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DennisCooper last won the day on December 13 2018

DennisCooper had the most liked content!

About DennisCooper

  • Rank
    BMW5 Star

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Slough West London/Heathrow


  • Garage
    Ex Police - E39 530d Touring

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23,076 profile views
  1. DennisCooper

    E39/E38 Black Sport Contours

    Hi Cad42, I'll drop you a PM! Cheers, Dennis!
  2. DennisCooper

    Kenwood 7018DMX dimming

    Hi Qasim, I'd say get in touch with a Kenwood dealer near/close'ish by to you and mention/show this issue to them. They might then involve Kenwood UK tech support etc. Cheers, Dennis!
  3. DennisCooper

    BMW M5 30 Jahre Exhaust

    Hi, Ask at a number of nearby/close'ish BMW dealers and also even perhaps write to BMW UK to see what that VIN number car's configuration was - online websites aren't BMW themselves. I'm sure somewhere there'll be a full Jahre press release and brochure detailing what the specification and any options were for these examples. Cheers, Dennis!
  4. DennisCooper

    Auto box flush ?

    Hi Sven, As you can see from the many threads on all BMW forums, over the last 15+ years, there's no definite on this, so it comes down to how you want to go. I purchased my 530d Auto just a few months past it's 3rd birthday in 2006 at a few miles above 150K miles. It was a West Yorkshire Police car so was in fine condition mechanically but a very very, VERY scratched, swirl marked to hell and ghosted paint. A few months later at 172K miles and perhaps summer 2006, the gearbox failed. Everywhere I took it to said 150K miles was about the usual they'd see E39/E46/E53 cars in with the same issue, so I was a bit lucky I got another 22K miles. I had it overhauled and when I pulled away from the place that did it, within 50 yards it noticed it felt a lethargic, to the point I double checked I hadn't left the handbrake on! drove back to the guy, mentioned it and he said he'd rebuilt it and then flashed the ECU/Controller with factory settings. That confirmed to me my car had been remapped by the Police car preparatory centre that did it when new most likely. I drove for another 6 months or so like this before I had my ECU re-mapped. Another 100K miles or so, and early 2015, it failed again. Took it back to the same place and they confirmed a full rebuild needed and I pressed ahead. Throughout 2015 it kept crapping out on me for a total of about 9 times, I tried claiming via my Credit Card protection but that process stopped when they asked for a independent inspection to be carried out to see if it was down to bad workmanship - this would have cost at least a days labour. Fortunately, a low miled full manual 5 speed conversion kit came up and I had that done. 1st and 2nd rebuild cost £1500, and the 5spd conversion was about the same with a brand new clutch. For me it was the best solution and I absolutely love the manual gearbox on it now and I know I won't have auto gearbox issues in the future. If your car is one you intend to keep, then I'd suggest going for the same. If you think you might sell it in the future, then when the gearbox does fail (most likely) then perhaps just fit a used gearbox and hope it lasts. IF your current gearbox does last and is working good for selling time, then count yourself quite lucky ! Since the initial rebuild, over the years on the forums the indication is if a gearbox is rebuilt, then a full oil drain and refill is the recommended route to go every 2/3 years in order to minimise the risk of a full failure, it might just be a Torque Converter failure only which means I think, around a £5/600 job all in. Definitely speak to Dartford Tranmissions to get the latest from a specialist who works on these cars all the time Make sure you give Automatic Man in Acton a very wide berth. Cheers, Dennis!
  5. DennisCooper

    E39 Touring - Custom Audio upgrade

    Hi Barry, Right now, I can't remember ! I had everything done by an install specialist and wasn't around the day these were fitted up. That said, I'm 90% sure the vapour seal was cut. Wish my car was back with me with all the aspects I've having fixed/resolved done so that I could have you listen to my setup ! I will be at that stage soon though ! Cheers, Dennis!
  6. DennisCooper

