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  1. 7 points
  2. 6 points
    Not sure if I’ve posted this before but it’s one of my favourites!
  3. 6 points
    Just been out to remove some of the wax residue which remained inbetween the door shuts etc....and give the glass a wipe as my arms had fallen off on Friday..... One thing led to another and ended up giving the engine bay a once over...... Didn’t use anything special - just a degreaser/apc and a quick wipe over.......
  4. 6 points
    At 54,842 miles I discovered a broken front offside coil spring. I had heard a couple of soft clonks when driving it earlier in the day and I suspected something was amiss. The F10 has double wishbone suspension at the front rather than Macpherson struts of the previous generations which means the top mount is rigidly fixed to the strut and therefore correct alignment of the top mount is critical to ensure it goes back in. Tools used Trolley jack Pair of axle stands Ramps for supporting the car on its wheels 13mm socket for existing strut top mount bolts E16 Torx socket for new strut top mount bolts 17mm socket for wheel bolts Wheel alignment pins 18mm socket for lower strut bolt head 21mm socket for lower strut nut 18mm combination spanner for anti roll bar link nut Torx T40 bit for counter holding the front anti roll bar balljoint 18mm go thru socket for strut spindle 6mm Allen key bit for counter holding strut spindle Spring compressors and relevant socket or spanner to drive this. Various sized ratchets and extensions Large adjustable spanner Torque wrench up to 140Nm - wheel bolts EDIT - 05.05.2020 This procedure is for a car with unmodified MSport suspension (option 704) by leaving the upper wishbone attached at both the inner wing bolts and to the steering knuckle/hub. A good comment below states that the method I used, leaving the upper wishbone fully attached to the car, would not work on cars with the following options, Variable Damping Control (option 223) or cars with Adaptive Drive (option 2VA which also incorporates VDC). These have more equipment attached to the strut making them too bulky to remove using the method I adopted. An SE or Luxury model may have a longer strut length which may mean there is in sufficient room to lift the forked bottom end of the strut over the lower wishbone. If you are reading this in America and you are lucky enough to have an xDrive version, it certainly will not work on a car with xDrive, as the forks of the strut, would need to be lifted up and over the driveshaft, which ain't gonna happen using this method! You would need to remove the upper wishbone from the inner wing or split the balljoint between the upper wishbone and steering knuckle/hub to get enough room to get the strut out. Jack up and support the front of the car. This takes the strain off the anti roll bar links so you can separate them from the strut. Counter hold the anti roll bar balljoint shank with a Torx T40 bit while you undo the nut with an 18mm combination spanner. Once the nut is off, push the balljoint shank thru the bracket in the strut. It helps to turn the link to get the balljoint out of the bracket. Next using an 18mm socket on the lower strut bolt and a 21mm socket on the lower strut nut, undo the nut and pull out the bolt to the rear of the car. Using a 13mm socket undo all of the upper strut mount bolts, remove two completely and leave the one nearest the outer wing in place but slackened. Depending on how big you are, get your chest on top of the brake disc and push down on the hub, while pulling the bottom end of the strut towards the hub. Now push down again on the hub with your chest and lift up the bottom of the strut so that it clears the lower wishbone and push the bottom of the strut to the rear of the car. Strut is now free at the bottom and is held by the single top mount bolt. By pushing down on the hub this way, it saves touching any of the three bolts on the upper wishbone. Remove the last strut top mount bolt with your right hand while you support the strut with your left hand and lower it down to the ground carefully. Spring completely toast and has taken out the gaiter on the bump stop. I made some marks on the top mount to aid reassembly. Two of the casting ribs line up directly with the lower wishbone and one lines up with the bracket that the anti roll bar link bolts too. Note there is quite a length of threaded strut spindle protruding above the top mount. As my spring was broken roughly two thirds of the way up and the coils had pushed themselves together, I struggled to get my spring compressors in to get a good grip on the spring. I therefore took the decision to undo the strut spindle nut until there was only a couple of threads beyond the nut. I could now get enough room with a tap from a hammer to get my spring compressors in and get a grip on the spring. Counter