Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/26/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Finally got round to fixing the cracked insulation on the wires in the grommet to the boot lid. I knew they were cracked and had temporarily wrapped the bare wires in loom tape to prevent any shorts, but my reversing camera stopped working so I thought it was time to tackle the job properly. 5 wires in the main loom were visibly cracked and the cause of the reversing camera failure was that 4 of the 5 wires, excluding the coax for the video feed, were broken. This really is a crap design. The bend radius when the boot is shut is far too tight, failure is inevitable with the type of wire they have used. The OEM reversing camera wires are very thin, there would be relatively little time between the insulation cracking and copper core breaking. I decided that I might as well do all the wires and replace the section inside the grommet with silicone coated wire which is much more flexible and resistant to fatigue. I also thought it best to replace the boot grommet as I certainly don;t plan on taking all the wires out again!! The inside of the old grommet was coated in old loom tape glue, horrible stuff that seems to be almost impossible to remove. After stripping the wire from the boot lid and removing the grommet from the body, I cut all the wires at about the point they enter the grommet. As I didn't have 20 different coloured wires (why the hell do you need 20 wires going into the boot, including the 5 for the camera and 2 for the coax for the video feed?) only 4 colours, I labelled all the wires as I extended them with the silicone wire and finally soldered them to the original loom together with heat shrink tubing over the joint. Before threading the loom back into the boot I wired it all up to make sure it was working. Everything worked perfectly so I threaded it back into the boot. I had anticipated that fitting the grommet back into the body as it's double skinned would be quite hard, but actually it was pretty easy, inserting it up from the inside. The bit that took the time was preparing, soldering and insulating 40 joints in the wires, especially the 20 joints that had to be made in situ in the boot. As soldering wires together inside the confines of the boot is not easy I wrapped each joint in a small piece of loom tape just in case there was a small solder spike that could penetrate the heat shrink. The wires were then all bundled together with more loom tape and the boot trim re-assembled to finish the job, about 6 hours work in total. I do not want to have to do that again, and I've seen more than enough sticky black loom tape glue for the foreseeable future thanks.
  2. 3 points
    So getting stuck in now and into the fun stuff, kind of fun. The offending item, clean isn't it?...…………..The getrag 290 gearbox. As fitted only to Bi turbos, no other BMW or alpina has ever used this box. Alpina got Getrag to make them a run of these in this fitment for the 507 cars built so a dip in the ocean for Getrags capabilities. Theres not much on the internet about these mythical beasts and especially in this fitment. Searches just throw up it was also used on some early 90s jags - so many manual jags about aswell! The Aston Martin DB7 used it also. Some GM trucks in the states in 4WD fitment and the corvette Stingray I think. From what I know have read/heard the boxes are very strong and an uprated unit for heavy use or torque outputs. They don't really break on Bi turbos and are well up to the job. My old Bi turbo never had any issues when I had it. The bellhousing is thicker casting compared to say a Getrag 280 that the 5 speed E34 M5 uses in 3.6 and 3.8. I also believe they are beefed up internally. All the gear linkage is unique to Alpina as these boxes use the rear flange and prop guibo from V12 BMWs of the era. Which is massive! I was told there was a brand new clutch fitted. So I was keen to see it with my own eyes and was very happy to see it fitted. That a £1000 part saved Heres the colour of the brand new oil I drained out of the box after about a mile of driving...………..same colour as my pooper valve at this point. Seems like its rusty inside?! but how I took the box to a local transmission place to get it looked at 3D transmissions in Reading. Wasn't too impressed with the service, dropped it off discussed on the phone in person what I've written here. "OK we can strip inspect and see if we can any parts that need replacing. We only charge if we can fix it. If not we strip/put back together and no charge" Fine I thought. Drop box off have same chat as original phone call. Week goes by not heard anything so ring for a check. Not touched it waiting for permission to strip it, I gave that when I dropped it off. the receptionist guy hadn't even heard of a getrag 290 before..... During this call I spoke to the workshop foreman. He explained some prices aswell and what he thought, great some progress. Next day I get a call from the receptionist asking for my permission to strip the box. Yes for the 3rd fucking time and then he quotes me some higher prices than the day before from the workshop guy. He speaks to the workshop guy and agrees hes quoted me too high. Another week goes by and I get a call last thing on a Friday saying from the receptionist numpty saying my gearbox is scrap and they can't get any parts for it can I collect? won't give me any detail on to what they have found to get to this conclusion. I said yes can come now, he says they need a bit of time to put the box back together. Ok i'll come back Monday Tuesday? They say yes. Tuesday afternoon comes no call, so I ring and gently getting onto the war path footing. They've not put it back together as they can't get parts for it. I just said i'm coming now to get whats left of it don't touch it i'm getting the arse. When I arrive i'm able to speak to guy who stripped it. The internals are in a big blue box hopefully all the parts! and the casing is split in two. Box is fine but all the gears are rusty, which is the reason for the noise on idle, and the selecting gears not too smoothly issues sometimes. Its true there are no new spare parts available even if I had the cash. Great. He also said when he stripped it he found water inside which came running out! And here it is. I've since found another gearbox guy up the north Neil at All gears who I should of contacted first but i'd heard he was should during this covid crisis ( turns out he wasn't!) He seems to specialise in fixing manual boxes like mine. Hes restored some faith after a phone call and hes rebuilt 4-5 of these boxes for bi turbos in the past. He seems a goldmine of info and confirmed he had spares for these from other rebuilds and that some of the parts/gears from the jag/aston martin 290 boxes fit. I had a plan of buying a jag box and swapping the internals over as they are the same layout as bi turbos being engine in the front, then gearbox and RWD. I couldnt' find out if the ratios were the same so seemed a tricky risk and its £1000 if you can find a jag box 2nd hand. Anyhow i'm going to get my box of 290 bits shipped up to All gears and await his view. He seemed half confident from what I told him that it might be able to be salvaged but seeing in person is always whats needed. Fingers crossed I've since found out the box was steam cleaned when out of the crashed car, hence why its so clean looking and was then fitted back into the touring but no refilled with oil and then sat for 8 years while the project wasn't finished. Clearly water penetrated the seals and my suspicion by the time I've got to it or when it was running on Barrys ramp at BMR it was seized solid from rust. Theres lots more to come to catch up to where i'm at present
  3. 2 points
    To keep everyone updated with Michelin Customer Support, I receive an email back from them stating they could not say what the problem was with my tyres looking at photos that I sent to them, even though they asked for specific photos of the Dot data on the tyre and the month and year code, from working out the code the tyres were manufactured 8 weeks before being fitted. I was then instructed to go to Formula One Autocentre where the tyres were purchased from to get them fill in a complaint form and send it of to them, as its now been two weeks and I have heard nothing back from Michelin, so so much for their statement of once they receive the complaint form back from Formula One which incidently was sent electronically, they stated I should get an instant decision if the complaint was accepted. Well two weeks on and heard nothing I have been on to Formula one they say they have also been on to them several times but don't get any answer either. So this coming week I intend to start putting pressure on Michelin Customer Support to stand by their warranty, to date this is not what I expect from a premium brand tyre manufacturer, they need to do the right thing and sort this problem out.
  4. 2 points

