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About EDWARD757

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    Arundel, west sussex

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  1. That’s a great effort. Best I got over a very long motorway 56mph cruise was 50mpg.
  2. EDWARD757

    Tyre advice

    Once again, fair points. The price differential becomes a bit bigger with the tyres I need. 235/35/20 and using Openeo gives around £50 for an Accelera and £180+ for the Michelin PS4. Even more for the OEM acoustic PS4. I’m doing about 25k a year and that’s how long the PS4s lasted. To be fair, if the difference was 27% I’d go premium too. Good shout
  3. EDWARD757

    Tyre advice

    Thank you for the comprehensive reply and I would agree with many of your points however one could also approach the issue from a slightly different angle. A not insignificant part of a premium tyre cost comes from marketing and taking part in events such as F1 or supplying journalists with tyres to burn away with drifts is very expensive. As you say, many manufacturers undoubtably spend a lot of money on R&D and it shows with my experience of the PS4. It is a great tyre but like any other tyre, once it was down to 2-3mm it would misbehave in heavy rain whereas new tyres, by means of deeper treads, can cope better, even budget tyres. Because they are cheaper one is more likely to replace them regularly and have less of a heart attack the next time I collect some screws off the road. You are totally correct that the premium tyre will out brake a budget tyre in all conditions and if I were behind another car that our brakes me, I might have an issue. If this happened it would most likely be my fault, partially for tyre choice but mainly because I was following too close. The two second rule is a good place to start but in the wet this needs to increase. It is not a foregone conclusion that a collision will occur. Because of the misleading way that the graphs are presented in the document it looks like the budget tyres perform terribly but delving in a tad deeper (the x axis scale) means in the dry I would lose 4m and wet 10m in stopping distance to a premium tyre. if one compares the Michelin primacy in the data to the ‘Goodride’ ditch finder the gap closes to 4m dry/5m wet. If those numbers make the difference to a crash or not then the driver is not looking far enough ahead, not anticipating and is too close to the obstacle/car ahead. It is not the technical handling of the car but the softer skills that will avoid the crash. The same goes for drivers that seem to want to mate with my car. The closer they get the slower I have to go. Some get it and drop back but a fair few don’t see any risk which I find stunning. Perhaps they have total faith in their premium tyres. With regards to Mr Harris’s crash I would imagine I have read the same data as yourself but drawn different conclusions. Chris is undoubtably a highly skilled technical driver. This is evidenced by his racing experience, what he can do with a car and absorbing much of his output which is very good. Where I would disagree with your conclusion is how he approached that bend or perhaps any other hazard. One doesn’t need to tackle it at 10mph to remain safe but there is a difference between track driving and road driving. On a track, the surface is generally uniform, visibility through bends is good, traffic generally goes in the same direction and fellow track users are/should be ‘on it’ with a higher interest in car control, etc. The total opposite is generally true of the road. One cannot tip a car into a bend on the assumption that the path will be clear. There are means to try and get better visibility thereby being able to carry more speed but if some idiot is doing a three point turn and you hit him, you were going too fast. He was not able to stop in the distance he could see to be clear. Having seen photos of the scene I hate to think the speed he was doing as it seemed quite an open bend. Road driving needs a slightly different blend of competencies but like track driving these can also be rewarding when they help you avoid hazards. Please don’t get me wrong that if money was no object it would be MPS4s all day long but £800 vs £160 is a big difference but in my experience, outlook and driving style I am content to consider the Accelera tyre. I totally get and respect your views although I feel there is more stopping distance to be had from how one drives rather than expensive rubber. it is not what you have but how you use it. On this theme I can also recommend the Sniff and Smith podcast. This week they muse on what if F1 drivers, for fun, trolled track days with old British Gas vans or Disco 2s on their days off. A bit off topic but their weekly podcast is outstanding....again IMHO.
  4. EDWARD757

    Tyre advice

    Just for the fun of it I can heartily recommend Accelera Phi (firmly considered to be in the ditch finder category) which I had as summer tyres on my old E61 and now run on my AWD EV. Super cheap, last a long time and although around 1/4 the price of the OEM Michelin PS4(an outstanding tyre), the Michelin is definitely not four times better. They remain predictable as I load the tyre up and if the ability to stop within your driving style is of concern then the money saved would easily cover an advanced course which would ‘out brake’ any premium tyre. Take Chris Harris’s recent t boning of a pick up with a 911. I’d put money on MPS4s or the like being fitted and despite his comment “speed was not a factor”, I’d suggest it clearly was as he hit an idiot doing a three point turn around a blind bend. By definition he was going faster than the distance he could see to stop in. This is why road driving can be so challenging as the entry requirements and on going standards for a driver are so low. The Acceleras on the BMW covered about 30k and I’ve done 3k in the EV so far. Turns out they are a mild all season tyre. I get no wheel spin despite the torque, they got me up a snow covered hill when all around me were literally in the ditch and testing so far is reassuring. I have yet to bend any metal in 26 years of driving. Very good points about the dates on the sidewall. I can recommend Openeo although my recent purchases were around 18months old. Whatever you chose it will be a decision you have to be comfortable with after balancing all the research you have conducted. best of luck, Ed
  5. EDWARD757

