Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Ant89

    Ant's 98 535i Project

    Not going to lie, she is looking pretty fine! Still a few deeper marks but the gloss is excellent. The headlights came up really well and the engine bay is gleaming. Just need to sort the LED flickering issue then she will be back in storage. Do I go back to OEM headlights? Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  2. 3 points
    Hi, Those lamenting that it didn't get used and has been and most likely will be tucked away unused needn't worry too much ! There were around 2.43 million E30's made, so common as muck still, the vast majority of those did and are being used, so it's always possible to buy one of those and drive it ! Nothing wrong with garage queen cars and the very best examples will eventually get sold for big money to those with pockets deep enough to purchase. Cheers, Dennis!
  3. 3 points
    Tried the 3M headlight restorer myself a few years ago, but C- results. Finally got someone in who knew what they were doing. Hadn't realised quite how bad they were until I saw the before and after (left and right). They also gave it a proper clean - scrubbed up pretty well for an old girl, I reckon.
  4. 3 points
    535i Andrew

    New car

    Lol, call me an old git but is there an OFF button for that?
  5. 2 points
    BSS

    My E30 M3, the story so far....

    I thought i share the tale of my M3 on here as some of you guys my find interesting from the feedback ive had on other forums. Its been copied from other forums posts hence why it reads the way it does in places but i hope that wont detract from it too much. JANUARY 2016 So after the sale of my old white E30 M3, http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=259586 Another E30 M3 needing some love came along.... so i bought it! Unfortunately i don't have many pictures of it when first bought but here is one not long after bought and mid way through some work. A bit more about this particular M3. Like the white one, this is also one of the first 5000 built to homologate the M3 for group A motorsport with this one being an even earlier built car. Another AK01 (non cat 200bhp car) Built on 14/11/86 in Lachs silver 203 with anthracite "houndstooth" cloth 0211 with the following options. 300 Central locking electric 400 Sliding Sunroof Manual 410 Window Lifts, Electric At Front 428 Warning Triangle Warndreieck 551 On-board Computer 2 With Remote Control 663 Bmw Bavaria C Electronic 681 Roof antenna 800 Air conditioning 979 Velour floot mats So a bit more optioned up than the white car! This car however was not an original UK supplied car but more on that later! The car came into work with a view to being sold by the usual sale or return arrangement at Munich Legends but after being inspected it would have needed at lot of work to get it up to our high standards some of which would have required a high initial investment before it could even be advertised and as the owner wanted a quick sale i made an offer and it got accepted. WOW! I'm sure some of you thought that after looking at the last couple of pics and this was one of the more expensive things that would have had to have been sorted before the car was even advertised. Someone (more on that later!) went to a lot of time money and effort to create this two tone effort and that had to go! As you can see from the first pic, the car was rolling on a set of racing dynamics - in 15" - which seriously dated the car but in a bad way, another thing which would have needed to have been changed prior to advertising and also not cheap to sort out. These two things combined with the window tints made up to create a very late 80's/early 90's look now considered distasteful so this had to be sorted ASAP! Other than the style efforts, the car was very low and stiff which turned out to have BMW motorsport group N bilsteins and unknown progressive rate springs which i estimated to be approx 50-60mm lowered. Body condition is very good with virtually no rust, the only bits found are some very early stages of where the wheel arch meets the sill and the square factory lifting pads being a bit frilly. The car has only covered 77k miles from new and a big part in why the mileage is pretty low is due to the fact that it has been dry stored and not been taxed since 1994!!! Unbelievable! The story behind the car is that it was taken in payment for a building job and for some reason kept unsold, possibly because no one wanted to buy it looking the way it did?! So work commenced pretty much straight away and first thing to be tackled was the suspension because it was so stiff and uncomfortable to drive on the road. New front brake back plates were bought and those along with the front struts were blasted and power coated satin black. Four new Bilstein B8 shocks and eibach pro kit springs (same as what was on the white M3 and my 325i Sport) were ordered up as well as a pair of new wishbones, eccentric wishbone bushes, camber correction top mounts, E46 convertible rear top mounts, Z3 reinforcement plates, front drop links, and a set of new unused eibach adjustable roll bars sourced from Kos were fitted which has transformed the way the car rides and handles compared to what was on before. The red dashboard removed and the bulkhead inspected as much as could be with with no signs of rot or dampness. Some rectification work was required to the alarm wiring and a minty mint black dash from Paul Z3I was fitted. A set of very nice original heated black leather seats were bought from Paul bmwe30metch and various other interior parts such as door cards, Hifi pack rear blind shelf and consoles from pacerpete plus some new seat belt stalks all made up to create a nice place to be. Last of all, the 15" racing dynamics needed to go and a few sets of wheels were considered but one set i did want were a set of M3 16" BBS and as luck would have it a fairly tidy set with tyres popped up on the E30zone FB page being sold by Joel so these were snapped up a completed to "back to OEM" look. As you can see, it has an Evo 2 front spoiler which it came with and the window tints have since been removed. So thats where we are at but some digging of the cars history has revealed an interesting past.......
  6. 2 points
    tallman85

