whiskychaser

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Thought you might have it on both banks. It is lean and the ECU has reached the limit of correction. So it puts the light on and leaves it to you to find the problem Check the fuel trims. If the short terms are high (+) at idle but go into minus when you increase revs, you may well have a vacuum leak. It works that way because the percentage of air coming in from a leak is high at idle but will be much less when you open the throttle. The long terms show how much correction is being added as a base line. If you do find a vacuum leak, check out the back (bulkhead) end of the inlet manifold. There are a couple of vacuum connections there. At least one may not be in use and should have a cap on it. But the caps perish with age and can fall off. Even with a mirror they are hard to see. If the short term trims are steady as you rev, you may have a lazy fuel pump or need a new filter. You can check the pressure at the Schrader valve on the rail FWIW, I could drive a couple of hundred miles with mine before the faults were triggered. It just got worse over time

The code just means that the DME has reached its level of adjusting the mixture. Image shows 2 codes. Is the other 227? You would expect both banks to be out if the MAF were the problem. You should be able to read the MAF air flow in g/sec elsewhere in INPA. To check the MAF, temp needs to be above 85C. Run it at idle and then check the air flow at say, 700, 1000,1250,1500,1750, 2000. If you plot the airflow against the rpm, you should get a straight line if the MAF is OK. For ref, these are my actuals (with a new MAF) for comparison: rpm g/sec 707 3.67 1027 5.28 1192 5.78 1515 6.95 1738 7.78 1994 9.11 HTH

You have paid for DLP so I would certainly use it. Exactly what I did when somebody rear ended my wife's car. Yes, your premium will go up. When it is proved to be no fault on your wife's part, it should come down a bit. Probably will not come down to what it was before because the insurers will point out she has had an accident - even if it was not her fault

Just re-read the 2018 addendum (file ending 190618.pdf). That says there is no longer a percentage glazing figure. But it does go on to say: 'When work is carried out that significantly reduces the proportion of glazing, or level of translucence to the roof, the conservatory or porch can no longer be considered exempt' I would totally agree that most people would not bother seeking building control advice. The contractors we spoke to did not think it was necessary. But it was certainly worth a quick call. Again, my apologies for digressing.

Conservatories don't usually come under building control when they are erected. But they may do if you reduce the natural light through the roof. I totally agree that adding insulation would be an improvement provided the issues of condensation and structural strength are addressed. Building control will not be an issue if you do not involve them. But it may be when you come to sell the house or perhaps if you come to insure it Have found links to the files I have and they are as follows: https://www.labc.co.uk/sites/default/files/labc_4893_techg_conservatories.pdf https://www.labc.co.uk/sites/default/files/resource_files/LABC.Solid-roof-conservatories-guide-labc.V2.BT_.190618.pdf http://www.labc.co.uk/sites/default/files/labcpd0115_householder_conservatory_guide.pdf My apologies for labouring the point and going slightly off topic.

From what I read and local building control confirmed, to continue to be classed as a conservatory, the door needs to be the type you might have on the front door - not an internal one. The heating has to be controlled separately and so do the electrics. If you reduce the amount of natural light coming through the roof, it can be classified as part of the dwelling so would have to have the same amount of insulation as any room in the house. It is not a problem while you own the house. But it may well be when you try to sell it I looked at having a roof similar to pauliexjr's. Ours is about 3.7m - about 10 cms from the absolute maximum design width. If additional weight is put on it, there is a real risk it will fail. One firm saw no problem with adding about 1000kg

Possibly not what you want to hear. I have looked into it in detail and it can be a can of worms. Things to consider: Condensation between the insulation and the roof itself If you reduce the translucent area of the roof below 75%, it is no longer a conservatory and building regs can apply If your current roof and windows are strong enough to support the extra weight The blindingly obvious - you lose the natural light through the roof I have 3 documents issued by LABC which may be of interest. If you PM me your email address, I will be more than happy to forward them

If you have the Teves 60 DSC, it will allow 2mph or 5% tolerance between the wheels before it kicks in. Maybe you have a lazy speed sensor on that wheel? The yaw rate sensor can also play funny tricks

Was actually thinking about this and remember the ad. And the saying 'radials on the rear'.

I suspect it doesn't actually say EGR is 'regalt' (Blocked or barred). Maybe double check that? If it is an auto, the brake switch not only puts the brake lights on but it also tells the EGS you have the brakes on.

You would be better including what model and year of the car . The controls on the dash can be automatic or manual and there are two types of board on the heater itself. So you need to know which ones you have got. The heat is controlled by two water valves on the left of the bulkhead. They default to open but can also get gummed up. You can test if the valves are getting a signal to close with a meter.

Do you know the breakdown of parts and labour? If you take the wiper blades, that is probably $30 for the blades and the minimum charge of half an hour's labour of $100. So may be looking at $200 per hour labour.

Just got my renewal notice. For the second year in a row it has gone down. (Both on my car and my wife's) On my 330i it will be £265 fully comp including courtesy car, legal cover and protected no claims . 'Every little helps'

Sadly, not totally true. The 5 speed autos in the E34 didn't have a dipstick either. Don't read the next bit if you have taken a drink of something - you are likely to blow it down your nose. The fill hole is on the bottom of the pan