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  1. 11 points
    RichardP

    E34 M5 Touring restoration

    I first bought a BMW nearly 30 years ago, that was an E30 325i Touring and since then I’ve had an E36 328i, E46 330i and E46 330d Tourings. My current BMW’s are all M cars, but I miss not having a Touring. There are only 2 official BMW M car Tourings, the E34 M5 and the E61 M5, neither were built in large numbers. My preference has always been for a manual gear box, so in late 2015 I started looking for a decent E34 Touring that was fundamentally sound but maybe needed a little work. The problem is that the E34 Touring is a very usable vehicle and most E34 M5’s have been used, a lot. There are very few about that have done less than 100,000 miles, most have done significantly more. I looked at a few but none met my criteria and most had significant rust on the main chassis. A rare manual 4.6 E34 Alpina Touring that had been restored was for sale in Germany and I briefly contemplated that as an alternative. Many would argue that it’s a better car than the E34 M5, the Alpina modified V8 being much more flexible, having similar power but more torque than the rather highly strung 3.8 version of the straight 6 S38. But for some reason there is something I prefer about M cars to Alpinas, can’t put my finger on it but the Alpina was not for me. There is also some sense of destiny with the evolution of the initial M88/1 in the M1 and it’s final evolution of the S38B38 in the E34 M5. By mid 2017 I’d just about given up hope of finding a suitable E34 M5 Touring and started looking at the E61 M5 instead. Obvious benefits were that it was available in right hand drive and is a more modern car. Then there is that V10 engine, but there is also that gearbox! There was a low mileage, high spec car for sale not very far from me, so I arranged to go and look at it. While I was in the car on the way, my phone rang. Someone had found an E34 Touring that was not ‘officially’ for sale, but it would be open to sensible offers. I went ahead and looked at the E61 anyway, it was in very good condition and had obviously been well looked after, the owner had several other very nice cars including a Ferrari Daytona in their garage. However, with the prospect of a suitable E34 with a colour scheme I wanted (Avus Blue silver accents and black interior) and the E61 with a colour and interior that is probably my least favorite (Silverstone with Silverstone interior), I decided not to go down that route. My first sight of BL01698 was just via some pictures taken by a friend who lived nearer to it than me. Initial looks made me wonder if this would be a good choice after all! I had been told that it was a 6 speed car, actually it’s the earlier 5 speed version. The mileage was more than I’d been told, but still low at a little over 77,000. Apparently the car had had a minor scrape down the passenger side, then been left awaiting repair. The minor scrape was not quite as minor as I had hoped and a lot of the ancillary components were looking decidedly crusty. The interior was reasonable, except for the front seats that were showing quite a lot of wear and has some strange scratches, as though someone had been wearing a studded belt or something similar. On the plus side, maybe the 5 speed box is not a bad thing, they are readily available if something does go wrong with them, unlike the 6 speed which is pretty much unique to the E34 M5. Some reports also claim that the earlier 5 speed is nicer to drive. The car has Hi-Fi speaker system and full leather dash which makes the interior feel a bit more special. It also has a factory fitted tow hitch which was one of the things I really wanted, the tow hitch mounting was a little scabby though. The engine had had major a rebuild quite recently, so the internals would not need any work at all even if it looked pretty scabby on the outside. A closer inspection of the vehicle chassis revealed that it was mainly in pretty good condition. The decision was made; BL01698 would undergo a total restoration by Munch Legends. Pretty much everything was stripped off the car, engine, sub frames, fuel tank, heat shields, sun roof, doors, tail gate, front wings and ancillaries in the engine bay etc. One of the front wings was a little rusty and the two passenger side doors were damaged enough to warrant replacement. On examination at the body shop it was decided that the cost of replacing the driver’s side doors and other front wing would cost little more, possibly less, than prepping the originals. The entire underside, including the inner front wings, was bag sealed. The original active shock absorbers were sent to Poland to be refurbished, the rest of the suspension components, drive shafts, brake dust shields, and sub-frames etc. were either replaced or refurbished and powder coated. The diff was rebuilt and painted where appropriate. All brake calipers were rebuilt and passivated, along with all other unpainted underbody components. Most of the rubber and trim pieces were replaced where still available from BMW. All engine covers, plenum, water pump etc. were vapor blasted and repainted where required. Brake lines, fuel lines, fuel tank and all clips etc. were replaced. The fitted Powerflow rear silencer was replaced with an OEM part. The wheels on the car were rather nasty two piece after market design and the outer rims were badly corroded. There were replaced with the correct M5 Throwing Star wheels with new Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres. The sun roof was jammed pretty much solid, but eventually opened up to allow refurbishment. Most of the work on the chassis and running gear is now complete, there are still a few bits and pieces left to sort out. The tailgate needs fitting and the sun roof is in pieces awaiting reassembly and refitting. The interior has not been touched yet, apart from removing parts to allow for removal of the sun roof cassette and facilitate other work. I have quite a few pictures of the work being done, for now I’m just going to post a comparison of some of the original pictures and the same area as it is now, plus of couple of the whole car and underside. Please remember, this is still work in progress. And a couple of pictures as she stands now
  2. 7 points
    Bought it & drove it home
  3. 7 points
  4. 7 points
    RichardP

