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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/20/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Quite a big picture dump and unfortunately some images have been lost over the years. How it all started in April of 2007. Bog standard 540 auto with rubbish paint. Swapped in a black interior and redid the headliner in suede: Swapped on some M-Pars and lowered it on H&Rs. Found an original Schnitzer front bumper and side skirts at a BMW dealer down here. Managed to find the rear bumper from a gent staying in Okinawa at the time. Had it all painted and fitted Dyed and swapped in some sport seats Decided the auto gearbox had to go. Replaced it with a 5 speed manual and a 3.64LSD. M-Tech 2 goodness and some birds eye maple wood trim Images galore… Tried some different shoes 6 speeds is better than 5. Time for a respray. Tried another set of shoes In March 2017, I was asked to display my car at the launch of the G30 5 series in George. Unfortunately on the way back from the coast, the car was moved onto a different car carrier and the paint was damaged. Ended up taking it to a panel beater recommended by a friend. This is where the rubbish started. After 7 months and not much work being done, said panel beater was evicted from his premises. Hadn't bothered to pay rent etc. Was lucky enough that nothing had been sold off mine, put it back together and drove it home. Lost a fair chunk of change and got back a half finished car. After two months of sitting, was referred to another panel beater: Took about 5 months to complete. Added some Schnitzer mirrors as well.
  2. 6 points
    @Dirtydiesel - Thank you sir. @FLX - I am extremely chuffed. At this stage its easy to forget it started as a shell. There hasn't been too many issues other than the tree nailing you in the head with those round balls of pain. The rainy season starts now though, so it will make things a little interesting. Onto another update. The Touring chronicles - Part...Complicated friggen sunroof First off, find all the broken pieces... Have a spare sunroof cassette and strip it down Cables and stuff "Repaired" actuator thingy These hold up and move the rear panel All assembled. Sunroof "bench testing" Removing the current cassette And the reason it didn't want to work Swapped in the other cassette And added some panels. Viola. When plugging the motors up, they didn't want to sync (They weren't connected to the cassette at this stage). When pushing the button up (Which would presumably sync the motors) the front motor would just spin for around 20 seconds and stop. Pressing the button in anything other direction, nothing would happen. The rear motor wouldn't do anything either, except a bunch of clicking relay noises from the module. Being a bit hesitant to connect the motors to the cassette itself for fear of breaking stuff, we read about the motors needing some resistance i.e grabbing onto a cable, in order to sync. We put some vice grips on the gear so it would jam against the motor housing to create said resistance when moving and the motors synced. We were then able to put the motors into their "rest" positions and bolt them onto the cassette. More celebratory pictures. I can now retire the darn tarp. Thankfully it doesn't leak...so far.
  3. 5 points

