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  1. 14 points
    My Alpina V8s Touring out of storage today, into the sunshine!
  2. 10 points
    Just wanted to update this as it’s fully functioning again and is officially saved! it’s had new wings, a set of 18” parras, new bootlid waiting to go on, the auto box has been replaced and it’s just today passed it’s first mot in 3 years! It’s taken me a while with other things going on to round to this but it’s been well worth the wait! massive thanks to forum member AlexGsi2000 for sorting the gearbox replacement and mot prep and also providing the replacement panels! plenty of more little tweaks coming soon here’s some pics
  3. 9 points
    Yes i picked her up yesterday its all taxed and MOT'd road legal! It sat for a week or two as they were so swamped with other work So it ended up going to their bodyshop to sort the sills out These were the two front repairs needed on the sills Also some repairs on the rear of sills And re stone chipped the paint. So at least now thats all the grot removed, as although the bodywork is tatty its not a rusty pig the shell This Marks a nice chap, he got the engine running a year ago, so he was back on it this time. They've fixed the EML light not coming on so that has allowed full boost! this was some wiring into the cluster that need completing. The wiring was there. Also ABS light was on permanently, i think this was an incorrect relay. OBC is still dead, this is suspected the unit is faulty. I've got some spares in english from American cars but they are different. Reverse lights is some wiring in the tailgate suspected as only 4volts there but its not needed for MOT believe it or not. they've also wired in the ASC traction plug. The loom was there as part of the EML system So added the plug loom into it and this is working but not. ABS is working correctly and so is ASC when engine fires up. You can press switch and turn it off. once driving however over say 10mph the ASC light comes on and wont go off. ABS still works correctly. So basically i've run out of money as the welding spiralled and nothing every goes perfect! So will have to save and send back. Theres a hunch its my clocks which are a mismatch that needs sorting. Cruise control is working, that was just a missing clutch switch, I'd never ran a spec check on the base car but Barry ran it through and it was a very well optioned 525i touring! Avus blue - special order as was an M5/3 colour only manual LSD heated sport leather air con twin sunroofs OBC cruise control A fine e34 in its own right I took it for a spin when i arrived yesterday and its an fucking animal! No lie, fastest car i've ever owned. A slight tickle on 2nd on the way out had the back swinging no sweat, i caught the slide fine but wasn't quite expecting that! It must be the lightly tweeked turbos as it gets to full boost at about 1800rpm and they come in quite hard. The standard bi turbos are more linear and come in about 3500RPM. I've not driven a standard one to compare but Barry has and mine feels alot stronger. Its cold and the tyres are new but old if you get me but when the boost comes in snakes in 2nd 3rd no problem. Its going to be fun learning to drive the hot rod as it needs a bit of respect! When the rolling roads open i'll have to visit Charlie and get it on there see how the fueling is. In the meantime try and not thrash it everywhere and damage it. I just need to save some more money to keep going through it. I think this will be the biggest turning point in this project. Very chuffed and thanks to all those that have helped along the way so far
  4. 8 points
    BSS

