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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/17/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    d_a_n1979

    My 'new to me' 2011 F01 730D

    So just before I sold my Jap import E39 touring to Matt; I'd been looking at a number of F01 730Ds (didn't want to entertain the V8 750i with its well known engine issues) and a number of F11 530D tourings I went to see a local touring and a local F01 730D and for me, the overall build quality of the 730D was so much better; that swung the decision for me easy enough. So it was then to lookout for the right spec of F01 that I wanted I watched quite a few; a lot very overpriced, more so for their mileage and the ones that I was really interested in were all way down South and the trek was putting me off slightly... Until this F01 730 SE Luxury was listed on AT in Wolverhampton...! An hour on the the train away So a few emails sent to the seller who owned it; emails replied to and a few phone calls later, a 1st class ticked to Wolverhampton was booked... The E39 sold on Monday to Matt and going to see the F01 yesterday (Thursday 16th Sept) was full steam ahead... A nice train ride down, 1st class brekkie and coffee galore Met by the seller; viewed the car, lovely drive, lovely spec and interior, but bodywork issues and odd tyres on the front let it down. Knew of the bodywork issues, but not detailed as I'd hoped they could have been. The tyres were an oversight and new ones have already been ordered (non-RFTs too) Overall the car had the spec, history and interior I wanted; so I told the seller there was one price I'd pay and that was it; if it's a no-go then I'll enjoy the hour and 11mins train back home and carry on looking The seller accused me of being a 'brutal barterer' I'm a Lancashire Lad; want my money in me back pocket So price agreed; paperwork done there and then all online and I set off home (to sit on the M6 car park; great fun) So cars been thoroughly cleaned inside this morning; leather all cleaned, just waiting for a leather conditioner to arrive via Amazon I've been to my pals bodyshop to get it booked in to have both front & rear bumpers resprayed; both wing mirror caps resprayed and a few dents sorted and paintwork sorted, if necessary. It goes in on 18th October for a few weeks. The main issues are stone-chips that have lead to lacquer peel and parking dings etc. I'm not after concourse perfection; just after the car looking as best as it can for an 11 year old executive saloon I've got Kumho front tyres on their way to sit on the OEM 20" alloys; rears are Uniroyal RainSport 3s which will get replaced at some point; but they've decent tread left so will leave them for now. Have already looked to sort a set of 18" alloys to put winter tyres on, so they'll get swapped over sometime mid-late October and the 20s will either be sold on for different OEM 20" alloys, or I'll get them fully refurbed with all new tyres ready for Spring 2022 Overall it's a lovely car; it was a lovely, smooth and relaxed drive home and the car pulls like a train! It's done nearly 83k miles Spec (off memory): Full pro sat nav and widescreen DAB, full Bluetooth connectivity and Pro DSP stereo Full extended Nappa oyster leather Full memory comfort seats with lumbar support; driver & passenger Full heated front & rear seats Rear climate control Xenons with high beam assist 20" Style 253 alloys And more... Pictures from the seller: I'm not going to upload any further pics until it's had the bodywork done
  2. 3 points
    When I was under the bonnet doing my yearly yellow grommet clean out/inspection I noticed that the edges of the belt were starting to fray slightly. The bearings in the tensioner and idler pulley may also start to grumble as well as a loss of tension in the tensioner leading to reduced performance of the system. It is 8 years old so the rubber will be starting to age before wearing out as its only got 56,100 on the clock. The FEAD or front end auxiliary drive is known as the complete set of pulleys, idlers and tensioners that are driven by the belt to power supplementary ancillaries with power from the crank. My F10 does not have any form of over running clutch on the alternator system (OAP/OAD) so there is no need to change the alternator pulley. The parts to change on the N55 without dynamic drive (which adds another idler pulley and needs a longer belt) include the belt, tensioner and idler. Tools needed 15mm socket for strut brace 12mm socket for cross brace 10mm socket for air con lines bracket bolt E12 Torx Socket Torx T30 bit/screwdriver Torx T40 bit – and a spanner that fits this bit! Torx T50 bit Torx T60 bit 3/8” ratchet Breaker bar 4.5mm dia drill bit, 5mm is too big! Small flat screwdriver Torque wrench – 30Nm for strut brace and 60Nm for Idler This job is all about access. To get my arms and tools into the space at the front of the block, you need to remove the electric fan, before you can remove the fan, you need to remove the upper cross brace and the strut braces. Trust me it needs to come out, I just ended up getting sore knuckles and scratched to bits attempting it without*. To remove the cross brace complete with the strut braces, slacken the stretch bolts at the strut towers. 15mm socket Prise up the two expanding rivets on each headlight flap surround. 2 each side… …and lift this up slightly to allow access to slacken the 12mm bolts that connect the upper cross member bolts to the inner wing. 2 each side Flip up the head light access flap to access the T30 bolts and slacken then that connect the upper cross brace to the bonnet release mechanism. 