    The story of E39 M5 AK03 DJJ (so far)

    I suspect it's a little highly strung to be quite as good an all rounder, although in theory it should be more versatile. Pretty much nut and bolt resto.
  5. 7 points
    Some lovely cars posted on here; these are mine. 1973 2002tii in Verona Red; I actually bought it with another , completely rotten, 2002 in white for spares. Restored it completely once but the tin-worm was extensive and eventually I sold it for spares/repair. It wasn't this exact car as I don't have a digital photo of it; When that was gone I immediately bought one of these (again not this, but like this), a 1985 635CSiA in Articblau with full electric seats and all the toys working; it got written off by a dozy Ford Galaxy owner who reduced the proud nose to a crumpled wreck... Immediately that was paid for by the insurance I went and got this, a 1982 635CSiA in blaticblau with recaro seats and lsd; I bought this in 1996-ish and still have it... At some point in time the blaticblau car suffered multiple intermittent electrical failures so while I was trying to fix it I bought a 1989 635CSiA Highline in Diamond black with lotusweiss sports leather... I believe this is still running with moon and on the way back mileage. I sold it when I upgraded to this, my 1985 M635CSi in alpineweiss with taurusrot sports leather; I've had it restored and it is my garage queen. It generally gets all the attention but occasionally gets put in the shade... Then I decided I needed an estate car; I had ummed and ahhed about Audi Avants for years but I eventually stumbled upon this, one the 64 UK manual cars, a 1995 540i Touring with a six speed manual gearbox; Orientblau with black leather. I changed the comfort seats to sports seats and hoped I would keep it forever as it was immaculate... until it got written by a sleepy taxi driver. So how do you replace a 540i/6 Touring? With an M5 Touring of course. 1993 in black, black, blackity black - it lasted until the engine blew and the bodywork was too crusty to justify trying to save it... I still needed an estate so while this got scrapped my Alpina addiction followed my E24 and E34 addiction so I found this, a 2001Alpina B10 V8 Touring in Individual steel grey with Individual silver-grey leather; it's been a little poorly of late but I still have it... Over the years I had read about a very rare E34 Alpina Touring - the B10 4.6 of which one solitary car was made in rhd. When it popped up for sale I dropped everything and bought it... Of course I wasn't yet done with my Alpina addiction and I felt I needed a V12 in my life so after years of tracking the cars down I found the B12 I wanted; an E38 Alpina B12 5.7 Langversion, one of just two cars ordered for the UK... Of all those cars above I still have five of them, and my wife has a 435d Cabriolet as her daily driver.
  6. 7 points
    Four new MAXXIS boots today at my mate's tyre emporium near Dorking, Surrey. Also fitted 15mm hubcentric spacers on the front only as they need to come out a little.
  7. 7 points
    roofer

    Bloody women drivers!

    Says the bloke with a womans arse as his avatar ? It was a woman that did it, in a Disco....does it get any worse ? Or has pc bollox infested the forum ?
  8. 6 points
    Cadwell Parker

    Picked up this F11 on Saturday

    A new addition to the family. 530d with variable dampers. Needs a wash after driving it home but is nice and clean under the grime. Just under 60000 miles and almost like new inside. Looks like the n/s/r corner is sitting down a bit after being parked overnight so might need to see about getting that looked at under the 3 month warranty from the indy dealer. It's a lovely car to drive and we're very happy with it. Will put up some more photos once it's looking a bit cleaner.
  9. 6 points
    AlexGSi2000

    Buying an e39 M5.

    As requested, a couple of quick phone photos, the thing needs a good clean up, so have set aside next Saturday. The more I see it, the more I love it - don't the fact I now own one of my dream cars has sunk in yet. Its also cheaper to insure than my e60 525d - madness.
  10. 6 points
    ttrw2

    ttrw2's 2001 Le Mans Blue M5

    More pics of progress on the full respray underway at the bodyshop: On that last pic the bonnet had to be taken all the way back to bare metal (this was previously resprayed by Oxford Crash Repair in 2013 but the paint had started to peel - we found they'd just resprayed over the top of the original paint with minimal prep. Cowboys.) She'll be painted and back with me in a week or so.
  11. 6 points
    USTBUTLER

    Trump, like him or loath him?

    He sure is keeping election promises... More than the crowd down London and that's all the Parties included. 80 % of the people that were very angry concerning Trumps victory here in Britain that i came across typically could not stand the fact ... That the man was legally elected to power by the American people and went against their own snowflake two party nothing changes Westminster style of politics where years are wasted while the two parties play politics while really doing nothing but destabilise the country with their crap.
  12. 6 points
  13. 6 points
    Its been a while, as well theres not been much action or love for it to be honest. The missing a running E34 in my life is strong! I thought i'd jack it up in the summer, lol this is an update from the last 5-6 months. Pleased to report its not a rusty scottish looking tea bag under here. On the grass isn't ideal, but that should change soon not the best picture but the fuel pipes have been replaced so thats one job saved! Next is mounting the intercooler. Theres cutting involved here unless you want to buy a "bi turbo" bumper from Alpina for about a million quid the all important mounting brackets, these are replacements from Alpina as the originals were bent in the accident The bumper won't mount with the intercooler fitted so you have to make room for it by chopping bumper! This is most of the cutting to get the bumper to fit properly bumper fitted, the number plate holder also needs triming, or again you can buy and alpina one for loads. The bi turbo front spoiler mounts over the whole lot so you can't see any of the cutting. Its the only real part missing as it was damaged in accident. Its a £600 bill i need to stump up for, luckily you can still buy them i suppose My dad had to make a little fiddly part here that was missing* it connects this pipe to the boost controller ECU. It runs to the inlet manifold This is the throttle potentiometer. Or fly by wire throttle. I found this in a horrid oily box of bits that came with the car It was a moment i had in the shower when it all twigged. So the throttle opens and shuts now with this plugged in Back on the theme of missing parts. It takes alot of looking sometimes to notice things aren't there. So the red wire is the live battery feed to the starter motor! Plus the engine earth strap was missing - this one is a temp one. This did bring the car back to life alot. then come to today! 4 books of main dealer wiring diagrams and a mate who knows how to read them with a volt metre So some checks with a volt metre revealed the ignition switch is working and the DME or engine ECU was getting power. A good sign. Still no cranking over This is the starter motor relay, it was missing so i've sourced one and fitted it. Now the wiring diagrams reveal this is only needed for auto cars, the manual cars don't have a relay. Our guess is this is fitted for the auto selector switch on the autos so the engine will only start in N or P and not D Testing again revealed the starter wasnt getting the start signal/volatage to crank. So removed said relay and bridged the wires together aka like a manual like below Lets give it a try...............................engine cranks over!!! This turd may see the road once more, engine hasn't run at a guess in 10 years. We can smell fuel and checked for spark and have both. Theres lots unplugged but this is probably the biggest leap forward in my eyes. So the games back on! Theres no oil, coolant, radiator, intercooler pipes, auxillary belts, exhaust fitted currently so will need to get busy to get it into a postion that will run, signs are promising that it should go The loves returned for the mutant I've dont a bit more alpina wiring in the mean time but forgot to update this
  14. 6 points
    I bought this car 10 years ago yesterday. Still the one car that I'd keep if I could only have one.
  15. 6 points
    RichardP

    Lets see your BMWs that you have owned

    I can't find any pictures of my first 2 BMWs, I probably have some somewhere, but they looked exactly like these (colour, wheels etc) : 1) E30 325i manual Touring in Brilliant Red. 2) E36 325i 4 door manual saloon in Boston Green. 3) E36 328i manual Touring in Montreal Blue 4) E46 330i manual Touring in Oxford Green II (one of those colours that can look awful in pictures, but is much better in the flesh). 5) E46 330d manual Touring Individual in Le Mans Blue Then the ones I still have E39 M5 in Carbon Black F06 M6 in Sakhir Orange E26 in white And finally, currently undergoing rebuild, something in Avus Blue that is powered by this (I am missing not having a Touring). Should be ready soon.
  16. 6 points
    Here's my selection minus a 1990 318i and a 2002 318Ti which I don't have any pictures of. 1985 M535i dogleg manual with Recaros. Jazzy B owns this now. 1992 735i manual with Alpina goodies 1992 850i A with a lovely V12! My current 645ci with V8 goodness as standard
  17. 6 points
    Calypso-E34

    German Engineering

    This says it all.
  18. 6 points
    So today I've mostly been... Ordering winter tyres; gone for Yokohama Advan V905 Winter in 245/50/18 flavour Kerbing my NS rear alloy - Fuckwit white van driver came at me from a blind bend, far too fast, as I was reversing off a car park at the local PO and had no choice to re-mount the kerb otherwise I'd have lost the front-end of the car... Ah well; it's only powdercoat Will take it to the folks that did my alloys when I fit the winters and they can refurb it for me... Took some pics of the angel eyes, now fitted, whilst sat outside Preston train station waiting for my folks to land from Glasgee...
  19. 6 points
    Style 66s off, Style 65s on... Thanks go to forum member Sayanthan for a very good deal on them.
  20. 6 points
  21. 6 points
  22. 6 points
    Calypso-E34

    Bloody women drivers!

    That was as a travesty. We were happy the girls were there. The F1 people were happy the girls were there. The girls themselves loved it and were well paid. Everyone was happy except some beaky anti fun fuckers somewhere. The PC brigade.
  23. 5 points
    I like him, I wish he was over here sorting Brexit for us, he'd tell all those Eurotw@ts in Brussels where to get off.
  24. 5 points
    BSS

