whiskychaser

You might be best including the year and model of your car because things change. For example, pre 1992 cars appear to have a line going off the circuit that feeds the warning light and connects to the ABS. The handbrake circuit is essentially a switch to ground so is pretty simple. You probably have a grey 12 pin plug that goes into the back of the cluster and I am pretty sure you can only fit cluster plugs one way. There is also a connector under the centre console but I doubt you have touched it. You don't mention if you have check control. If you don't, maybe have a quick look at your brake fluid level too. Link to wiring diagrams is below. You are probably looking at connectors X271 (cluster plug) and X423 (under console) but pick the diagram which corresponds with the year of your car. http://www.wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

Well put!

With regard to the Mini, it is a little odd that the blame is put on potential 'bolstered border checks and the threat of extra tariffs'. If the UK were to impose them on components, it would be rather like shooting ourselves in the foot.

Unlike the previous 12 presidents, Trump's approval rating has never got above 44%. He is a populist so some in the US are bound to like him. They also like their guns. 'Go figure', as the Cousins like to say https://news.gallup.com/interactives/185273/r.aspx?g_source=WWWV7HP&g_medium=topic&g_campaign=tiles

On a worn box, most of the wear is in the middle because you don't do that much driving at full lock. But if you adjust it up with the wheels line ahead, you may well find it jams on full lock. So it is a compromise. You have a refurb box so I would not have thought it need adjustment. Have you checked the big nut at the bottom of the steering column? If you tighten it up too much, you may lose your telescopic steering. But it might be worth a look. I see you have had a lot of work done at the front but are your rear subframe bushes OK? Worn ones will make the car wander too

Found out a some time ago that I can drain the battery just running a long diagnostic. So whenever possible, I will do it with the engine running. Of course, you can't do that when coding so I checked out what you would need for coding. I read you need a supply of min 12.4v and max 14.4v and capable of providing 45amps. I was surprised to read that some cars draw about 20 amps with the ignition on so a 5 amp supply will not cut it. A bigger supply might be expensive but bricking the ECU is probably a risk to be avoided.

Trump's progress - or not - over the last two years: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-38663043

The man is a moron. Fortunately, he is their moron, not ours.

Possible scenario. The drum has a lip, the adjuster is not backed off fully or mechanic is just impatient. The drum is levered off resulting in the heads of the shoe securing pins being pulled through the backplate. Mechanic bends the backplate hole back to form a slot as best he can and refits the shoes. Handbrake works if you just stop the wheels and pull it on. But for the MOT, they get the percentage braking efficiency using the roller. Perhaps he doesn't want to risk it all falling apart during the test? I am sure that your garage is much more honest and reputable than this and I will go and stand in the naughty corner for sharing such thoughts

Renewed with Tesco in December. Mine went down about £35

When I discovered the item in the photo, it was tucked up at the back on the inlet manifold. I have to say that at first I thought it may be a sensor. After doing some digging, I discovered it is actually a plug. It is not doing a great deal as the end you can see in the photo is blocked off and there are no connector pins on the inside. So all it is doing is keeping the dirt out The car does not have the air pump. And it seems a bit of a coincidence that this connector is the same type and size and in the same location as it would be if it did have one. The wires leading to it are red/white and brown/white. Can anyone confirm if they have the same redundant plug? Thanks

It might be worth mentioning that the car 'goes to sleep' only after about 15 minutes. So if you are checking for drain, give it about half an hour before you get the meter out If it doesn't go to sleep, that will drain your battery too. You can soon easily tell when it has - the window switch lights will go out BTW. If it turns out that it is charging fine but refuses to turn over, don't forget the engine ground strap.

The local branch are surprisingly good. I would not dream of taking either of our cars in there if they were not. But it is a fair point

Yep. 14v is about right. A quick search reveals you may have a 14.1 or a 14.5v rectifier in your alternator. You can soon find out if you know the make and model. If the alternator isn't giving out enough voltage, you may need to just change that. Also make sure that the line supplying power to the alternator is sound as it will not work properly if it is not I would not let the battery go flat and bump start it. If you do, when it fires up you may get a surge of power which is enough to damage a perfectly good alternator. The battery will not last long if you keep letting it discharge too. You can have the charging system tested professionally. IIRC, Kwikfit may even do it for free. They can tell you how many amp hours your alternator is capable of producing. But the usual way is to run the car at fast idle (so the alternator actually kicks in) and check the voltage across the battery. Then turn on all the kit that uses a load of power - HRW, heater fan, headlights etc. The voltage should not drop.

Have you checked the alternator voltage? It is possible you are taking out more than you are putting in. If you OBC is unlocked, you can monitor it without getting out of the driver's seat.