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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/04/2021 in all areas

  1. 5 points

    Diesel Fuel Filter Change

    Diesel Fuel Filter Change, this was the first change for the fuel filter at 32,300 miles, I noted that BMW say approx 37,700 but as it was convenient for me to do it early, this was how I completed the task warning picture heavy, tools I used 8 mm and 10 mm sockets, Milwaukee M12IR-201B 12v 1x2.0Ah Li-ion 3/8in Cordless Impact Ratchet, just socket set would do, but there is a lot of small bolts to undo, and the impact ratchet is ideal and quick, Cutters if this is the first filter change to cut of old fuel pipe clips, Screwdriver to prise of U clip, Wheel ramps, although you can use a Hydraulic Jack and Axle Stands jacking up the near side, a Container to catch the diesel when removing old filter, nitrile gloves, you should wear Safety Glasses to prevent any diesel that may splash in your eyes, finally if this is the first fuel filter change you need Jubilee Clip as the original clips are one use only, I used two stainless jubilee clips one at each end as I found it easier to put the U clip back in the new filter and fuel heater unit of the car. Caution If using a Hydraulic Jack you must use Axle Stands to secure the vehicle safely, I've seen a few youtube videos online using just a jack to change the diesel fuel filter this method could lead to a fatal accident. Once of the ground remove all the small 8mm bolts from the under body plastic tray this will expose the fuel filter which is situated just behind the N/S front wheel and the front passenger door. Remove U the Clip it can be prised out using a screwdriver, also remove the fuel pipe clips as required when pulling of the fuel pipe be aware diesel may spray out, then remove the fuel filter clamp fixing bolt. Note:- BMW Used Mahle Diesel Fuel Filter Remove rubber insulation from old filter and fit to new filter in the same place. Fit rubber washer that is supplied with new filter as shown. Refitting new diesel fuel filter, fuel pipe clips, securing U shaped clip, and secure fuel filter mounting bracket. Before refitting underbody plastic tray check for any fuel leaks with engine started, the initial starting to get fuel back to engine, I pressed the ignition on and off several times without engaging the starter, then after a few cranks the fuel system had self primed and started, you can also use ISTA to prime the fuel system but from what I've been told garages don't use it either to prime the fuel system after changing out a fuel filter. I did wash and clean both sides of the underbody plastic tray before refitting, but this is my OCD coming out. I did have to resort to getting my wife to help hold the underbody tray up whilst I secure the first couple of bolts, with the underbody tray being quite flexible and long, it was proving very difficult to get the bolt holes lined up, once you get the first couple in its ok.
  2. 2 points
    Nice job, I find it hard to believe a chap with a forum name ending E34 has no previous experience dealing with rust
  3. 1 point

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Good to hear! I had bits left from the last time I did a different car so just got the black colour its self, that came in a 250ml bottle & there is loads left. Unless your actually wanting to do a complete colour change you don’t really need that much for just repairing the scuffs.
  4. 1 point

    xHP information (myth busting)

    Quick update, Three hundred miles ish after I flashed the stage 2 xHP map I've never been so happy with this gearbox, it's totally transformed it. It's like a different gearbox & the whole car feels nicer for it. Bring on the other mods I back in love with her
  5. 1 point
    The finished result, Ruins the look of the back of the car but hey ho it was purchased primarily to tow.
  6. 1 point
    So not just today but over the week I've been slowly wiring up the new aftermarket towbar kit that I fitted last weekend. I went with this one for various reasons, our old caravan needs the twin electrics & also I needed a bolt on ball so I could fit our stabiliser. Finally cost, this kit was under £200 delivered. All soldered & heat shrink joints, finished off with cloth insulation tape. My OCD likes it like that a bit like GoNz0 but nowhere as bad Big thanks to GoNz0 for the wiring location advice All ready for next weekend now
  7. 1 point

    M5 steering box swap

    Just in case anyone needs a bit more guidance on running the wiring here's how I did it! I struggled to get hold of the white plug that runs to the GM3 but once I had it I added enough wire and put it in heatshrink, the white plug clicks into the blue box by the front suspension where the brake wear connector fits as well and from there I ran the wiring behind the wheel liner and up into the brake booster area and threaded it through the square grommet where it appears in the cabin above the brake pedal: I then threaded it along behind the instrument console and dropped it down into the glove box area (using tubing to find the route and then pulling the wiring through). You need to connect into pins 9&11 on the r/h connector (X254) of the GM3 (which must be the high version) - black/white>pin 9 & black/red>pin 11, pins are the round style PN. 61130007449 that Clavurion quoted in post #7: Take heed of Claurion's note about the speed signal wire in post 9 as I'd not read that anywhere else, however I presumed the square connector he mentioned in post #5 would be right to fit into the middle connector (X253) but it was too tight to fit into the block but luckily I have some connectors I've taken off breaker cars so found the size I needed to run between X253 and the connector rails - but I don;t know the PN for either of these: Getting access to the connector rails means you have to drop the white housing holding all the modules above the glovebox and as I mentioned in an earlier post that housing is clipped in so after you remove the 10mm plastic nut to the right it will pull down to give better access. I also had a spare spade type connector to connect to the rails so all done (sorry photo is at the wrong angle): I just need to code the car to tell it servotronic is fitted now and then I'll book it in to get the M5 box installed as that's outside my comfort zone
  8. 1 point
    If I were you, I would open little plastic cover from the top of egr valve and put some grease, motor oil on the spring mechanism, and move the mechanism a few times with your fingers and see if it moves freely and smooth, this helped me and few more people in this forum Here's a picture of egr valve without the plastic cover: