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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/16/2020 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    got his 540 last year and over the year done a fair bit to it, first was have gearbox sorted so was fitted with on from an alpina with ecu, then i got double glazing fitted, i already had my wheels, bumper and mirrors off previous car, fitted full airlift air ride, sorted all new arms out on it, and then with this lockdown i managed to refurb the wheels andredye all my rare leather parts i got a couple years ago, everything was champagne anyhow but the seats and armrests bt redyed so it all matched, seats are e38 sport contours, which i then added heated elements and active massage too, welded the brackets i chopped off some e38 comfort that had tables so these could be fitted, modified e38 arm rest on tilt and slide with phone connection, im still working on the phone, it had a v50 and ive converted to bluetooth, just waiting on an aerial to test it out now, pretty chuffed hw its turned out, next is quad exhaust as ive modded the spare wheel well to accept another pipe, then paint to make it mint as couple of little rust spots to sort, modified e39 handles using genuine e38 fiber optic for external illumination, e38 inter illuminated handles, custom trims with individual badges, and some individual kick plates i had for god knows how long heres some pics enjoy
  2. 11 points
    Quick how to replace your blower motor if your getting a burning smell coming through the vents. You can replace just the motor but I replaced the hole unit with 2nd hand genuine bmw part. 1. On the top right of engine bay remove the plastic 3 tabs holding the cover . 2. Remove plastic trim piece revealing top cover of blower motor. At this point you will need to remove strut brace for better access 15mm socket if am not mistaken completely remove bottom bolt and just enough of top one to move brace. (Ignore the fact the blower is out in this picture) 3. Remove 4 T25 screws from top cover. 4. Then remove sensor on bottom rigth hand side. 5 lift out cover revealing the motor if foam on top cover is dirty clean it. 6. Remove 4 T25 torx screw from the blower motor. 7. Remove the 2 sensors top left and top right. Top left Top right 8. Remove the motor this is the hardest part you could remove struts holding bonnet but I never bit of fiddling got it out. I got a used motor on ebay £45 with few extra T25 torx bits as I dropped 1 down into engine bay. 9. Make sure the white thing at bottom is clear its a drain and with a small turn it just turns out. Mine was clear. Clean everything out before refitting everything in reverse order. 10. When reinstalling blower motor make sure these 2 parts in bottom 2 photos line up like top picture they just slot into each other. Looks bit daunting but its very easy will all make sense when you doing the work. 11. Clear codes as there will be faults stored. I could smell same burning smell for short period after start up but cleared. You all done take you bmw for a clean and pat yourself on the back.
  3. 8 points
    At 54,842 miles I discovered a broken front offside coil spring. I had heard a couple of soft clonks when driving it earlier in the day and I suspected something was amiss. The F10 has double wishbone suspension at the front rather than Macpherson struts of the previous generations which means the top mount is rigidly fixed to the strut and therefore correct alignment of the top mount is critical to ensure it goes back in. Tools used Trolley jack Pair of axle stands Ramps for supporting the car on its wheels 13mm socket for existing strut top mount bolts E16 Torx socket for new strut top mount bolts 17mm socket for wheel bolts Wheel alignment pins 18mm socket for lower strut bolt head 21mm socket for lower strut nut 18mm combination spanner for anti roll bar link nut Torx T40 bit for counter holding the front anti roll bar balljoint 18mm go thru socket for strut spindle 6mm Allen key bit for counter holding strut spindle Spring compressors and relevant socket or spanner to drive this. Various sized ratchets and extensions Large adjustable spanner Torque wrench up to 140Nm - wheel bolts EDIT - 05.05.2020 This procedure is for a car with unmodified MSport suspension (option 704) by leaving the upper wishbone attached at both the inner wing bolts and to the steering knuckle/hub. A good comment below states that the method I used, leaving the upper wishbone fully attached to the car, would not work on cars with the following options, Variable Damping Control (option 223) or cars with Adaptive Drive (option 2VA which also incorporates VDC). These have more equipment attached to the strut making them too bulky to remove using the method I adopted. An SE or Luxury model may have a longer strut length which may mean there is in sufficient room to lift the forked bottom end of the strut over the lower wishbone. If you are reading this in America and you are lucky enough to have an xDrive version, it certainly will not work on a car with xDrive, as the forks of the strut, would need to be lifted up and over the driveshaft, which ain't gonna happen using this method! You would need to remove the upper wishbone from the inner wing or split the balljoint between the upper wishbone and steering knuckle/hub to get enough room to get the strut out. Jack up and support the front of the car. This takes the strain off the anti roll bar links so you can separate them from the strut. Counter hold the anti roll bar balljoint shank with a Torx T40 bit while you undo the nut with an 18mm combination spanner. Once the nut is off, push the balljoint shank thru the bracket in the strut. It helps to turn the link to get the balljoint out of the bracket. Next using an 18mm socket on the lower strut bolt and a 21mm socket on the lower strut nut, undo the nut and pull out the bolt to the rear of the car. Using a 13mm socket undo all of the upper strut mount bolts, remove two completely and leave the one nearest the outer wing in place but slackened. Depending on how big you are, get your chest on top of the brake disc and push down on the hub, while pulling the bottom end