    E39 540i/6 Sport touring

    Its unusual for me to keep a car long enough to bother with a build thread other than an E34 M5 i once had and the E30's i currently own but i think that i will keep this 540i (my 7th E39) for a while so here we go! By pure chance or luck depending on how you look at it, the previous owner turned up at my workshop one day to ask me to look at something on the car and mentioned they may want to sell. I assumed it was an auto so when it turned out to be a manual my ears pricked up as i knew that facelift 540i Sport tourings are not that common and manual ones quite rare. Ive tried contacting BMW customer services to find out how many were sold new here but have drawn a blank.. maybe i just got someone who couldn't be bothered. According to howmanyleft.co.uk they peaked at 12 with only 6 remaining. How accurate that is i dont know as that site can be hit miss. So here it is, 2001 titan silver with black, very common colour combo and one i keep ending up with (2x prev E46's and 2x prev E39's) but at least its not grey inside. VIN WBADR52040BH99030 Type Code DR52 E Series E39 (2) Series 5 Type TOUR Model 540I TOURING (EUR) Steering RL Doors 5 Engine M62/TU Displacement 4.40 Power 210 Drive HECK Transmission MECH Colour TITANSILBER METALLIC (354) Upholstery STANDARDLEDER/SCHWARZ (N6SW) Prod. Date 2001-08-29 L812ANational version Great Britain P337AM Sports package S210ADynamic stability control S220ASelf-levelling suspension S227ASport suspension+lowered+ride-height S249AMultifunction f steering wheel S302AAlarm system S386ARoof railing S403AGlass roof, electrical S428AWarning triangle and first aid kit S431AInterior mirror with automatic-dip S434AInterior surface aluminium S441ASmoker package S459ASeat adjuster, electric, with memory S473AArmrest front S481ASports seat S500AHeadlight wipe/wash/Intensive cleaning S508APark Distance Control (PDC) S520AFog lights S522AXenon Light S534AAutomatic air conditioning S555AOn-board computer V with remote control S602AOn-board monitor with TV S609ANavigation system Professional S632APreparation BMW Handy (Motorola) S672ACD changer for 6 CDs S694AProvisions for BMW 6 CD changer S710AM sports steering wheel, multifunction S715AM Aerodynamics package S760AHigh gloss shadow line S775AHeadlining anthracite S785AWhite direction indicator lights S788ABMW LA wheel, Individual S850ADummy-SALAPA S853ALanguage version English S863ARetailer Directory Europe S877ADelete cross-pattern operation S880AOn-board vehicle literature English Not a bad spec out of the box, it was a BMW staff car originally so someone got to choose an interesting company car. 2 owners after that which have been local to where i live, the last having spend money on some of the usual E39 issues, new timing chains, new clutch and flywheel, various suspension arms and cooling system parts have kept it in reasonable heath. First thing to do was replace the tyres are they were finished on the original style 66's so an ebay purchase of a set of staggered style 37's with michelin pilot tyres helped with the looks and sorted the need for tyres. The original sachs made M sport suspension was past its best so some Bilstein B8 front and Bilstein B6 rear shocks with some eibach pro kit front springs along with some new genuine BMW top mounts have transformed the ride and handling. I know some people replace the SLS rear suspension with a coil spring and shock set up but i wanted to retain the SLS for load carrying. Plenty more in the pipe line such as some retrofits and some eibach roll bars are on order.
  25. 5 points
    At 49,400 miles my F10 declared that it had 1100 miles to go on the existing front pads. I had previously measured the brake disc thickness and they were virtually right on the limit so they were replaced too. Tools I used. Trolley jack 6mm Allen key for brake disc retaining screw 9mm Allen key for brake caliper slide bolts 17mm socket for wheel bolts 18mm socket for caliper cradle retaining bolts 11mm combination spanner for bleed nipples 3/8" torque wrench 16Nm (disc retaining screw) 1/2" torque wrench 140Nm (wheel bolts) Caliper piston retraction tool (spread type not rotational) Brake bleed kit and container for brake fluid Large flat blade screwdriver Long nose pliers Wire brush Brake cleaner and a hammer! Jack up and remove the relevant road wheel. Whilst the assembly is still complete I took the opportunity to slacken all the fixings while everything was still rigid so I knew everything was free. Counter holding the brake disc with large screwdriver between the caliper and caliper cradle to allow you to undo the brake disc securing screw. Prise the brake caliper retaining spring clip to the rear of the car and it should pop off. Working to the rear of the hub prise off the two black plastic caps over the caliper retaining bolts to expose the caliper slide bolts. The two hex head bolts are the caliper cradle retaining bolts. Before I went any further I had to unclip the brake pad wear sensor from all its plastic and metal clips. The ABS sensor wire runs thru the same clips and needs to be moved out the way first to free out the brake pad wear sensor wire. The screw driver is pointing to the middle clip on the hub. There is a vertical one to the right and another one that you can see to the left. I had to gently spread these to get the wiring out. The lower wire is the ABS sensor and below that again is the hydraulic hose. These proved tricky, particularly the one to the right of the screw driver. The pad wear sensor is only on the nearside on the front axle. Unplug the wear sensor from the socket in the black box at the top of the wheel arch. Mine was full of grit! Top plug is the pad wear sensor. I then started with the rest of the dismantling. The 9mm Allen key bit in action to remove the caliper slide bolts. Hand up who has a 9mm Allen key in their tool kit? Remove the two slide bolts, you may need a pair of long nose pliers to pull them free