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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/26/2019 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    V8Warrior

    Upsetting the purists...

    The M5 has been under an almost 4 month transformation. The purists are already screaming and shouting. But 1590KG with a full tank of fuel isn't to be sniffed at!
  2. 5 points
    New boots fitted Before: After: It's still riding a touch high with the new suspension but I'm sure it'll settle soon enough. Rides brilliantly though; but not driven it yet on the n18s, so that'll make a difference I'm sure
  3. 5 points
    Oh hell... Who am I kidding Before: After: It's still riding a touch high with the new suspension but I'm sure it'll settle soon enough. Rides brilliantly though; but not driven it yet on the n18s, so that'll make a difference I'm sure
  4. 5 points
  5. 4 points
    R44M BM

    Carbon Black ///M5

    Some progress on the M5: Complete restoration of the underside of the car up to the front subframe including rust removal , jacking points reconstructed, applying protection on all cavities , applying rust inhibitor , primer, sealant and stone chip paint, replacing the brake lines with fabricated parts (oem items are prone to failure) Replace the diff seal Fit the following items (which I supplied) brand new oem shocks, thermostat, brake discs/pads/shield x4 and braided lines., fuel breather Brake calipers x4 overhauled and painted black (with new seals)
  6. 4 points
  7. 4 points
    Bolf

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Passed Mot after a spot of recommissioning
  8. 4 points
    edd_jedi

    <£50 DAB/USB/AUX Solution

    As you may have seen I've been pondering for ages how to expand the ICE in my E61. I've been considering an Android unit, but the high price and reports of poor audio quality put me off. I had also been looking in to retrofitting OEM DAB and a MULF2-Hi to give me a USB input for my CCC, but both would again require significant investment but more importantly lots of coding and wiring which looked very complicated. Then by chance I stumbled across this thing on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076P86LXH/ It's an aftermarket DAB and Bluetooth adapter which I'm sure you are all aware of, but unlike most others on the market like the Pure Highway or Parrot etc it also has a line in (AUX) and SD card slot. It plugs in to my existing AUX connection, has a DAB aerial which attaches to the roof under the headlining with a magnet, and sticks to the windscreen or dash with a suction cup (although the attachment is magnetic so you can use any other magnetic holder eg a vent one if you don't want it on the windscreen.) With a bit of effort all of the wires have been hidden and it doesn't look a mess (this was really important to me, I hate dashboards with wires everywhere.) I've been using it for a week now and am really impressed with it. It boots up in a couple of seconds when the car turns on, almost no delay. The DAB reception is great, it picked up 70 stations and so far has worked in car parks, tunnels etc where FM radio had previously not worked. It has a built-in volume control which if turned up to max matches the volume of the CD/Radio etc, the E60s super-quiet AUX input is a gripe many people complain about. The sound quality is excellent, and the LCD display shows the station/song or song in SD mode. And with just a 16GB SD card I have 100 albums on it which is 94 more than I had with the CD changer! I'll pick up a 64GB card when I get bored of these albums. Because it has a line in, I can still use my phone for music if needed too which again I didn't want to lose. The only things I can pick holes in are the fact there are (obviously) no steering wheel/iDrive controls other than volume, but as the unit is so close to me and I can permanently leave the iDrive in AUX I haven't found it at all annoying. And also because the buttons on it are lit up blue it doesn't match the rest of the car's interior lighting, it does however have an orange text mode so the LCD screen at least can be matched. But for £50 these really are minor gripes, and overall I would highly recommend it. I know pictures speak a thousand words so I'll post a few up at the weekend.
  9. 4 points
    gazzago

