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hippie dave

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hippie dave last won the day on September 30 2013

hippie dave had the most liked content!

About hippie dave

  • Rank
    I'm a country member
  • Birthday 01/01/1994

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  • Interests
    Beer, Cycling, Motorcycling, Boating, Cars, Steam railways, Gardening, Camping/Travelling, Rusty Junk, Setting things on fire, Making noise in the workshop, hare-brained schemes involving combination of above.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical technician


  • Garage
    E28 520i, Benz W211, BMW R100 Cafe racer.

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  1. hippie dave

    1986 E28 520i lux.

    M20B20, 5 speed manual. Cirrus Blue. Nice bits: Low miles: 104k. Good history. 2 owners from new and mainly garaged Recent cambelt and coolant change (may 2020) Recent Battery Good tyres Original velour in really good condition Quite a lot of nice options including Original blaupunkt with tape box, Large toolkit, Trip computer, Rear sunblind, Cruise control. Fully polybushed except for rear wishbones Rear beam mounts done in 2016 New fuel tank, brake pipes, and fuel pipes. Stainless exhaust Stainless Brake flexi's x6 Good Chrome Solid front struts Working instrument cluster Good dash top. Stacks of spares. It's far from sheddy but it isn't mint, this is why: I killed the rust on the arches before it took hold. So they're perfectly solid, but will need painting properly. The Passenger side front wing is the only bit that really lets the car down: It's just starting to bubble along the top seam, and has gone in the usual place at the base of the arch. A Repair patch from Valcas is supplied, in addition to a good used pair of wings. The electric aerial broke years ago and is missing- there is a rubber bung in its place. Plasti-chrome screen trim faded. It will be sold with 12 months MOT. I am asking £6500 ono for it as it stands. No p/x or swaps. I've had it for 13 years now, and will be really sad to see it go. I've decided to sell it because I'm tied up with other things*, and it just hasn't been getting much use: Its done less than 1000 miles between MOT's two years on the bounce. The car will not be sold and no viewings arranged until pandemic restrictions permit, I can provide you with as many pictures and videos as you like though, and will get better ones up ASAP. Location Didcot, Oxfordshire. Please message me via here, or call me on 07526173761. Thanks for looking, over and out, Dave. *You're stuck with me for a little while yet though I'm afraid forum5; because I've still got that E24, and I'm going to bloody well finish it even if it kills me.
  2. hippie dave

    E28 Prices!!

    You really can turn good money on whatever you like by Calling it a barn find! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254485646090 No offence intended to the seller by the way. He's clearly going to do rather well out of something that: Has been in a fairly substantial shunt (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pMiBmeMupA, skip to 1:10); Looks to have been neglected and stripped of a considerable number of essential components during the last ten years; has starship mileage and is inevitably rotten as a pear. I'm not at all suggesting its fit only for the bin, but it would be an exceptionally challenging and expensive project when there are enough complete, straight cars out there to restore. Look at the shut lines on the right hand side, too. That's potentially even got chassis damage. Yes its the flagship model, but it isn't a rare variant, especially when you consider its mechanically identical to the 535i SE. The point of my post is that with the above in mind, I'm just gobsmacked as to how a non-M5 car in that poor a condition has reached as much as £2400 with 3 days left to go! Maybe I've just been out the loop for a bit.
  3. hippie dave

    replacement gearbox

    Good idea. I've known this happen with gearboxes and diffs that have sat idle: Condensation forms on the gears, which turns to rust spots and breaches the case hardening/coating. When its run up, the remainder of the coating / hardening wears rapidly as a result!
  4. hippie dave