2 each side Slacken the two T30 bolts at the front of the upper cross member to the trim panel behind the bumper. These go back to 19Nm on tightening. Now the pain the sit down bits bolt. There is a horizontal T40 bolt that secures the upper cross member to the diagonal braces. There is no room for a ratchet, bit and bit holder so I stuck my T40 10mm hex bit in the ring end of a ratchet spanner to loosen and then undo it. Once all the bolts were initially loosened, I used my impact driver to quickly remove all the bolts, it certainly speeds things up and reduces fatigue, get one would be my advice! Bin the two bolts from the strut brace to strut tower as these are stretch bolts so cannot be re-used. Once all the bolts are out, move the complete upper cross member and strut braces to the rear so they clear the headlight surround trim. Lift up or rather pivot the complete upper cross member and strut braces with the front edge resting on the plastic trim to allow access the three clips that hold the nearside bonnet release cable. Unclip the cable. The two rubber bushes you see on the underside form a support to the top of the radiator. Set it aside, its surprisingly light for its size as its all aluminium. Remove the T30 screw that holds the charge air duct to the fan. And its bobbin, as it will no doubt fall out later! Unclip the fan’s electrical connector from the offside of the fan housing and pull up and out the socket. Prise up the central clip on top of the fan housing. And prise forward the two on each side of the fan housing (picture of offside) Grip the fan in the centre and pull up, carefully, making sure it doesn’t snag the bonnet release cable. Add it to the pile of removed bits, it’s physically huge, 600W version in mine. That’s most of the access sorted, now to get on with the actual job of replacing the parts which are the tensioner seen hiding behind the coolant hose and the two air con lines. The idler puller is also hiding behind the air con lines support bracket. This is the picture I took so as to record the routing of the belt. Don't rely on your memory to remember how the new belt should be routed. I had to flick back to this picture when routing the new belt. A 10mm socket is needed to undo the air con lines support bracket bolt. Pull out the bolt and catch the spacer that keeps the bracket off the front of the block. Now to take the tension off the belt. There is a T60 socket in the tensioner to allow you to get some purchase on the tensioner. I had to raid my tool box for a big enough Torx bit. Rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension on the belt Have the 4.5mm drill bit ready to stick in the hole in the tensioner (hole just above the lower air con line) once it lines up with a slot in the tensioners housing at the location the drill bit is pointing too, hidden under the upper air con line. You can see why you need the fan out the way while you heave round the tensioner Tensioner locked off with drill bit. Belt is now slack. Lift the belt off the alternator pulley as it’s easy to access at the top of the belt run. then off the crank pulley then out the engine bay. E12 torx socket and short extension was needed to slacken the tensioners single bolt Carefully pull out the tensioner from the block and manoeuvre it clear of the coolant and air con lines while making sure the business end of the drill bit doesn’t contact the radiator fins. Tensioner removed, its bolt looked as clean as the day it was fitted over 8 years ago. You can see the job my drill bit is doing, at the end of the shift I mounted the tensioner in my vice to recover the drill bit as I wanted that back! Date on the tensioner ties in nicely with the cars production date. It’s the original and with a slight bit of play in the bearings of the pulley. I could feel a bit of play but there was no noise from the bearings when rotated, so it was partially worn. Using a small flat screwdriver, prise off the centre cap from the idler pulley to expose the centre T50 bolt. For reference that’s the front roll bar, mounting and bolts you can see in the bottom of the picture. That’s the next job to fettle that up, well perhaps after the grumbling front wheel bearings. T50 long bit to get access to the centre bolt on the tensioner. I had to apply pressure to the air con line brackets to give a bit more room. I stuck a foam mat down the gap to protect the radiator fins as a bit of beef is needed to undo this bolt and access is a bit awkward with the air con line bracket is fighting you. Remove idler pulley from the block. Unlike the tensioner there was no play detected in these bearings and was silent when spun so it was still serviceable for a time at least. Replace idler…. …and tighten to 60Nm. Install new tensioner in its locating slots, it will only go in one way. Note factory fitted locking pin so the tensioner is in the compressed position to allow the belt to be fitted. Torque bolt to 38Nm**. Fit new belt, I went for febi part number 45238, with 8 V grooves and it’s 1390 mm long, made in December 2020 so its 8 years at least fresher than the one I took off. Fit the air con lines bobbin and bolt once you have routed the belt around the air con compressor and the underside of the idler pulley. This traps the belt on the block. Belt correctly routed and ready for the tension to be applied. Use a T60 bit to turn the tensioner slightly to free the factory fit locking pin with a pair of pliers, gently release the tensioner on to the belt. I cleaned up the fan and upper cross brace before refitting (my automotive OCD!). Simply lower the fan back in ensuring the clips at the bottom of it slot into the bottom of the radiator. Clip the bonnet release cable back into place ensure the correct routing of the cable. Install new strut brace to strut tower stretch bolts. Refit all the other bolts securing the upper cross brace to the car. Torque the strut brace to strut tower stretch bolts to 30Nm And then tighten thru a further 90 deg. This was unsettling as you are tightening a steel bolt into an aluminium part, I just didn’t like it but that’s the spec. Torque the upper cross brace to inner wing bolts to 28Nm.. …and the T30 bolts to 11.8Nm… …and that difficult centre one to, “aye that’s about right tight”. Push home the four rivets you removed. Check parts holding tray is empty except for the two stretch bolts that are scrap. Start engine and check all is well. And unless you are me, that’s you finished. Because I was thinking about something else/I’m a diddy, I had inadvertently over tightened the tensioners bolt to 80Nm. I had first tightened the idler pulley bolt to 60Nm and as the tensioner uses the same M10 thread and same socket drive, **I had it in my head that its tightening torque was also 60Nm but no its only 38Nm. Oh bother. I then bought more new strut stretch bolts and a tensioner bolt from Cotswolds, stripped everything back out again after trying to access the tensioners bolt without removing the strut brace and fan, *hence the sore knuckles and replaced the bolt.. …tightened it to 38Nm and put everything back, again. This is where I miss a Haynes manual, you can prop it up on the engine, hold the torque spec page open with a spanner and keep yourself right, without having to rely on your memory which at my age is now beginning to fail me. Not that I’ve had a Haynes manual for my car/engine combo since E39 ownership.
  3. 2 points
    paulhunter-e28