    F11 air suspension

    Hi Everyone, I have had bit of a journey on the F11 rear air-springs, I thought I would share what I have learnt on the way in case it can be of use to others. What happened? The rear was dropping onto it's bump stops on both sides around 1 hour after parking up, initially it was mostly on one side only then it became both. I saw the YouTube video's and read formus like this one and decided having done multiple oil changes (someone said - anyone who can do an oil change can also change an air-spring) so thought I would have a go myself and duly purchased two Arnott Air-Springs. Please note no issues whatsoever with the compressor, no blown fuses or relays either - in other words I had caught it early enough before it becomes a bigger issue. What went wrong? I fitted the new air-springs without any real dramas (or so I thought), however the Arnott's do not have quite the same top as the OEM springs, add to which when they were last replaced by BMW main delaer they also cut a slit through the rubber collar where the air line comes through, in short there was nothing to stop air-line coming out of place and getting trapped between the top of the spring and the body of the car - unfortunatley this happened on the driver side (the side where I had to twist it towards the open slot on the top of the spring to get it latched in place!) So within 1 hour of fitting the new air-springs guess what.......it was back down on it's bump stops on the drivers side... at the time I had no idea what had caused this, I had correctly placed the air-line but it must have come out of place whilst trying to position it to latch into it's top socket. You will see futher up this thread that I thought it was the solenoid valve which regulates which side air is sent to. Did you fix it or what? Yes thankfully, despite unecassarily replacing the Wabco Solenoid (£100) once I rulled this out I re-traced my steps and found the crimped air-line with a nice split in it right at the top of the air-spring!! I then purchased the following to remedy this:, 1 meter of 4mm air-line 2 x VOSS 203M8 connectors (for the Arnott fitting) 1 x push-fit 4mm pneumatic coupling (Max 18 Bar pressure) Links to these products: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-Flexible-Nylon-Pneumatic-Air-Line-Tubing-Compressed-Airline-Plastic-Pipe/130985446247?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=430192228257&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Air-Suspension-Hose-Pipe-Line-Union-4-mm-37221092403/173922585889?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Push-Fit-Connectors-Straight-Coupling-Push-Fit-Fleetfit-4mm-16mm-Hose/133320242489?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=432725623916&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 After fitting these the problem was solved...almost, I had been a little tentative in tightening up the VOSS connector, metal into a plastic thread is always a risky business! This was a "low-point" as I thinought I had everything covered, anyhow re-traced my steps and removed the air-spring (again!) and blew a little air in it whilst off the car then with soapy water checked if the valve or spring was leaking by putting it under pressure (leaning on it) , bubbles were spotted by the connector valve and it just needed another 1/4 turn and then the job was (finally) done. **Hoarrah!** Key take outs: Be very careful you don't pinch the air-line between then air-spring and the car spring mounting point - quite easily done (inc yours truly) by the twisting action to locate the spring. If one air-spring has a leak the other side will also drop a litte - I found that when re-tightening the VOSS nut on the air-spring it self inflated (fuse to the compressor was removed) through air pressure passing from the other spring - I guess this is self-levelling air-suspension?? The Wabco Solenoid rarley goes wrong, if it does fail most likley you will have problems inflating the both air-springs Unless you have the right software & control unit the only way to re-inflate the air-springs (assuming they are both new/empty) is to start the car again - this can be tricky as the air-spring does not properly attached with the bottom mounting bracket until it has air pressure in it - definatley a two person job! Don't give up! If you feel like you are getting nowhere, take a step back and re-trace your steps, I agree with someone's else's comment that 90% of the air-suspension issues relate to the air-spring itself, only if it fails to inflate should you look elsewhere such as the compressor and/or solenoid. Apologies for the long thread but hope this is of use to others who are considering a DIY replacement !
  4. 4 points
    I do the same Caesar. mine just passed again with no advisories, 3rd year in a row. not bad for 174k. Put my private plate on today, a nice ageless "535" plate. means I can now not own any car other than 535's
  5. 4 points

    Supercharged E60 M5

    What an amazing sounding machine
  6. 4 points
    au contraire, sir, whilst i agree its far from free, i'd load up on it. Ive taken the kids in before now for the cakes. hehe
  7. 4 points

    What am I missing

    The main physical aspect of Eco pro mode is in encouraging one to moderate one's driving style and thus leading one to the benefits of the improved economy enjoyed therein. For me, it just makes the car feel like a big, sluggish, unwieldy lump and is almost impossible to get on with unless your main reason for driving involves slowing down other road users and not particularly caring whether you get where you're going or not.
  8. 4 points
    Heard from my Insurance company regarding the mishap this July, the other drivers insurance company has admitted liability so I should get my excess back and my no claims bonus has not been affected.
  9. 3 points