    E39 audio upgrade

    Hi Barry, The Alpine PD-X range of amplifiers are very good, I had them on my shortlist as well for instance.The newer updated models are even better, have no qualms about them in this regard. The Mosoni D2 range were were suggested more for physical small sizing , their power output/spec would work ok. As for physical location with respect to physical sizing of the amps., you'll need to measure up and cross reference with physical space in the E39's cubby area to see what will and can fit Gladen are a well respected and quality brand and again, have no worry about them, they do make excellent products I do love Morel and their product offerings, similar to what bigrigbri mentions. However, I think this level of quality and their product offerings, you need to really know more of what you want and these products would be much better suited to custom applications/builds and/or where custom door and pillar enclosures/mounts are used top bring out their best of what they're capable of sounding like. Zip over to Huets first, they've done plenty of E39's in the past Cheers, Dennis!
  7. Hi, Cross forum posting to help another member sell this unit. For those with an E39 and who want to keep the OEM setup, this Alpine TUA-T100 used in conjunction with an Intravee unit, adds in DAB radio functionality. https://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/threads/alpine-dab-tuner-works-with-intravee-very-rare.209668/ Priced at £420 posted within the UK. If anyone here would like it but aren't members on the M3cutters forum, I will get in touch with the seller Cheers, Dennis!
  8. Hi All,My setup was conceived and developed by myself so that only perhaps a maximum of 5-10% of oem looks would be lost. I wanted zero loss of trunk space and I achieved that aspect. I also made custom C Pillar pods to better create a rear fill solution - and all in an E39 Touring. These variants hardly ever have audio upgrades to this or higher levels and I wasn't happy with the oem stuff at all (never have been in any prior BMW's either!)All of which was to be achieved at intermediate pricing levels so as to appeal to more of the OEM crowd and show them a substantial increase in sound quality needn't cost the thousands they stereotypically think.I've kept the system deliberately simple, and my sound quality 'aim' was to perhaps achieve 60-70% of the sound quality, staging, imaging etc of a similar product quantity competitive and award winning install. In recent months, perhaps 4/5 enthusiasts I know on the professional car audio circuit have heard my setup and given me fantastic feedback and I'm very happy I've achieved what I set out to do. Some improvements and tweaks remain though!Setup - Alpine double DIN mechless head unit, 3x Stinger interconnects, 300W RMS Arc Audio KS Mini mono amplifier, 4x75W RMS KS mini 4 ch amplifier. DLS R5A 5.25 2 way components front, DLS 4 inch co-axial for a little rear fill. JL Audio 8W3-V3 8 inch subwoofer. Discreet front door builds which blend with the door card shape and part of my design was no more than 1 inch in depth. These also house Earthquake SWS6 slimline subs (not functional yet - 3 way passive crossovers on order) which when working will add a further lower bass response to bring the imaging of the bass further to the front of the car.Rear C Pillar mods. These were custom made as I do prefer a little rear fill and the oem locations are terrible in so much as they are in the roof lining and fire vertically downwards towards the trunk/boot floor. The pods ensure the sound is projected correctly. Subwoofer. My stipulation was to have an enclosure and suitable bass response that had zero loss of trunk/boot space, full access to the rear light cluster. I wanted to keep my spare wheel so that location couldn't be used. Pictures;Head unitCurrently it's temporarily looking like this;LumidockDoor BuildsAmpsThese were mounted utilising a recess space under floor trim piece and the perspex covers are yet to be installed to finish completely. Very efficient and thus only minimal heat produced even under full current draw when playing. This mounting location was the logical choice for keeping things discreet. I extensively tested with them mounted under a standard trim piece so totally invisible and perfect results there as well - never overheated. Rear C PillarsWas a little difficult to photograph them but will get better images later with a photographer I know. A little on the larger side as the speaker grille was incorporated, I'm considering making some slightly smaller ones. Performance wise, exactly what I wanted and provide that rear fill in a much better way.Subwoofer.I'm just waiting on the 3 way passive crossovers for the front subs to work. I applied a small perhaps 8x8 square of dynamat directly behind the door builds in case any flexing occured, otherwise I have no other sound deadening. Tweeters in oem corner window locations, angled slightly to give a better soundstage and makes well recorded material sound like it's emanating from the lower windscreen area. Relatively 'brighter' sounding as a result. I'm more than happy with the bass output by the 8 inch subwoofer and it constantly amazes those who hear it - they all think it's a 10 or 12 inch with one or two saying if it was a 15 inch !I had to compromise a little on the enclosure volume size in order to make it fit in the space available but to me, the difference isn't worth worrying about. A few more pics I've changed the head unit to a Parrot Asteroid Smart as it was the first fully featured, premium quality unit that has a short depth body. This means the car's airbox doesn't need to be cut/modified and thus potentially saves owners £200/300+. For a while it looked like this in the dash area; During this time, I've also designed and developed an OEM look double DIN fascia/fitting kit to allow an aftermarket head unit to be securely installed and provide much closer to OEM looks in the dash. Most owners looking to have modern features and functionality in their cars want a good reliable quality head unit but are put off by the poor, flimsy plastic plain looking fascia's on the market. My dash currently now looks like this; A much more integrated and coherent look that most owners want when upgrading to modern head units ! Any questions & discussion warmly welcomed!Cheers, Dennis!
  9. DennisCooper