    E39 M5 touring build

    Last weekend saw the return of the rolling shell after a longer spell than was anticipated. Before work started on the cutting and welding, the underside of the car including all four wheel arches was cleaned of years of built up mud and road grime to reveal a reasonably clean underside with only the jacking points and a few small patches that had suffered from corrosion. The M5 boot floor with all the excess metal not required now cut off. Unfortunately the donor M5 was not as clean as the touring shell which meant there was only one way to go with this..... All of the relevant panels needed to be split apart to repair or clean up the corrosion. This added quite a bit of time to the process and a new boot floor panel (now NLA from BMW) would have saved a lot of time (money!) in doing this but when you can't buy new you have to work with what you have. No turning back!!! The boot floor conversion progressing The E39 bodies Achilles heel, jacking points and the sills in general are usually the first area for them to start to corrode and a collapsed rear jacking point is often the death knell for an old lowly spec/engine E39. The end result is now a rust free E39 "M5 touring" shell ready to start putting back together. After all of the fabrication was completed and primed, 3M sprayable sealer was used then a combination of beige paints to match the factory sealer and E- coat then a dusting of Oxford green base coat to replicate the factory look of overspray from when the shell is painted at the factory then application of Tectyl ML cavity wax to all of the box sections and a few key locations. Both rear quarters, both sills a new M5 rear diffuser and the pair of genuine M5 mirrors all painted at the same time. Now the fun begins........!
  5. 7 points
    So - I had a weak o/s washer jet and seeing that the nozzle had broken from its cradle (a temporary fix sorted for that) I was about to change the entire washer pipe with the two nozzles until I read that the weakness may indeed be being caused by a blocked filter in the washer bottle housed in the o/s front wing. I didn't fancy pulling the wheel arch liner off to get to the filter (for a proper clean) so though I would attempt this first as a quick fix. IT WORKED A TREAT so it's worth an attempt before you start pulling the car to bits. You will need: 3 meter fish tank pipe or similar. I bought this: Clear 4mm Air Line Aquarium/Fish Tank/Pond Air Pump PVC Hose Pipe Tube | eBay Bucket Bleach Kettle Big puffs of air! Hose/clean water supply. Process: Under the bonnet at the back on the drivers side, near the A pillar, disconnect the inlet pipe from washer bottle that connects to the nozzle rail/pipe as per pictures. Note - it has a wired connector for heated jets etc. Be careful how you remove so as to not break the connector. Once freed, pull it behind the bonnet so you can access it and then blow a good few hard puffs into this pipe as per the pictures. You should hear the bottle bubbling. Blow several times into it. Feed the fish tank pipe deep into the washer bottle and then syphon the contents into a bucket. Be careful not so get any of the contents into your mouth. Warning - it tastes vile! DO NOT SWALLOW (daft statement I know). Keep blowing as per 2 as it's syphoning. Once empty - poor some bleach into the washer bottle 100ml - not loads and then put a kettle full of boiling water into the washer bottle. Leave a few minutes - repeating step 2 as many times as you can. Repeat the syphoning process (I added some more cold water at this point) continually blowing as per 2. After two full kettles what was syphoning for me was clear with no bits in the pipe. I then added clean water, repeated the process of blowing and then activated the washers to clean the pipe to the nozzle rail. This squirts high so make sure you're in the car and no one is near! Note the contents of the bucket with all sorts of congealed gunk extracted. Gross. I reconnected the pipe (1) and hey presto I have full power washers across the screen again! Running clean water at the minute. I was using Tesco Ready to Use Screenwash, may order some BMW genuine stuff off EBAY. Worth a go if like me you didn't fancy the wheel arch method - which may of course be needed for some/me at some point.
  6. 7 points
    BSS

    E39 M5 touring build

    5.45am V power fill up before heading round the M25....... .... before meeting up with a load of E39 M5 owners at Beaconsfield services...... ..... to head up the M40 to the meet at C&M. An enjoyable morning out with some nice M5s including plenty in some rare individual colours. So impressions... it goes and stops just like an M5, it handles pretty much like an M5 with the Eibach rear ARB helping to keep the body roll with the extra weight in check. Ride is nice and compliant compared to my M4 despite the Bilstein B8 shock absorbers and with every bush, ball joint, mount, suspension arm and steering rod being new its a tight as can be. Only down side is 3rd gear syncro has had it so a quick change up or down into 3rd will mean a crunch. Annoying as it means a box rebuild and I had no way of knowing this as i couldn't drive the crash damaged M5. Very happy with how it has turned out so far and despite there being a snag list plus a few other changes i would like to make, I am looking forward to doing those as and when.
  7. 7 points
    E39mad

