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JohnH

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JohnH last won the day on October 17 2011

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About JohnH

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    Advanced Member

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    J6 M25

Garage

  • Garage
    E28 527i

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  1. Easy to tell if its the problem. When the cars warmed up, unplug the connector and jump the two pins on the cable.
  2. JohnH

    BMW e28 518i m10 gearbox - spot the difference

    Earlier cars used a sheet metal shift rod. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E28/Europe/518i-M10/R-M/oct1984/browse/gearshift/gearshift_manual_transmission_2
  3. JohnH

    Suicidal

    Well done Ivor, I thought we had lost you! I'm still standing in my garage looking at mine.
  4. JohnH

    Suicidal

    Just pop a bit of Navy Seal over it and put the carpet back. Its not within 300mm of a suspension point, so still quite driveable. Stop looking!
  5. JohnH

    M5 Upper control arms.

    I think it the upper (rear) bushes that go first causing bad vibration around 50mph and shudder under braking. The rule seems to be two bushes to one ball joint, which is why I replaced mine. I actually did the fronts (lower) as well. Its a pretty straight forward job removing the bushes.
  6. JohnH

    M5 Upper control arms.

    Powerflex https://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/E28+5+Series+(1982+-+1988)-803/1.html Very happy with mine. Very slight increase in NVH, about the same as having high tire pressures. Noticable improvement in steering response.
  7. Chopping rust out.... ... so as not to fail mot.
  8. Truly shocked. Being an aged person, The NHS keep sending me test kits, which I look at and put to one side. Not any more. Rest in peace Dave.
  9. JohnH

    Torque wrenches, what are we all using?

    Whats important, is whether its consistent or not. If its withing 5-10% then alls good. I use various old fashioned non ratcheting Britools. They make a nice Clack-Clack when they reach the setting. It doesnt matter how loud the radio is.
  10. JohnH

    Radiator replacement E28 520i 1987

    I've got both a 520i manual and a 525e eta auto radiator., knocking about. Apart from the transmission oil cooler fitting on the bottom of the rad, they are both the same size, 315mm.
  11. JohnH

    C.V. joints

    I think they just slide apart. I really cant remember. Found the xref. Not sure if it helps or not!
  12. JohnH

    C.V. joints

    Sorry Taffy, havent got a clue. Seriously I dont know. I have rebuilt a couple of sets in the past and just used the GKN (the OE supplier) kit for the vehicle build date (528i SE 9/84 and 525e 10/86). I've only done it because of torn rubbers and as I've said before changed the assembled shafts side to side to allow the balls to run on an unworn part of the joint. The earlier car didnt use reinforced trailing arms and the later one did. I seen to remember Bavaria and I had a bit of fun listing out the various combinations of components. I see if I can find it.
  13. JohnH

    Build 2

    Hi Shaun, Looking good. What are you doing front suspension wise. Are those coilovers? Looks interesting. Regards John.
  14. JohnH

    BMW E28 520i 1987 manual, high idle

    Follow Andy's advice. Its also worth checking for air leaks. Easier said than done. You really need a smoke tester. What happens when you take the filler cap off when its running? Do the revs change? The other things to look at are the throttle cable adjusted to tight and the Throttle Damper also adjusted so it is pressing on the throttle lever to much. PS, the engine s looking good to me. Nice and tidy.
  15. JohnH

    BMW E28 520i 1987 manual, high idle

    You are running LE2-Jetronic. Haynes manual 1560 has the wiring diagram in section 12, page 256 Fig12.13 I cant tell from your photos but my old Feb 1986 520i had an idle control valve on the back of the manifold. You need to set the throttle butterfly so that it is very slightly open using the screw on the throttle body (TB). You really need to remove the TB and hold it up to the light. Slightly more is better than not enough. I think 10 thou is what you want. Having set the butterfly, set the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) so it clicks off just as the butterfly reaches its closed position. Finally adjust the Idle Control Valve (ICV) to raise or lower the idle rpm. 800-900 is about right. There may be a cap on the end. If so lever it off and behind it is a slotted brass screw. The Throttle Damper can cause problems as well. Its function is to stop the butterfly closing to quickly when you lift off the accelerator in slow traffic. If its not working properly you will get a Lean Surge as the rpms drop too fast below idle speed and then bounce back up again. Keeping the throttle butterfly with a wider stop position helps to alleviate this. Hope this helps a bit.
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