    Hunting OEM parts Seats

    Hi ivor here is ebay link to the breaker is a 525i year unsure - guys very helpful BREAKING bmw e28 525i manual part dismantle https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133820938527?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110002%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142836%26meid%3D36caeae68eb2479b8ceac7294da39f88%26pid%3D101197%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D133877937998%26itm%3D133820938527%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2%26brand%3DBMW&_trksid=p2047675.c101197.m1850&amdata=cksum%3A13382093852736caeae68eb2479b8ceac7294da39f88|enc%3AAQAGAAACADM5c0v3mPj6PFd2FzwruBXiirf4KS7ikeMmzpqIlzIzFByITzhnNoaeMQ%2BY2mubUWT%2BNjUCdkKZPgOmaQfHeA4yiMt3bcUrg0Us3IQQYrGSFgl0UuF91MxmQbqmfdscVMXREDdgimN9zUkMh%2FysCzk8N6iIS7%2F%2BnakvUWZ0EoThP%2BLRPFUv1TMPH0SzOh7OXUYmVVn19r3jUZGs2kB1tF18kzQqsbnSB3zjKvsag2QVUYr4Nla3GyZGoeu%2F%2F0axRL0Y1K7Pmg50yJZYcByYfYQtF2rYAPbZDCiNbaXO2YDsZ88gvESilvDsTfLifiJ324z2uipuSW9EriEYC5ZoIN4vwgcksk7HUH0kAtP73GOw0YJmtUz5wSggvt3BhrY0imUhM6dSGbVYH8uCUQki49myG8M%2BdpUX7P3OZHmEUSyD3FwaFC4tbd1uQtRPFWGKArH4CPa9L1prFa%2BYmf5MOvnPKUAJzAYwqO4OedbHSun1NnP98%2F1E8vNStFHTnJya63suVa6rTPgAP9gJus1gUHFrdA35AzRNnQnlYGoz1fUFwC5DIknDxYBdm6NJzdG47C3%2BlhpTKgWJN2IXgm2M5r280CShRck1nDXSjcjldPDJlgorUwdcYmfRVIYbN23UUDpwWRtl9McWZdsYikZK7sY%2FOUcxwEx3bxwtOMO0V0bL|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675
  4. 1 point
    Splondike