    E39 audio upgrade

    Hi, Bigrigbri - You're right! I'll add some more soon ! Barry - With the OEM modules still in that location, then yes, you'll need to measure up and have a good look to determine the space available to put an amplifier. Given the relatively little space, I'd say it's a 5 channel that'd be best so it's just one unit to install. From looking at numerous other E39 install threads where the OEM stuff has been retained and where the owner wants to put the amplifier where the CD changer was, you may need to fabricate something for the amp to mount to and be securely held. As for suggestions, much will depend on the space and then checking various potential choices with other criteria such as RMS power output, price etc. How about these; http://caraudiosecurity.com/amplifiers-eq_car-amplifiers_5-6-channel-amps There's a number of potential choices from various brands there. Another selection of more focused car audio brands and amplifiers; http://www.teamspb.co.uk/default.asp There's some very small units here and perhaps one of the smallest available in the Mosconi D2 range - check each section, there's a 2 channel D2 150.2 D2 and a Mono D2 500.1 £339 and £349 respectively. These are Palm sized units so two would definitely fit. As for front slimline components, you have two choices in 5.25 and 6.5 inch from Gladen Audio, the RS130 slim and SQX130 slim for the 5.25 inch choice and RS165 slim and SQX 165 slim for the 6.5 inch choice. It's been a while since looking last, but I do recall Hertz also offer slim versions - https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-woofers-energy-evf165-5/ You'll need to look around on their site for their various ranges and then into each lineup to see which 'flat' design, I think the 'f' identifier in each range denotes it, but do double check. If you do speak to Huets, I'm sure they'll easily be able to make up the larger more solid baffles for you, unless you do wish to order in the 12V electronics ones. You could mount an amplifier in that location, Id' ensure if you do that it's a Class D one. A Class B or A/B will run warmer and as the heatsink is often on the top, then if you mount it upside down as it were the heat will 'rise' and not escape as easily, thus warming the amplifier up even more. Another member some years ago made a custom shelf there so the amplifier could be slotted in in it's normal orientation so that the heat would rise and dissipate away. Cheers, Dennis!
  10. DennisCooper

    is it really minus 14 in uk?

    Hi, I think you should show the online sources you read stuff on. It's not been -14 anywhere in the UK today. I think you are reading stuff from a month ago. Today - https://www.forecast.co.uk/temperature/ Cheers, Dennis!
  11. DennisCooper

