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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I bought some genuine 18" wheels so that we can fit winter tyres to them, got them off ebay last weekend, had to drive to Wembley, but they were a bit of a bargain at £250! All 4 are straight and original, just a bit unloved and battered, but me being me I could see some potential One of the photos from the advert: Look so much better after a deep clean: General condition pics: After a good bit of sanding with 80 then 120 finishing off with 240 grits pretty much all the kerb rash is gone...then given a decent coat of etch primer and left to dry over night and in the sun yesterday (Saturday). Once little man was in bed i headed out to the garage and started to shoot the base coat....couple coats and the faces and barrels were done....gave it 20 mins to flash off (got to love fast base coat thinners!) then shot the 2k clear. Pretty chuffed with the result as this is my first time spraying proper car paint thats not in a rattle can. There are some areas where there is some "grot" in the base...but these are winter wheels and for a first attempt well chuffed. So far these wheels have cost £250 for the wheels, £80 for the paint and probably £10-15 in sundries...Got some TPMS sensors coming and they were £130 odd so not doing too bad expense wise
  2. 5 points
    After one year, I decided to change the oil in my sump. Oil service was carried out by BMW on 1st October 2018 at 48,232 miles so I did an intermediate oil change today at 52,713 miles. I did not reset any service icons etc. I also fitted a new air filter after fitting one last October as it was not done as part of the oil service BMW carried out a few days earlier. There is no dipstick on the N55 so you need to get under the car to the sump plug drain bolt, you cannot extract the oil via a dipstick tube. Tools needed Means of having the car up in the air 8mm socket 1/4" drive 17mm socket 3/8" and 1/2" drive 16 flute oil filter wrench 86mm AF, 88mm Dia (same as a Volvo) 3/8" drive. Torque wrench capable of measuring 25Nm Various ratchets I used 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Pick for removing oil seals Plenty of rags Plenty of disposable gloves. Sump pan capable of catching 6.5 litres Measuring jug Funnel Take car for a drive to get the oil up to normal temperature. I did 13 miles. Lift the car so you have space to get in underneath it. The fall of my driveway is 30mm for every 1m. 3m wheelbase, car lifted ~180mm on my wooden ramps means the front end is about 90mm higher than level, but I've got plenty of room to work safely, which is more important to me. Using an 8mm socket remove the locking bolt in the oil sump hatch in the underbelly. Put your fingers in the holes and twist 1/3 of a turn to remove the cover. 17mm sump plug drain hex head. Insert a rag between the underbelly and the sump pan to the rear of the opening to prevent any oil dribbling on to the top of the underbelly and crack open the sump plug with a 17mm socket and ratchet. Remove oil filter cap to allow air into the engine. Get your sump pan ready and unscrew the plug while keeping upwards pressure on the bolt head to limit the flow until the last second and whip it away and catch the flow in your drain pan. Oil after 4,481 miles was quite discoloured. Leave it to drain while moving on to the oil filter replacement. Place a rag around the oil filter housing. Using the oil filter wrench unscrew the oil filter cap. The cap brings away the oil filter within it. Oil filter housing (lower part) in the engine bay. Using a pick tool remove the end spigot oil seal. This is a tiny O ring which comes with the replacement filter and is not listed as a separate part on Realoem. Using the pick tool remove the large O ring from the top of the threads of the oil filter housing. Clean the oil filter housing cap and lubricate the two O rings with new engine oil to aid installation into their correct locations. Push in the new oil filter in to the housing cap. It doesn't matter which way up the filter goes. Place the housing with the new filter into lower oil filter housing in the engine bay and tighten the oil filter cap to 25Nm. I then changed the engine air filter while the oil still dripped out the sump. This is the old filter which has been in since 6th October last year. Very little trapped debris after 4,399 miles so probably doesn't need changing every year at my mileages but its £27 worth of peace of mind for me. I then cleaned up the sump plug and used the new copper washer that comes with the oil filter. I lubricated the sump plug threads with new engine oil and then torqued it to 25Nm. Clean up the oil dribbles from the sump pan and remove the rag. Pour in 6 litres of your chosen flavour of LL04 oil. The other hands were my dads who helped 'hold' things today just like I did as a kid when I was helping him. The important bit on the oil bottle, BMW LL04 which in oil spec technical speak is ACEA C3 and API SN. Grades can vary. 5W-30, 5W-40 etc. As long as it says LL04, no worries. The sump capacity of the N55 in the F10 (UK spec) is 6.5 litres. As my car wasn't quite level when I drained it there will be some residual oil in the sump which is why I only poured in 6 litres to start with. Refit oil filler cap and start engine and run for 3 minutes. Then check oil level via idrive as there is no dipstick. Engine rpm picks up during this No low oil pressure warnings which was re-assuring. Oil level not quite at maximum but "ok" so I decided to add another 250-300ml as I did not want to over fill it. Recheck oil level via idrive and this resulted in spot on level. Check for leaks from the sump plug and around the oil filter housing. Refit the oil sump hatch. I put a tiny mark on the hatch cover inline with the bolt hole so I could line up the bolt hole as you can't see the 'U' nut on the hatch cover once its correctly in position. I cleaned up the 8mm bolt and put a bit of ceramic grease on it to allow it to come out again easily in a years time. Next time I'll replace the sump bolt, the 8 mm hex bolt for the hatch and its metal 'U' nut which was quite rusty. I checked the old oil filter for any debris but nothing obvious. Engine sweet and smooth as usual. Tidy up and know that you have saved yourself a few £££ by doing it yourself but more importantly the internals of the engine are kept healthy with the frequent oil and air filter changes. An enjoyable way to spend a Saturday morning with my dad.
  3. 3 points
    Mazz