    e34 Oxford Green 525i Touring SE - OEM+

    Well - my first 5 Series and new to the forum - already proven tremendously useful! I'd been hankering over a 80s/90s touring of some description and have been perusing eBay, carandclassic etc. on and off for a year or so. Back in July M160 PMO popped up near Bristol on eBay but as a proposition was far from what I'm normally looking for in a car. No service history, last MOT expired 2 years ago and by the looks of previous MOTs some potentially expensive work was likely due. I exchanged messages with the seller asking a few questions but the bidding quickly went above what I was willing to pay for the vehicle given the (lack of) history. It ended and I thought nothing of it but a couple days later I got a message from the seller explaining the high bidder hadn't made contact and asking whether I was still interested. A few messages later we agreed a price and the following weekend I found myself making my way to Chippenham to look at the car. The story goes - the car had a few owners early in its life but found its way into an old boy's car collection and over time had fallen out of use. His entire collection of cars was put up for sale and the chap I bought it from bought it with the intention of sprucing it up and back on the road but one too many projects meant this had fallen on the back burner. He seemed an honest chap and was transparent about the work he thought the car needed. So off I went home with this in tow (apologies for the low res pics, these are from the original ad):
  10. 3 points

    G20 vs. G30

    Hi all,Having recently collected my new G20 320i M-sport plus / pro (whatever BMW are calling it this week), I thought I'd share my experience / opinion having spent the best part of 3 years in a G30 520d SE. In some ways not the fairest of comparisons, but I think interesting nonetheless, and hopefully helpful to anyone considering a 5 or a 3 as a new car. First impressions:A massive step up from the previous 3! One of the reasons I went for a 5 when I did, is because it was right at the end of the life of the F30, so didn't want to be stuck with the old model for 3 years - I didn't necessarily want or need a 5. Just so happened the deal on the company car scheme was really good on the 5, which also helped sway my decision. Although the 5 was definitely more comfortable and had some higher quality materials in the cabin, the gap between the latest 3 isn't that big at all in terms of quality. The look of the interior I think is also more driver focused than the 5, and I really love the design of the dash - definitely feels more up to date than the 5 did. It's also a much nicer looking car to my eyes, with better proportions - even comparing M-sport with M-sport rather than SE. Driving:Now this is where comparing an SE with M-sport probably isn't the fairest, but the 3 feels so much more planted and nimble. The 5 could actually feel really big at times, especially on some smaller B-roads. It really inspires you to throw it into a corner, where as the 5 was definitely more comfortable at a cruise. Where the 3 is let down a bit though is the ride - even with the adaptive dampers in comfort, it's nowhere near as pliant as the 5...but again you're talking an SE on 17" wheels vs. an M-sport on 19's. It's not terrible however, and definitely fine for what you gain in drivability. Refinement:The 3 has really surprised me at just how quiet it is - it's by no means as silent in the cabin than the 5 was, but it's much closer than I would have thought. The only thing I seem to notice in the 3 is a bit of tire roar at speed, but again probably due to larger wheels and run-flat tyres. Performance:This is my first venture back into petrol, and I'm actually over the moon with how the 320i performs. It's so smooth, and the acceleration nice and progressive all the way up to the redline. I had concerns it wouldn't be enough, but I'd say it's easily as quick I'm every day driving than the 520d, and so much smoother / quieter in terms of engine noise. It's by no means lightning fast, but easily quick enough for what I need. Economy:Obviously never going to get near the 520d, which saw into the low 60's on a steady cruise. But even on a short motorway stint, I was easily into the mid-40's which I think is very good for a petrol engine with a decent amount of performance. When I get to my commute I'll put it to the real test, but I don't think high 40's to 50 mpg is out of the question. Now given the 320d in the spec I've got was nearly £50 a month more, I don't think I'd ever offset that doing 12-13k miles a year. Space:This isn't really relevant for me, as I never needed the 5's space, but I can easily get all my golf gear in the boot, and there seems like there's plenty of room for 4 adults, so I'm very impressed again given the previous 3 was quite tight in the back. General observations:- Harman Kardon doesn't sound quite as good in the 3, but also need to give it a chance to get run in properly and take some time to get the EQ set up. - Seats are a little on the firm side, but again probably need bedding in, and I can get into a really comfortable driving position. Glad I ordered with lumbar support, which is a disgrace it isn't standard really.- ID7, while it may probably have more functions and technically be better than ID6 in every way, it's nowhere near as intuitive or easy to use as the tile system on ID6. Sorry BMW, but this is a step back.- Headlights, soooo much better than the standard fit LED's on the 5, which were woeful. - Driving assistant professional is amazing. I always regretted not spec'ing this on the 5, but had to compromise as it was a company car. I can't recommend this highly enough if your commute involves a lot of motorway or A-road cruising. Generally I'm over the moon with the car, and it's a massive step forward from the previous 3 series. Yes it's lacking in a few areas compared to the 5, but that's to be expected given it's in the segment below. For anyone having the same comparison, the gap isn't as big as you'd think vs. the 5. Thoroughly enjoyed my time in the G30 - great forum this too, so thanks for all the help and advice to everyone.
  11. 3 points