    RIP HRH The Prince Philip

    A little anecdote following the passing of HRH The Duke of Edinburgh: 1989 Cowes Week, have finished college and I am crew on the main boat in picture Fraggle. Our fleet started 10 minutes behind the Sigma 38 fleet one of which was helmed by HRH. Our boats were quicker and we would usually pass their fleet on the first downwind leg. There were some gobby guys in our fleet and one shouted over when passing HRH on the first spinnaker leg: "Oi Stavros....don't gybe in my effing water" to which there was an immediate retort from Prince Phillip who didn't even turn to look at the offender "It's my wife's water and I can gybe where I bloody well like" RIP
  8. 6 points
    LukeH

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    A little bit of MOT welding at the rear. Front to be investigated in due course but this should see it through a few more tickets. More arch work required at the rear before some finished paint can go on. This was using the outer sill panels available on eBay, much thinner than what was cut out but are still up to the job provided the inner structure is sound which thankfully mine was.
  9. 6 points
    Oilburner

    Diesel Fuel Filter Change

    Diesel Fuel Filter Change, this was the first change for the fuel filter at 32,300 miles, I noted that BMW say approx 37,700 but as it was convenient for me to do it early, this was how I completed the task warning picture heavy, tools I used 8 mm and 10 mm sockets, Milwaukee M12IR-201B 12v 1x2.0Ah Li-ion 3/8in Cordless Impact Ratchet, just socket set would do, but there is a lot of small bolts to undo, and the impact ratchet is ideal and quick, Cutters if this is the first filter change to cut of old fuel pipe clips, Screwdriver to prise of U clip, Wheel ramps, although you can use a Hydraulic Jack and Axle Stands jacking up the near side, a Container to catch the diesel when removing old filter, nitrile gloves, you should wear Safety Glasses to prevent any diesel that may splash in your eyes, finally if this is the first fuel filter change you need Jubilee Clip as the original clips are one use only, I used two stainless jubilee clips one at each end as I found it easier to put the U clip back in the new filter and fuel heater unit of the car. Caution If using a Hydraulic Jack you must use Axle Stands to secure the vehicle safely, I've seen a few youtube videos online using just a jack to change the diesel fuel filter this method could lead to a fatal accident. Once of the ground remove all the small 8mm bolts from the under body plastic tray this will expose the fuel filter which is situated just behind the N/S front wheel and the front passenger door. Remove U the Clip it can be prised out using a screwdriver, also remove the fuel pipe clips as required when pulling of the fuel pipe be aware diesel may spray out, then remove the fuel filter clamp fixing bolt. Note:- BMW Used Mahle Diesel Fuel Filter Remove rubber insulation from old filter and fit to new filter in the same place. Fit rubber washer that is supplied with new filter as shown. Refitting new diesel fuel filter, fuel pipe clips, securing U shaped clip, and secure fuel filter mounting bracket. Before refitting underbody plastic tray check for any fuel leaks with engine started, the initial starting to get fuel back to engine, I pressed the ignition on and off several times without engaging the starter, then after a few cranks the fuel system had self primed and started, you can also use ISTA to prime the fuel system but from what I've been told garages don't use it either to prime the fuel system after changing out a fuel filter. I did wash and clean both sides of the underbody plastic tray before refitting, but this is my OCD coming out. I did have to resort to getting my wife to help hold the underbody tray up whilst I secure the first couple of bolts, with the underbody tray being quite flexible and long, it was proving very difficult to get the bolt holes lined up, once you get the first couple in its ok.
  10. 6 points
    BSS