    '94 540i Touring 6spd - The Money Pit!

    Dug out of storage. New chapter hopefully starting soon !
  4. 3 points
    So I've not been on here for years! I bought a cheap non runner e46 coupe to play with for a few months, it was actually not bad to drive, 320cd 6 speed manual, which had been messed with and mapped. I still own the 540i, I cant really think what ive done with it, I also picked up some style 66 wheels, and had them powder coated in a shadow chrome last winter, as winter wheels, with 4 new lassa winter tyres, it performed great! Then had rust cut out of the arches, below boot and sill, new metal welded in, and a near full respray. n
  5. 3 points
    x4 rear subframe bushes replaced; rear 2 were ok; front 2 were both torn! Gone with Meyle HD bushes; took 3 hours all in They all came out fine and all went in fine; much thanks to @jimmy and the use of his subframe tool Quick photo of how clean the underneath of the car is too
  6. 3 points
    chicaneuk

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Working on your own cars is such a double-edged sword. When it all goes well and you fix issues, it's so rewarding. When it goes wrong and you end up with an immobilised / broken vehicle, it's utterly soul crushing. Have been there before many times. Hope you manage to get it sorted.
  7. 3 points
    makeshiftuk

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Replaced my O/S wheel arch fender liner today. I've had this part in my shed for almost 2.5 years, shame on me for putting it off for so long. Made myself laugh in the process - putting in the final screws I realised I hadn't re-connected the OAT probe cable, d'oh. Please forgive the state of my car, she does need a wash having covered 500 or so miles this week.
  8. 2 points
    Biotoxic