hold the strut spindle with a 6mm Allen key and undo the spindle nut with an 18mm go thru socket. Clean up the strut, top mount, and the upper and lower spring seats. The upper spring seat has markings to line it up on the top mount. and I made a mark to line up the lower spring seat to the strut. The lower mark is less critical as its the alignment of the upper spring seat and therefore the top mount holes which need to line up with those in the inner wing which are slotted as the strut is to be rotated clockwise when its fully seated. And the lower end needs to sit aside the lower wishbone. Little in the way of error at this end. Mounting the strut in a bench l lined up the spring compressors There needs to be an almighty compression put on this spring to shorten it to get the strut reassembled. Once I ran out of strength I mounted it in a bigger vice I turned each spring compressor two full revolutions before removing it from the vice and rotating it to the next spring compressor and so on and so on until it was short enough to fit the strut. My right bicep was on fire doing this! I would check how much I still needed to compress it by regularly placing it back over the strut. Once its short enough, place the top mount, upper spring pad and the new bump stop over the spindle and tighten up a new strut spindle top. Again you will need to counter hold the spindle. Torque spindle nut to 34Nm. Carefully unwind your spring compressors ensuring the marks on the top mount line up correctly with the position of the strut. I put two turns on each compressor and worked around in a clockwise direction making sure the top mount stays correctly aligned to the strut. Took ages, but worth it. Must get better compressors! Looking good! Thank goodness that's the difficult bit done! Take back to the car. The rest is a reversal of removal. Get your chest pressing down on the hub again while you lift the strut up and into position so the forked lower end straddles the lower wishbone. Try and line up the hole as best you can, and get the top mount bolts installed to take the weight of the strut. I had to use a large adjustable spanner to help align the lower strut holes up. A small tap with a hammer on the bolt head, which is inserted from the rear so that the nut is on the front. Tighten the nut 21mm socket, while counter holding the bolt with an 18mm spanner. Do not tighten fully as the car needs to be on its wheels and the suspension settled before the final tightening which is 90Nm plus 180 deg. Torque the top mount bolts which are new and now a torx head, E16 size to 28Nm. Re fit the anti roll bar link into the strut bracket and use a new nut. Again you will need to counter hold the balljoint with a Torx T40 bit. The torque setting for this nut is 45Nm plus 45deg. My torque wrench immediately clicked at 45Nm. I'll leave it at that. Refit road wheel, looks so much better than it did last week! and lower car on the the ground. Insert "the wife" into the driving seat because she is clean and you are manky and get her to carry out a few maneuvers to settle the suspension. Drive car up ramps so that you can get to the that lower strut bolt to torque to 90Nm plus 180deg. Ahem, torque wrench clicked straight off at 90Nm. Oops! I put some marks on the nut with a pencil and yellow marking crayon on the tip of the hex that is pointing downwards, I'll tighten it and just watch for that part of the hex moving around. All I could muster was another 1/4 turn before I figured I might break something on the car, my socket set or me! I had made sure the bolt head hadn't turned. It's tight enough for me and I can live with it. No idea what it is at as I had already over tightened it by going beyond the 90Nm with just the ratchet from my socket set. I clearly don't know my own strength! Back on its own four wheels again, which I will need to check the pressures on before I drive it as I forgot to do that last weekend when I put the summer wheels back on. Would I do it again, well I said I'll change the NSR as its the only original spring on the car and ideally should be done in a pair. However I should get a proper set of spring compressors, the half moon type I think. I was fairly confident I didn't need to take the upper wishbone off the car at the inner bolts, loads of videos on youtube of lowering kits being fitted show the upper wishbone being removed from the inner wing. BMW say to split the balljoint between the upper wishbone and the steering knuckle to make more room, but I really didn't fancy trying to split that balljoint if there was a work around. Takes a bit of effort to push the hub down but it wasn't too bad and certainly reduces the amount of other components that need to be disturbed and more nuts and bolts that should be replaced. A good day's spannering.
  5. 4 points
    Flandy

    540i touring. "The Improvening!"