    F11 powder coated wheels

    Had my alloys powder coated. From the usual silver to anthracite. Yes 18’s or 19’s look great but the roads are terrible in my area and this is a workhorse so I want the reasonable comfort of 17’s. Plus I don’t want to spend all that dosh to upgrade just yet Finish is fantastic on them. Anyway here’s a few pics.
  10. 4 points
    Completed all the work last Saturday and took a few photos in progress. We decided to start off with the most difficult thing and replace the front crankshaft seal, so the first thing to come out was the fan cowling and the fan itself. Keep in the mind, the nut on the viscous coupling is a reverse one, so to loosen it, you have to turn it clock-wise. Looking at everything from underneath, you can see it's all covered in oil at the top of the oil sump. The next thing to come off is the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer. However, before you can get it out, you'll have to remove the water pump pulley, as otherwise there's not enough clearance for the crank pulley to come out. Once you've removed that, you'll see this: Needless to say, the crankshaft bolt is PROPER tight. The correct way of removing this bolt is to lock the engine and stop it from turning using a flywheel locking pin that you have to insert through the TDC alignment access hole, which is located underneath the starter motor (M50/M52/S50/S52 engines). There's a rubber plug (part number: 11111714541) that you pull out and then insert the locking pin through, obviously making sure that it goes through the flywheel. You'll have to turn the engine slowly using the crankshaft bolt until you manage to put the pin through. I believe the crankshaft bolt is 22mm, you will need a long bar + strong biceps. With the bolt out, carefully remove the hub and you'll see the reason why we are here: We were just about to start removing the seal to replace it, when I showed the new BMW seal to my mechanic and he wasn't too happy about it. For whatever reason, the replacement genuine BMW crankshaft seal didn't have the support spring on the inside edge of it, which I was told is very important and helps to lengthen the life of the seal and prevent early leaks. Looks like it's another cost-saving strategy from BMW on the manufacturing side, so you can visit the dealers for servicing a bit more often. Instead of using the genuine BMW part, we decided to order the exact same seal made by Corteco from EuroCarParts, while in the meantime we carried on with the rest of the work. I'll show you the differences in BMW vs Corteco seals a bit later below. The lambda sensor was next to come out. Its location is a bit awkward, but luckily it came out pretty easy. Here you can see old vs new: The one fitted was made by Bosch, not sure if original from factory, but it has definitely been there for a while. Old one removed, new one in place. Next thing we drained the oil out. Last time I changed it was back in December 2017, but I've only driven around 5600 miles since then, so by modern standards, it's an "early" oil change. Going back on top, changed all 6 coils. They were all made by BMW, but turns out they weren't the originals from factory, because all of them had "98" stamped on them. Looks like the originals lasted only 6 years (my E34 is a 09.1992 build), which is a bit strange, considering the current coils have been on the car since then and I wouldn't say there's a problem with them - I'm only changing them to "freshen things up". Then replaced the throttle position sensor, which is held by 2 Phillips screws and there's a plug right underneath it. Not sure if there was anything wrong with my mine, but the purpose of all this work was to improve the throttle response, so I couldn't take any chances. Got the AFM out and sprayed the AFM cleaner all over the sensor, then let it dry for a while. Again, hard to tell if mine is 100% or not, but I thought there's no harm in cleaning it vs having to buy a replacement for no apparent reason. And finally replaced the crankshaft position sensor, which was original BMW. The bolt that holds it in place was easy to come out, but we had to knock out the sensor from the bottom, completely damaging it, as otherwise it was stuck and wouldn't budge. By the time we've done all this work, the crankshaft seal has arrived from ECP and I've taken a few photos to show you the difference. From the outside, the genuine BMW seal (left) and Corteco (right) are pretty much identical, except the colour. However, from the inside you can see that there's no support spring present on the BMW seal (left), but it's there on the Corteco seal (right). If you find yourself in the same situation, then make sure to get the Corteco front crankshaft seal (part number: 12012045B), instead of genuine BMW, because not only it matches the spec of the original seal fitted from factory, but it's also cheaper than the current version sold by BMW today. Now having the right part for the job, we've carried on and removed the existing seal. It has hardened over the years and there was no way that it would come out in one piece, but it was going to go straight in the bin anyway, so it didn't matter. Clearly, it hasn't been touched since the car left the factory, and you can also see the BMW logo. Notice the presence of the support spring on the original seal, so not sure why BMW decided to get rid of it on the current part. Luckily, Corteco has it, hence the reason why we went with them. Make sure to clean up the area where the new seal goes and ideally apply a bit of RTV around the outside edge of the new seal - some say it's not necessary, but I doubt there's any harm if you do it. The replacement seal finally in place, all nice and clean. Before putting back the crankshaft bolt, make sure to apply a bit of Locktite on the thread to ensure a secure fit. The assembly is the reverse of the removal, plus we've replaced the crankshaft bolt, its washer and the 6 crank pulley bolts, although it's totally optional - nothing wrong with re-using the originals. So was all this work worth the final result? Well, I can't say it made a HUGE difference, because the car drove fine prior to doing the work anyway, but I noticed a slightly better response from lower revs and also it seems to build ups revs a bit smoother now. This is the thing with preventative maintenance - there's nothing obviously wrong that needs fixing, but these things need to be done for everything to be 100% and to prevent any sudden problems in the future. Future plans? I've got my "Pedant-mode" ON at the moment, as I don't like the rattling noise coming from the wheel centre caps of my Throwing Stars. With the windows up, you can't hear anything, but otherwise they rattle when you go over small potholes/speed bumps and it's not good enough for me....An easy fix would be a bit of RTV on the inside of the caps, but I'm not after easy fixes, so I'm going to check and see how much I can get replacement centre caps from BMW for and if it's reasonable, then I'll get a set of 4. If they are priced silly, then it's not the end of the world. As I previously mentioned, a set of 4 new tyres are also in the works, can't decide between the makes, but will let you know what I went for soon enough. Apart from that, I'm not too sure, but I think my alternator is getting a bit noisy lately, although sometimes I feel like that I need to slow down a bit with my "preventative maintenance" and don't fix things that work perfectly fine... Anyway, whatever happens you'll be first to find out and I'll make sure to keep you updated. Thanks for following.
  11. 4 points
    Matthew Ashton