    Creation of the BMW Touring

    I was reading on the linkedin and found this interesting article. Basically this is how the Touring Model started back in 1985...an amazing story of dedicated people. I am Touring lover, hence i thought I share this [not sure i posted in the right section]. https://www.linkedin.com/posts/bmw-group_shareyourpassion-bmwgrouplife-bmwgroupcareers-activity-6598841489403453440-_XQv Enjoy D.
  7. 2 points
    Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    I recently replaced one of the air springs on my F11. I'd already had one replaced a few months ago by an indy garage while the car was with them for some other work but after it started to drop occasionally at the opposite corner I decided to try changing it myself. Armed with the help and advice of @Munzy123 and @HandyAndy_UK among others the job was really quite easy and as long as you have a good jack and some stands available the only other equipment you'd need would be a largeish screwdriver and a 10mm open ended spanner. Oh, and a laptop with ISTA+ installed would be helpful as well. It's possible to manage without but you'll need to remove the rear underbody panels to allow access to the air suspension valve block and manually bleed the system from there. If you have access to ISTA+ there'll be less dismantling to do. Apologies for all the nerdy computer shots. I thought they might be helpful as I'd not been able to find much online showing how to use ISTA to empty/refill the sysyem. I had to buy a decent trolley jack and axle stands for the job but considering the indy garage were saying they'd need 2 hours to properly diagnose the car before making any repairs the jack and stands have almost paid for themselves already. I took a slight gamble just changing the spring without any diagnosis other than how the car was behaving.but as one spring had already been done and the car was showing 75000 miles it seemed like a reasonable bet. In the end it paid off and I'm glad to have invested in some quality equipment. To start with I connected a battery charger at the terminals under the bonnet. It wasn't the same power supply you'd find in a properly equipped workshop and only puts a slow charge into a AGM battery but knowing I was going to leave the ignition on for a while it seemed better than nothing. I also switched off everything else I could to minimise as much battery drain as possible. Next I slackened off the wheel nuts just enough to make it easier to undo them once the car was off the ground. I was only changing the spring on one side so only needed to remove one wheel but as I was fully deflating the air suspension I needed to support the rear of the car on both sides. Being an F11 I was able to use the stiffening plate behind the rear subframe as a lifting point. It looks flimsy but the supporting struts give it enough strength to hold the weight of the car. Just be sure to chock the front wheels securely as the car will have a tendency to roll forward. Once lifted high enough the car was supported on axle stands combined with rubber jack pads which fit into the jacking points. Next I used ISTA+ to fully deflate the air suspension system. After connecting the cable and establishing a connection to the car I selected the 'service functions' tab and navigated through to the option of filling and draining the air suspension. I selected the option to bleed the air bellows Then confirmed all the necessary preconditions had been met... You need to remove the 40 amp air compressor fuse which is found in the boot inside the trim behind the right hand wheel arch and numbered 182. Then clicked to confirm the bleeding procedure and then continue While the air was bleeding out I removed the wheel nuts and wheel after noting the position of the wheel on the hub. I'm not sure whether it's considered best to replace the wheel in the same position but it seemed there'd a better chance of getting it to sit flush with the hub and avoid any vibration issues later so I took a second to photograph the wheel before removing it. By this time ISTA had finished the first run through the bleeding process and was asking my if I wanted to repeat. I selected yes and clicked through the same screens as before. With the wheel now removed after the second run through I was able to feel how much pressure was left in the suspension system by pressing on the rubber bellows. It felt very soft and was easy to push into with my fingers so I guessed 2 bleeding procedures would be enough and declined ISTAs offer to repeat. The spring is secured at the bottom by three plastic tabs which engage with the the hole in the middle of the mounting. I used a suitably sized flat bladed screwdriver to push them toward the centre and so disengage them from the edge of the hole. At first I tried to unclip all three before lifting the bottom of the spring clear but I soon realised it was much easier to unclip one and twist the lower body of the spring slightly so as to prevent the first tab from re engaging while you're trying to free off the second. While holding the body of the spring in its twisted position I could then disengage a second tab. With two tabs now clear it was then easy to twist the bottom of the spring a little more in the right direction to clear the final tab leaving the spring hanging free at the bottom and clear of the mounting. To disengage the top mounting I had to turn the spring by about 45 degrees in a clockwise direction, that is clockwise if you were looking down at the top of the spring. If you look at the shape of the top of your new spring it should be clear which way you need to turn the old one. It wasn't difficult to turn, I just gripped the bellows and dust cover in both hands and the whole assembly turned quite easily. Once turned