of the rubber guides once fully unscrewed. As my pads and discs were quite worn the caliper piston was virtually fully extended, looking at the picture above thru the inspection window in the caliper, (left to right) you can only see a slight bit of the disc, whats left of the friction material on the pad (above and below the wear sensor), pad backing and the pistons rubber boot. This amount of wear means the caliper needed to be levered to the inside of the car to clear the cradle when attempting to remove it. I cracked open the bleed screw to expel the fluid rather than force it back up the brake lines to prevent reverse pressure on a seal or putting dirt back up the lines. This meant I wasn't fighting against hydraulic pressure when levering the caliper. Lift the caliper rearwards to clear the cradle and I placed it on an upturned builders bucket to support it so as not to strain the hydraulic hose. To remove the disc you first need to remove the caliper cradle. Breaker bar and 18mm socket on lower bolt. Caliper cradle came away and I then liberally cleaned it with brake cleaner (thanks @GoNz0 for the Normfest recommendation, it worked a treat) and a wire brush. Remove the brake disc securing screw and lift off the disc. I fitted two of my wheel alignment tools so as to prevent the disc falling off the hub. The nearside fell off onto the wheel alignment tool. but the offside needed to be persuade to leave the hub with a hammer. Given the number of complaints on this forum from vibration from the wheels and or brakes, I made sure the hub flange was fully clean from rust and muck. Another wire brushing. Hub face wire brushed clean. Brake splasher shield is pretty manky, I think we will here of these rusting thru in a few years. My dad got his replaced under warranty. I then used my caliper piston retraction tool to force the piston back in the cylinder. Again I opened the bleed screw to expel the fluid via brake bleed kit. Piston retraction tool inserted between the brake pads. Gentle pressure on the tommy bar was all that was needed. Photo is a bit fuzzy, sorry, but here is the brake bleed kit set up before I started to retract the piston. Start putting things back together now. I used my wheel alignment tools and a wheel bolt to position the disc tight up to the hub face to make sure it was perfectly aligned before tightening the disc retaining screw (Allen key bit is sticking out of it) to 16Nm. Make sure you fit the right discs to the right side of the car as the discs on this car are handed. Each disc hub has an arrow showing the direction of rotation. Refit the caliper cradle and torque the bolts to 110Nm. I then greased the contact surfaces on the cradle with copper grease. This allows the pads to slide on the cradle. The pad has different metal cover over the backing plate which also form the sliding surface over the cradle. This is to prevent squeaky brakes. The outer pad sits on the cradle and the inner pad clips into the piston. Lift the caliper on to the cradle and refit the slide bolts. I cleaned up the bolts using a wire brush mounted on my pillar drill. The caliper cradle bolts were a bit corroded and had a bit of damage to the very ends of the threads (where they extend beyond the cradle and are therefore exposed) but the threads taper so clear the threads on the cradle. I should have replaced these and I would recommend that you do that too. Caliper slide bolts, which were both the same size top and bottom, my E60 had different length bolts. Tighten to 55Nm. Using a pair of long nose pliers push the wear sensor into the inner pad and reroute the wiring thru its various clips and reconnect it in the box and secure the cover. Photo taken of the other caliper, where you can see significantly more of the disc and pad thickness than the earlier picture. The wear sensor would clip into the gap on the inner pads backing plate. The caliper is wet after I cleaned off some spilt brake fluid. Refit the brake caliper retaining spring clip. BMW recommend to replace this on cars older than 4 years but there was plenty of spring in mine and showed no signs of corrosion so they went back in after a bit of persuading/levering with a screwdriver. Nearside inner pad and disc. Probably explains the vibration I was getting when braking hard at speed. Only fit for weighing in. 7 The old (original) pads are made by Galfer, the new pads I'm assuming are Galfer too as it had GA followed by the same number 5027. No markings on either the old or new discs as to their manufacturer. I bled out 500ml of brake fluid from each front caliper. See this post for how I did that. I then reset the service interval on the dash. See this post for how I did that. I then took it for a (spirited) test drive. Brakes were much firmer to the pedal. When braking the steering wheel remained perfectly straight. There was no vibration felt in anyway on the car, from the steering wheel, brake pedal or through the seat. No squeals or squeaks either. After the drive I checked the temperatures of both discs and they were within a degree of each other but were cooling rapidly so no uneven brake force or dragging brakes. The pads, discs, wear sensor and two 500ml bottles of DOT 4 brake fluid cost me £364 from my local BMW dealer after getting a bit of a discount. BMW wanted £564 for the same job plus another £80 for brake fluid change. It took me 1 hour to do the offside disc and pad change and brake fluid change. The nearside took longer as I had to free out the wear sensor from all its clips and I took all but one of the photos on that side. Up on a ramp it would be much easier and quicker! So its not unreasonable to say I saved £250, labour was a few beers for my dad. Good time spent working with my dad. Sorted and quite happy that it went o.k. I've now to take my wife and littl'un away for the weekend with the saving I made, rather than reinvesting it on the F10.


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