    E39 M5 touring build

    Using every bit of spare time available (without the wife divorcing me!) I have been pressing on to meet a deadline. New parking brake hardware, new rear wheel bearings with the M5 hub flanges (note the two grub screw bolt holes non M5 E39's don't have), new discs pads and rebuilt callipers. Saloon and tourings differ in where their parking cables pass through the knuckle, 12'o clock on the saloon and 9'o clock on the touring. This presents a minor problem in that the M5 uses bigger rear discs and there for bigger back plates so there a two options to address this issue, either weld in the centre of a touring back plate to an M5 outer or cut down the touring back plate to clear the M5 disc. The latter is the route I chose as its easier and welding thin bits of steel and they have a shape critical to the operation of the parking brake. Another saloon/touring difference that needed to be overcome was the rear brake hoses. On a saloon the hose come out of the calliper horizontally then attaches to the rigid pipe in a vertical position. On the touring the hose comes out at an approximately 45 degree angle then turns rearward to a horizontal join of the rigid pipe. The reason for this is to clear the shock absorber as again there is a difference in mounting points, the saloon being vertical in to the top of the inner wheel arch and the touring at about 30 degrees to the rear subframe (as can been seen in previous pictures). To overcome this custom made HEL braided brake hoses were fitted to the rear with matching non custom fronts. Bilstein B8 shock absorbers coupled with the existing Eibach pro kit front springs, new top mounts, all four arms new with the brake reaction (upper) arm bushes replaced with Powerflex, new M5 (like the rears two grub screw holes plus two locating pins) wheel bearings plus as per the rear new pads, discs and rebuilt callipers. Front end coming together. Along with the new fuel lines was fitment of the M5 specific fuel filter and pressure regulator set up. And now on to one of the areas I enjoy with a build......... The M5 body loom laid out. As mentioned at the beginning of the thread, an E39 M5 touring build has been done several times before and having trawled the web to see others approaches I found that people have taken one of two ways when it comes to the wiring alterations required. Now I suspect their chose boils down to the base touring they chose to convert as to the approach they have taken, the two choices being alter the existing touring loom to suit or use the M5 body loom and alter it for the touring specific parts such as tailgate, self levelling rear suspension (if retained) with the latter involving a lot more work. Other differences to throw into the mix is if the touring as ASC or DSC (all M5's have DSC), wether the touring is a Diesel or petrol and even more importantly if the touring was built before 09/98. This is particularly important as the E39 had a major technical update from this build date (and all M5's were post 09/98) which also including a lot of the electrical components and wiring.. There are also differences between V8 and six cylinder cars and even after the 09/98 technical update there are a few slight differences. The upshot of this is that the easiest touring to convert is a post 09/98 540i manual that is a similar build date to the M5 donor car. Never the less...... ..... using a 03/99 built 540i auto touring and an 09/99 M5 meant minimal wiring alterations to the touring loom but still plenty of wires to be harvested from the M5 body loom to integrate the Sport button (for different throttle map and steering), manual transmission and S65 vs M62 differences. As with my E46 M3 touring project, all wiring alterations were done without cutting and soldering so all terminal numbers and wires colours are as per factory wiring diagrams.
  11. 6 points
  12. 6 points
    RichardP

    My E26!

    After rather a long time without much to report, I took the opportunity of lockdown to have some minor cosmetic repairs. A previous owner had fitted a stainless steel exhaust which was one of the first things I removed when I bought the car, replacing it with the OEM system. However, in order to fit the exhaust, they had to enlarge the cut out in the rear bumper. Although largely unnoticed by anyone else, this had always irritated me, so I decided it was time to do something about it. This is the enlarged cut out You can see where the profiled of the edge of the hole changes where it had been cut. The remaining piece on the right of the hole was very thin and had started to crack. I used a local body shop, Chris Gregory, that I have used before on my E39 M5 and who do a lot of work with TVRs so know a thing or two about GRP. The repaired hole now looks as it should, and as it did when it left Ital Design in 1980.
  13. 6 points
    BSS