it felt quite loose and it seemed to be disengaged but was still tricky to pull down and get clear of the mounting. After trying for a few minutes and getting frustrated I stopped, looked at the spring, swore at it and tried again. This time I must've moved it in just the right way and it dropped out easily, as if mocking my previous attempts. Don't panic if it seems reluctant to come out at first. You'll soon move it just where it needs to be to pull free and you'll be left with... Take care not to twist the air line too much or it'll get kinked and need replaced or repaired using a hot coat hanger which was one method I recall reading someone had used. Next I had to undo the fitting attaching the air line to the spring using a 10mm ring spanner. . It wasn't screwed in particularly tightly and was easy to unscrew With the air line removed from the spring I pulled the threaded part of the fitting from the end after prising off the olive which grips the pipe and had a look to assess the condition of the pipe. NewTIS says the pipe needs to be in pristine condition to to ensure a good seal. Mine was not in pristine condition having score marks round the circumference presumably from the unscrewing of the fitting. I could have cut the pipe back to a clean section but would have needed to cut off almost an inch. I didn't want to leave the pipe too short or risk not making a straight cut which might not seal properly so decided to take a chance and just refit the pipe as it was. I put some tape over the open end in an effort to keep any foreign particles from entering the system. The bare air line was then able to be pulled through the hole in the dust cover and moved to one side out of the way. All that was left was to manoeuvre the spring clear of the car. This turned out to be the most difficult part of the whole job but after some perseverance I realised I had to separate the dust cover from the spring. Once I'd done that it was easy to bend the dust cover enough to pull clear and then I was able to pull the spring out from the car and give it a good inspection. It was interesting to get a good look at it. It hadn't looked too bad while on the car but now it was off and fully deflated I could see the true condition of the rubber and some of the strange symptoms resulting from failing air springs made a lot more sense. The car might drop one day but not the next. It all depends where the rubber folds. Original BMW unit with dust cover removed and Arnott replacement side by side. The Arnott one looks quite a bit smaller and came with the the new pipe fitting already in place. There was a plastic plug sealing the fitting which you need to leave in place until just before fitting the air line. I'm not sure whether you're supposed to get a new dust cover with a new spring. Mine didn't come with one but the old one looked ok and seemed to be a good fit with the Arnott spring, notwithstanding the following, so I just swapped it over. The only difficulty I had here came from the shape of the recess at the top of the Arnott spring through which the air line passes. It's a little different to the BMW unit, I guess in an effort to make it harder to trap the air line between the top of the spring and the car but makes it difficult to get a good alignment with the hole in the BMW dust cover. The hole needs to be a little lower down. Perhaps there are some specific Arnott dust covers to use with their springs. I'll look into that sometime but for now I had to get the car back together without any further delay so just had to go with what I had. I positioned the dust cover so the airline could pass through and line up as closely as possible with the connection, removed the tape I'd previously used and the plastic plug in the air inlet and pushed the air line in until it stopped. I then pulled it out gently to seal the olive as per Arnotts instructions. Re assembly is, in classic Haynes style, the reversal of the removal procedure. Offer up the top mount of the spring into its mounting hole and rotate to engage. Take car not to trap the air line at the top of the spring or you'll end up with fault codes and need to take the lot to bits again. Mine felt quite loose just hanging there but when turned seemed to be engaging positively so I was confident it was in the right place and went on to attach the bottom mount. It was difficult to pull the bottom of the spring down with enough force to engage the tabs in the hole so after a bit of trial and error I decided I'd just get it in position, try re inflating the system and see whether air pressure would do the hard work for me. I replaced the air compressor fuse and after clicking to continue I heard the compressor start working and soon after that the bellows was hard and the bottom mount was pushed fully home with tabs engaged. Referring to the photo taken earlier I replaced the wheel after giving the mating surfaces a good brush off with a wire brush and let the car back down onto the ground. It sat there, not dropping. So far so good. Torqued the wheel nuts to 140Nm, removed laptop and battery charger, put tools away and went for a drive. The Arnott spring felt much nicer that the BMW one. I'm not sure whether the ride quality degrades over time/miles or whether Arnott units are just better from the start but it's a great improvement. The car rides a lot better and the symptoms the car was displaying are no longer evident so I'm pretty happy at having done the job myself. If anyone's thinking of doing this and being put off by thought of it being too difficult... Don't think that way. As long as you don't mid getting some dirt on your hands and have the tools needed it's really very easy and will save you plenty of money for an hour or so of your time.
  8. 2 points
    Stevie007