    New owner here!

    Few extra pics of the car and another question. Where’s a good place (preferably to phone) for parts like the lower door trims and the jacking pads?
  12. 3 points

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    All mine, I started with this one, a 1995 six speed manual with only 20k on a factory replacement engine; it was minty mcminty and had been used in two photo-shoots just before I bought it. I needed it for the dogs... Truth be told I would still have that car today and probably no Alpina's if a sleepy taxi-driver hadn't gently rolled into it one New Years Eve... It may not look terminal but the front wheel is about an inch and a half back from where it should be, the bottom of the a-pillar is creased sufficiently to not let the door open and there was a crease in the roof just above the edge of the windscreen. The whole car had been shunted back about 10 or 12 feet. So I needed another dog-wagen and the cheapest M5 Touring in Europe popped up for sale... It was far from minty mcminty but it was blackity-black-black with black leather interior, black-headlining, hella black headlights and even Touring smoked rear lights. Alas, some years parked outside on the Cornish Atlantic coast had riddled the body with rot so when the 3.8 engine started knocking the whole thing was doomed - it was sold for parts and broken to its bits. It was a hoot while I had it but it showed me the chalk and cheese difference between the 3.8 and 4.0 engines; the ///M engine had seemingly no power until at least 3000rpm and then spooled up to be completely addictive from about 4700rpm to the redline - the V8 had masses of easy and immediate urge but ran out of energy about 5500rpm onwards -just when the ///M lump was in full playtime mode. I still needed an estate so I bought an E39 Touring but whilst owning the 540i/6 and M5 Touring cars I had learnt about the E34 Alpina Tourings. There were no B10-BiTurbo Tourings or B10 3.5 Tourings ever made in lhd or rhd, and out of all the B10 3.0 AllRad's, The B10 4.0 and B10 4.6, 93 cars in total, just one right hand drive car was ever made... It had never been pictured, spotted on posted about ever in the UK except for an obscure magazine article when it was delivered in 1995, but I made myself a promise that if it ever popped up for sale I would try and buy it. Alpina B10 4.6 Touring, number 16 of 19 made. 4.6 litre V8 engine, 340bhp and 354lb/ft - just 20 bhp and 30lb/ft short of the Alpina B10 BiTurbo. I bought it from the first owner who told me the tale of how it ended up choosing an obscure but very expensive Alpina Touring. He had a friend who had an E34 B10 3.5 from Sytner and he lied the way it drove but needed an estate car; he had been considering a 525iX Touring but felt it lacked sufficient 'go' so an Alpina brochure was found and he shown the details of the Alpina B10 3.0 AllRad Touring. It seemed to tick all the boxes - 4wd, Touring, more power, but... he turned over the page and saw the picture and details of the B10 4.6 Touring. He promptly forgot all about the 4wd stuff and sorted out his specification and then placed his order. It was due to be delivered in full stripes and badges from the factory but sometime between placing the order and the car being finished his friend in the be-striped B10 3.5 got car-jacked so he changed the order to forget the stripes just put the badges in the glove box. He owned and ran the car just as an anonymous silver E34 Touring for 17 years but had started to neglect it a little so after it being spotted by an Alpina enthusiast was asked if he would consider selling it. He was pretty horrified by the first few enquiries from people who wanted to rip the engine out and drop it into an E30 or kit-car so when I called and said I simply wanted to restore it and run it as a family car he was happy to talk. I bought it unseen and took a one-way ticket to Dover and had a very nice lunch with him and his wife before I became its second owner and I drove it home. I've had it eight years now and whilst there have been situations where we were nearly forced to sell it I'm very please I still have it.
  13. 3 points
    The "horror stories" would be around programming of the car with ESYS where you need a stable power supply due to the length of time the car would be connected to the laptop - I personally would never undertake a DIY programming session on these cars either. ISTA, however, as used by we DIYers is benign and there is little to no chance of damaging anything. A cable costs less than £20 and the software should never be paid for (you'd just be paying a pirater for something they acquired freely). Each to their own though and your direction will give the desired outcome too.
  14. 3 points