    E39 audio upgrade

    Hi Barry, I've read and re-read your points and questions and your thoughts and as we've mentioned previously, I know and understand the route you are going given you prefer to keep the OEM modules in place. There's a few E39 M5 installs done in a similar route from members on here (who now don't post anymore) and another couple who aren't on this forum and heard their setups once all done, so I'll draw experience of those both in terms of installation/setup and audio SQ/performance. 1. You'll most likely go with the 2 RCA modification from Carphonics, so all good there. That output will connect into your PXA-H100. Some years back, I had the Alpine iXA-407BT and it was 'IMPRINT' ready and the PXA-H100 was a compatible processor. I recall, that once installed, there's a calibration mic and setup CD so that automatic sound analysis can be done and the settings saved/used/benchmarked. Perhaps look at this in a little closer detail. At the time, I was tempted to add the processor, but instead opted to keep it more simple as 95% or more E39 owners most likely wouldn't go down this route along with good positioning of the speaker drivers and more solid fitment/install required to get the best out of such a setup. This moves me to your point about the speaker choice. Ideally, given what the processor can do, you'd have the front speakers in a custom door build with different positioning. I understand you don't want to go this route so speaker choice for you is a little more open/wider choice. BigrigBri mentions what you'll read 'most' on the forums, which is an 'auto choice/recommendation' to go to 6.5inch drivers. The concern/issue here is having enough clearance/mounting depth considerations. Different drivers in a 2/3 way component setup will have different mounting depths, so that's the first aspect to consider. In the OEM location, then the back of the door card sits close to the speaker's cone/surround and when the speaker is playing, it can touch/hit the back of the door card on full outward extension which will be heard as 'buzzing'. To remedy, you'd perhaps make some 'spacers' to have the speaker sit further back, so that'll resolve the 'buzzing' but might introduce a problem with the mounting depth. To compensate there, you'll need to choose a speaker with less of a mounting depth. The good news is that in recent years, some quality car audio speaker brands have 'slim fit' drivers in their components ranges, the flip side is they generally are their intermediate to higher end ranges and the costs are of course increased. If you stay with a entry level components choice from the high quality speaker brands, then going 6.5's means more work to ensure you have them fit so that there's no buzzing on the back of the door card and that they're not too deep. You have the now discontinued BA SC50's (was it SE50's, SA50's or S50's?) and these were such a model choice that their electrical characteristics meant they played well with the varying impedance of the OEM amplifier/setup. At 55W RMS and with a lower end frequency response to 60Hz, that's not too bad for a 5.25 inch component set. The OEM plastic pods are designed for the OEM (mediocre) paper coned speaker. When you put in much more capable speakers, then the internal air volume of them is such that the 'mid range' frequencies become much more pronounced, which gives a more unnatural sound. When those pods are removed and the MDF/Birch Play baffles are used, the rest of the door cavity becomes the enclosure and the speaker will play much better due to that and being a much more solid base, there's less flexing resulting in a better stronger lower end and mid bass response. Some of the E39s and M5's I mention above have 6.5's with the work done behind the door card to ensure good fitment/no buzzes and higher rated at 75/90/125 W RMS and run with more RMS wattage from the amplifiers used. In my install, I went with DLS R5A's, a 5.25 inch component set and a phenomenal performer as they respond down to 50Hz and the mid bass they are capable of is awesome - I've had a number of the UK's well known car audio sound off competitors have a listen and they did think I had to be running a 6.5 inch for that kind of mid bass! So, depending on your listening tastes and how you listen mostly, there's different choices you could go for if/when you change from the BA's. Price point will be a consideration as well. Definitely spend the vast bulk of your budget on the front end, as it's where all the detail, SQ, imaging, soundstage will come from as BigrigBri mentions. 3 way is possible and it's a next step up to make the best of them which ideally is a custom door build, and would also help make the best of the processor's capabilities. Finding a 3 way set with a mid range driver to fit in the OEM location is going to mean spending big money as I think there's literally just a couple of choices that'll have a 1&3/4 to 2 & 1/4 soft dome midrange driver. I think Morel have some that fit, but not in a off the shelf component kit, might be more choices in the last couple years, I've not looked much as 3 way setups almost always go with custom door builds. 