DriftworksJames

In my case it was diagnosed as sticking swirl flaps in the inlet manifold. Unplugging the wiring plug to the actuator that controls the swirl flaps fixed the issue when I had it (not that I can tell you how or where) and I believe the current owner removed them altogether and fitted swirl flap blanking plugs to finish the job properly. If you can work out which is the swirl flap actuator, it's a quick and easy fix/test Hope that helps. Good luck! James

Yes! Sticking swirl flaps. Solved by unplugging the actuator for them I believe. I fixed it, then sold the car shortly after, but that was definitely the issue.

I would quickly check above and below your rear subframe bushes while you're at it. They shouldn't be able to move far enough to touch the body if they're in good nick, but will rub obvious shiny clean patches if they have been making contact.

Just a thought on your rumbling issue.... Ignoring the perceived performance issue for a moment, is it possible that your rumbling noise is down to subframe bushes or similar being worn and allowing something to touch the car body and transmit vibrations that you would normally not be able to hear?

a little (M4 maybe?) cap head bolt with a bit of PTFE tape around the threads for good measure

Ahh right yeah. I was thinking you meant for the turbo. As I understand, on the earlier cars without electronic actuator, they have 2 of these valves, one is down by the turbo and the other is there for the EGR as per your realoem link. If you suspect it's that EGR one which is faulty, you should be able to diagnose easily by removing and plugging up the vacuum feed to the EGR valve thusly: I've just bunged the end up with a bolt here so there's no vacuum leak That way, the EGR is permanently closed (unless it's all gunged up and can't close properly) and can't get any confusing requests from a faulty control valve.It may throw up an engine warning light if it gets unhappy, but doing that should help you diagnose whether your valve is faulty or not.

I might be getting your car confused here, but if it's the same as mine with an electronic actuator, then you may well find you don't have a pressure converter for the turbo? See here when I asked about these before. http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/73299-does-an-e60-530d-with-electronic-actuator-still-use-a-pressure-converter/#entry757533 Unless you're talking about a different part? Do you have the part number you've ordered and maybe a link showing where you expected it to be in the engine bay? I was expecting it to be mounted to one of the chassis rails near the turbo. I had diagnosed my issue down to being the pressure converter only to find I don't have one So either you know something that I have missed, your car's a different setup to mine, or you haven't found out your car doesn't have one yet.... cheers, James

I don't know to be honest. I just know on mine it's fine at idle, but if you apply any throttle and raise the revs a little you get this type of thing: where the nominal and actual appear to be out of sync and the nominal value has a '!' next to it. Stan told me that can be due to a coked up head, so I was going to give the terraclean thingy a go @ £100 as a better alternative to removing the head

Did you see this message btw?

If your car's the same as mine, with electronic actuator and no big plastic pressure accumulator, then you don't have a one of those pressure converters the guy mentions, just a MAP sensor at the back of the inlet manifold. That's easy to change and not expensive (£30ish I believe?) but made no difference on my car. I have my old one sat here on my desk if you want to try it? Part number is 13 62 7 792 260

bear in mind that colder air intake temperature means more power so you will be running more powerful now than in April

It's not just about the peak torque figure, but how it's delivered. The stock bmw map feeds the torque in quite gently whereas a remap removes the limit and gives you the ooomph whether your transmission likes it or not. You may find that with the remap, you're making just slightly too much torque for the spec of the clutch and it's always going to slip if you boot it hard when going uphill in a high gear for example regardless of whether the clutch is worn or not. I'm not saying your clutch isn't worn and knackered, just that you need to accept that a bit of slippage at peak torque doesn't necessarily mean it's worn out. BTW, my car makes an almost identical rumbling sound (from your description) and I've had a new flywheel a couple of thousand miles ago

Out of interest, have you run the test within INPA which shows the requested vs actual air mass? Mine (which has similar symptoms and is also DPF removed and remapped) shows a discrepancy between the 2 figures at some revs and has a '!' next to one of the figures. ECOtune Stan reckons this is due to a coked head. I was going to give the Terraclean system a go on mine when I find the time to book it in.

Sorted, that was easy enough I'm just starting to get my head around DIS and how you have to go about doing certain jobs with it. Mine's a 7 digit code, so I guess that makes me EU4

Thanks Is that what the attached TIS doc shows? I've got DIS installed on my laptop and I'm no expert with it, but it seems reasonably clear about what I need to do as long as I know if I'm EU3 or EU4??