    Tram lining on 535d GT

    Hope they replaced the tyres with one's they recognised!
  9. 2 points
    Ant89

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Went down to UK detailing academy to give the girl some TLC. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  10. 2 points
    Keliuss

    N47 Nerves...

    These were my thoughts when I originally saw the E90 post. My chain was done by BMW with a previous owner so I'm really concerned atm. Keliuss
  11. 2 points
    jake13

    New car

    Reminds me of my youth, the clubbing days And definately no low rent interior here! Very nice and I like the scissor ramp? You can borrow my Merc code reader, it's no STAR but does the job. Incidentally, Merc forums are a bit of drag when it comes to technical info.
  12. 2 points
    Dbcrd

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Found a way to fit a reversing (backup) camera to a touring having looked through many posts could find nobody who had done this - some ending up fitting the camera in the bumper. The OEM retrofit solution is less than ideal as it gets rid of some of the grab hamdle and fits a different switch. The boot handle and number plate light cameras don't seem to be available for tourings, only saloons. The rear plate that holds the two number plate lights and the tailgate switch has been split for a while so I bought another one and modified it. Will be a few weekends before I can fit it though I've done much of the enabling such as wires through the tailgate hinge area. It was quite involved at times and I might have damaged the cable though hopefully not and a new camera is only about £7.
  13. 2 points
    Eskerman

    2002 E39 2L Petrol

    got the car back to my house - now need to get it inside to start engine work - need to try and get it started - needs new battery to begin with First wash to see any problem areas on the body and I can’t find any - inside door jams are perfect as new -
  14. 2 points
    duncan-uk

    New car

    You know you've just told the internet where you live... I've removed picture just in case it wasn't intentional.
  15. 2 points
    MOT passed, no advisories.
  16. 2 points
    duncan-uk

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Assembled these ready to fit next week.
  17. 2 points
    Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Thanks. I'd been googling trying to find how to use ISTA for this job but couldn't find much, nothing for an F11, just a post on another BMW forum for an X5 so I thought it was time someone posted it up for future reference. Hopefully others will find it helpful.
  18. 1 point
    Duff

    Dipped beam LED bulb recommendations?