    Jacking Points Assistance

    Asher, As a novice welder, erm, yeah you've thrown yourself in at the deep end. Mass-produced car bodywork often wasn't exceptionally good steel to start with. Throw into the mix the fact it is strangely shaped, often difficult to access sections, thinned by corrosion and contaminated by paint and underseal, it's bloody challenging to repair when compared to straight-cut plate on a bench! Don't let that put you off though, you've done all the right things so far. John has mentioned the MIG welding forum which is an absolute goldmine of information, as are the TonyBMW threads. He's written some excellent and well-illustrated articles on fabrication of repair sections. Everyone's welding set and technique is different and you will need plenty of practise, but I'd recommend the following starter for ten for car work: 0.6mm welding wire; Gas flow no more than 4 or 5 litres per minute and don't try and weld in a breeze or draught. Current/amps/heat/power: All different names for the same thing for the purpose of this exercise. Start with the lowest setting and work up if you need to. Too much heat- you'll blow holes in the plate. Insufficient heat: the weld pool won't penetrate the metal and the weld will fail. Pulse the trigger whilst moving the torch to alleviate excessive heat build-up; Always tack the patch in first before fully welding. A porous weld (Pictured below) occurs when the weld is either contaminated (normally with rust, moisture, or paint) or the shielding gas hasn't done its job (see above note ref. welding in a breeze) Buy a good selection of small G-cramps or Toolmakers clamps. Neodymium magnets are also quite handy (mind your fingers!!) Strip paint and underseal back with a wire brush attachment: A flap wheel will thin the metal fast. Definitely have a fire extinguisher or at least a bucket and sponge to hand!! E28 specific stuff: As you've established, outer sills are available. Arches aren't. Everything else here will have to be made. Make thin cardboard templates, and transfer them into metal. A small cross-pein hammer and a set of straight punches are your friend here. Be prepared to re-make patches if they're not right- remember mild steel plate is not expensive!! The area is question is a hollow section, incorporating one bracing leg for the jacking point- that you've pictured. I've enclosed a sketch for the section that I hope makes things clearer: The jacking point itself is just a folded bit of 2mm steel, I might even have a proper dimensioned sketch of one somewhere. It welds right through to the bracing bar, sandwiching the outer sill plate. Build it up small section by small section, take your time, and be prepared to pull it out after tacking and start again if it isn't right. I did this area on my E24 recently- and found it best to start with the back (flat panel!), then the outer sill, then the end and the inner arch. If the very back of the sill is in poor condition, you're going to have to drop the subframe in order to gain the access do a proper repair. Needless to say, you will also have to do this if the subframe mounting area has corroded- which I'm sorry to report is likely! Fire risks. Pull the back seats and all the soundproofing out, and unbolt the seatbelts and pillar trim. There is a wiring loom that runs inside the passenger side floorpan: get this right out the way. Fuel pipes: It's entirely feasible to un-clamp them and tie them suitably out of the way, but if you're dropping the subframe, its worth thinking about replacing them entirely- BMW still stock them for not much money but the clamps are horrible little bastards: It's almost impossible to remove the screws without breaking them! Where abouts are you located? If you're not a million miles from South Oxon, I could possibly be persuaded to help you get started one afternoon if you provide tea and pies A few before's and during's of when I did mine three years ago: hopefully they show what I mean about building it up out of little pieces! hope this helps, DH
  5. hippie dave

    check control

    This. So in response to your question, I'd be very very surprised!! M30 cars had it fitted as standard. M20's and M10's didn't, and, in addition to a completely different wiring loom, do not have provision for some of the required sensors.
  6. hippie dave

    E28 OBC retrofit - worth it?

    Ian, to sum up what I replied to your PM as it may be beneficial to the forum at large: The coding plug tells the OBC unit two relevant (model-specific) things: 1, what type of fuel injector is fitted. It therefore knows the injectors flow rate, and it combines this with the length of the injectors pulse and the distance the car has traveled to calculate the MPG. 2, The coding plug also tells the OBC the fuel tanks capacity: relevant for the "range" function. Now, to the best of my knowledge (ie I'm not completely certain and would appreciate someone confirming this or otherwise): Injectors differed between M20 and M30 cars. This means that a coding plug from a 528 would give the correct MPG reading when plugged into a 535, and vice versa. A plug suitable for a 525e or 520i would not work. By this logic, you could use a coding plug from an M20 engined E30 in an M20 engined E28 and receive accurate MPG readout. Your indicated Range would be wrong, however, owing to the difference in fuel tank capacity between the two cars. Do check if you can still get the correct one for your car from the dealer though, because then you're home and dry. When I last looked they were about 30 pounds. DH
  7. hippie dave

    Rust to Rome Rally

    And So it begins. Third Metro not pictured. First on the shopping list: uprated head gaskets!!
  8. hippie dave

    E28 OBC retrofit - worth it?