    New M3 and M4

    Gone down hill ever since... can't really compare to todays toy looking designs:
  15. 3 points
    Get rid of the d.p.f & the cat & the egr valve & the flaps = one happy engine More power & torque, better mpg's & a longer lasting engine. If you care about the environment buy a E.V
  16. 3 points
    So i've had a mega good Sunday on the turd, a heavy gearbox themed post again i've changed the oil seals on the spare box, so now ready to refit the output flange If you're selector knuckle isn't worn out like this one you can give it a new life by buying just the sponge pad from BMW. The selector shafts often have oil leaks and this causes the foam to die and alot of use/age also. All fitted, ready for some oil A quick inspection shows no rust and oily inside. Going by my original box this is a good sign!! Had to change the sump plug as it had been animaled with mole grips Research online led me to this castrol oil being what Alpina reckon to use, took about 1.5 litres to fill it when it was level on the work top Now i thought i'd get geeky again with this side shot so you can see side on how big the V12 prop guibo is, so much so that the lower linkage part is bent to accommodate it! The whole linkage seems unique to the bi turbo. This shifter arm i'm told is a short shift from an E60 545i. It came with the car, seems ok not too short This is the top shifting arm, next to a 5 speed M5 one, so the Getrag 290 box must be longer than the M5s Getrag 280. the part number on it says regular BMW M30 e34 or e32 but the Alpina parts lists it with alpina part no. My guess is its cut and welded like in the picture New bolts, turns out i was 4 short. So Bi turbo uses alot more bolts to hold this to the block! High torques innit Went to fit the clutch fork and this fucking pin was missing. Que red mist and then i remembered...... I have a spare E30 325i sport gearbox and the part number is the same so i went robbing, as i really wanted to refit this gearbox. Its already donated a sump plug also We are ready to roll and for the fun part A cup of a tea a jack and a brick and we are ready to fit the beast back up, sounds so easy when you type it out Here is the fuck pig back on, fair bit of sweating by now Shifter linkage ready to go on linkage and prop guibo back on, ready for prop and cross member The cross member is unique again to the car, along with the propshaft or the front half in terms of the length and the flange is bigger for the V12 guibo All on and a good time to stop So not actually that much left to do for MOT time for this car. I need new windscreen wipers, some number plates, bleed the fluids all up, change the engine oil, refit the drive shafts, exhaust back on, clutch slave cylinder and refit the remainng turbo intercooler pipe work. Sounds alot but won't take long compared to rest so far. Very close now, its a shame working gets in the way!
  17. 3 points
    Just want to say thanks to everyone as I installed a Nextbase 422GW with rear camera today! A couple of pointers, I used a nut and bolt as per attached pic and I used fuse 20, it says unused on the circuit diagram but it's deffo switched power as it comes on with ignition and goes off within 20 seconds of switching the ignition off. The cable from the fuse tap should be on the left hand side, I tested with a multimeter just to be sure. Thank you!
  18. 2 points
    Took my F11 to the local council fleet depot for its MoT. Passed without an issue. Thorough test but completely objective as they don't carry out repairs.
  19. 2 points
    @d_a_n1979 - Thank you sir. I do agree, white shows off the lines quite nicely. @greenelekta - Thank you sir. I hope so too. @FLX - Those "yes men" are becoming more abundant as well unfortunately. It helps learning how to do things yourself...painting a whole car though... Re buying the E60...my bad @Coupe king - Thank you sir. I must say, I'm not a huge fan of the blue interiors. Suppose I might have liked it more if it was in good condition...mine was very far from that unfortunately. Re the dash swap - Its not that difficult. Not too many screws or bolts either. Wiring isn't too bad, as we leave it attached to the dash. I was very fortunate to be able to piece together the kit when I did, as finding said pieces for decent prices now, is almost impossible.
  20. 2 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Only once per problem though...
  21. 2 points
    Just go and see the car. The more history it has, the better, but it's not only thing to look at. Overall condition is important and can be a good proof of how good/bad care has been taken over car through years. My car had new front dampers fitted not long before I bought it. Garage receipt, what can be wrong. Everything!!! Old bump stops reused, which were falling apart, didn't even hold dust caps in place. And best part - donkey at some Wembley located garage has been holding strut piston at the bottom with pliers while tightening top nut with impact gun. In short words those dampers were damaged and needed replacing. So by this lesson I learned, that service history is important, but it can be misleading. Garages are interested in profit, a lot of times they skip on quality, and not many customers are car enthusiasts, which will find out that something has been done wrong.
  22. 2 points