    ZF 6hp26 oil change

    Hi folks, This might be useful for some. So, this was on my To-do list for quite some time now and finally had a time and a place where to do it myself. At first, I wanted to find a good gearbox specialist shop, but since I live in NI I had to go to Scotland or Ireland. I decided that I will do it myself as I read mixed reviews regarding a transmission oil change. After researching I decided to go for a metal oil pan instead of a standard plastic one. Info on my car: 2005/03 535d sport current mileage 213400 Issues that I had was while being stopped at the traffic lights and the engine is warm if I step on the accelerator as soon as I release the brakes two out of three times the RPMs would increase, nothing would happen for about a second and then when the torque converter would engage it would shoot off. another issue where while driving at constant speed, for example, anything between 40 mph an 80 mph the rpm gauge would fluctuate.... exactly as it is in this video here although if I change it to DS mode(semi-sport) the RPMs would fluctuate no matter how fast I would drive. I thought its the torque converter on its way out, but it wasn't the case, at least in not this instance... Anyway, I found a good deal on eBay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122680285353 (although you can search and buy the parts separately, it doesn't have to be from this seller) UPS delivered it in three days. I checked the temperature, it was too hot to do anything so I let the car cool down a bit. Had enough time to go over the service_information manual <----MUST READ TWICE!!!!!! one more time The old plastic sump New metallic sump on the right Old oil sump out Not too much metallic deposits on the magnets, it's a good sign The oil itself, it looked like if somebody hasn't changed the engine oil in their petrol car for a good while... it didn't smell like it was burnt or anything . Mechatronics unit in its glory and the important bit... Those 4 seals in the middle of a gearbox, they need changing, but you can't change them without removing the mechatronics unit first. I suppose in all those threads about fluctuating rpms at a constant speed, almost all the time they are fixed by getting and installing a refurbished torque converter and that ''this is the only way'' might not be true!!! Maybe yes, but whenever I changed all the seals myself, the hard ''take off'' and ''fluctuating RPMs'' disappeared. so, I am guessing, if somebody changed their gearbox oil ''with all the seals'' they are the most likely culprit as it hasn't been done properly. Take a look at the difference yourself!!!!!!! the black seal(second longest from four of them) comparing to a brand new seal, you can see that it has shrunk noticeably, it was the same for the longest seal as well. I suppose they don't make enough of a tight seal to make/hold a required oil pressure, that's why rpms fluctuate.. Someone at the BMW parts department has messed up, as it didn't fit due to a small plastic notch on the other side of a plastic, see the difference in an image. I changed just the rubber bits as the old plastic case was still ok. New separate oil filter installed All tightened according to the manual listed above All done and change the engine oil while at it. The red bolt is a magnetic sump plug, will see if there is any metallic bits in the egine oil, next time its needs changing, looks fancy as well Job done. I reset the oil adjustment and also reset the adaptations(not the factory adaptations for the pressure plates) using ista and following the service information sheet to the point. Total cost including all the extra tools(torque wrench and a ''large syringe'' ) was about £280. Time wise better to do it over the weekend in a warm garage. There will be plenty of parts to be cleaned and put back together. It can be done alone. It worked for me! The gearbox is still learning my driving style, but it already feels like a brand new gearbox. Well worth doing and no need for a new/refurbished torque converter. I hope this helps somebody. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
  9. 2 points
    sjak92

    Bye bye G30

    So the 520d is no more. I got a cracking deal on a trade in and also car was developing some slight niggles which were starting to aggravate me. With 8 months left on the warranty it was time to chop it in. replacement is a 2020 model year X5 30d M Sport in Mineral white (which is really pretty) , despite being a stock car it has all of the spec that I wanted, being: Panorama Glass Roof Sky Lounge Adaptive LED headlights M Sport Plus pack which includes Sun Protection Glazing, M sport blue calipers, m seat belts, shadowline trim (no chrome anywhere) 21 inch alloys, memory perforated sports seats, m sport active exhaust. Sounds pretty bloody decent for a diesel. Technology Pack Head Up Display, Harman Kardon, Connected Drive Professional, Wireless Charging, Gesture control, Wifi Hotsport, Live Cockpit, Parking assist plus, display key, advanced safety, built in dashcam Other stuff like Mirror With Auto Dip, Ambient Interior Lighting auto boot atc come as standard. No comfort pack as I opted against the risk of keyless theft. Insurance is actually way more expensive on those cars and being 27, this was a fair bit more than a 520d already. Car is pretty epic, as a big a jump for me as from F10 to G30. Tech is sensational. You get car play, connected music, office pro and all of that for three for 3 years. Only one pic for now but will grab some later today. Forgot to mention, no free umbrella this time, did get some other freebies mind you.
  10. 2 points
    Jay78uk

    New 520i

    Last Saturday I picked up my new 520i. Really loving it! After much indecision I decided to go for a 520i as I only do 6000 miles a year. I was worried it might be underpowered, but was worrying about nothing- it feels plenty fast enough for me! I have upgraded from a 318d though My car is m sport spec with the light and tech packs. Loving the adaptive lights and head up display. I don't really see the point of gesture control or the display key. I'm also really liking the med blue paint work... I spent ages deciding on the colour, which I think is the brightest option for the 5 series unless you go for white or custom paint. It makes the car look a bit more relaxed and less banker to my eyes, but might just be me. IMG_3939.HEIC IMG_3938.HEIC
  11. 2 points
    535i Andrew