    530i Touring Manual

    After a sabbatical from having a BMW as my main car, with the Landcruiser Amazon and then the E350 the count went back up to four in the house during lockdown one. I discovered a poor dejected looking E39 touring in Welling that had been languishing unloved for a period of time and another forum member pointed me in the direction of the car and thought the owner would take a sensible offer for it. So a bit of a "barn find", only out in the open........... ......not really. It was Steve's (Oxo) and as such had been well looked after and nicely brought up to spec during his ownership and was too nice to pass up When Steve first got the car around 2014 it was a nice individual Orient Blue 530i Manual which he set about bringing up to sport spec. He added sport bumpers and a sport headlining and then set about bringing up to spec and when I got it had the following: New Clutch, New Flywheel, Rear crank oil seal, New Clutch Slave cylinder, New Radiator, New expansion tank, Gearbox oil seals front and rear, New ABS unit, Underside checked, Brake lines cleaned and undersealed, New brakes / disks etc, New suspension all round, new rear air bags, New springs, New shocks, New Steering arms, New drop links, New windscreen, New black Headlining, New front and rear sport bumpers, 7 x Rotagrid wheels, New door cards, New exhaust, New vacuum hoses, Diff oil changed, Gearbox oil changed New Viscous coupling and fan. So too good to pass up really. I got her home and she looked like this: Immediately I wanted to update the interior a little, so I found a nice set of brushed aluminum trim and the later sport steering wheel to give the interior a lift. Whilst mechanically perfect and a nice looking thing, the front offside wing was a pattern item and the paint had reacted and was letting the side down a little, and on the rear was a crack where a dent had been filled so it needed those areas attending to. I found a perfect original BMW wing and sent it into the paint shop to get these areas remedied. I was not expecting the outcome but once the filler was removed the size of the dent in rear wing was revealed ! The bodyshop did a brilliant job of removing all the filler and re-shaping the panel before addressing any other issues with the doors and painting the whole side ! She came home looking stunning. Having got used to a couple of cars with decent audio systems I set about upgrading the sounds with a Kenwood head unit a Rockford Fosgate amp and 10" sub in a bespoke enclosure and some nice Focal audio speakers up front. I am quite happy with the sound now. Whilst I liked the Rotas I felt it was making it look a 520i trying to be something it was not, and with fond memories of my previous 530i Touring on 19" parallels I had a look around for some. However they seemed to be pretty hard to come by so started to look for OEM 18" ones. Whilst doing so I discovered a set of the 19s which were nice and straight but had been painted in plain silver. So I had them re-furbed with a slightly darker silver centre and here is the result: The eagle eyed will have noticed the change of plate to an ageless one which cost £46 plus the fee to swap. I also had to fit a tow bar as it has to do some towing duties. But I am quite happy with the result and will now enjoy. I did have to replace the front arms due to the famous E39 shimmy despite them being replaced fairly recently, I am not sure if the big spacers on the Rotagrids had a part to play in this but she drives perfectly now Big thanks to Steve for letting her go, Perfect Paint for the excellent work and Diamond Cut for a lovely job on the wheels. Now what to upgrade next
  5. 1 point
    There is an E28 owner in the US who is looking for a set of manual rear window regulators, link below: https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=157091 Anybody have a desire to upgrade their E28 to electric rear windows? Here is a potential opportunity to arrange a trans-Atlantic exchange / swap. You would need to exchange the rear door looms as well but they connect at the base of the B-pillar. The rear window isolating switch and rear window switches would be needed from the center console (cut outs are already visible from the underside). The center console looms on my Eta's already has the switch bases wired in place (fitted for but not with) but worth checking before proceeding. Rear door switches will also be required. Rear door cards would also need to be modified to accept the switch and a blanking plug to cover the hole where the manual crank shaft used to be. A fairly basic plug and play upgrade if you are so inclined. Stay safe and best regards, Mick
  6. 1 point
    E39mad

    My 'new to me' 2011 F01 730D

    That colour will do your OCD over polishing no good at all
  7. 1 point
    d_a_n1979

    My 'new to me' 2011 F01 730D

    Thank you It's 'Azurit Metallic' Black; it's blue in some lights, black in others... Should be fun polishing the swirls out
  8. 1 point
    Andyrt200