    Alright, lads! Fitted some dipped beam LED bulbs (cheapo eBay pair) to my LCI E60 during the week just to see how they would fare. They work fine but I would like a brighter pair. the beam distance and cut-off point are fine, they're just not terribly bright/illuminating. Can anyone recommend a decent pair? I've seen Philips ones that got good reviews but they're nearly €200 and I'd like to avoid spending that much if possible! Cheers.
  19. 1 point
    I recently replaced the ones on my pre LCI and I wish I'd seen the diagram above first! You absolutely will need a plastic tool and make sure you prise out the front section first as it has a metal covered clip. After that just take it nice and slow and it should pop out. Could just be a loose wire/dirty connection. NB I didn't do the above and cracked the plastic fascia rendering a perfectly serviceable unit worthless to sell on (I replaced them with gloss black units to match the rest of the shadowline trim).
  20. 1 point
    Boba

    Tram lining on 535d GT

    That’s quite an alarming discrepancy given that (like many I’d guess) I use the TPMS to keep an eye on my pressures! FWIW I changed to winter wheels yesterday and inflated them to the recommended pressures. After a short run to reset the TPMS the readings were spot on with my measurements on an el cheapo Halfrauds pressure gauge, so for the moment anyway mine are consistent.
  21. 1 point
    Daveyboy20

    Hello new, I'm hello

    I'll get some pics today - planning a detailing session. The interior seems to have held up well; a little bit of wear on the bolster but mostly just the colour fading a little - no cracks etc.
  22. 1 point
    Did this for my brother's car last week. He had mentioned poor mpg and that his gearbox was hanging on to gears, not changing up soon enough. First thought was the heat exchanger as I had changed the egr and main stats last year for him. Ran car checking temps, highest was 67deg C going pretty hard uphill. Behaviour was classic heat exchanger 'failed' behaviour. Didn't bother clamping off the pipe to confirm! Got a thermostat (I had bought a second set of clamps when I bought some for myself) and added in to the loop. Temps are back up to around 90 again and box back to behaving as it should, a bloody great fix. Got it before the dpf started playing up so no extra hassles. It paid for my brother to be monitoring his mpg! Thanks again guys for a great improvement.
  23. 1 point
    AlexGSi2000

    530D GT2260V - Intercooler Options?

    Just a quick update. The GT2260V turbo and intercooler were fitted this weekend - nothing too difficult, just time consuming! It all went together fairly well. I was originally anticipating installing the intercooler in-front of the air conditioning fan so the intercooler was a little more exposed, however it made much more sense to mount behind the intercooler. The aftermarket intercooler isn't much bigger than standard, however it should be more efficient. Its mounted where the standard intercooler was. I used 3mm metal bar attached to the top of the intercooler to mount using the standard slide mounts. Was just a matter of routing / cutting the intercooler pipework - its a little tight in places but doesn't really interfere with the coolant pipework. The turbo swap was the easy part - direct fit, just had to shave the engine mount down slightly. The car doesn't really feel any different at the moment as the map hasn't been adjusted yet (booked in for adjustment in two weeks time) - don't really want to boost too hard at the moment either. The pipe clamps supplied were too small for the application, so I have ordered some slightly larger 68-73mm Mikalor clamps to replace the jubilee clips at the moment. Photos below, will feed back once the map has been changed.
  24. 1 point
    Ask anything like this and your dealer will look at you blank and then say its impossible.
  25. 1 point
    Slooby

    e60 turbo on a e39 ? ? will it fit ? ?

    Might have found a much cheaper source for the 535d injectors...there's even the possibility of a group buy if anyone is interested! As for the custom mapping side of things, I have some contacts there too


×