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dmarkovina1

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About dmarkovina1

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  1. dmarkovina1

    ABS / brake lights "trifecta"

    If this only happens when very hot than you need either fixing yours or getting a new DSC unit. My understanding was that it happened first when hot and that issue has persisted since then hence the ABS pump troubleshooting suggestion - as the error persisted. If you are getting a new or buying someone else's used (only if cheap) then it has to be coded to your car. When you clear the errors do both appear immediately, even when cold? The thing is that you also have steering wheel sensor issue which would also trip off the ABS lights - if memory serves me...
  2. dmarkovina1

    ABS / brake lights "trifecta"

    If this only happens when very hot than you need either fixing yours or getting a new DSC unit. My understanding was that it happened first when hot and that issue has persisted since then hence the ABS pump troubleshooting suggestion - as the error persisted. If you are getting a new or buying someone else's used (only if cheap) then it has to be coded to your car. When you clear the errors do both appear immediately, even when cold? The thing is that you also have steering wheel sensor issue which would also trip off the ABS lights - if memory serves me...
  3. dmarkovina1

    ABS / brake lights "trifecta"

    Have you tested the ABS pump - either via INPA or directly 12V on the connector? It may well be that the pump has failed, being 20 odd years old - it's on the hydraulic valve block. You can also connect 12V directly and see if you can hear it running. The error has nothing to do with ABS sensors.
  4. dmarkovina1

    Like for like engine swap

    When you say no combustion you mean no compression? It is strange that three have gone at the same time. I would expect two adjacent cylinders to show no compression if the head gasket between them has blown.
  5. dmarkovina1

    Winter's coming...

    I have recentlyremoved front seats and inspected the plugs/holes bellow the carpet. Every single one had a healthy onset of rust spreading from the hole. Filed, sanded, brushed the rust, liberally supplied phosphoric acid converter, brushed off the converted oxide, primed with epoxy primer, refitted the plugs and sealed the lot with a brush on seam sealer, liberally applied below and on top of the plug. To finish off I will now spray some paint over. Relatively easy job as you can do one side at the time. Just remove the front seat, pull off the B pillar and then lift the carpet halves and tie them to the other seat/gear stick with some rope so that it stays up. A point to note - from the underside all looked OK - just some light, barely visible surface rust on the plug. It was anything but as all the damage was inside, under the carpet. The picture attached was taken during the process - immediately after the rust converter was applied, still wet. The car has spent last 5 winters as a winter daily on some rather salty roads though. I have just had rocker panels replaced as the old ones were too rusty. The floor panel had a last minute save.
  6. dmarkovina1

    Softening leather

    Colourlock is a German company with local presence in UK and many other EU countries. Their stuff is indeed excellent. https://www.colourlock.com/about-us
  7. dmarkovina1

    triggering elec water pump

    If it gets cold you do get gas starvation in the engine (I did not mean to say insufficient supply of the LPG in liquid phase from the tank) - engine shutting down due to lack of LPG in gaseous phase. If I read your response correctly that is. My guess is that you have plumbed it incorrectly. On mine, one pipe is plumbed in at the heater inlet, and the other at the outlet. All good. Good luck with the workaround.
  8. dmarkovina1

    ABS / brake lights "trifecta"

    The pre-charge pump error usually points to the failed DSC module. Had it twice and in both cases (two cars) the DSC had failed. One fixed by a competetent electrician, another destroyed by a butcher so I had to buy a new one off ebay.de. And had it coded to the car.
  9. dmarkovina1

    triggering elec water pump

    Where exactly is it plumbed into the coolant circuit? Is the water flow vapouriser by any chance directional? What vaporiser is it? And do you only get gas starvation when under full load or at all times? Questions questions...
  10. dmarkovina1

    Road noise

    Exactly, excessive toe in is the tyre killer. I always ask for the toe in to be set to the smallest possible - borderline within spec. And usimg the SE specs even for Sports suspension. No issues whatsoever.
  11. dmarkovina1

    Road noise

    The key to quiet tyres (provided they are of a quiet variety) is correct and not agressive wheel alignment. Too much camber and toe in wears them unevenly and they start making noise.
  12. dmarkovina1

    Engine Replacement (M52TU)

    Get M54B30 intake manifold and throttle body adapter. +10BHP. M52TUB28 has a very restricted intake manifold (same as 2 litre engine). Also replace Vanos seals and add LM Ceratec. You can also do an engine tune to use all that extra breathing you will get. It has transformed mine (eMaps - Simon)
  13. You need to go to the dealer as they have spring tables - sadly no longer available online. Everything counts, including the level of equipment. Using the spring table you can get the correct part number. Failing that just get a pair of you favourite brand (axle) M sport set
  14. dmarkovina1

    Are halogen hella headlights the same case as xenon

    As per the above post, no point moving on to halogen headlights. Just get new bi xenon projectors (they have clear not fresnel lenses) and new adjusters fitted into the existing headlights - an polish off the covers if necessary. Night and day difference
  15. dmarkovina1

    E39 Sports seats

    100% sadly.
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