    F11 TPMS

    I thought all LCi got TPMS? If you don't have it a least you don't need to worry about changing your wheel sensors when the batteries run out in them.
  12. 2 points
    After reading @535i Andrew ‘s excellent guides I thought I’d have a wee look and see using a wire claw... Guess what I’ll be doing this holiday Monday?
  13. 2 points
    oldjohnny

    Gearbox Serviced. Scary Discovery.

    Looked it up on youtube first where a video demo made me happy enough to take a punt at it. Great reviews for engine, auto transmission. abs, airbag, air con settings etc, specific to BMW. Tell you better by next weekend. If it's a dud I will give it to the mother in law for Christmas!
  14. 2 points
    duncan-uk

    Is Audi overtaking BMW?

    In all honesty I don’t think the current bmw range does anything for me, really lost its direction Audi’s and Merc’s look better.
  15. 2 points
    Paddy O'Furniture

    Is Audi overtaking BMW?

    Some Audis are nice, but most (not all) Audi drivers are @rseholes.
  16. 2 points
    BFleming

    German speeding ticket

    The UK Government recently made a song & dance on how the DVLA is finally sharing details with our neighbours on offenders - as a lot of people on holidays found out about this summer. Anyhow, feel free to send me a scan of the letter you received, and I'll happily compose you a response in German (I lived there for 6 years). It may be a scam - but I doubt it. So they've sent you a picture; on the letter it'll state the registration number; once we establish it's genuine, just write back to them & point out their mistake. It has to be a front facing picture showing the driver by the way, and ultimately it's up to them to identify the driver, not you. But do not ignore it.
  17. 2 points
    Taffy 1

    Re-manufacture of steering box.

    Gaza, you've come through for me once more. You are a LEGEND!
  18. 2 points
    Battery/Alternator is my guess. Check the regulator on the back of the alternator.
  19. 2 points
    d_a_n1979

    E39 M5 stolen last night

    This has been found and the owner has it back in their grasp now Very little damage reported (both front lower grilles and Motorola phone damaged) and that's about it! A very good and lucky outcome IMO
  20. 2 points
    Inspired by nick mcUK I tried my hand at refurbing an old 350m alloy. I used alu filler to fill the deep gouges. Then I used an old can of grey primer I had laying around. Then I couldnt decide whether to go gun metal grey or carbon black (the only two colours I had to hand, the grey being my log burner touch up) so in true welshman spirit I went half-n-half. Was a bit of fun anyway and I learnt a bit. Pleased with the alu fill. Think I'll try my actual wheels next. The grey is darker than the pic.
  21. 2 points
    Dbcrd

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Fitted new fog lights to finish the job of new inner tail lights and halogen upgrade. Just before the rain came down. Pictures of old and new. Old ones - particularly the left passenger side - rotten and water damaged. newold Looking at this the work I had done years ago on the bumper is starting to spot with stone chips. Doesn't look so bad from a distance. I had a fibreglass repair to a split about 7 years ago and its held up surprisingly. Just doing loads of other work and you can go on an on I suppose and budget isn't endless.. That said found new ones available in Poland - not sure how much.
  22. 2 points
    duncan-uk

    What are you doing now?

    At this moment I’m going right off you two
  23. 2 points
    Keliuss

    iDrive logic - is it just me?

    Might be something to do with it having an air cooled engine. Keliuss
  24. 2 points
    gazza530

    New Car added - V8 540i

    Finishing touches after adding both front and rear Sport bumpers this afternoon. My main mans Rear end. Lol Quite a transformation on this car. Titan bumpers on Arctic silver. Hardly noticeable. New number plate. Final one next to old mans. He is the reason for the BMW obsession.
  25. 2 points
    DarkHorse

    Improving Dangerous Turn Signals

    Everyone knows that indicators were a dangerous optional extra on the 5 series. Best you stop using them ASAP, in case you start to surprise other unsuspecting road users . Not recommended:


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