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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/07/2021 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    .... and with the MoT out of the way, today's fun was swapping out the cabin filters. Usual Mahle charcoal pair fitted.... a quick 20 minutes out in the sunshine.
  2. 2 points
    Love the red E39, one of the best colours for that 5 series range, the interior is very Marmite though, being boring, and Conservative, I would probably go for the 2nd one with a black interior.
  3. 1 point
    Medved77

    PDC Fault Diagnosis (Guide)

    After spending the best part of this year and many hundreds of pounds trying to fix my parking sensors I finally got them back on line a couple of weekends ago. I thought I'd share this experience in case anyone is going through the same. I have replaced: PDC Control Module PDC Front wiring loom PDF Rear wiring loom 4 rear sensors 4 front sensors (twice) I used Carly to read the fault codes. When understanding the codes it's important to know that the 8 parking sensors form a continuous circuit, a short circuit in 1 sensor will knock any sensors downstream of it offline. None of my sensors were making a clicking noise. Originally the error code I received was 009E3B - Converter supply. This can mean there's a short circuit due to a faulty loom or sensor or the module might just be fried. If you look at the PDC Module under the spare wheel well you'll see 3 connectors plugged into it: Top - Supply to Front Loom Middle - Power from battery to Module Bottom - Supply to Rear Loom To understand the root of 009E3B remove the top connector, re-read the codes, if you now get additional error codes with the fault text containing 'Inverter' you're issue is at the front of the car and your module is fine. Repeat for the rear, if you get fault codes containing the fault text 'Inverter' your issue is at the rear. If you don't get any codes with the fault text 'Inverter' then your module is either screwed or the sensor in position 1 of the circuit is. I'm not sure how to determine this, at least not with Carly. Turned out my module was fried. Replaced that, re-read the codes then got the inverter errors. Once you get to a position whereby you're picking up Inverter errors you can then tell which sensor is not working by referencing the following: 009E38 Inverter VR (Front Passenger Side) 009E3A Inverter VMR (Front Passenger Middle) 009E39 Inverter VML (Front Driver Middle) 009E39 Inverter VL (Front Driver Side) 009E33 Inverter HL (Rear Driver Side) 009E35 Inverter HML (Rear Driver Middle) 009E36 Inverter HMR (Rear Passenger Middle) 009E34 Inverter HR (Rear Passenger Side) The sensor in the sequence immediately after the sensor reporting the fault is the broken sensor. I was picking up fault codes for 009E38 so by changing the sensor on the Front Passenger Middle the rest of my sensors came back on line. So the fault reported is the last working sensor in the circuit. I had bought these sensors from ebay which apparently are the OEM SWF make: Front: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131856525465?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Rear: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131855629663?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The rear ones were fine however half of the front sensors arrived faulty which threw me when replacing all of the front sensors making me thing the issue was at the rear. It was only after making an attempt to understand the codes, rather than by throwing money at the issue did I realise this. I'd still recommend purchasing them for the price alone however get a few more than you actually need just in case they are faulty. Some various pictures of the bumpers off before I changed the loom that may be useful for reference. Note that Front side sensors can be accessed by removing the headlights, front middle sensors by removing the kidney grills and you'll need to take the rear bumper off to change any at the rear. Hope this'll help someone quickly diagnose why their sensors aren't working.
  4. 1 point
    V_MAX