    New E39 owner

    Hi, Recently became a E39 owner after many years of wanting one. Managed to find a 2002 520i Avus Sport Edition (manual) with only 60k on the clock and happily no rust. So far: oil and filter changed coolant changed gear box filter changed and new oil new diff oil new PAS fluid new petrol filter new cabin filters brake fluid and front brakes by previous owner last year so brake fluid changed then DISA repair (x8r kit for M54 2.2 litre) it was rattling new rocker cover gasket new sway bar new condensation vapour barrier rear door machine polished and protected. I love it. lots of plans but it’s staying stock. here are some pictures. Forums like this are an amazing resource of knowledge and contacts so I am sure I will be a frequent visitor from now on.
  5. 2 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Retrofitted heated sports seats a few months back. While doing research, I found out that if you have heated or active seats, you'll only need two wires for a power rear sunshade (and the switch pack obviously). Bought a parcel shelf with the power rear sunshade but it had no fabric. Recovered the shelf in black suede, and retrofitted it to the car. Now my switch pack is looking more populated compared to when I bought the car (ASC only vs Heated front seats, ASC, and now Rear Sunshade). Also, I bought one of those ModLight modules so that the angel eyes illuminate and the mirrors unfold/fold when I unlock/lock the car via the key fob, giving it that modern feeling. I've also activated flashing high beams when I press the lock button twice for no reason what so ever. I feel like activating the cornering lights but I'm on the fence at the moment. Tomorrow, I will tackle replacing my boot lid and fitting a reverse camera that's built into the handle. Therefore, I still keep the boot handle function.
  6. 2 points