    E39 M5 touring build

    A large pile of parts accumulated while the car was away at the bodyshop so it was time to get cracking with it. New OEM brake and M5 fuel lines fitted up along with new accumulators for the self levelling rear air suspension. Rear axle built up using the modified rear subframe, rebuilt M5 LSD, refurbished lower arms and hubs, new bushes throughout, all new upper arms, new wheel bearings, new top mounts, new drop links, new nuts and bolts, Bilstein B6 shocks, Eibach ARB, Arnott air springs, refurbished drive shafts plus other bits and bobs. Blasted and painted subframe built up using an M5 ARB, M5 steering box, new centre drag link, all new bushes, all new M5 PAS pipes. Original rod bearings replaced with the engine @ circa 125k miles Rear axle bolted up and in along with the fuel tank using new tank straps Engine and box mated along with the recently replaced clutch and flywheel, bolted onto the built up front subframe using new engine mounts ready for its "marriage" to the body All bolted up in to the engine bay and back on all four wheels with the rear air suspension inflated. The result of 27 hours over the bank holiday weekend. Lots more to do!
  14. 6 points
    Hi, here is my wife's bmw we've had it nearly 6 years, will be very sad to see it go. Bought it with 100k on the clock, it's only show 135k on it now, 6k a year It's been a proper joy to own and drive, it's never been mapped or mucked about with engine wise, apart from swirl flap delete, less then a 1k ago I fitted all new dics and pads and sensor all round, ate dics and pads, 6 new glow plugs with module, new engine thermostat and egr thermostat, had gearbox serviced with new sump pan/filter, full service with castrol oil, had all four wheels refurbished by platinum alloys, genuine 19in spiders with no welds or flat spots, with continental fitted 275 on rear, its got the latest idrive fitted which I've had all updated and sat nav, fitted led number plate lights, led driving lights, led angel eye bulbs, had steering wheel redone with M stiching, think its called a royal steering wheel, got wheel spacer fitted all round just gives a more fuller look, done all tailgate harness when I first bought it, fitted new wiper arm less then 1k ago, done a few bits of coding on it with carly app, has heated front and rear seats, ipod fitted from new, still got Original bmw uk number plates fitted, genuine floor matts, always had boot liner fitted, bought spare wheel and tool kit for it, so could do away with runflats, plays dvds in motion, everything works perfectly and has never wanted for anything, folding mirrors on key, full book pack with every record and receipt since new, 3 keys, body work is in very very good condition for age, alway detailed weekly, plus had it ceramic coated, drives outstanding. Please feel free to ask any questions, £6500 ono
  15. 6 points
    After having a new starter motor fitted to solve a long standing intermittent start problem (which suddenly became not intermittent!), having got rather dusty at the garage and taking her for a good blast down the local Yorkshire lanes, time for a clean. She wears her 18 years rather well I think. Still can't think of another car I'd rather have than this as an all rounder
  16. 6 points
    Sandip

    SOLD - 2003 BMW E39 535iA Sport

    Sapphire black - all original paintwork apart from previous repair around boot lock Mileage is 110k MOT until March 2022 Mixed service history with regular self-completed oil and filter changes by current and previous owner Inspection II and Inspection I completed ahead of schedule in my ownership 5 previous owners, with last one also a forum member 2 keys Original sales folder with all booklets Specification includes: Factory privacy glass from B-pillar Sand beige leather interior made to look like Champagne with two tone door cards Rare Poplar wood inserts, spare Vavona set Staggered 18inch M-Parallels in excellent condition Auto lights Auto wipers Cruise control Dual zone auto climate control PDC front and rear Electric adjustable steering wheel Electric adjustable and memory front seats Heated front seats Power fold, auto dim and heated mirrors Auto reverse dip nearside mirror MK IV sat-nav with 2020 disc Digital TV Bluetooth preparation Intravee II with comfort functions set up; follow me home lights, DRL angel eyes, PDC distance display, one touch indicators Recent work: New battery October 2020 Good Year Eagle Asymmetric 5 tyres all around November 2020 with less than 500 miles covered 4 wheel hunter wheel alignment New OEM BMW wheel centre badges New OEM BMW boot and bonnet badges Inspection I completed by independent specialist July 2020 - 4 green bars remaining Gearbox flush, oil and filter by transmission specialist November 2020 Rocker cover gaskets, oil change and spark plugs by independent specialist February 2021 Rear brake line and brake fluid change by independent specialist February 2021 Near side wheel bearings March 2021 Deep valet and engine bay detail March 2021 Fuel filler cap March 2021 Gearstick magnetic solenoid lock April 2021 Bad bits: (see pics) Paint work bubbling near boot lock Car park ding on drivers door under wing mirror An enthusiast owned car which has been well looked after being a great buy for the next owner to continue the feat. SOLD
  17. 6 points
    Style 66s refurbished in Ferric Grey fitted 17x8 straight set, sat on 15mm hubcentric spacers, fitted with 235/45/17 XL rated Michelin PS4 tyres New genuine BMW tailgate roundel fitted too I've also cleaned all 4 wheel arches, scrubbed them clean to get rid of any hiding / compacted dirt on the arches (all fully intact with no rust/corrosion at all ) and the arch liners have been treated too Sad, I know, but it's nice to have it all fully spotless
  18. 6 points
  19. 6 points
    Andyrt200