of the strut towards the hub. Now push down again on the hub with your chest and lift up the bottom of the strut so that it clears the lower wishbone and push the bottom of the strut to the rear of the car. Strut is now free at the bottom and is held by the single top mount bolt. By pushing down on the hub this way, it saves touching any of the three bolts on the upper wishbone. Remove the last strut top mount bolt with your right hand while you support the strut with your left hand and lower it down to the ground carefully. Spring completely toast and has taken out the gaiter on the bump stop. I made some marks on the top mount to aid reassembly. Two of the casting ribs line up directly with the lower wishbone and one lines up with the bracket that the anti roll bar link bolts too. Note there is quite a length of threaded strut spindle protruding above the top mount. As my spring was broken roughly two thirds of the way up and the coils had pushed themselves together, I struggled to get my spring compressors in to get a good grip on the spring. I therefore took the decision to undo the strut spindle nut until there was only a couple of threads beyond the nut. I could now get enough room with a tap from a hammer to get my spring compressors in and get a grip on the spring. Counter hold the strut spindle with a 6mm Allen key and undo the spindle nut with an 18mm go thru socket. Clean up the strut, top mount, and the upper and lower spring seats. The upper spring seat has markings to line it up on the top mount. and I made a mark to line up the lower spring seat to the strut. The lower mark is less critical as its the alignment of the upper spring seat and therefore the top mount holes which need to line up with those in the inner wing which are slotted as the strut is to be rotated clockwise when its fully seated. And the lower end needs to sit aside the lower wishbone. Little in the way of error at this end. Mounting the strut in a bench l lined up the spring compressors There needs to be an almighty compression put on this spring to shorten it to get the strut reassembled. Once I ran out of strength I mounted it in a bigger vice I turned each spring compressor two full revolutions before removing it from the vice and rotating it to the next spring compressor and so on and so on until it was short enough to fit the strut. My right bicep was on fire doing this! I would check how much I still needed to compress it by regularly placing it back over the strut. Once its short enough, place the top mount, upper spring pad and the new bump stop over the spindle and tighten up a new strut spindle top. Again you will need to counter hold the spindle. Torque spindle nut to 34Nm. Carefully unwind your spring compressors ensuring the marks on the top mount line up correctly with the position of the strut. I put two turns on each compressor and worked around in a clockwise direction making sure the top mount stays correctly aligned to the strut. Took ages, but worth it. Must get better compressors! Looking good! Thank goodness that's the difficult bit done! Take back to the car. The rest is a reversal of removal. Get your chest pressing down on the hub again while you lift the strut up and into position so the forked lower end straddles the lower wishbone. Try and line up the hole as best you can, and get the top mount bolts installed to take the weight of the strut. I had to use a large adjustable spanner to help align the lower strut holes up. A small tap with a hammer on the bolt head, which is inserted from the rear so that the nut is on the front. Tighten the nut 21mm socket, while counter holding the bolt with an 18mm spanner. Do not tighten fully as the car needs to be on its wheels and the suspension settled before the final tightening which is 90Nm plus 180 deg. Torque the top mount bolts which are new and now a torx head, E16 size to 28Nm. Re fit the anti roll bar link into the strut bracket and use a new nut. Again you will need to counter hold the balljoint with a Torx T40 bit. The torque setting for this nut is 45Nm plus 45deg. My torque wrench immediately clicked at 45Nm. I'll leave it at that. Refit road wheel, looks so much better than it did last week! and lower car on the the ground. Insert "the wife" into the driving seat because she is clean and you are manky and get her to carry out a few maneuvers to settle the suspension. Drive car up ramps so that you can get to the that lower strut bolt to torque to 90Nm plus 180deg. Ahem, torque wrench clicked straight off at 90Nm. Oops! I put some marks on the nut with a pencil and yellow marking crayon on the tip of the hex that is pointing downwards, I'll tighten it and just watch for that part of the hex moving around. All I could muster was another 1/4 turn before I figured I might break something on the car, my socket set or me! I had made sure the bolt head hadn't turned. It's tight enough for me and I can live with it. No idea what it is at as I had already over tightened it by going beyond the 90Nm with just the ratchet from my socket set. I clearly don't know my own strength! Back on its own four wheels again, which I will need to check the pressures on before I drive it as I forgot to do that last weekend when I put the summer wheels back on. Would I do it again, well I said I'll change the NSR as its the only original spring on the car and ideally should be done in a pair. However I should get a proper set of spring compressors, the half moon type I think. I was fairly confident I didn't need to take the upper wishbone off the car at the inner bolts, loads of videos on youtube of lowering kits being fitted show the upper wishbone being removed from the inner wing. BMW say to split the balljoint between the upper wishbone and the steering knuckle to make more room, but I really didn't fancy trying to split that balljoint if there was a work around. Takes a bit of effort to push the hub down but it wasn't too bad and certainly reduces the amount of other components that need to be disturbed and more nuts and bolts that should be replaced. A good day's spannering.
  4. 8 points
    Deepest Yorkshire, just round the corner from the Woolpack!
  5. 8 points
    Uber Soldat