    52.4 mpg

    Isn’t all motorway driving boring if you intend maintaining your license. It’s in what vehicle you spend those boring hours that makes the difference.
  12. 4 points
    Grizzle_M5

    F10 M5

    Had a photo shoot of my M5 recently, pretty pleased with the pics, i have since had a new Turner motorsport exhaust.
  13. 3 points
    Hi Folks, So after running company cars for the last 16 years and company car tax getting steeper I decided to opt out. My last couple of company cars being an M140i and a 330d saloon. Having been a BMW fan since a kid I decided what I wanted had be practical, a car not an suv and have some grunt which is where I ended up with a E61 530d touring, it also needed to be able to tow my track car as I intend to do my trailer licence so I can tow it to track days rather than drive it and not have to worry about it breaking. I have a bit of time to do my licence as the car is currently under going a big overhaul. Here’s a photo of the barge as it’s been affectionately called
  14. 3 points
    535i Andrew

    Food porn

    When you have been out on the lash in Glasgow and you are on the last train home, it is the law to buy a chippie from the Blue Lagoon!
  15. 3 points
    d_a_n1979

    Your forum needs you!

    Thanks pal; it's only just happened this morning Feel honoured
  16. 3 points
    Just fitted these x5 19" x 9" fronts and 19" x 10" rears to my e60 530d. Going to drop it next month by between 35mm and 40mm all round. The wheels were a mess when I bought them but had them powder coated in gloss black.
  17. 3 points
    sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    It’s been a reasonably productive weekend. Stopped by Gareth’s to fit some Eibach ARBs I brought from Duncan a few months back. The handling is superb now, even on winter tyres. Also fitted the adapters I’d made to engage the last two bolts of the gearbox mount with the chassis. They’re two 7075 spacers that bolt into the holes for the auto box mount, and are helicoiled to take the last bolt of the manual mount. I made some 6 mm washers to give more engagement where I had to cut out material for the offset bolts. It’s very solid now. To top it all off, it sailed through the MOT. Going for the airbag recall tomorrow – I’ll let BMW clean it. Until next time, cheers
  18. 3 points
    chicaneuk

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Pleased with how she looks now on early grilles and pre-facelift lights!
  19. 3 points
    Bought her at £120k miles 3 years ago. Thought I'd treat her to some pampering last year.. Bonnet, boot lid, and both bumpers resprayed + general polish up. Alloys refurbed New backbox New tyres all around New discs and pads with tracking and alignment complete Meticulously cleaned the engine bay myself (pictures coming soon) New glow plugs + controller All filters replaced Ready for another 150k miles? No she's not for sale!
  20. 3 points
    sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Not exactly as planned this time, never is, too much real work stopping play. I only had a couple of days so decided to fix the interior and rebuild the drive shaft (the black stuff is just tannic acid). Managed to get the shaft swapped without dropping the diff or the exhaust, just by jacking up the hub and swearing a bit. I know wood is not to everyone’s taste, but I much prefer it to the silver plastic. Unfortunately, the CD cover is not quite the same shade as the rest of the trim and there are a few cracks, so on the lookout for another. I guess there’ll be a few sets before I am really happy. Also fitted a BMW profession CD player and MID to replace the old tape deck, so much nicer. Wiring in the MID loom was pretty easy (there are a couple of good write-ups on here), and I replaced the CD changer with a Bluetooth receiver. Bavsound speakers are next on the list. Will be tidying up the gearbox mount for the MOT next week. CP3 after that!
  21. 3 points
    Ram Rod