    Deplorable Nissens UK after sales

    Have you tried the reseller in France? Unfortunately, It's not uncommon that the manufacturer will refer you to where you bought the item as your contract is with them.
  7. 2 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Washed; bloody Shite Kites using our driveway as target practise Autoglym Polar Blast snow foamed, rinsed; alloys washed and tyres scrubbed; AG Polar Wash washed, rinsed; AG Polar Seal applied, rinsed; towel dried and blacks & tyres treated with Chemical Guys tyre/trim gel Too bloody hot today for doing this, but it was a necessity.... Was knackered after that; so I trained on the drive too; perfect weather for deadlifting stupid amounts of weight
  8. 1 point
    A helicoil or thread insert is the correct & proper way to fix this, they are way stronger than tapped threads into alloy anyway. We do this at work all the time with new components if they are to be continually removed. The thread / inlet bolt in question looks to be M6, but could be M8. Can you not measure it, or screw on a nut to confirm? You don't need to use vernier calipers a rule will do you'll soon tell if there M6 or M8 obviously 6mm dia or 8mm dia.
  9. 1 point
    looks to be the actuator arm on the EGR valve.
  10. 1 point

    Cranskshaft position sensor woes

    Hi all, First thread on here, and one which I hope helps others. 2006 E60 523i here. I've been through the ringer recently with random gearbox behaviour: violent gear changes, sometimes with a "transmission fault" message, sometimes with the engine cutting out. Long cranks at startup was another random aspect of this. Luckily I have INPA and having read the codes after many such incidents I was reasonably confident that I had a crankshaft position sensor problem. The recurring codes were 51a7 and 2a94. There are cheap aftermarket parts available but with so many unfortunate stories out there I decided to purchase an OEM part from the stealership (EUR 160). Left the car with my local mechanic to replace. The garage called to tell me it wasn't a CPS problem at all, but rather the connector into the CPS. It was perished and broken. Back to the stealership, and they told me that the cable was part of a larger engine wiring harness, that it was all one sealed unit....and the cost for a replacement? EUR 700+!!! Now, bearing in mind that the car is probably only worth a couple of grand, I was fearing for the future of my car! Thankfully, this wonderful page came to the rescue: https://zerolagperformance.com/bmw-n52-54-crank-sensor-harness-repair/ Long story short, the connector can be rebuilt. BMW parts below: 1 X Socket housing (12527507526) 3 X Grommets (61138366245) 3 X Terminal pins (12527545852) Total cost from stealership: EUR 6.70. One final note - There are lots of DIYs and videos out there of folks replacing the CPS from above. This generally involves removing the intake manifold for access - major PITA!! My mechanic was able to do the whole job from below. See this vid for reference:
  11. 1 point

    Roof Box for G30 (530e)

    Good to see how it looks, it may be something I will need to do at some point. Have a VW T5 Caravelle that I can throw kids and kit into, but at 17 years old do I risk a trip to France next year in it when I know my 530e would demolish the trip so easily? I know there is always the argument of getting a vehicle to meet your needs, but when it comes to company car tax and reduced commuting costs it actually becomes cheaper to run 2 vehicles than one.
  12. 1 point
    You'll find your trip meter and mpg readings will reset to zero as well so keep a note of them if you don't want to lose them. When removing the negative cable be careful not to pull on or otherwise put any force on the IBS unit. Apparently it's easy to damage. See notes on these pages; https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f11-530d-tou_201406/repair-manuals/61-general-vehicle-electrical-system/61-20-battery/1LyvW9MF https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f11-530d-tou_201406/repair-manuals/61-general-vehicle-electrical-system/61-20-battery/1LqtiBBl https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f11-530d-tou_201406/repair-manuals/61-general-vehicle-electrical-system/61-20-battery/1L0XOA03
  13. 1 point

    Power steering fluid and reservoir

    Those clips can be reused if you gently pry them open and compress with pliers. Though I would replace them with regular jubilee clips.
  14. 1 point
    today i finished the centre console around the gearbox to get rid of the scratched silver covers. happy with the result. whilst wiring up my wireless charger i also added two usb ports to the glove box for charging phones.
  15. 1 point

    Deplorable Nissens UK after sales

    Might be a little late now @boiliebasher but I would not send MisterAuto pics of the new rad fitted, even though you are 100% entitled to a return. It just might complicate things, seeing as you'll likely end up communicating with someone that knows nothing about cars and they just seem to follow guidelines on the returns policy. A side by side pic of the correct and incorrect parts would be ideal. Keliuss
  16. 1 point

    What is a fair price for an E34 M5?