    My 523i

    This is an 24 year old BMW e39 523i, automatic from Feb. 1997 with 286.000 km./178.000 miles on the clock with the original engine, that I bought back in 2010. The reason for me being hear, is based on my wish to keep a diary or log, of what upgrades and repairs I have and will be making in the future, on my car, if it turnes out to be of any help to you or inspiration for fellow Bimmers, then that is even better. Here are some of the things that have been repaired and changed through the years; Bought the car as an "chip tuned". Yes, there was an old fashioned chip, soldered in the ECU and when I read the bin file in 2020 I could see what "they" did to the ECU. The ONLY! thing they change was the timing, they turned it way, way up to the point where it actually would over heat and hurt the engine, what a crappie way to pretend to tune an engine, this I have fixed with an new used Siemens ms41 ECU and currently work in progress with constant overall tuning of the engine due to all the changes I have made. M50 manifold, stainless steel headers and exhaust with X pipes, M5 front bumper, wings with integrated café grills, 18” wheels and Ac-Schnitzer components. Best off all are the much smaller and sleeker Ac-Schnitzer mirrors. The car has adjustable shocks (not anymore), Inside it comes with mat silver interior trimmings (originally with wood trim), and a new thicker steering wheel ( have changed it for even newer one look at the pictures), a new Android GPS/combo, a new gear leveler, electrical rear blinds and electrical/+air, memory comfort seats. Repainted in first quarter of 2018 after having 21 year old paint and some rust coming through around the rear bumper. The car was beautiful before but now.. New set of B12 Bilstein and Eibach springs (2018) that turned out to be much harder than I expected and first turn soft around 60mph.and upward. Automatic Back up cam (2018) Brighter LED head lights.(2016 New set of refurbished ( in UK) fuel injectors and all funny ticking noise disappeared from the engine..(2016) New set of fuel injectors Bosch 280155830, 49% larger than the original ones and remapped the ECU. (2021) Put in 6 new coils, just to be on the safe side.(2018) New steering wheel with 2 stage airbag.(2018) Another new steering, SSG/SMG wheel with flaps (2021) Open functional bezel around the fog lights (cools down the alternator).(2018) 2020 rebuilt Vanos, new valve stem seals, hotter cams from M54b30 and M50N/V. July 2021, new larger fan for hotter climate and viscous coupling to dissipate some of the heat buildup due to higher HP output from the engine. September 2021 mounted 13 row oil cooler in the lower grill due to increased heat and HP at the same time I made some changes to the original fresh/cold air intake, with some surprisingly good results. Color of the car is Aspen Silver (922) some times it looks like "purple pimp" color. Best of all, no red lights and it runs like a bat out of hell from(1997 -2021) knock on wood
  5. 1 point
    Ocallen

    Back exhaust box delete.

    Jicaino, you probably sum me up. I’ve had many Alfas and Lancias that I had tuned, bigger carbs, sports exhausts, Konis and Nardi steering wheels. Then I’d get pleasure from them driving in the Cotswolds or the West Country or down to the Monaco Grand Prix. Still my intention to do that with my e39.
  6. 1 point
    stevecvo

    No compression in cylinder 6

    I think that it is unlikely to be the rings. That amount of compression loss would point me to a valve being stuck open.
  7. 1 point
    wingman

    No compression in cylinder 6

    Have you checked the valves are not stuck / sticking?
  8. 1 point
    SidMac

    Sids E39 (Jap Import) thread

    I then had to treat the old one to some cleansing, and conditioning with Autoglym leather care products. Before I conditioned this old one I coloured in the scratch with a felt pen and then treated it and buffed it up..... resulting in me further questioning my decision to buy a new one. So I have kept that old one as a spare ... in very good condition. I'm shaking the head here as I type this. No photo of that - I have admitted my excess in writing, lets leave it there.
  9. 1 point
    d_a_n1979

    Converting aftermarket PDC to OEM

    If you don't want to faff with the OEM retrofit but want much better aftermarket sensors; I'd highly recommend the Steelmate kit That's what I have installed on my touring and they work superbly and look OEM. The sounder is in the rear and is very loud (you can adjust the sound level). It doesn't have a button in the front; it just activates when the car is in reverse and then switches off when you're back out of reverse etc I looked into retrofitting the OEM PDC but stopped as the parts, loom and money to get it retrofitted were daft IMO
  10. 1 point
    duncan-uk

    E36 treated to...

    A good mate of mine has had a cosmos black 328i sport coupe for the last 16/17 yrs. it was high spec when he bought it and has not long passed 100k now. It has wanted for nothing. Was a daily but sits in his garage now and is used for pleasure on a regular basis It's a proper survivor [emoji41] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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