    Goodbye and thank you

    First run over to the UK today. Just 37kms on the clock on departure. Filled up after getting off the train and average mpg over 160 kms was 38.75 mpg. So how does it compare to a 5 series and my humble 518d in particular? On smooth tarmac at 130 kph the Talisman is quieter than the Beemer, mainly due to less wind noise around the wing mirrors. My BMW has standard suspension, but the Talisman in Comfort mode is more compliant. The four wheel steering on the Talisman is a revelation. On a section of tight bends going cross country, the Talisman feels remarkably agile and changes direction with alacrity. The 245/45 section tyres obviously help compared to the 225/55 tyres on the BMW. The auto box is a 6 speed Getrag unit. The changes are super smooth, but not so quick off the mark as the 5 where the first three ratios are very low. Service intervals are 30,000 kms. First service is just an oil change at €130. BMW was €460. Second service with new pollen, air and diesel filters is €462. My BMW was €780. The main reason I bought the Talisman Initiale Paris model in particular was because of its seats. They are simply as good as Recaros but with more comfort. Heated, cooled and with a massage function. Although supportive, the sports seats in the Beemer were a disappointment being firm and having no lumber adjustment. I did wish I had taken the standard seats. The Talisman was the result of a €400m investment in the Douai plant near Lille. Daimler were involved with quality aspects of the cars construction and finish. But it isn't a BMW. Are Renaults robots and welding as good as BMW? The Talisman's paintwork is first rate. As customers we must ask ourselves where is the value in the extra cost of a 5 series? Look at the EGR problems I have had and some owners complaining of corrosion on doors. I have enjoyed the three years with my 518. But I was put off buying it when the lease ends because of the exorbitant servicing costs, plus the potential for huge bills in the future. BMW France wanted €27,860 for their car, three years old with 82,000 kms and no guarantee. For a relatively small extra outlay I have a new car with a three year 150,000kms warranty.
  22. 3 points
    d_a_n1979

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Front suspension overhaul (new shocks, springs, top mounts and fitting kit) + Meyle HD front drop links Mtec 82mm stud conversion kit fitted with 5mm hubcentric shims all round Rear shock top mounts fitted Rear shocks ordered too & will be fitted next week See projects for pictures
  23. 3 points
    New suspension up front today (Sachs dampers & OEM BMW Mtec springs with OEM BMW rubber seats and top-mount cups & Sachs bump-stop kit), new Meyle top mounts, new Meyle HD drop links also Rear Febi top mounts fitted, but replacement dampers needed, so Sachs parts ordered this afternoon too Also fitted the Mteconline 82mm stud conversion kit and have fitted 5mm hubcentric shims for now until I get my replacement alloys on The car currently is sitting higher at the front; but the dampers were shot, it'll settle soon enough. Be good to get the rear end refreshed too
  24. 3 points
    Cadwell Parker

    52.4 mpg

    I've no idea what your driving style is like but good anticipation makes a big difference. Keep the car rolling, avoid coming to a stop if you can. If you're going to need to slow down lift off the gas early enough to allow you to minimise any braking. Otherwise you're just converting fuel into heat in your brakes rather than forward motion. My 530 is showing me just over 43mpg on the journey computer after doing circa 3500 miles of mixed driving since buying it. I reset the onboard computer each time I fill up. I've seen that up to 47.5mpg on a steady run when not in any hurry, also down to 35mpg after hoofing along for 40 miles on a mountain road with some interesting corners. It would drop even more if I carried that on for longer. I expect it'd be over 50mpg on a long enough motorway run at sensible speeds. Yes. I enjoy driving this car whatever I'm doing with it. Hoofing it around is great fun, sedate trundling around is also very enjoyable in a different way. These cars are for enjoying rather than worrying about how much fuel you're using but still I find it interesting to keep an eye on what's happening. Apart from anything else if the car's not happy about something often you'll get a dip in the mpg figure to alert you so it's worth being aware of it.
  25. 3 points
    Ram Rod

    Goodbye and thank you

    yHi Guys. Well I picked up the Talisman today, yet I will be keeping and driving the BMW for another six weeks. I have been forensically comparing the cars and have driven the Renault quite a lot. Honestly, the Renault runs the Beemer very close indeed. The EDC gearbox is very smooth, the engine silent, road noise slightly worse on rough surfaces, boot is slightly bigger and ride quality is better on broken surfaces. Here are a few pics.


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