    So I've owned this car for a couple of years, I bought it to replace my E39 530d touring as it's getting a bit tired and it's value is such that it's not worth spending money on beyond maintenance. I fancied an older and more simple BMW of similar size with superior performance, but also a touring. E34 540i touring was what I went looking for, I was really after a manual, but only found one, and it was not in particularly great condition. I therefore figured converting an automatic with better bodywork would be a better option. I picked up this Ascot green example up with relatively high miles at 196k, but as i was replacing the transmission, diff, and propshaft, I figured it didn't really matter. The newly refurbished staggered throwing stars were a definite bonus! Those will most certainly be staying. I spent most of the last 2 years collecting parts, mostly for the 6 speed conversion, but then for everything else. I certainly needn't have bothered about the mileage because there'll be bugger all original mechanicals when I'm done! But first I needed to sort a few more pressing issues, like a sunroof leak. I don't believe in taking things apart and fixing just one thing, when you can sort out several things, so i figured if the headlining was coming out to sort what turned out to be a blocked rear drain, I might as well take the roof rails off and sort out the flaky paint on those, recover the headlining that was old and saggy, replace the gas struts on the rear glass hatch, replace the dried and shrunken sunroof perimeter seal, and for an added bonus while significant portions of the rear interior are apart, replace the usual wiring hack job towbar electrics with a genuine BMW kit I picked up brand new for a song, along with rebinding and tidying up all the electrical wiring. First off, the roof rails Until i took them off, I didn't realise they were fibre reinforced plastic! I had figured they were cast metal, as what was showing under the paint was a dull grey colour. Live and learn huh! Interesting construction technique, the structural portion of each rail is formed of an incredibly tightly folded piece of stainless steel, with four stainless studs that protrude through the car roof. The moulded plastic rails are then held to these with a multitude of short stainless set screws that thread into brass inserts in the plastic. I didn't get pics of stripping the paint off the rails, or them bare plastic, suffice to say it was a messy process and revealed that some of the inserts and surrounding plastic had been pulled out, but were thankfully not missing, so before I painted them, I refixed them, and reinforced all the others with some JB weld (JB weld will feature later, stay tuned!). I gave the rails a sand with some 240 grit until any scrape marks from the stripping were gone, gave them a coat of plastic primer, and then about 3 coats of plasticote satn black. Came out pretty nice, and I only had to fish one little fly out of the finish, I'll call that a win! Once they'd dried fully (I left them for a few days out in the sun) I was time to assemble them, and look into the spacers that go between the studs and the roof. The rust staining around the studs is from the spacers. They allow the rails to be clamped down to the roof without squashing the rubber gasket that fits between the rails and the roof panel. The originals were badly corroded, and the rubber o-rings were pretty shot. New ones were expensive for what they are, and didn't seem from research to come with new o-rings. I decided to make new ones from a couple of stainless washers (M8 and M12) and a silicone rubber washer (16mm ID if memory serves). Thickness came out the same, it fits over the shoulder at the base of the studs nicely. To hold these little assemblies together in alignment, I used a layer of double sided tape. That sorted, I used the double sided tape to hold the gaskets onto the base of the rails and moved onto preparing the roof in readiness. There was a little corrosion around the holes in the roof, so i bare metalled these little areas, treated them with kurust, and epoxy primed them . The epoxy is some stuff I've used on suspension components, and bonds really well to steal, is water proof, and in this application, where it's going to be covered, needs no top coating. I'd already fitted the perimeter seal on the sunroof (pain in the arse job to get the sticky glue remains off, sorry no pics of that job) so it was time to refit the rails. All in all, a very time consuming, but satisfactory job, that I'm glad is done. Next, a seemingly unrelated job!
  6. 4 points
    Rich28

    Bmw e28 progress pics

    Started today with wire brushing the inside of the remaining sill then painting it with some POR 15. Drilled a hole for the sunroof drain pipe to move it from inside the sill, same as the other side Then cut the front sill repair to size and added a drain hole and added the holes ready for plug welding it to inner sill. Rubbed the inside of repair down to bare metal added etch primer galvanise primer paint then under seal, masked off where the spot welds are and an inch around the repair. next was a quick repair in the inner sill at the back. another morning done.
  7. 4 points
    Finally got round to machine polishing the car yesterday..... when I bought the car last year, I found out afterwards that it had holograms on both sides!! These could only be seen in direct sunlight...... It ended up being a long old slog! Wash, clay, wash, polish, and finally wax...... very happy with the results though..... close up..... couple of reflection shots..... pretty happy overall with my first attempt at machine polishing.....luckily it didn’t need a lot of work on it......still took circa 8 hours!!! still feeling the pain today!! Neighbours must have thought I was crazy!!