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Glad you enjoyed the drive, the new properly fitted windscreen seemed to make a big difference just on the A roads round here. Hopefully there wasn’t any wind noise on the motorway home for you? Do keep tagging me occasionally, I will still be on here but mostly over on the G30/G31 pages now so could miss your updates. I’ll be interested to see what you do to it. There’s always room for improvement, just look at @d_a_n1979s project page for his!
  9. 1 point
    duncan-uk

    My 'new to me' 2011 F01 730D

    Being a UK car you can drive it without fear of the impending fire ball!
  10. 1 point
    E39mad

    My 'new to me' 2011 F01 730D

    Great looking motor that Dan - congratulations. Is it Imperial Blue or Black? Whatever it is I like the contract with Oyster/black leather and comfort seats (same as my car!) and I like the wheels too.
  11. 1 point
    d_a_n1979

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    You've got a cracking Touring
  12. 1 point
    cotswoldbmwmini

    price please, thank you!

    No problem at all, sorry we couldn't be more help. Best regards Joe
  13. 1 point
    Carlton

    Battery reading 1.06v

    12.35 indicates the new battery is discharged a fair bit, fully charged you'd want to see around 12.75. Have you measured voltage with the engine running? 13.5-14v at the battery clamps is good.
  14. 1 point
    Sten

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Technically yesterday, picked up my 530i Touring and enjoyed the drive home. The car is a real credit to @Andyrt200 he went above and beyond even post sale.
  15. 1 point
    duncan-uk

    Time to move the 328i on?

    Good decision Rupert. a good friend of mine has had his 328i sport coupe 18 years now. Still moves it and it’s probably worth what he paid! totally agree on the m3 point. An m3 convertible makes no sense. They’re only fun when thrashing them and I wouldn’t feel happy doing that without a roof so like you a 328/330i seems The logical choice.
  16. 1 point
    DerekJr.

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Had the guibo, centre support bearing, and transmission mounts replaced. No more vibration when I floor it in 1st and 2nd gear. The guibo wasn't bad, but the centre support bearing was absolutely shot! Came out in two pieces.
  17. 1 point
    bmwmike

    Any quick fixes?

    pull it off and attempt to push the dent out from inside. It wont look perfect but wont cost 80 smackeroonies either.
  18. 1 point
    Huff

    Battery reading 1.06v

    That's a very healthy result: well done.
  19. 1 point
    Nice rubber. Did you BMW and XL ZP?
  20. 1 point
    GoNz0

    5 series CCC + CIC

    BMW doctor wouldn't know a dildo if it fell out his backside.
  21. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Wheel upgrade harsh ride

    17" rfts will be slightly more squidgy than 18" rfts due to the extra sidewall height. I've run mine on 17", 18" and 19" rfts. The 17" gave the softest ride but the impression it was on stilts when cornering. The 19" makes the car handle like its on rails in the bends at the trade off of being less forgiving (harsher) on poor road surfaces. As others have said, even premium tyres when worn can make the car feel quite squirmy especially on poor road surfaces. My E60 with its rfts used to tramline if the pressures were incorrect but not enough for the TPWS to trigger a fault. Worth checking the pressures and the condition of the used wheels, are they perfectly round and true? Always a risk that buying used wheels have been damaged.
  22. 1 point
    McBeemer

    Wheel upgrade harsh ride

    I find run flats 'go off' below 4mm and the pliancy of the ride disappears. Another of the (many) reasons I binned them for conventional rubber. You're also on a lower profile, but new rubber will certainly make a difference, but certainly not to the level of comfort you had on the 17's. Car looks nicer on the new rims though.
  23. 1 point
    bmwmike

    Wheel upgrade harsh ride

    Not sure tbh but mine (on 18's) gets squirmy as the tyre treads get worn out.
  24. 1 point
    iReaper1157

    Broke down. Stuck at a camp site.

    Ahhhhhhh yeah! Of course. The battery is different as well. It’s a higher amp battery. That makes sense.
  25. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Remote Key Not Found warning

    The key is in the door pocket? If so then that's too far away. Mine won't start (key not found) if I stand outside and lean in to the push button with my left leg on the brake pedal. Key is in my right trouser pocket therefore outside the car. Its a pain in the sit down bits when you want to start the car for defrosting or checking trailer lights without having to get in the car to only get immediately back out.


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