    Sterling Grey E39 530 Sport Touring

    Purchased from member sutts last week (also acquired from the forum by him), my 2nd E39 Touring although this one is in far better condition! Lots of paperwork and history came with it and it was obviously very well cared for in the past. Notable extras include auto lights, auto wipers, folding mirrors and auto a/c.
  23. 2 points

    AlexGSi2000 - e39 M5

    As my 2020 season is now drawing to a close, the car will soon be parked up for the winter months. The summers seem short and the winters very long with these cars. Unfortunately we missed out on the European road trip I had planned earlier on in the year, on a positive note, the car will be in a much better position by the time I go (hopefully next year depending on whats allowed due to the pandemic). The car has mainly been on local trips over the past couple of months on sunny weekends - loved every minute. A few weeks ago, Russ Fellows informed me that he had completed the fabrication of the headers and exhaust - I was over like a shot to collect it! The headers are nothing short of a work of art - I did contemplate fitting the system early 2021 and leaving the headers in the living room, however, I decided to get them on the car that weekend - its a shame you cant see much of the headers from the engine bay. Fitment went well, they are a very tight fit in the bay - not a difficult job by any means, I needed to drop the sub-frame to get proper access to the bolts, once the headers were on, the rest of the system flew together. The quality of the exhaust is very good, all the mount locations for the center pipework and rear exhaust hangars line up perfectly - a doddle to fit and much lighter than the standard system. The exhaust now has a deeper tone and a lot of rasp - similar to the rasp from the e46 M3, which is very nice. It is a tad loud and does smell quite abit due to the decat, so will kindly ask Russ to fabricate a set of pipes with 200-cell cats. I used the ECUWorx tool to turn off the EML for the cat efficiency - it really is a neat tool. I saw a recent post from a member on the M5 board that has also recently fitted a set of these headers and made a very impressive dyno figure after having the car remapped at DMS Automotive. Originally I wasn't planning on having the car mapped, but after seeing the figures, it would be silly not to take full advantage of the new headers. I will aim to book in once the car is back on the road next year. To get an idea of how the car was performing, I took the car to a local dyno - it came out at 389bhp at the flywheel (no wheel figure from this dyno for some reason), which I'm happy with as I think its a good ballpark figure. So - a final few photos for 2020;
  24. 2 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Replaced ACS type 3 replicas (8.5j x 18) with staggered style 66 and the car is nimbler and the steering feels better. I like the look of the types 3 and 18s on the E39 but the 66s handle better.
  25. 2 points

    My Dilemma

    Regardless of what anyone says it's always going to be this ^^