2. Rear Speakers - only needed for rear fill so £40-80 on 2 way 5.25 inch co-axials will be fine. The amplifier you use will have the rear gains/bass levels/frequency band set to lower levels anyway so you've got less to worry about RMS wattage. You'll not need to worry about the plastic pods either, just remove the oem drivers and pop in the new ones. You'll most likely set them up to provide 'some' level of rear fill which will be enough to play the differences via the processor, but, only a little time needed here. 3. Have you mounted the Sub drivers under the rear parcel shelf like where the OEM M Audio subs go? or like Richard P and installed in specific small enclosures just under the rear speakers (if I remember correctly as how he has them installed in his car!). The most efficient, easy to install, cost effective subwoofer route is a small, sealed enclosure that fits up against the rear bulkhead and which has the sub bass 'flow' through the ski hatch into the cabin. If your location is different, then depending where, there's a varying level of inefficiency. It sounds as though you are happy with this aspect regardless. 4. Nowadays, there's a lot more 'small footprint' amplifiers available with excellent to phenomenal RMS power outputs coupled with excellent efficiency. 4/5 and 6 channel very small units exist so I'd say go for a single unit with 5 channels minimum, as it means you only have one set of installation aspects to do. These amplifiers use Class D amplification technology and worries about heat a reduced to practically zero. Due to them being so efficient, if you choose modest/mid levels of RMS power output, you'll not likely need to uprate your car's electrical system as well. I use 2 very small Class D Arc Audio amplifiers in my install. I have them under a perspex panel and there's no real airflow and although we don't tend to get hot summers in the UK, whenever we have had 'hot' days, I've driven my car for extended periods of time at loud levels and I've not had one thermal runaway/shutdown happen with them. All the established well known brands will have these kinds of amplifiers and you'll also get choices from Amplifier only brands as well. Prices will be at the 'mid level' if you wish to mount only where the OEM CD changer is given physical dimension considerations. If you do want to go with 2 amplifiers, then you'll need to ensure you have space for them in the location where you are thinking and all the extra wiring/RCA cables/adaptors etc you'll need. You will have extra choice in amplfiers including the really tiny ones if you wished! Stick with Class D units and there's no extra concerns, if you go Class B which is more traditional, then heat dissipation/cooling does become more of an issue when it comes to mounting locations. These amplifiers are also more budget friiendly. Please do compare all the above with Huets, Sextons and other high quality reputable installers. Also nearby to you is Studio In Car - https://studioincar.com/ Carl did my custom D Pillar pods, perspex paneling cover and my CF cloth seat back covers as well as some tidying up of the audio. Huets have done plenty of E39's previously and I'm sure Sextons have too. Like you, I personally prefer excellent SQ with some good clean, powerful when needed, tight and controlled sub bass - I'm not wanting to shake the pavement ! More than willing to talk on the phone as the above is a good overview, but always good to talk, I'd meet up if my car was fully back on the road ! NF - I know you've changed your setup lately and I've not kept up with your direction. You might need an amp or may not. Can give you a call or meetup locally again if you want. BigrigBri - cheers for your posts as well! haven't seen much from you lately ! Cheers, Dennis!
  12. DennisCooper

    E39 audio upgrade

    Hi, BarryM -I will get you a response and some recommendations once I've a little more time to think and evaluate some aspects. NF - Similar for you as well. Cheers, Dennis!
  13. DennisCooper

    Good place to rebore wheels in West Sussex / Surrey area?

    Hi, Go to Holman Engineering in Addlestone - http://www.holman-engineering.co.uk/ Cheers, Dennis!
  14. DennisCooper

    It’s been a while....

    Negative - the OEM Hybrid Analogue/Digital TV tuner only works for Television reception. If you want DAB through the OEM setup, you can either go with a modified unit from Carphonics, or find the incredibly rare Alpine TUA-T100DAB unit. With the Alpine unit, you'd need an Intravee and possibly an Intravee Breakout box - check the Intravee section here. I think there's some work for both routes in getting good quality reception by using high quality antenna's and the need to fit them in a good location on the car. The last TUA-T100 I sold/moved on was around £275 and perhaps back in 2012/3'ish. Only ever seen perhaps 3/4 come up since. I do know of one potentially available now and it's around £500 or so. Cheers, Dennis!