  8. 4 points
    More importantly @marko530d, what did you get from Greggs, if they were open. I could go a Greggs sausage roll...... I only tackled the bonnet yesterday, before I was summoned to do other things... I had previously clayed it, so just gave it a quick shampoo was to get rid of the dust before the polish. Aim was just to clean and protect rather than do a full on swirl removal. First pass was with Menzerna Intensive polish (PO85RD3.02) using a polishing pad followed by Menzerna final finish(PO85RES) polish using a finishing pad. That's the panel clean, now to protect it, I used my Carlack 68nano systematic care and left it to dry. Lastly I applied Carlack 68 Long life sealant and buffed that off. Shiny and sooooooo smooooooth. I've never quite noticed the shape of the bonnet lines until yesterday, when it was super shiny. There are still a few swirls but there was very little in the way of swirls and marring on the paintwork before I started. I put this down to a couple of factors. I so very rarely wash it with a washmitt (yes I'm ashamed to admit that, but pressures of life including family etc etc.) therefore don't inflict much damage to the paintwork, and when I do wash it, more often it's contactless. Rinse with garden hose, powerwash rinse, snow foam and then powerwash rinse. It's clean enough without going anywhere near a panel with something to marr it. I might sneak out now to do my boot lid.
  9. 4 points
    Duff

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Bought a set of staggered 19" directionals that were in dire need of a refurb with brand new tyres for €150 from a local scrap yard a while back. Refurbished them myself over the last week and fitted them earlier on. Cost about €210 all in. Tyres alone worth that! Need to see about lowering her next.
  10. 4 points
    I found myself with 2 hours to kill this evening so I broke out the tar remover and clay kit and transformed the offside from headlight to taillight. This chat about Detailing inspired me, lol. Wing before, looks clean enough. Wipe with Autoglym tar remover says other wise. Clay bar clean to start with Again this is what I pulled off the panel. Not looking too shabby for 7+ year old paint given that in the 4+ years I've owned it, this is the first time I have taken a clay bar to it, let alone polished it! Need to get it polished now. And in the concern over fixing my spring, I thought I might need some back up bits, anti roll bar links (as the balljoint shank looked rusty and might put up a fight) and a set of bolts to replace the upper wishbone and lower strut bolt incase that needed to come off, arrived today courtesy of Autodoc. Took just over a week, coming from Germany, not bad considering the situation. The bolts in the pack are identical to the ones I bought from BMW. Lemforder must supply BMW not only the suspension components but the nuts and bolts too. Oh well, the links may still be needed if I run into issues doing the NSF spring and I can use some of the bolts too. They would be a good job to do with my dad, when I'm allowed to meet family again....
  11. 4 points
    Had reason to try out my new snow foam today. and Little flying bast.... only washed it on Sunday. 10 year old snow foam lance works well with the new foam. The previous foam was also 10 years old. 5 litres lasts me a while.... After a power wash clean, and Contactless washing! All is well for probably about 20 mins......
  12. 3 points
    Cleaned them front and back then refitted my summer rims along with a good arch clean out. Few more jobs to do but an e39 touring is a good looking thing!
  13. 3 points
    Just did this job on my 2012 F11. Offside rear is now on its third air spring (193K Miles now). I replaced both sides at this time with the Arnott versions. Was quite easy to do but one thing I did was practice the install part a few times before I connected the airline up. People have said it can be a bit tricky but once you have looked at the orientation of the lugs on both the spring and the car, a few trial installs makes it relatively easy. I did also cut the line back by a few mm before the pushing into the brass fitting, I used new Stanley blade to do it and its not too difficult. The tube is very rigid and wont flatten and it does ensure a nice square and flush end. I think it would be good practice to do this as the line is scored by the olive that is used on the BMW fitting and I didn't want to run the risk of a leak.