    E34 Touring - 525i to 540i 6 speed

    Replaced some seals: Right engine mount: Left engine mount: Alternator power cable and knock sensors: Waterpump: Coolant accumulator: Dampner: Alternator: Tensioners and pulleys: Belts and power steering pump: Redone power steering line and more stuff: Tappet cover gaskets are next. Previous owner used copious amounts of gasket maker...yay.
  6. 8 points
    sharkfan

    So what are you doing in isolation?

    That's a complete garage piled up... Going up... ...and cars installed...
  7. 8 points
    Stripped, clayed, polished and waxed then newly refurbed wheels on
  8. 8 points
  9. 7 points
    540i/6DB

    Sterling Grey E39 530 Sport Touring

    Purchased from member sutts last week (also acquired from the forum by him), my 2nd E39 Touring although this one is in far better condition! Lots of paperwork and history came with it and it was obviously very well cared for in the past. Notable extras include auto lights, auto wipers, folding mirrors and auto a/c.
  10. 7 points
    Random shot I took on Sunday in a very small lane in wales lol
  11. 7 points
    Ray112

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Felt so bored this afternoon, that decided try to improve headlight lens condition. They were not bad, but wanted more clearer, glossy finish. Sanded with wet and clear coat on top. Looking good now. Will give a buffing after few days, but already satisfied with look.
  12. 7 points
  13. 7 points
    duncan-uk