    E61 tailgate struts

    First time around I bought a cheapo set off eBay and no joke, it almost cost my sons life. The boot door flew up with such speed (normally I’d be doing it so would make it slowly rise) that it went off the stops then can down with its full weight onto his head. Fortunately he was using the boot to put his scooter in and as such had his biking helmet on his head. The helmet was a write off but it saved him from serious injury or worse. Don’t mess about and get the Stabilis (or whatever they’re called) ones from Autodoc. A doddle to fit, smooth and will last the rest of the cars life.
  6. EDWARD757

    £7.50 thermostat fix-530d

    No problem. When I bought the car I could see, thanks to this forum, that the car was running cold and therefore got money off the car for what I knew should be an easy fix. I replace the main and EGR thermostats with BMW parts and the main failed again within six months on fresh coolant too. This led me to the R5 job. If I had my time again I’d go straight to a R5 thermostat with a small hole for bleeding purposes. Good luck
  7. EDWARD757

    How far do they go?

    I sold my 08 E61 530d last year with 212k on it (original, untouched auto and turbo) and the last time I contacted the new owner she was just over 230k with no problems. In my care she got oil and filters every 10k, gentle warm up and cool down and spent the majority of her time cruising at 60mph. Great cars. DPF was a PITA until I got to the bottom of the logic and the glow plug/controller were comsumables.
  8. EDWARD757

    £7.50 thermostat fix-530d

    Hi, I sold my E61 about a year ago but IIRC the thermostat didn’t completely solve my DPF and MPG issues. The temperature came up and stayed up ever since which helped a lot with the mpg but the DPF refusing to regen continued for some time. I tried all sorts of tricks but in the end I read that BMW code the DOF to time expire at 300,000km or 180,000miles or so. I found a guy that would tell the ECU it had a new DPF fitted (possible only in LCIs I think) and straight away it behaved with low back pressures. I haven’t read about the other fix that seems popular but the Renault 5 thermostat fix, whilst quite amusing, seemed to do the trick for me. Towards the end of my ownership I had the EGR coded out and an economy map put on. This took my typical MPG from 42-43 up to 45-46 or so. I do miss the car and the new owner says she is still going strong, no problems and very nearly at moon mileage. I don’t know whether this reply helps but good luck.
  9. EDWARD757

    A/C has died :(

    As suggested by Marko, any good place or Kwikfit would put in a UV dye when testing which reveals where the leak is. On my old 530d it was some form of impact and damage to the radiator at the front. This got changed and we were back in business. I’d also recommend running the AC at all times, unless the windows are down. It is better for the seals, keeps the interior dry and these days uses minimal fuel. Try not to think of air conditioning as a cooler system but as a system that conditions the air so even run it in the cold months, all year around. Im confident the UV (or high pressure air) test will reveal the culprit. good luck, ed
  10. EDWARD757

    Farewell and thanks

    The maintenance costs were generally the odd £100-300 hits every now and then. The oil changes were about £80 all in with me doing as much of the spannering as I could. Good point about code readers they can make you paranoid. On th either hand they are invaluable for the DIY owner. The C110 allowed me to get to the bottom, along with tips from here, with my recurrent dpf fault code. Mine turned out to be the BMW ‘life expired’ message despite it appearing to run well. A guy with a better scanner told the car she had a new dpf and happy days. Generally the idle back pressure would be single figures. At the height of dpf not regenning issues the car became sluggish and asthmatic. Once I got to the bottom of it and kept hitting clear codes, she finally started to regen and over about 15 miles became a new car again. i did plan to get the gearbox serviced and looked at making a trip if it to Dortmund but once I got to 120-130k still thinking about it I decided to leave it and see what happened. Not a single issue over 211k. I regularly used the manual modes on hills, used the full rev range, etc. Same box on the wife’s old car, which we still have, and no issue to date. happy miles to all. kind regards, ed
  11. EDWARD757