  14. 3 points
    Did a full detail consisting of snowfoam, tar/fallout remover, wash, clay bar, polish, glaze & wax, took the best part of 10 hours and I'm very pleased with the results
  15. 3 points
    Well the lockdown continues and what else can I do but work on my car?! I was able to do a job that I had been putting off for absolutely ages. Ever since I bought my car I really wanted to fit heated seats. And it would be nice if they were electrically adjustable too. I found it hard to find a set of heated and electric seats, or perhaps I was being impatient! In any case I decided to do things the hard way........ Bought a set of electrically adjustable sport seats, that have memory function last July. They were in good condition and very cheap (always a plus for me!). So what about the heated part? Well around the same time someone was giving away a set of grey heated front seats for free and he lived fairly close to me. The price was good so decided to grab them too! Ok so I now have a set of black sport seats that are electrically adjustable and a set of grey comfort seats that are heated - and when I picked them up I noticed they also had lumbar support All I had to do was join together the best bits of both and I have the seats I actually want! Well I never really had time to do all of this. So the seats sat in my shed/under the stairs for months. I eventually started to tear down the grey comforts before xmas last year. All I needed was the heated pads, and the lumbar support bits. Rest of the seats were binned. Not many pics of the tear down work. Took a few for reference for the lumbar support: Pump sits at the bottom in the middle surrounded by motors for the rest of the seat adjustment: Bag sits at base of the upper seat section: The hardest bit of the strip down was removing the heat pads. They are stitched into the leather. I had to un-stitch the pads from the leather - took me ages! Had to be really careful to ensure I didn't tear the pad and damage the elements. But managed it in the end. So onto the more recent past, time to tear down the sport seats to fit the heated pads and lumbar support. Used this thread as a reference: Easy enough to split: Lower base part stripped down - leather comes off by pulling off the cover from the metal hooks: When the covers are removed I had to cut off the foam lining that is attached to leather: And stick back to the main base using contact adhesive - a tedious task! The heated pad is then attached to the leather cover by cable ties (as an alternative to the metal hog rings - much easier to use): You will note that the comfort seat pads are bigger than the sport seats, mainly due to the sport seats having the thigh support. I had to trim the heated pad carefully (you can see this in the pic above) and tucked it under the bottom of the base rather than mess around with the thigh support section. Also the pad was wider than the sport seat cover so had to trim some excess off around the sides - same on the upper seat pads too. Onto the lumbar support. With the seats apart it was easy to fit the lumbar pad and valves in the upper section. Seats all back together and now its time to sort the wiring out. First had to dig out the wiring for the lumbar support. Was able to follow the wires I needed. Some wires needed to be soldered together and then I taped it all up to make a loom: The wiring is actually quite simple, just needs a positive and negative. Spliced it into one of the plugs for the motors in the base: Then the heated pads. That was even easier as the seats already had the wires and connectors for the heated pads. One issue was the connectors on my pads were off a pre-facelift car, the plugs were a slightly different shape. Was easy to sort though, just trimmed off the excess bit and the plugs clipped in fine: And now the seats are ready to go in the car - finally! But first I need to sort out the wiring. Since my car had manual non-heated seats, I had no existing wiring in the car at all. The wiring for the electrical adjustment is easy. Just need to wire in a positive and negative into the connectors. There are earth points under the carpet where all the seats are. A fuse board sits under the drivers seat which supplies the power source. With the seats and other interior trim removed it is easy to access: Then onto the wiring for the heated seats. This is much more difficult! BMW did sell a retrofit wiring loom. But this is NLA. You can make one up, but this was beyond my skill set! Found a seller from Portugal on eBay who sell the loom, they make it themselves: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E39-SEAT-HEATING-WIRING-LOOM-seat-heating-retrofit-cable-NEW-52110002132-/303344962814?hash=item46a0c4ccfe%3Ag%3A2tgAAOSwQRla14zI&nma=true&si=ycM6Z7kZTOrPevJOsM%2FnV%2FIr03c%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Cost me more for the loom than I paid for the seats! But still worth it IMO. The loom was good quality, you can tell it was made from original connectors in some places, soldered and spliced into new wires and all taped up properly with cloth tape so looks OEM. If anything it was too long in most places. And annoyingly one wire (the positive feed for the fusebox) was too short - but this may be due to how I routed the wires. Part of the loom goes into the connector for the switch centre: The rest goes to the connector box under the glovebox, into the fusebox in the glovebox and then to the seat connectors and a single wire to the fusebox under the drivers seat. All in all a lot of wires so took my time making sure I did it right. The thread linked above is a godsend. The official BMW guide misses out one half of the loom! So all wired up and and seats fitted in place and connected. The moment of truth............ I fully expected something not to work. I hadn't tested any of the motors in any of the seats, the heated pads had essentially been torn out of another set of old seats and were also untested and then fitted to another set of seats. Same with the lumbar support too. And that's before you get to the wiring - which always confuses me - and having to rely on my shonky soldering skills! Despite all that I am happy to report everything worked I couldn't quite believe it to be honest! Here is the switch centre - spot the button for the next retrofit on my list....... Gave the seats a clean and condition today. They came up looking great. Bolsters and bases are in good condition: Little video of the electric functions: https://i.imgur.com/OmyfRLD.mp4 And one of the lumbar support: https://i.imgur.com/dwhbwwc.mp4 Very happy with how they have turned out. I still need to wire up the memory function (have the drivers door loom and switch to do this) - a job for another day! Oh and the lumbar support for the passenger side stopped working not long after being fitted. It is still inflated, will take a look at it soon - just need to find the time............