    E39 Touring catch up

    Nothing had really gone wrong with it till 2016 then the water pump let go, don’t ignore noisy bearings! Luckily I was very close to home so got back ok. Not long after an accumulator burst hitting a pot hole, it was very rusty. I managed to get the old one out but had to cut the pipe to do it, I could see there was no way to get the new one in without removing lots of removing of things so just put the new one under the fixed bit of the floor. The floor can’t be fixed back down so the bit of wood held it up fine for the little use the E39 was getting then. They got mounted properly underneath when I finished the work below. The air bags started leaking very shortly after so they both got replaced & a new accumulator for the O/S fitted in with the N/S one. I spent ages chasing leaks / sagging suspension after that I narrowed do to the valve block, I tried cleaning the valves a few times but they never held for long a new block was needed in the end. It drove ok like that but I could feel the rear end getting much worse almost every time out. The MOT only ever mentioned the rusty rear brake pipes, but it was obvious all the rear suspension needed a good going over before it was going to get pressed back into daily use. So I gave the underneath a good cleaning before starting: Son too busy on Xbox to help! Back in the garage & dried off: That ball joint didn’t look too good to start with Then looked much worse closer up! I wasn’t very impressed with my friend who builds rally cars out of E36 compacts & MOTs occasionally for extra money not spotting this! Rubbers gone on most of the rear ball joints. The front generally looked fine but the knocking noise my MOT friend could hear but not find was immediately obvious: That ARB link was all the front needed at 180,000 miles. So the limited time available was concentrated on the obviously knackered rear. The only thing my MOT friends did keep mentioning was the rusty brake pipes: I had tried to wax them a few times but its very hard to get proper access. I had quickly waxed that subframe mount but it clearly wasn’t going to last like that! Once I started scraping the other subframe mounts they were all rusty under the factory stone chip paint. They all got cleaned up, then painted with Hydrate 80 & Epoxy Mastic on top. BMW thoughtfully put joints in the brake pipes behind the under cover: So connecting up new copper pipes was easy Well, easy once I got the proper tool on the left, one on the right was crap! I forgot to undo the big nuts while it was still on the ground! Everything off apart from the hand brake cables, they didn’t want to budge & I didn’t want to break them as they looked fine, so they stayed there! Bit over due for replacement! Bearings on tool gave up on the other side, I just used some oiled washers instead. A few of the many boxes: The tool for the touring that @jimmy hires out made changing the subframe mounts easy. Back together with all new arms & new bearings both sides. The sills were still holding up ok from the Hydrate 80 & hammerite a few years before: I hadn’t taken the jacking pad off last time so decided to redo it as it was up in the air: Deox gel going on to remove the rust. I was running out of time before it needed to be back in the road, this was the front after 1st go with the gel So hydrate 80 it was as there was still some rust left: Then the expoxy mastic: Then plenty of S50 wax inside the hole before new jacking pads. Quick test fit of BBS wheels from 6 series: I think that was without spacers, too long ago to remember! I thought I’d go with a genuine pipe on the front so I didn’t have one copper pipe on the distribution block: So I was mildly annoyed to find it was a different colour to the originals & still need bending to fit! Very shortly after putting it back on the road I started getting ABS lights on the dash & these errors: So the ABS module in the picture one back needed sending off to get rebuild, think they go dry jointed from memory. Calipers rebuilt. Found one of the fuel pipes leaking so that needed a new one too: The vapour barrier on the rear door had been leaking & got the soundproofing very wet, it rusted out the plug in the floor so it needed a quick patch: You can’t see that now with underseal on it. All the bits replaced: Back together & with the BBS CH-R wheels on properly: The wanted section on here turned up a proper Sport bumper lower section with the removable bit for the detachable towbar. I had been taking the entire original panel off each time I wanted to use it before.
  20. 6 points
    Nice little write up in this months BMW Car magazine
  21. 6 points
    Kit

