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RichardP

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RichardP last won the day on October 24 2020

RichardP had the most liked content!

About RichardP

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    BMW5 Star

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  • Location
    North Yorkshire

Garage

  • Garage
    1980 E26, 1993 E34 M5 Touring, 2003 E39 M5, 2013 F06 M6 Gran Coupe

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  1. RichardP

    2001 E39 M5 sells at auction for £32,600

    Yes, it was the only RHD Black Sapphire car made. In a picture it's not immediately obvious it's Black Sapphire though, it could easily be Carbon Black or Schwartz 2, but the interior is a dead giveaway. Whatever, it's bloody nice!
  2. RichardP

    2001 E39 M5 sells at auction for £32,600

    It's the only UK car with individual light coloured leather with black piping and comfort seats. Add to that seat backs that are not black and factory specified headrest monitors etc. it's a pretty unique car.
  3. RichardP

    2001 E39 M5 sells at auction for £32,600

    I just 'know'!
  4. RichardP

    2001 E39 M5 sells at auction for £32,600

    Very nice, Black Sapphire Metallic VIN ending in 447?
  5. RichardP

    2001 E39 M5 sells at auction for £32,600

    Looking at the pictures of that most recent one : - The wheels look too silver. - There are pixels out on the dash. - Gear knob decal is delaminating and leather is not in great nick. - Seat leather looks very 'baggy', I've seen better on 200,000 mile cars. - Front wheel arch liners are fastened with bare metal screws, they should be black. - Rear door shadow line trim is corroded. - Windscreen rubber trim is split. - Corrosion on base of drivers door mirror. - Bonnet release handle and drivers side catch quite badly corroded. - M logo on engine cover chipped. - Nav monitor screen scratched, probably had the anti reflective coating removed. - Drivers internal grab handle leather marked. - Drivers flor mat quite worn. - Underside pretty filthy with many suspension components corroded, probably original and will need replacing soon if not now. - Fuel return pipe quite corroded. - Wallet key missing. - MOT advisory for oil leak and some sign of a leak on the undertray, has it been fixed? - MOT advisory on break pads, replaced? That's just a few observations from some pictures. Cars are always worse in the flesh. Obviously some of these are very easily fixed, but for over £34k the thing should be perfect!
  6. RichardP

    2001 E39 M5 sells at auction for £32,600

    Another one has sold for even more, £34,250. https://themarket.co.uk/listings/bmw/m5/a43c29d5-8b38-42bf-8940-25d457093991
  7. RichardP

    What is this relay for.....

    I believe failure of the secondary air system will show the engine management light on US spec cars but not UK/European versions due to differences in emissions regulations.
  8. RichardP

    DSP retrofit not working?

    iBus fault maybe? Amy third party devices connected?
  9. RichardP

    DSP retrofit not working?

    5 min is an odd amount of time, are you sure it's not turning off after 1 minute? If it is after 1 minute it could be that a low battery condition has caused the radio to set itself into Transport Mode to save power. In this mode the radio shuts down after 1 minute. Both the radio and MID have transport mode, this mode needs to be reset with INPA. The DSP amp and radio module (especially BM24) are prone to dry joints. It's possible that the radio heating up is causing the joints to move and break contact. When the radio cools down again the contact is restored.
  10. RichardP

    The story of E39 M5 AK03 DJJ (so far)

    After having a new starter motor fitted to solve a long standing intermittent start problem (which suddenly became not intermittent!), having got rather dusty at the garage and taking her for a good blast down the local Yorkshire lanes, time for a clean. She wears her 18 years rather well I think. Still can't think of another car I'd rather have than this as an all rounder
  11. RichardP

    Removing the E39, M5 badge

    Correct!
  12. RichardP

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    For a long time now I've had the occasional instance where on trying to start there is just a loud click from the engine compartment and no cranking, on a second attempt she started with no problem, so I just lived with it. A week or so ago I tried to start her and just got the click but this time it happened multiple times. Eventually started but this was a fault that now needed fixing. As the loud click was undoubtedly the starter solenoid I ruled out an EWS issue, the only options realistically were the battery, a wiring issue or the starter motor. The battery was replaced in 2019 and has always been on a battery tender if the car was left in the garage, also the voltage was 14.5V and did not drop on trying to start when just the click was heard. So very unlikely cause. Visual inspection of the wiring and measuring the resistance to ground and the battery terminal showed no obvious issue. Although at the current drawn by the starter even a very small resistance can be significant. But again, unlikely cause. So I bit the bullet and had the starter motor replaced. A bit of searching seems to show that this is either a very easy job if the retaining bolts come out, or a bitch if they don't. I bailed and had it done at the local garage. The issue now appears solved, although being intermittent you never know for sure. However there is a very noticeable difference in the urgency with which the engine turns over now so fingers crossed. While looking at the starter we spotted another minor issue. One of the studs that's welded to the chassis which is used to attach the plastic junction housing for the O2 sensors had broken off. The housing was just attached by 1 point and not 2. There was no easy way to use the remains of the stud. Back in early 2017 I'd had the entire underside stripped back and treated with 'bag seal', an Epoxy coating. If a replacement stud was welded on then the Epoxy would be damaged by the heat. Of course this can all be patched up, it's just quite a ball ache for a stud that has to support about 200g of plastic housing and connectors. As the underside already had an Epoxy coating I thought the easiest solution would be to Epoxy a new stud un place using a flat headed M5 bolt with a 2cm washer to increase the surface area. Fixed this in place and gave it a thin coat of primer just to blend it in a bit as the high strength Epoxy was black. The bolt, nut and washer are marine grade stainless steel so shouldn't need protecting. Seems to be more than solid enough for the job, time will tell. The only likely failure mode would be if the new Epoxy does not adhere to the Epoxy underseal, I did roughen it up a bit and clean it with alcohol so I think it should hold.
  13. RichardP

    Phone volume

    Those amps have a fixed output level I believe, so unless the volume is just changing from exceedingly quiet to very quiet, I’d say it sounds like a radio module issue. Odd that it’s only the phone volume that does not change though, although the radio does also have a separate volume level for the phone.
  14. RichardP

    Phone volume

    If you don't have an Alpine Audio Processor, the Intravee has no control over the phone audio and is not involved with the audio path at all. So in this case it's either the radio, amp or phone module. If you do have an Alpine Audio Processor then all audio goes through that and the Intravee remembers two separate volume levels, one of them for the phone. In this case you can't rule anything out with the current info.
  15. RichardP

    Switch source settings

    The first thing to fix is the way you have the DAB connected. The DAB tuner does NOT connect to the switch, it goes between the Intravee and switch. Connect the Intravee to the ‘Output’ port and the switch output to the DAB ‘Input’ port. Not sure why you can’t rename Net 3, but get the connections sorted first.
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