    Farewell and thanks

    Hi DDD, We’ve gone, dare I say it, electric with a pair of model 3s. At some point I’ll sell the wife’s TDV8 Range Rover. Although not worth too much, factoring in the mpg, parts, etc and best part of 50k/year on the fleet the man maths said it was almost a no brainer and that’s before I started getting 5p/kWh overnight and some free electricity at work. my 530d was an auto and a cracking car. here is the list of things I had done to her which I put in the advert... About 19,000BMW SunningdaleOil service About 35,000BMW SunningdaleMajor service 39,789MACS MOTMOT 55,538KwikFit (Why do this?)Discs/Pads, tyre, Full service – discs and pads replaced again 66,658JayGee autosService 79,429JayGee autosService I bought the car at 95K 95,500MeOil, Air, Fuel, Pollen filters (Cotswold BMW), Castrol Oil All oil changes are left to drain overnight. 2xPirellis on rear Hunter 4 wheel alignment Genuine BMW carpet mats, Cotswold BMW GSR motorsAC regas Me6 new glow plugs, Beru Injector cleaner, Wynns DPF cleaner, Wynns Main and EGR thermostat, New genuine BMW coolant 105,000MeGlow plug controller 106,000MeOil filter, Mann 106,500MeInline thermostat modification – coolant around 85*c since 107,000New starter motor 111,100MeOil, Air, Pollen filters – Mann, ECP 122,000MeOil,Pollen filters – Mann, ECP 132,000MeOil, Air, Pollen filters – Mann, ECP 138,000MeRear tailgate gas struts 138,300MeFront pads, Brembo, ECP 138,500MeOil, Air, Pollen filters – Mann, ECP Fuchs Titan LL04 Oil 142,000MeOil, Air, Pollen filters 146,000AC condenser AC regas 150,000MeHeater blower – Hella, ECP 152,000MeOil and Air filter 153,000Me2xXenon bulbs – Philips 5300k 154,000Me2xNew wipers, Bosch, Costco 162,000MeOil, Air filters 163,000MOT New nearside track rod end 168,0004xnew tyres, accelera summer 172,000MeOil, Air, Pollen filters 173,000Me6xglow plugs, Beru 173,500GSRRear tailgate hinge cabling replaced – Silicone wiring, Sencom Germany 184,000MeOil, Air filters New rear wiper 185,000MeFront Pads, Discs, Sensor (Brembo/Bosch), ECP 186,000Continental winter tyres (used October-March) 187,500MeEGR and 3 other vacuum hoses replaced for Silicone 187,600Hammond motorsStarter motor replaced 191,500EGR mapped out, Economy remap – slight power and good economy increase 192,000New windscreen 192,100MOT Fuel filter Crankcase breather Intake manifold seals Rear pads and sensor 194,300 MeOil, Air, Charcoal pollen filter, LL04 Oil. 202,000 MeRear tailgate gas struts, Stabilus 204,000 MeOil filter, LL04 Oil 206,000 MeNew throttle valve, ECP 211,000. New rear parking sensor, eBay special. id like to thing the turbo was sound due to the way she was driven. Low power for a few miles until warm and low power for a few miles before shutdown. Plus she got serviced every 10k. The gearbox never gave any issues and was never serviced. the battery was original and never changed. I had a quick look at her codes last night and she had all six glow plugs showing but they have never been an issue and the dpf regens fine(16mb backpressure) and I have a new control unit in the boot if the new guy decided to fit it. The other code was for a charge pressure sensor, whatever the hell that is? Didn’t affect how she drove anyway. on her OEM wheels I had conti winters...bloody awesome. for the summer I bought e92 m3 alloys...fitted really well and looked, IMHO, fantastic. One could argue she was a little like triggers broom but the big ticket stuff was all original. The build quality and feel give others (particularly tesla) a lot to learn from and I remember doing some very big distances and never got uncomfortable. I certainly won’t miss filling her up though!
  12. EDWARD757

    Farewell and thanks

    Dear All, Just under an hour ago my lovely 530d was driven away by a new owner. She was an awesome car and I thoroughly enjoyed almost every one of the 120k I did in her. Great performance, pretty good economy, great build quality and lovely looks. I’ll miss her...apart from the exhaust smell and few months getting to bottom of a dpf problem. Anyhow, enough lamenting. Just to say thank you all for all the years of advice, guidance, tips and support. The knowledge base has been invaluable and as well as saving a small fortune, the forum provides a sense of community centred around a love for cars, which should be treasured. The E61 is a great car and I parted with mine at 211k with little sign of weakness or corrosion with all the big bits being original. Good luck to you all in the future. kind regards, ed
  13. I used a c110 scanner (pretty cheap) and it’s been great. At idle I’ve been getting 7-10 mb and cruising along up to 120mb or so. When it’s not clearing I was seeing 700+mb and the performance eventually dips. top tip was to get her in the motorway and keep clearing the fault codes, repeatedly...eventually she regens....
  14. Hi Jonathan, Lon the DPF front mine time expired (as coded by BMW) at about 170,000miles. We told the car it had a new one and it’s been happy as Larry since. Idle back pressure is generally single figures. I’m currently selling the car but she is now at 210,000miles with no indication of DPF issues. Can’t help with the gearbox. After a lot of thinking I took the view I wouldn’t touch it so it is still as it left the factory but I’ve had no issues with it. kind regards, ed
  15. EDWARD757

    DPF won't regen.....any ideas?

    So 25000miles since my last DPFs issues, she suddenly brought up a filter message the other day. Only faults were a throttle activator fault and usual mass of glow plug issues. The throttle one wouldn’t clear. Bought and fitted a pierburg throttle and fault cleared however DPFs properly bunged up and refused to regen. Hammered the poor car on fast roads but temperature never got above 430 degrees. I put a bottle of Wynn’s DPFs stuff in and took the advice of a previous post and drove along repeatedly clearing faults via a c110 code reader, although no faults apparent (suspect the blocked filter fault remains hidden in the background) and hey presto the temperature soars, the back pressure plummets and the exhaust stinks of burnt something! back to single figure at idle and performance back to normal...