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Sourced and fitted a period oem roof box. Surprisingly little wind noise.
  22. 5 points
    So, this time last year I bought my 530i Sport Individual Saloon in Techno Violet from a BMW specialist dealer in Mid Sussex. The recorded mileage was 56,600, with 2 former owners plus the dealer. The dealer indicated he'd fitted new Brembo brake pads and discs all round and carried out an Inspection 2 service, and the vehicle came with a new clean MOT. I paid a premium price in the expectation I'd not find too much wrong with it, given the mileage . During 2020 I've had to replace the following with new, using local BMW Independent Garages: Transmission Electric Gear Selector Switch (limp home mode) Air Intake Bellows (fuel trim warnings) Lights Control Module (LCM) (hazard warning system inoperative). Aux Electric Pusher Fan (whine at low speeds) Viscous Fan Coupling and Blade (rattling badly) Air-Bag recall at main BMW dealer. In addition to this, and doing the work myself, I've also replaced with new: Radiator Grills Gear Selector Bonnet Alarm Windscreen Washer Pump Petrol Filler Cap Four Door Entry Sills Door Side Moulding Window Moulding Cigarette Lighter and Ashtray Interior Courtesy light Traffic Module Switch (TM) I've also had the air con system checked out and re-gassed (which cured the nasty whine at low speeds), carried out detailing to the car interior, and refurbed the seat belts (now work like new). So, the cost for the year (in addition to the purchase price) has been £3000 approx. I'm now working on a plan of work for 2021, which I'll need to cost and prioritise. I guess you'll see from the above that an E39 can be an expensive proposition if, like me, you have to use local garages to do major works. The cost for a competent "weekend driveway" mechanic buying their own spares and doing the work themselves would be very much less of course. I've been struck by how many problems are age related, not mileage related (for example Transmission Gear Selector Electric Switch and Lights Control Module (LCM), both expensive items to put right). I've already started on the refurb programme for 2021. Watch this space for further details and costings.
  23. 5 points
    Gte86

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Vanos seals, at last. Auxiliary deflecter pulley, coolant change and fully engine clean and degrease. I'm hoping the oil leak was from the dipstick tube seal.
  24. 5 points
    BarryM

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Took the car shopping to give it a short run ahead of MOT on Thursday: I’m not expecting any problems!
  25. 5 points
    Greenfingers

    F11 N57 Intake Manifold Cleaning

    Put it back on today without any major dramas. I didn't clip the hidden electric connector back onto the underside of manifold, to make for an easier job next time. Another thing I did that may be a useful tip for someone was to swap the corroded bolts from the EGR pipe at the flange connection with the identical but pristine ones that secure it to the cylinder head. It should mean they are easier to undo next time. The ports themselves had hardly any buildup, with minimal carbon deposits visible on the valve stems, so I just cleaned the mating face with some fine emery paper and gave them a good hoover to be sure nothing was left in there. The car started first turn, but was missing on one cylinder for what seemed like ages. Eventually it started ticking over normally, so I hope it'll be okay starting next time from cold. While they were so easily accessible with the manifold off, I pulled the caps off all the glow plugs to do a resistance check:- they all measured between .9 and 1.1 Ohms, which I think is a good sign, but perhaps I hadn't pushed one of the caps back on properly. Here are the obligatory before and after cleaning pics:-


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