was sticking at high revs on my 2004 530d for a re-con one. I can see via INPA that it's now much happier on the mass adjustment, but it's still sitting at around +3, which is right on the edge of the green 'ok' zone. Is the adjustment all automatic or do I need to update via DIS or similar after fitting another injector?
  19. Sorted, that was easy enough I'm just starting to get my head around DIS and how you have to go about doing certain jobs with it. Mine's a 7 digit code, so I guess that makes me EU4
  20. Thanks Is that what the attached TIS doc shows? I've got DIS installed on my laptop and I'm no expert with it, but it seems reasonably clear about what I need to do as long as I know if I'm EU3 or EU4??
  21. DriftworksJames

    530d runs better with MAF unplugged, what does that prove?

    Mine drives perfectly normally with the MAF unplugged. slightly less gutsy under full throttle and mid to high revs, but not by a lot. I've got a copy of INPA sorted now, but from having a quick scan around the only thing I can see that's a little strange is the nominal airmass vs the actual airmass. They have the same values when idling, but any throttle at all and there's a discrepancy (see the attached pic) Does this indicate an air leak? I tested this with the maf plugged and unplugged and with the egr vacuum hose connected and blocked up, all give the same result. Any ideas?
  22. DriftworksJames

    520d 58 reg juddering/smoking

    It's just a little box of tricks you plug into your car which can read your fault codes off. Here's a really cheap one on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COUGAR-CAR-DIAGNOSTIC-ODB-II-COMPATIBLE-FAULT-CODE-READER-LCD-DISPLAY-/370673265084?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item564dd929bc You can get much better ones which give you proper descriptions rather than just a 4 digit fault code number, but if you only need to use it a couple of times, something like that will probably do the job and will give you something you can google for which will point you in the right direction. Most motorfactors sell little scanners like this these days, but they'll be closer to £50 retail I would guess
  23. DriftworksJames

    520d 58 reg juddering/smoking

    Sounds like blocked cat or dpf to me. See if you can get the fault codes read off it. Pretty easy to do these days. £20 on ebay will buy you a tool you can scan the codes yourself. That'll point you in the right direction.
  24. DriftworksJames

    530d runs better with MAF unplugged, what does that prove?

    Does anyone have any suggestions for simple, yet good software I can use for data logging that will show requested vs actual figures? I don't mind spending a few quid on a good software solution if necessary, it'll certainly be cheaper than blindly buying new parts which make no difference....
  25. DriftworksJames

    530d runs better with MAF unplugged, what does that prove?

    Good stuff, thanks. Sadly that didn't make any difference Is there anything else that's disabled when the MAF is unplugged? Possibly Swirl Flaps? They're like little throttles aren't they? I can see how they could stick and cause an issue like mine. It seems to occur mainly when I've been cruising along for a while at very small throttle openings (like motorway roadworks for example) then you give it a bootfull as the speed limit raises back up, you put your foot down and there's just nothing there. Feels like a Normally Aspirated 1.6 diesel. It's like the turbo is sleeping....
×