  16. 3 points
    Thought I’d tidy up the F10 today, as I’ve done all the other jobs! A good thorough wash, and decontaminated it. Amazing the crap that was on a car that looked clean enough! Finished off with a good coat of Gold Class. I’ve had it almost three years now, and I still like it. Looks ok for a car almost 10 years old I think!
  17. 3 points
    Pics of towbar (and car) 129K miles, one previous owner and I have written to him via the log book to see if he has any receipts or can give me any more info. Really pleased thus far with the car, really smooth and powerful (feels better than my 330D), the auto takes a bit getting used to when I have only ever had manual cars but it's really smooth. I am wondering if in my failed attempt to reprogram the spare key to work with the central locking that is what messed up the radio pre sets as it is fine today. Thanks all for help and advice.
  18. 3 points
    Continued: Carrying the spare in the M5 Bought a tyre sock thing for it made by Heyner of Germany, though I'm pretty sure it's made in China. New for £8 on eBay (Above) Good fit in the M5's boot with quite a lot more space than than the bigger alternatives. (Above) You'll also need to carry this lot to effect a successful wheel change. Don't overlook the locking wheel bolts. They require a bigger hex pattern socket than the standard wheel bolt. The wheel brace for the locking wheel nut is an old one I had lying around from a Subaru I used to own. The jack is from my E39 530d and has the correct pattern shoe on it to fit BMW jacking points. (Above) The M5's tool kit. Already has the pre-prepared slot for the wheel brace so has a more OE look. However, I might buy one of those 1/2" drive telescopic wheel braces and carry a couple of the correct size sockets. I think it would make a road-side wheel change a bit easier - a much longer lever etc. - than the BMW/Subaru mix I have at present. This hybrid temporary spare arrangement I've put together is not for everyone. Some might have issues with the insurance angle, others may prefer a bigger spare. My requirement was to create as much boot space as possible and have a functional spare to get me out of trouble and keep me mobile in isolated locations a long way from home.
  19. 3 points
    Personally I would use wet and dry sheets rather than Scotch Pads. Flat the factory primer with 1200 wet ‘n dry, 3 or 4 light coats of colour, ensuring you leave a good couple of hours between coats and flat them with 2000 grit or finer between coats then 3 coats of lacquer, again a couple of hours drying and light sanding between coats (except the last one!) Do this off the car and in a warm, well ventilated area.
  20. 3 points
  21. 3 points
    Great write up. One pointer for anyone with electronic dampers - you can't remove the strut without detaching the top wishbone from the hub assembly. There physically isn't enough room to manoeuvre the strut out, unlike the non-EDC cars. I spent a long time trying, before finally undoing the clamping bolt & using a bearing puller to separate the 2 parts. I took mine apart to fit Eibach springs, not because they had snapped!
  22. 3 points
    max535

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Finally got around to fitting the rear bench seat and plugged in the fuse... Heated seats are alive!!!
  23. 3 points
    Higher torque band giving more vibration I would assume andrew. And my creamy 6 cylinder is soooooo smooth.
  24. 3 points
    Just realised what the hole in back of fuel cap is for .
  25. 3 points
    I went down the modification route today too. I installed a new anti theft device. and successfully managed to get the front anti roll bar link to strut nut undone without breaking my already twisted Torx T40 bit or having to resort to more drastic measures. Means I don't actually need the arb link that I've already ordered from Autodoc. Better to be prepared though. Cleaned up the old nut but I already actually had an M10 locking nut with washer to replace it with. Not the same but it will do until my Autodoc order drops. I was worried about that putting up a fight but it was soaked previously in WD40 and again today before I tackled it and a few more squirts as I progressed the nut along the thread. The other nuts and bolts got another spray of WD40 too. Ready for more spring work tomorrow.


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