    A decent 3.8 6sp is worth £25k upwards. As Sharkfan says, condition and history are everything.
  17. 1 point

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    It does a good job IMO. Like a snow foam version of their aqua wax to be fair. It's rained hard today and the water beads superbly Re the polar blast, use the recommended amount and mix it with warm water. That gets the best results for me. However, the snow foam canon can make a huge difference too, I use the Autobrite one
  18. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    F10 / F11 Scissor Jack

    I'll go to non rfts on the next tyre swap but I doubt I'll carry anything more than a as I've always got a set of winter or summer wheels stored at home. Figured if I can get home via the AA, I can swap wheels myself before seeking out my trusted tyre fitter who will treat my powder coated rims with respect.
  19. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    2015 F10 aircon not cold

    Thanks for the reminder, mine was regassed when it had a new condenser just over 3 years ago. Got it done as a last kick of the ball when still under AUC warranty. My a/c is on all the time for two reasons, to keep the system lubricated and if/when it fails again, I'll notice it.
  20. 1 point

    Urgent sound proofing

    It is glued to the front of the heater box, although annoyingly it is not shown on the diagram:- https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DC52-EUR-07-1986-E28-BMW-M535i&diagId=51_1798 The metal baulkhead is sandwiched between part's 1 and 2, the heater box is attached and the errant piece you have is glued top the front of the heater box and then all the center console is fitted
  21. 1 point

    How much when new?????

    No problem; a 520i SE Touring in March 1995 was listed at £24,950. It's from a BMW UK pricelist.
  22. 1 point

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Powerfold/chromatic wing mirrors dismantled and the gears all well lubricated with lithium grease Chromatic wing mirror glass replaced with eBay specials; they're still heated, but no longer chromatic. Both glasses had blown and leaked, so had turned bronze in colour etc The new glass just clicks into place rather than there being a locating tab; but they both look well and fit well
  23. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Space Saver Spare Wheel Query

    There is no info on Amazon to double check. For 18" the tyre in Amazon link it would need to be 135/80. https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=135&aspect=90&diameter=17&wheelwidth=4&offset=4&width2=135&aspect2=80&wheel_size=18&wheel_width=4&offset2=4 Assuming the add is correct the rim should also have the correct PCD (5x120) and offset of 4mm. Amazon are generally reliable enough and if its not correct they have a robust returns policy. As long as you reset the TPMS/TPWS and don't drive it like you stole it, it won't matter where you fit it on your car (front or rear) regardless if you have the winter tyres on or summer tyres on. BMW F10/11 space saver info which is a 135/90 on a 17" rim http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FR72-EUR-01-2013-F10-BMW-535i&diagId=36_1274 The bigger rim of the Amazon wheel would be more suitable provided it had a correct tyre size fitted to it so as not to upset the rolling radius of the wheel.
  24. 1 point
    Auto Hold uses the DSC to brake all 4 wheels while the engine is running (or stop start activated) and once you brake with the foot pedal and bring the car to a stop - Auto Hold activated. If the engine is switched off by pressing the start/stop button, and Auto Hold was engaged, the handbrake EMF actuator is activated and the DSC releases the hydraulic pressure on the brakes. The handbrake EMF actuator is not used for Auto Hold and my assumption is that you need to release the brakes immediately when you pull away from Auto Hold and the EMF actuator would take too long.
  25. 1 point

    Combox F07

    I defiantly had 1 wire spare, I think it was the positive for the 2nd module, having 2 makes sense as you are moving from two to one module so I would assume these 2 wires are negative and positive to the 2nd module which are no longer required. I have a pin out somewhere which I used, I'll pull it out and share it with you, that way you should know what missing cables relate to.