    I retrofitted it, its a nice toy! They are fitted with a model/engine specific coding plug in a similar fashion to your dashboard: They were available from the dealer about ten years ago when I did mine, you might still be lucky!
  9. hippie dave

    Rust to Rome Rally

    http://www.rust2rome.com/about.html Has anyone here done either one of these, or something similar before? If so, how did you get on? I'd like all the tips, tricks and advice you are willing to share on both car preparation and the rally itself. Me and three (hopefully soon to be five....) other mates have signed up to the Austrian Alps route for May 2020. We'll be doing it in brush-painted Rover 100's.
  10. hippie dave

    M30 engine recommisioning

    Morning all. long time no post, hope we're all well. I'm in the final stages of recommisioning this 1986 628csi. I want to drop the sump and clean / de-sludge it, but as we know its a seriously involved job on the M30 and I'm running short of time. So, question- will a couple of flushes with fresh oil (obviously putting some oil down the bores and making sure to prime the pump) be quite sufficient, or would you say a sump drop is an absolute necessity? Do you reccomend flushing oil? Car has not run for 15 years. Engine does turn. thanks in advance, David
  11. hippie dave

    Breaking 88 mineral blue e28

    Do you have any interior soundproofing and if so what condition is it in? ta DH
  12. hippie dave

    Phone line rental advice.

    Thanks for your suggestions Gents. Changing the landline number isn't an issue if it comes to it. I don't really need a landline but it comes free with most broadband only deals- so it cant hurt. Another idea thrown my way was to set up fibre broadband: which doesn't require a phone line. It's considerably more expensive though, and much much more capacity and speed than I'm ever going to use. I only ever really do forums, emails and spotify. I set up an account with talktalk last week and am just awaiting a router now. I rang them up and explained the situation, and they assured me it wouldn't be a problem. I actually managed to get through to a human being at onestream on friday. I stated that I've cancelled my contract, and I've sent you the appropriate form so please don't bamboozle me with questions- you've already got everything in writing. I explained the line rental business and could he please free up the line for re-use now, to which he said "Its all automated and the system would have automatically generated a refusal. I'll read through the email chain, speak to my manager and call you back in half an hour". Guess what no call back. Tried returning the call twice, both times I got put on hold for ten minutes then disconnected. Bollocks to em. I'm satisfied that I've recovered my losses and consistently offered to pay what I owe. If they want to chase me they can but you know what? I think that's unlikely. Thanks again chaps!
  13. hippie dave

    Phone line rental advice.

    I just contacted the new company directly and set up an account- no middle man. I cannot get hold of the old company at all (They're called Onestream: ten foot bargepole etc). I set up an account with Onestream in October when I moved in, and paid around £68 up-front for router delivery and installation of a phone socket. I actually had to chase them for an installation date- they'd been quiet for about a week following payment so I rang them up- "oh yes he's coming in two days time, sorry we should've put that in writing to you as soon as we'd booked it". Good one! As it happened, on the day, the engineer showed up three hours late with no communication. I had to explain to my boss that I'm having the rest of the day off now- could've done without that! I got my first Bill from them in late December- and they had overcharged me by around £75. They had added that installation and router charge to the bill when I'd already paid it. My monthly usage charge was also wrong- it wasn't what was set out in the agreement (which I had in writing when I set up the account). I queried it, they said that because they'd screwed up the installation of the phone line I could keep the installation charge- they then refunded me the £68 I'd paid in october. OK, but said nothing about my usage charge. They then took the full amount of the (disputed) bill, including this installation charge which they said I could keep, from me at the start of January. Around £103. 4th January (a week ago) I went to ring them to ask why. Got put on hold for ten minutes before being cut off. So I emailed them outlining the situation, and asked them to phone me urgently so we could put this right. I explained that I had tried ringing them, and said that if they didn't call me within 24 hours, I would be "cancelling the contract and taking steps to recover my losses". Three days later, nothing. So I rang up my bank and reported them for theft, got the £103 refunded no problem and stopped the direct debit. Switched off and unplugged router. Went to set up new account with first utility- who told me about the line rental issues outlined above. So Onestream will speak to them but not to me- annoying. Emailed onestream immediately afterwords. Said I was cancelling the contract, had recovered the £103 (which I told them I would do!) and filled out their cancellation form. I have offered to pay the two months charges I owe (nov and dec) and return the router. Still nothing.
  14. hippie dave

    Phone line rental advice.

    I am trying to switch broadband providers. The new company cannot proceed until the old company give them permission to transfer the line over, which the old company have refused to do. The reason I am switching is because the old company would not respond to emails or answer phone calls in relation to a billing error. I have tried contacting them and asking them to release the line- still nothing! BT Openreach don't deal with the general public, and you have to wait 8 weeks before going to OFCOM. I kind of just want my phone line back. Has anyone encountered anything like this before and is there a way around it? DH Sorry to bore you all. hope you had a good xmas and new year. Here's a picture of my current fleet while the E28 sits tucked up under a blanket in the lockup!! We also have a target date for completion of the E24- Le mans 2019!!!
  15. hippie dave

    Standard features that you never use.

    This is a thing??