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Finally took a brave pill and tried the 3M headlamp restoration kit - pretty amazing results with not too much effort. I did these so i can sell them but reckon with a little more time they would be 100% (not that the results are bad!) i
  14. 7 points
    I'm a happy bunny now. I drove two hours to the dealer in the previous car (msport suspension with the runflats refitted for sale) two hours and then got straight in the VDC car. Even with runflats on the VDC car, the difference was obvious as soon as I was off the forecourt. The car doesn't jiggle about and become upset from even minor road imperfections, and is much more composed through holes etc.. Comfort+ on the motorway was exactly as good as I'd hoped, and not as wallowy on B roads as some posts would leave you to believe. I'm surprised how composed it is despite managing to be very soft and smooth. The Pano roof and oyster interior makes it feel really light and airy, and the 6wb dash and pro nav is a big improvement over my previous 6wa and business nav. Memory seats is nice to have, and the speed limit camera is surprisingly handy. This is what I'd hoped the previous car would be like, and is what I'd expect from a modern 5 series. Looks like I'll be keeping this for a while! Thanks to everyone for the advice on the VDC.
  15. 7 points
    Not sure if I’ve posted this before but it’s one of my favourites!
  16. 6 points
    @Dirtydiesel - Thank you sir. @FLX - I am extremely chuffed. At this stage its easy to forget it started as a shell. There hasn't been too many issues other than the tree nailing you in the head with those round balls of pain. The rainy season starts now though, so it will make things a little interesting. Onto another update. The Touring chronicles - Part...Complicated friggen sunroof First off, find all the broken pieces... Have a spare sunroof cassette and strip it down Cables and stuff "Repaired" actuator thingy These hold up and move the rear panel All assembled. Sunroof "bench testing" Removing the current cassette And the reason it didn't want to work Swapped in the other cassette And added some panels. Viola. When plugging the motors up, they didn't want to sync (They weren't connected to the cassette at this stage). When pushing the button up (Which would presumably sync the motors) the front motor would just spin for around 20 seconds and stop. Pressing the button in anything other direction, nothing would happen. The rear motor wouldn't do anything either, except a bunch of clicking relay noises from the module. Being a bit hesitant to connect the motors to the cassette itself for fear of breaking stuff, we read about the motors needing some resistance i.e grabbing onto a cable, in order to sync. We put some vice grips on the gear so it would jam against the motor housing to create said resistance when moving and the motors synced. We were then able to put the motors into their "rest" positions and bolt them onto the cassette. More celebratory pictures. I can now retire the darn tarp. Thankfully it doesn't leak...so far.
  17. 6 points
  18. 6 points
    ttrw2

    ttrw2's 2001 Le Mans Blue M5

    8 months since last update, whoops - blame covid! The M5 has been tucked-up in a garage since February, when I was fortunate enough to buy a house with a double garage large enough for it and all my crap. Since the lockdown I've been working from home so not needed to the use of a car regularly but last weekend I got her out, washed and took for a spin. Forgot just how special they are tbh. During the lockdown I'd done a few jobs on the M5, mainly finishing the new headlights. I searched high and low for new, good quality lenses but couldn't find any so reverted to reconditioning the lenses I had by sanding down, lacquering then polishing the lacquer to a crystal clear finish: And finally a few weeks ago I bought one of these scissor lifts. The garage is big enough (once I've tidied it) to have the M5 up on the lift and work around it, lots more tinkering ahead:
  19. 6 points
  20. 6 points
    greenelekta

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Changed the oil and went for an MOT, in the rain! Passed with no advisories so all good today.
  21. 6 points
    Syemondo

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    More Messing in lock down. I've done something I swore I'd never do and tinted my own windows. I tried to get a couple of local guys to do it but they were not working. Spent £25 on decent tint film and started at the worst one which is the back window. Wasted a bit getting the hang of the way it shrinks with the heat gun but got there eventually. I took my time and did it over 4 days. A few trips, stumbles and waste and it was done. Redone the shadowline vinyl and had a play with what was left. Fitted a heated seat kit to the drivers seat and mounted the switch on the seat side where the oem lumbar adjuster is. I've fitted them before in my e39 se seats but doing it this time on the sport seat was a ball ache. I added extra padding to the seat base and bolsters while I was at it. That's it for now. 223,000 miles on the old bus.
  22. 6 points
    Got my wheels refurbed I've always had a thing for new wheels and good tyres ( RC cars and real) but never had such a nice set for a real car, I might not even put them on to keep them as ornamental! £250 powder coated, factory colour, hub face masked and inside or rim/barrel done as well - delighted for that price. Wheels Wizards in Hamilton - guy was great to deal with and helpful with all my questions (nice touch - kept the M Sport badges and glued them back on, wasn't expecting that ) Even if I get 3 years out them I'm happy to pay that to freshen up the car. Time for a wee wipe down then onto some protection with the Poorboys and dressing the tyres...
  23. 6 points
  24. 6 points
    Just been out to remove some of the wax residue which remained inbetween the door shuts etc....and give the glass a wipe as my arms had fallen off on Friday..... One thing led to another and ended up giving the engine bay a once over...... Didn’t use anything special - just a degreaser/apc and a quick wipe over.......
  25. 6 points
    kobayashi

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Put the amber lenses back on and fitted a new washer fluid level sensor. I’ve also managed to get a set of early mats in the correct colour, only taken about 12 years of searching!


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